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I changed the Valvetronic gasket today on a Z4 ...N52 with 22k miles ...due to an oil leak...I remove the sensor but did not pay attention to its position when I removed or reinstalled it...The motor runs very rough and attempts to calibrate through the talked about auto learn routine have not helped at all...wondering what"s not right....Any suggestions would be appreciated...Thanks
What sensor did you remove?

It could be a vacuum leak- does it run smooth when not idling, like if you press the accelerator a little?
 

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No sensors were removed...it was a simple as pulling the 2 coil packs that are next to the valvtronic actuator, remove the actuator , replace the gasket ....reinstall actuator..What I did not do was to pay any attention to the way the actuator came out or went back in...(as far as shaft position)...the car ran terrible....I performed computer re boot by disconnecting the battery for 20 min. reconnect....switch to position 1 for 1 min. then off for 2 min...restart car and still bad....since this is a 2007 Z4 with the n52 I thought the re-cal may be the same as the X3...no dash light faults yet..maybe I damaged one of the coil packs...maybe the eccentric shaft sensor at this time died ...maybe BMW needs to set the actuator up on a piece of test equipment...I'm puzzeled and stumped.....Thanks..I'll let you my progress
 

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There's no need to recalibrate the Valvetronic motor position for what you did.

Try:
- Reseat the coils on the plug.
- Reseat the connector into the coil. Make sure those connectors go all the way into their mating connectors. Look at the others for reference.
- If you press the accelerator, does the car run smooth, like it's back to normal? If so, it's probably a vacuum leak.
 

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Went through all the things that I may have done wrong ...I had no codes thrown so I removed each coil pack connector one at a time looking for a bad coil and forcing a code...all coils were good and I had codes for misfire on my reader...not the problem...I saw a video on u tube that showed the valvetronic working with the valve cover off...just the cycling with position 2 of the ignition switch...I took off my oil filler cover, which gives a pretty good view of the intake action, and had my son cycle the ignition to on but not run...I heard the actuator but saw no action in the valve train...I put the allen key in the back of the actuator and turned it both directions with little if any resistance...I never had the gears meshed...the actuator gear was just sitting on top of the eccentric cam gear...now I realize that you have to walk the gear in with the allen key...no damage to either gear or the actuator and car is back to running great...feel like a dummy, but I learned a lot about Valvetronics.
 

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Great job on figuring it out! Hope is helps someone else out there. It's easy actually not aligning it right. . Thanks for keeping us updated:thumbup:
 

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I have a question about valve cover

Last November, I attempted to change my valve cover gasket. I had a terrible oil leak with burning smell. The gasket was dry rotted and broke up in pieces. Anyway, I had a hard time getting the valve cover off. One of the corner bolts was broken and the cover cracked in the process of getting it out. The price of a new cover was $400. I didn't have the money back then ... so it had to wait. I now got the new cover and installed it. Everything seems fine, however, since it was so long since I took everything apart, I can't remember where one hose goes. It is a small/skinny rubber hose that comes off of the air intake. There is a port on the top of the valve cover that appears to be where it goes, but I am not sure. I am attaching a picture of the place that I think it goes. Can anyone tell me if there is suppose to be something attached to this place on the valve cover?
 

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I broke mine on a Sunday, so the parts places were all closed. I needed the car on Monday morning, so I did a temp repair with garden hose and electrical tape and ordered a new part. (I had a P0171 code SES before I started, for vacuum leaks, and still have it now, not surprisingly)

It's one of those connectors that requires a little practice getting off, and doing it blind at full body extension at the back of the VC is not the place to practice.

Getting the connector back on the back of the VC is easy. However, replacing that whole hose seems to require removal of the intake manifold which in turn means replacing a bunch of gaskets, which in my case probably are hard and brittle anyway and causing my P0171 code for in-leaks, so they need replacing anyway..
My garden hose repair lasted at least 2 months. I had ordered the replacement hose the next day, but only found the time this past weekend to fit it. I hadn't been getting any vac leak codes so it seemed to be doing its job.

Getting the inlet manifold off wasn't a lot of fun, I have to say, and I didn't really get it totally off, just pushed to the side enough that I could get my arm underneath to unclip the two connectors under there. And again, I couldn't get them off without breaking the plastic hose. :mad: I guess the silver lining is that they are unlikely to vibrate off by themselves.
 

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Doing this right now. Your pictures and step by step directions are the only reason why I am doing this myself. Thanks. Now let's hope I can put it all back together!


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I used a small screwdriver and stuck it in the holes at either side of the seam to deform it small enough so I could pull it out. I imagine having a pair of o-ring pliers would make it easier.
 

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I used a small screwdriver and stuck it in the holes at either side of the seam to deform it small enough so I could pull it out. I imagine having a pair of o-ring pliers would make it easier.
I just pulled them off after vc was removed. I was unsure about when they had to come off. It's all good now.



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I got some high-temp red RTV silicone. Am I using the right stuff? There doesn't look like there was anything on there originally.


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I got some high-temp red RTV silicone. Am I using the right stuff? There doesn't look like there was anything on there originally.


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After reading some more, I'm going without sealant. I'll let you know if it was a bad decision.


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Ok. Rough start after replacement. Reset computer. Started up and now I have BRAKE light and 4x4 lights on dash. Weird. And I have some light smoke from engine.


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Both lights went out after driving around. Now I got an EML light with a recurring Service Engine Soon. It runs great and the code reader keeps giving nothing substantial. I have no idea...
 

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Very Good DIY.

But after my repair, my X3 could not idle smooth anymore, it was very bad, dying after a few seconds.

So I searched in the reply... and found that my valvetronic motor was not installed properly.

Like said before, when you put back the valvetronic motor, rotate it with a allen key, the motor will be pulled in its original position with the screw, it will stay in position to allow you to put the bottom screw without the need to push on the motor.
The DIY should be updated, it's very easy to install it wrong.

Unfortunately, I still had a bad idle.... but once engine was hot it was ok...
I cleaned my Vanos Solenoid and swaped them, it was now worst... so it pointed to an electric problem.

The problem was actually the camshaft sensor on top, there was little drip of oil in the connector, the first time I disconnected it, the oil probably went at the bottom and connecting/disconnecting it multiples time have put some oil on the connector making bad connection.

I cleaned it and everything was back to normal!!!!
 

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Very good write up! Thank you for all the info & pictures. I will be changing VC gasket & Valvetronic gasket & eccentric shaft seal this week.
I need to add one small point about the Valvetronic gasket. When placing it in the cover be sure to install it with the black stripe UP. This is shown in the Pelican write up HERE
 

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Thanks for the DIY writeup mchova01! I just completed this on my recently purchased 2008 X3. I had a receipt that this had been performed before (around 50,000 miles), which makes me wonder if there's another issue than just the gasket at play here.

Anyway, I had a independent mechanic look at this before I tackled it as there was some other work I needed him to do. He told me that the Valvetronic servo motor needed to be recalibrated after removal using the BMW factory service tool. I read this post and thought I could get by with disconnecting the battery. After following the procedure above, my car ran REALLY rough after restarting, with multiple cylinders misfiring and throwing the SES light. I tried doing a reset by disconnecting the battery two more times, but things never ironed out. I was able to limp it to my indy mechanic, who charged me $90 to recalibrate the Valvetronic. Now it runs great.

On another note, this was my first time taking a valve cover off an engine. Mine had about 1/4" or so of dirty, oil, muddy crud built up all on the underside of the cover. I scraped this off and power washed it (carefully). Is this typical? I also have a valve tick, which I was hoping would go away after I cleaned things up a bit and put some high quality oil in. It didn't...
 
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