...I'm looking for a diagram or a picture with labels that shows the layout of the relays and fuses inside the e-box on my car. I bought it for a song post botched engine swap and none of the relays inside the e-box came with it. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I've got the bentley repair manual but it doesn't have a good representation of whats in the box as far as I can see. My car is a 2006 E90, Auto, 330I.

Bentley has most everything you need related to Relays & Fuses, it just takes some getting used to as it may NOT be organized the way you would like (NO color diagrams ;-)

Relays: (1) E-Box, beginning at page ECL-25: 4 relays: Main Relay, VVT Relay, FI Relay, Crankcase Breather Heater Relay; (2) Junction Box (behind glovebox) @ page ECL-38: 9 relays

Fuses: ECL-27: 10 fuses numbered F01 to F010 shown in fuse chart with fuse#, Amps, protected circuit; photos @ ECL-25; majority of fuses are located on Junction Box, shown at page ECL-18.

Fuse Circuits: begin @ ELE-7 showing wire colors, power source, etc.

If you are looking for something specific NOT shown (or obvious to you) in Bentley, please let us know, and/or checkout TIS:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

For Relays specifically, see:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/components-connectors/components/k-relays/

George

 

Thank you! I had overlooked this info in the book. I was able to get everything connected except the two connectors in the picture. Where do they go? I don't have anything for them to plug into.

Thanks!

 

...I was able to get everything connected except the two connectors in the picture. Where do they go? I don't have anything for them to plug into.

I can't access your photo. You don't need to use photobucket, just edit the file to 500KB or less, and attach it here. You can just crop it in Paint if you can't otherwise edit the file size.

You can attach a jpg or png file of <500KB. Just save it to your HD, click the paperclip/attachment icon, and upload the file as an attachment to your post. You can attach multiple photos/files to the same post.

Connectors are identified in either Bentley or TIS by X12345 numbering and you can click on that connector number (in TIS) and select "location" to see a photo/diagram of the connector. Compare the shape, number of pins & wire colors to ID the connector.

George

 

Didn't realize you wouldn't be able to see it. I will check out that link tomorrow when I'm back at the shop and have the bentley book to reference. I have attached a photo of what I tried to link to earlier.

Thank you!

 

...I have attached a photo of what I tried to link to earlier.

TIS shows something that looks identical as X60001 & X60002, two 26-pin connectors to the DME. Here's a link to that section of the TIS Connectors page. You can click on each connector and get location, connector view, and related wiring diagrams with wire color, pin & connector info:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...m/components-connectors/plug-in-comb-type-solder-connectors/connectors-from-x6/

Please let us know how it works out,
George

 

That's exactly them. Thank you for your help. You're a lifesaver. I thought I was either losing my mind or missing a module.

 

The DME would be a bad module to be missing :rofl:

If those two connectors are identical (except for color) just check wire colors in the wiring diagrams (TIS) related to each connector to make sure you don't swap them. I would assume there is some slight difference to prevent inadvertent swapping, or cable length, etc., but the DME would be a BAD thing to miswire.

Are all of the engine compartment wiring looms present & correctly routed (across the engine attached to the lower microfilter housing tray, etc.)? Hope you have access to a similar model with which you can compare the details.

Are you sure the DME is the original for that vehicle? Why did someone pull everything out of the E-box related to an engine swap?

You are certainly more brave than most on this forum, for whom a simple battery change can be daunting.

Please let us know how it works out,
George

 

Bravery and stupidity are sometimes synonymous!

The best I could tell the connectors are slotted differently so they can only go in their respected slots.

I was getting worried that there was a TCU or something in there I was missing. So, the back story on this car...

The car had a blown head gasket, the owner traded it off to a Honda dealer with the blown head gasket. The Honda dealer decided to just sell it as is instead of trying to repair it. I'm not sure if it went to auction or what but a small used dealer wound up with it and decided to attempt to put an engine in to flip it. The guy they had working on it had done a few engine changes in the past for them so they thought he was competent. I'm not sure where the disconnect was on knowing when to quit but after he either quit or got fired they were left with a car with a botched engine swap. The transmission wiring harness was in pieces, I bought a used one and have since installed it. Bolts were missing from the bellhousing. The DME was out and had a hole burned in it from what looked like arcing. I sent it off to a place called Module Experts in Jacksonville, FL (I think). They of course said it was bad and I had to send them my key and the CAS. I'm hopeful that what I got back will work. It has been sitting for 2 years. The cabin air filter was gone. The radiator is only halfway in. The power steering pump isn't bolted in place. I'm getting close to the point where I can stick the battery back in to see if the car will even turn on, or catch on fire, either or.

