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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all,

Earlier today I ran the gas station, filled up my tank, and tried to start my car, nothing no instrument cluster, no relay click, nothing.

Two days ago I put in a new thermostat and have put about 100 miles on it between the installation and my car ****ting the bed at the pump.

I know this likely has absolutely no affect on the problem but I also have a valve cover gasket leak. (Just thought I would be thorough)

The car came with one key so I don't have a spare to try

Before:

  • Starts and runs great
  • No long crank times during the cold snap
  • No engine lights
  • No error lights
  • Intermittent yellow key symbol for the 1.5 years I've had the car
  • Steering wheel will move up when removing key, moves down after insertion
Current Symptoms:
  • The key fob functions perfectly to lock / unlock / open trunk
  • Instrument cluster screens do not light up when inserting or turning the key
  • No click from the starter relay
  • Can use the radio, played music through the aux cable
  • Steering wheel doesn't move when inserting or removing the key
Everything that happened:

I started my car like normal drove in some **** traffic to go pick up a new gun, 1,000ft from the gun store I stop to get gas. Pull up, shut off car. Fill up. and then my problems begin. No response from turning the key, instrument cluster doesn't like up, iDrive screen only lights up after turning on the radio via the knob, and pressing the menu button doesn't allow me to go to the main iDrive screen like normal either. Only access to the radio, didn't check the MPM, but the trunk seemed dry. First thing I thought to do was disconnect the battery and try again, I'm afraid all I've done is trigger the anti-theft as the alarm would go off every now and again while we were trying to diagnose it.

I also tried jumping the car in the front and in the back, still nothing. I'm afraid it's the key fob or the ignition switch

In my searches I have found that I may have to sync the EWS and DME modules in INPA, I have some experience from programming my aux cable in, do you guys have a tutorial you recommend?

I've also found out I'll have to program the new battery info, here's the videos I found for that:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fnMbox12CjY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ih5IxqvAck

I don't know the age of the battery, but the car had 83,000 miles on it a year and a half ago, now it's at 133,000 miles.

The car had to have sat in a barn for a while as the tires were dry rotted to hell. Hopefully it's the battery but I doubt it.


Thanks in advance!
 

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Will the starter motor prevent the car from responding to the ignition? My dash stays dark. No screens or anything.
Nope, but a dead battery will. Also check your ground connections on the engine, as well as battery terminal connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Nope, but a dead battery will. Also check your ground connections on the engine, as well as battery terminal connections.
I've tested the battery at Autozone, it passed, but the voltage (disconnected from car) was 12.35V equating to a charge between 50% and 75% according to another post I found.

Going to stick it on a charger and see what happens. I also have the yellow key symbol with the door open, but nothing when shut, I assume it's a key reminder
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Will the starter motor prevent the car from responding to the ignition? My dash stays dark. No screens or anything.
Using the laptop and cable I used to program the head unit I can't get it to communicate with INPA it only shows the battery on. Have no way of reading codes I'm afraid.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
UPDATE: it seems my IBS or transponder are bad, going to get a new key and continue with the old IBS until symptoms return. Key battery tested well, but got pissed off and beat the piss out of the gas pump for taking forever. Symptoms were the immobilizer. Cause of symptoms likely the transponder
 
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