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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello! I am in desperate need of some advice on how to deal with a Secondary Air Monitor that will not run. I need the car to pass smog for state registration but I'm having incredible difficulty in setting this monitor. It's one of two monitors that won't run (EVAP and Secondary Air) and California will not allow more than one monitor to be down to pass a smog inspection. Gotta love good'ol California and its strict smog laws.

Originally, the secondary air pump was faulty because it no longer ran so I replaced that AND the secondary air valve that the pump connects to near the valve cover. I read that failed SA valves often lead to pump failure so I did them together. The pump now runs on every cold start, I confirmed after hearing it turn on with that "lovely" whirring noise we Bimmer fans have come to love and hate. I also let the car sit for around 3-5 minutes during cold starts and pump operations on three separate occasions. Even still, I cannot get that cursed monitor to complete. The vehicle is NOT throwing any codes or warning lights whatsoever.

It runs great, actually better than it did a month ago because I dug underneath the intake manifold over a two-day period to replace the CCV valve that had failed. That alone should tell you that I'm mechanically adept, but I'm terrible at dealing with smog problems so any and all advice you can give to resolve this issue is highly appreciated. I want to get my 530i smogged and registered properly asap so I can stop driving this thing illegally (sorry but not sorry California, this 530i is my only vehicle and I need to get to work every day). Feel free to ask me any additional questions if necessary. Thanks!
 

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You need to run the driving procedure to reset the monitors. Do a search.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You need to run the driving procedure to reset the monitors. Do a search.
Already did the driving procedures three times. I'm well aware of how monitors need to be set. The only monitors that refuse to run are evap and secondary air regardless of how I start, idle and drive the car. If it was just a driving procedure that was in my way, believe me when I say that I would not be asking a forum for help. The problem I'm having is not that simple.
 

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Direction of that valve is crucial as is it being not plugged up with oil residue. I discovered a few years back that mine was clogged and not letting enough vacuum flow after testing with a vacuum gauge and then physically blowing through the valve. My vacuum at the check valve went from 8-10hg to 17-18hg after figuring out that my black and white valve was clogged and replacing it with a new one. The check valve was not opening enough to let the injected air from the SAP pump do it’s thing. I also replaced my electric valve just for good measure along with all the related hoses, check valve and such, still have the original secondary air pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Direction of that valve is crucial as is it being not plugged up with oil residue. I discovered a few years back that mine was clogged and not letting enough vacuum flow after testing with a vacuum gauge and then physically blowing through the valve. My vacuum at the check valve went from 8-10hg to 17-18hg after figuring out that my black and white valve was clogged and replacing it with a new one. The check valve was not opening enough to let the injected air from the SAP pump do it’s thing. I also replaced my electric valve just for good measure along with all the related hoses, check valve and such, still have the original secondary air pump.
My valve is brand new. I replaced it alongside the failed pump.
 
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