I'm hoping that the guy just got overwhelmed and couldn't figure out what he was doing, or he got pissed at the place he was working for a sabotaged the car in revenge. If all else fails, money wise I'm in it pretty good and can part it out and get my money back. The interior is in great shape, the wheels are nice, etc.

Thanks for you help!

 

Some Assembly Required ;-)

Bravery and stupidity are sometimes synonymous!...The car had a blown head gasket, the owner traded it off to a Honda dealer with the blown head gasket. The Honda dealer decided to just sell it as is instead of trying to repair it. I'm not sure if it went to auction or what but a small used dealer wound up with it and decided to attempt to put an engine in to flip it. The guy they had working on it had done a few engine changes in the past for them so they thought he was competent...The DME was out and had a hole burned in it from what looked like arcing...I'm hoping that the guy just got overwhelmed and couldn't figure out what he was doing

Would be interesting to know the story behind the hole burned in the DME -- probably connected to the Transmission Harness somehow.:tsk: Of course NEITHER should be in play in an engine swap :rofl:

Hope you're taking a LOT of e-photos for your "scrapbook" and you save an otherwise good car from the "scrap" heap

Moral to the story: Be careful WHO you let work on your BMW !!!

Please give us updates,
George

 

Hi George,

Finally back on this thing after a few busy months at work. I was missing a couple hoses and that sort of thing so after getting those, buying a battery, filling with antifreeze & running the air purge cycle three time, and changing the oil I finally got to a point where I could give it a go and see if it would run. When it first started it ran and idled fine for 2 to 3 minutes. After that the idle became really rough, the thing almost sounded like a lopey dodge viper (v10), and eventually died. It fires right back up and immediately enters the rough idle only to die shortly after. If you give any throttle it smooths out and seems to do ok until you let off and the rough idle returns and it dies.

The other issue I'm having is I have no power going to the rear wheels in drive or reverse (ZF transmission). I'm hoping this is a fluid issue as I'm sure quite a bit was lost during the engine change due to the cooler be disconnected. I've got 6 liters of Pentosin ATF1 ordered to hopefully do a dump and fill to solve that problem.

Another smaller issue is my wipers do not work. I didn't investigate as to whether or not the motor is even connected.

So, more to follow I guess. Do you have any insight on the rough idle. I plan to get a bavarian technic diagnostic tool to read codes, reset the battery, and reset the transmission after the fluid swap.

Thanks in advance,

Justin

 

...When it first started it ran and idled fine for 2 to 3 minutes. After that the idle became really rough, the thing almost sounded like a lopey dodge viper (v10), and eventually died. It fires right back up and immediately enters the rough idle only to die shortly after. If you give any throttle it smooths out and seems to do ok until you let off and the rough idle returns and it dies...Do you have any insight on the rough idle. I plan to get a bavarian technic diagnostic tool to read codes, reset the battery, and reset the transmission after the fluid swap.

Hi Justin,

Considering where you started, you have come a long way. Perhaps DTCs will shed some light on the issue of rough idle. If you have ANY code reader that you can attach, start by checking coolant temp reading (parameter) and see if it ever changes (no gauge to check for reference ;-)

If it starts from cold and idles fine until it begins to warm (and is smooth at higher RPM -- 1500 to 2000 RPM regardless of engine temp), that sounds like a faulty CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor) signal, which is the major sensor for fuel trim (richness) at idle. In any event, if the rough idle is temperature-related, then more likely fueling than ignition. If it were fuel starvation you would expect roughness at higher RPM.

I would check the CTS connector for corrosion or looseness and do resistance test on it when engine is cold (~20C) and then after running ~ 5 - 10 minutes where coolant ought to be ~ 80C. Don't know how safe it is to run engine with very low fluid in transmission where you risk damage to pump & other parts.

I've NOT seen a temp/ohms chart for the N52 CTS. My XJ-S (V-12) CTS is 2500 ohms @ 20C and 250 ohms @ 90C. I have NOT checked the N52 to see if it is anywhere close to that -- will try tomorrow & post if grossly different.

George