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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey and thanks, takin a shot U can help. hot air on a hotter day, tried to add 134 wouldn't go. had a shop check it out. static pressure over 100 on both sides, comp clutch engaged, same psi, no noise, tubes/hoses hot! 1K job they say. another shop check, same thing equal pressure on both sides maybe a bit higher on low side, low side did go down a bit when ac turned on. So had evacuated and checked for black death (debris) ***** and span! They all say a new compressor, drier, etc but won't say that will be all to it! Since the expansion valve is an easy change on these wouldn't that be a first to change?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Check the electrics. possible your HVAC unit isn't working and sending the message to the compressor to turn on.
thanks for the fast reply, but this is a bare bones Z so no auto ac stuff, dash ac light is on, compressor clutch engaged, condenser fan is on, hot air blowin out of vents, no cool tubes nothin, no noise! I'm thinkin no expansion but ac shop wants to change comp etc. I am not new to ac probs but on heavy equip. This is baffling! Thanks again...
 

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Hey and thanks, takin a shot U can help. hot air on a hotter day, tried to add 134 wouldn't go. had a shop check it out. static pressure over 100 on both sides, comp clutch engaged, same psi, no noise, tubes/hoses hot! 1K job they say. another shop check, same thing equal pressure on both sides maybe a bit higher on low side, low side did go down a bit when ac turned on. So had evacuated and checked for black death (debris) ***** and span! They all say a new compressor, drier, etc but won't say that will be all to it! Since the expansion valve is an easy change on these wouldn't that be a first to change?
Without seeing the gauges on the vehicle myself, sounds like both shops are dead on to me. If the expansion valve is not functioning properly, you should still see a substantial pressure difference between the low and high side readings. I am surprised they are not recommending replacing the expansion valve also, especially if it is easy to get to. Most compressor manufacturers require proof of replacing receiver/drier and orifice/expansion valve along with a flush in order to warranty a defective compressor. I would expect them to do this in order to protect them against any future parts and/or labor claims.
 

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Without seeing the gauges on the vehicle myself, sounds like both shops are dead on to me. If the expansion valve is not functioning properly, you should still see a substantial pressure difference between the low and high side readings. I am surprised they are not recommending replacing the expansion valve also, especially if it is easy to get to. Most compressor manufacturers require proof of replacing receiver/drier and orifice/expansion valve along with a flush in order to warranty a defective compressor. I would expect them to do this in order to protect them against any future parts and/or labor claims.
i agree
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Without seeing the gauges on the vehicle myself, sounds like both shops are dead on to me. If the expansion valve is not functioning properly, you should still see a substantial pressure difference between the low and high side readings. I am surprised they are not recommending replacing the expansion valve also, especially if it is easy to get to. Most compressor manufacturers require proof of replacing receiver/drier and orifice/expansion valve along with a flush in order to warranty a defective compressor. I would expect them to do this in order to protect them against any future parts and/or labor claims.
Thanks the only thing that makes me wonder is the low side being higher than the hi side on first check! eng compartment was very heat soaked and a wide open exp valve will show that reading. Thanks for the attention.:thumbup:
 

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Wow, I literally just had this happen to me this week. And I have the same model and milleage. I was actually going to ask what to check for and in what order.
I'm not too knowledgeable of these ac matters...to confuse me even more I read a thread yesterday about someone's car going into transport mode from a battery running low in charge and it caused his ac to not work.
Well, I don't drive the car but once a week. Sometimes even less...could this be it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wow, I literally just had this happen to me this week. And I have the same model and milleage. I was actually going to ask what to check for and in what order.
I'm not too knowledgeable of these ac matters...to confuse me even more I read a thread yesterday about someone's car going into transport mode from a battery running low in charge and it caused his ac to not work.
Well, I don't drive the car but once a week. Sometimes even less...could this be it?
Hello SC Z4 U must have the auto ac system for that to happen I'm hearing! mine isn't. Did U have the pressures checked? The day of failure the low side was higher than the hi side psi reading which baffles me. comp failure can only be even or static! AC shops name their price this time of year! So I will figure this myself or wait till cooler times. Keep me posted, good thing they can go topless.:thumbup:
 

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Thanks the only thing that makes me wonder is the low side being higher than the hi side on first check! eng compartment was very heat soaked and a wide open exp valve will show that reading. Thanks for the attention.:thumbup:
I honestly don't recall ever seeing a low side reading more than a high on an auto. If it was not by much, their gauges were probably out of calibration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cold again, wound up being expansion valve stuck open. Actually didn't have to open the sys, ace, seniorish tech knew how to pop the valve with pressure and jolted it back to life! Works for me! 53* cold air in, with 93* outside air temp isn't too shabby.;)
 
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