BimmerFest BMW Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just documenting for future searchers on this code.
I have another post recently where I thought I was consuming oil excessively, but it ended up being a sensor issue. I was out and about running errands to document that problem so I can get a warranty replacement part. I was taking pics of the oil level which sometimes showed normal and other times showed critically low.
A couple of mornings ago, I was just going to start the car and let it run until the level was reported so I could take another pic.
The car wouldn't start. Got lots of lights in the console and the iDrive screen was blank.
I pulled out my OBD2 tester to read the codes to try to figure this out.
The only code that came up was U110F which is Lost Communication With Torque Request ETC. Searching the web did not come up with many results. The JustAnswer site had a bit of info but they sorta want you to chat with a tech and subscribe to their site.

Knowing that a lot of BMW issues often come back to low battery conditions, I checked battery voltage. I looked at ground strap at the engine.
I was on the verge of giving up and having the car towed to the shop, when I thought of just checking all the fuses.

Lo and behold, when I got to the glove box, I pulled the Ignition/Starter Electronics fuse (a max 30A) and it was blown.

I got a replacement and the car is back to life. I know that a blown fuse may have a cause which is not fixed, but I'll cross that bridge if I ever get to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just documenting for future searchers on this code.
I have another post recently where I thought I was consuming oil excessively, but it ended up being a sensor issue. I was out and about running errands to document that problem so I can get a warranty replacement part. I was taking pics of the oil level which sometimes showed normal and other times showed critically low.
A couple of mornings ago, I was just going to start the car and let it run until the level was reported so I could take another pic.
The car wouldn't start. Got lots of lights in the console and the iDrive screen was blank.
I pulled out my OBD2 tester to read the codes to try to figure this out.
The only code that came up was U110F which is Lost Communication With Torque Request ETC. Searching the web did not come up with many results. The JustAnswer site had a bit of info but they sorta want you to chat with a tech and subscribe to their site.

Knowing that a lot of BMW issues often come back to low battery conditions, I checked battery voltage. I looked at ground strap at the engine.
I was on the verge of giving up and having the car towed to the shop, when I thought of just checking all the fuses.

Lo and behold, when I got to the glove box, I pulled the Ignition/Starter Electronics fuse (a max 30A) and it was blown.

I got a replacement and the car is back to life. I know that a blown fuse may have a cause which is not fixed, but I'll cross that bridge if I ever get to it.
Well, the bridge came and I’m going to have to cross it. Ugh! Any suggestions for troubleshooting blowing fuses?
 

·
Registered
2006 530xi 6 MT
Joined
·
5,572 Posts
Divide and conquer.
You need the wiring diagram for all that are downstream of that fuse.
Then, disconnect connectors one by one and run the car.
When it works for longer than it did before, you found the problem or at least the next, smaller, set of things to look at.
Now, and unfortunately, the the circuit you are troubleshooting may be somewhat harder to do this with given the car may not start at all for some of the devices you are going to disconnect.
But, first thing is get the wiring diagram and see what is possible to debug.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
At the moment, the fuse has blown twice. Both times, I was parked in the garage and attempting to start the car to get the oil level reading for pictures for the supplier. (They are finally refunding me and I've ordered from another supplier.) So from the timing perspective, it seems like it is a current surge at startup. I have a ten pack of fuses coming later this week, so this will give me some spares to do some testing and analysis with. Right now, I have a spare 40 and 50 A, but don't want to play with those in case the higher current messes up any wiring or component.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,571 Posts
You'll just have to dig in and find out what's on that circuit, and if one of the things (I'm betting it is...) is the starter (the solenoid - the starter motor itself draws MUCH more current than 30 amps).
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top