Holy ****... I've been reading these forums and this may be to big of a job for me. So my car was hissing and after reading this forum it points to my CCV, so i read some diy posts not exactly for my car but just to get an idea. So i start taking **** apart in my motor and i see the problem. There is a hole in my Oil Separator Oil Dip Stick hose about an inch below the ccv. Now i can rebuild a 350 rocket back in the day but i started looking at all the **** that was invloved and that freakin ccv is tucked right under the intake manifold, deep in there. I've been searching and searching for diy posts for my car exactly but i cany find any. Does anyone know of any diy posts here or elsewhere that would help me out? I really dont want to blow $500 at the shop on a $16.00 part. Thanks!
2003 525 Oil Separator Valve (CCV)
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Search "Fudman" on www.BimmerForums.com in the E39 DIY section.
He just did a DIY on his 530i/ M54.
Also talk to Jared at www.EACtuning.com for all the parts you need.
All the parts should cost around $150 for everything on the CCV.
Thanks!
Jason
He just did a DIY on his 530i/ M54.
Also talk to Jared at www.EACtuning.com for all the parts you need.
All the parts should cost around $150 for everything on the CCV.
Thanks!
Jason
It looks scary but it is not, in fact it is very easy.
1998 528i:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=379225
2002 530i by Fudman:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=409240
The key things are:
1. Compare realoem.com with your car for proper PNs. Gather them all.
2. Then do it slowly, taking note at the same time so you don't mix things up.
3. Underneath the Intake Manifold is a whole bunch of vacuum hoses, get a mixture of vacuum hoses (diff sizes) from local auto parts store.
Do one hose at a time to prevent mixup.
The hoses may look like spaghetti but stay calm, don't be scared!
Best is to have another car in case you run out of time.
1998 528i:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=379225
2002 530i by Fudman:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=409240
The key things are:
1. Compare realoem.com with your car for proper PNs. Gather them all.
2. Then do it slowly, taking note at the same time so you don't mix things up.
3. Underneath the Intake Manifold is a whole bunch of vacuum hoses, get a mixture of vacuum hoses (diff sizes) from local auto parts store.
Do one hose at a time to prevent mixup.
The hoses may look like spaghetti but stay calm, don't be scared!
Best is to have another car in case you run out of time.
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6,924 Posts
YES YOU CAN!
Refer to my DIY posted last week. The dipstip is the one of the last components to be replaced. That hose is probably the only one you can replace without removing the CCV. You will still need to remove the air filter box, MAF & (2) intake boots. Next, cut the old CCV hose, remove the one bolt that holds the dipstick tube and then remove the dipstick assembly. You'll also need to remove the wiring box to access the bottom of the CCV. The hose connection to the bottom of the CCV is an "insert, push until it snaps into place" connection. Do not try to remove it by squeezing the connection. Simply cut the plastic rings (a screwdriver will break them easily) and the hose will pull off. Connect this end of the new hose last. The other end simply pushes onto the dipstick tube. Reinstall the dipstick tube and work the hose into place. Connect the hose to the CCV nozzle and then reassemble the rest of the parts. This should take about two hours total. Level of difficulty is a 5 on a scale of 1-10. Replacing the CCV itself is an 8-9, given the crappy access and need to modify components!! However, if one hose has broken, the others will probably go also. You may just want to bite the bullet and replace everything.
Refer to my DIY posted last week. The dipstip is the one of the last components to be replaced. That hose is probably the only one you can replace without removing the CCV. You will still need to remove the air filter box, MAF & (2) intake boots. Next, cut the old CCV hose, remove the one bolt that holds the dipstick tube and then remove the dipstick assembly. You'll also need to remove the wiring box to access the bottom of the CCV. The hose connection to the bottom of the CCV is an "insert, push until it snaps into place" connection. Do not try to remove it by squeezing the connection. Simply cut the plastic rings (a screwdriver will break them easily) and the hose will pull off. Connect this end of the new hose last. The other end simply pushes onto the dipstick tube. Reinstall the dipstick tube and work the hose into place. Connect the hose to the CCV nozzle and then reassemble the rest of the parts. This should take about two hours total. Level of difficulty is a 5 on a scale of 1-10. Replacing the CCV itself is an 8-9, given the crappy access and need to modify components!! However, if one hose has broken, the others will probably go also. You may just want to bite the bullet and replace everything.
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Did you guys replace your whole dipstick assembly?
I just bought the new O-ring.
And, I just bought my 3rd CCV, this time it's the cold weather CCV.
I just bought the new O-ring.
And, I just bought my 3rd CCV, this time it's the cold weather CCV.
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+1, If you've removed all the stuff to get in there, you may as well replace everything.
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Just the O-ring for me. Wow, your CCV is sounding like my SAP!!!
wow 3rd ccv? im just going to replace the hose only because im broke right now, and its the cheapest. only time will tell if i should have replaced everything. anyway thanks for the diy's and all the info, it really helped me out a lot.
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LOL!
Yeps, unfortunately...
CCV's suck IMO!
Typical hissing sound when hitting the gas, and slower off the line...
I have learned what to look for when the CCV fails.
Plus, I had a pressure/vacuum check done on the system, and it came back bad.
What's going on with your secondary air pump (SAP)?
Thanks!
Jason
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I've a a lot of "history" with SAPs. Three of them failed on my previous e39. Fortunately the last one was replced under parts warranty. I guess I should be thankful that that car got totaled! LOL!
My current e39 has been SAP trouble free (altough it's only been 10 mos.) until I replaced my VANOS seals last weekend. Sure enough the "secondary air low flow" code popped up Mon AM!!!
Fortunately, I found the vacuum leak right near the check valve. The old tubing had rotted so I tore a hole into it when doing the VANOS. An easy 15 min fix. I'm keeping my fingers crossed...
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At $200 labor, that is a bargain. I spent over 8 hrs replacing mine! It will be worth every penny of aggravation you avoid!
yea after looking at it last night and seeing what was invloved im just gonna pay someone else to deal with the headache.
Absolutely yes.
The oil + combustion vapor comes from the Valve Cover Outlet, and
- Oil is supposed to be separated from vapor and drained back down the dipstick tubing.
- Vapor enters the Intake Manifold.
You may want to go over this thread by poolman in detail (pay attention to post #30):
http://wwww.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=407451
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