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Where does this bolt go??
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys!

Got a question about doing a transmission flush on my BMW, need some input!


I have a 2003 745Li with 166k miles. I am going to do a transmission flush and then replace the filter and put in new fluid. I bought a kit that includes the OEM filter/gasket, seals and OEM ZF transmission fluid.

I plan on removing the old fluid, putting in new fluid, work the new fluid thru the transmission, drain it, and then replace the filter, seals and put in the OEM fluid.


My question is, can I use transmission fluid I can buy from an auto parts store for flushing purposes? Or would I have to buy something that is compatible and meets requirements for the car, such as Redline D4? The fluid that I am going to use for flushing purposes will probably be in the transmission for 5-10 minutes tops, then will get drained and disposed. Just wondering if I can use the cheap stuff or do I need to still get the good stuff just for a transmission flush...

Any comments/input/advice would be most welcome. This is my first BMW and I want to do it right. Thanks!
 

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Use the same brand/grade (OEM ZF) for both processes; you will not be able to remove all of the "flushing" fluid and you don't want to mix different fluids in these transmissions. On additional word of advice - remove the fill plug before removing the drain plug.
 

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Where does this bolt go??
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Discussion Starter #4
Great stuff guys! Thanks for the info! I am going to purchase the filter/gasket/seals/fluid kit from these guys here.

http://www.thectsc.com/products/oil...dai-jaguar-land-rover-rolls-royce-186-61.html

I think this is the one I need, based on the info I have from the transmission.

This car has the usual bad/hard shifts and no shifts when it's warm, goes into failsafe mode. I don't think it's the transmission itself, as it works fine when it's cold. But I was thinking of getting this kit and replacing the filter and fluid. Maybe I should plug for new solenoids too? What do you all think?

Thanks in advance!
 

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The kit you're ordering is still missing some essential seals. Bridge adapter and four seal sleeves. These five pieces have a tendency to shrink and cause fluid leaks inside the transmission.

I think the solenoid replacement is a good thought. You didn't say if you had a car lift.... If your doing it on your back. You don't want to have to do it again. With 166,000 miles on the car. You're probably going to have trouble with them soon.

Two other small items overlooked, are the transmission mounts. There are about $20 apiece or less. They are relatively easy to replace. However they keep the driveline in alignment. If there off-balance they could cause damage to the driveshaft. I've already replaced mine and while they looked OK they were actually cracked and shrunk. The Guibo flex disk also causes hard shift symptoms. Replace the carrier bearing at the same time. Check www.realoem.com for the part numbers for your car.
 

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Where does this bolt go??
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Discussion Starter #6
I'll be doing this the old fashioned way, 4 jackstands and 2 jacks.... no lift.

So these two kits would likely be best then, as these would cover everything?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-745Li-2...ash=item43e436ebd8:g:w5EAAOSw5ZBWIUDB&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZF6HP26-Tra...ash=item51e05a383d:g:ajoAAOSw~OVWxKZS&vxp=mtr

Never thought about the transmission mounts.... I am tight on money, so I'd be doing all this stuff in stages. I don't mind lifting the car up multiple times to install stuff, I have plenty of time.

Most likely I'd get the 2 things mentioned above, and see how the solenoids work, if they act up, I'll drop the pan and replace them as I get the fundage. And of course, I can replace the mounts and guibo disk too.

Good stuff, thanks for the info!
 

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That's the parts. You should be good to go with those two kits. If you don't replace the transmission mounts at least inspect them. Measure to see that the thickness on both sides are roughly the same. If they look completely gone that I wouldn't put it off.
 

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Where does this bolt go??
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Discussion Starter #8
Sounds good. I'll have a look at them when I get everything in. If I have extra funds I'll probably get the mounts too with the other two kits.


Thanks for the info! :thumbup:
 

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Where does this bolt go??
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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, just ordered the filter/fluid/gasket kit and the seals, along with the transmission mounts. Hopefully this will be a good start to get me going again.

I only paid 500 bucks for the car, it was abandoned at a small European car dealership, and they were going to take it to the scrap yard!


~Cheers~
 

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Ok, just ordered the filter/fluid/gasket kit and the seals, along with the transmission mounts. Hopefully this will be a good start to get me going again.

I only paid 500 bucks for the car, it was abandoned at a small European car dealership, and they were going to take it to the scrap yard!

~Cheers~
Sounds like a good find.

Hopefully you've had the good sense, to read a bunch of the threads here. If not start reading before all your parts arrive. Specifically look for alternator bracket leak. Water pump weep hole leak. Battery registration. And everything in the do it yourself section. Once you get the car on the road you're going to love it. But maintenance and repairs might rain on your parade. :)
 

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Where does this bolt go??
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Discussion Starter #11
Welp, I think I found my problem.

Dropped the pan, dropped the valve body, and pulled out the transfer seal....



I'm thinking that this was part of the problem.... we'll find out.
 

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Where does this bolt go??
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Discussion Starter #13
Sealing sleeves looked good. Tranny fluid and filter were nasty. I got everything done and so far, it's been fine, no issues. I would like to do the trans adaptation reset procedure. Other than that I am good.
 

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Where does this bolt go??
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Discussion Starter #14
Might I add, no shavings or anything unusual in the pan, or on the magnets. Just dirty. But, it has a little over 160k miles, so that's to be expected.
 

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Nice job getting transmission working again. The bridge seal should be a mandatory replacement item if it's more than 6 years old as I've seen lots of them do the same thing.

Glad you got off cheap and the bad seal didn't do any internal damage to the clutches by driving it too long with the problems.

I started using Redline D4 & D6 Synthetic ATF instead of the overpriced ZF fluid years ago and it seems to hold up much better in the long run, is cheaper, and doesn't come out half as dirty down the road.

Can't believe you got that car so cheap! Congrats
 

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Where does this bolt go??
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Discussion Starter #16
I got really lucky with it, was abandoned at a dealership and they were going to scrap it, but they advertised it on Craigslist for basically junk price.

I have about $1150.00 total bill into the car. $500.00 for the car, $200.00 for a new battery (didn't have one when I bought it), $350.00 for the seal kit and the filter/fluid kit, and $100.00 for the oil/oil filter/spark plugs/air filter.

Going to do a final inspection tomorrow to make sure nothing is leaking, and then call it good if all is well.

Still doing some reading on the forums about other potential issues with this model, and I'll address them as necessary. This is my first Bimmer so it's one big learning curve, even though I am a competent DIY'er in several areas.

I don't plan on driving it every day, It will be a long distance cruiser... a road trip car. Can't think of too many cars nicer than a 745Li to go road trippin' with!


~Cheers~
 
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