BimmerFest BMW Forum banner

61 - 80 of 234 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Pretty weird that you had that issue. i recalibrated mime by just inserting the key to the on position and waiting about 15 sec each time and repeated it 3x. Car ran fine. The oil and dirt build up could be from your oil housing gaskets leaking. Glad you fixed the issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
2008 BMW 328XI valve cover gasket

Hello Everyone

I am trying to replace my 2008 BMW 328XI's valve cover gasket and I am having issue with removing one of the TORX 30 bolts. I have successfully removed everything and been able to take out 18 TORX30 bolts, but there seems to be one more bolt that is behind some object and I can't seem to figure out what this object is and how can i remove this object. The last TORX bolt is behind this object. Please see the image below.

Any help please, would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks
Smahil
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
Just finished this job on my wife's X3. Pretty straight forward, just time consuming. At the same time I also replaced the oil filter housing gasket, cooler gasket, valvetronics gasket, eccentric plug gasket, O2 sensors and the spark plugs. At 95k miles the cover gasket was very brittle, but managed to get all of them in one piece. No issues on start up - just be sure to allow the valvetronics to reinitialize a few times before starting the engine. :thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Great DIY! No snark, just curios. What oil do you use. I noticed after I switched from BMW brand to mobile1 0w-40 I stopped having leaks in my valve cover gasket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Did this over the weekend but...

Thanks for the great DIY. This was my first time doing anything to the engine other than an oil change. I replaced the valve cover gasket and the valvetronic gasket.

Everything went relatively smooth and I think I even reinstalled the valvetronic properly by threading it into place with an alan wrench.

However, after reconnecting the battery the car will not start. Turns over great but just not starting. I read the codes on my reader and almost every cylinder reports open circuit on the injector circuit. PLEASE HELP! I'm hoping I missed reconnecting something but I've reviewed the process several times...uhhgg!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
In case anyone experiences this same issue...this happens when you forget to push the 6 plugs back into the 6 injector sockets...***55357;***56865;

Next time I may create a checklist for this procedure. My X3 is at 138k miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
I completed this job today and it was definitely helpful to have this DIY.

A couple things I would note:
Keep track of the bolts using a piece of cardboard or something -- as noted here there are a couple that are unusual.
You need an E10 socket for the VC bolts; you also should have an E6 or E8 socket for the Vanos removal -- I got by using a 12-sided 1/4" for those bolts
I removed the engine bay cross brace to get it out of the way - there are two plastic rivets that you can remove and reuse (slide the pin out carefully and then remove the rivet)
In step 11 - the metal clips that hold the connectors in place are a pain. When doing the re-install - put the clips on the connectors and then push it into place; the metal clips will open up and slot into place when you push it in.
I had a Christmas Tree full of lights on the dashboard on startup - 4x4, BRAKE, SRS, and more. They all went away once I drove a block or less.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Great write up. Thanks...

Couple of things: The E8 Torx for the valvetronic unit, the single bolt that you remove underneath, was a very tight fit. This is best removed with thin wall socket if you round one up before starting the job. I had to use a deep well standard socket that happen to fit. Don't recall the size. If your clearance is tight like mine just try metric or standard 1/4" sockets to find one that fits. Also, I could not get the PCV plastic hose off as well. Had to remove the valve cover first to gain better access to squeezing that freaking thing. That also involved using a standard deep well socket to remove the valve cover bolt that is right under the PCV plastic hose. The E10 Torx was too large to remove the bolt without risking breaking the PCV plastic hose. When cleaning the valve cover/removing the old gasket be aware that some of your valve cover bolts can fall out so don't carry the valve cover across your lawn or anywhere else where you won't hear the bolt fall out...Oh, and the eccentric sensor plug gasket. That thing is basically metal with a thin rubber coating. To remove the old one hammer a chisel or thin screwdriver under the lip of it on the top of the valve cover. It's hard to tell wher the gasket end and the valve cover starts since the gasket is metal. Mine was very hard and had to search the web to figure out what the hell to do.
 

·
Addicted Since '72 2002ti
Joined
·
38 Posts
VCG, ignition coils and plugs Replacement DIY

My 2007 X3 3.0si (68061 mi) produced a service code P0301: Cylinder 1 misfires detected, which may be caused by ignition coil failure or oil leak due to a broken valve cover gasket (VCG). BTW, Autozone provides free code reader service, purchase not required. I decided to replace all ignition coils, spark plugs and VCG which proved correct after I removed the VC thanks to the DIY instructions on this thread. I have previous DIY experience with this vehicle replacing all brake pads and discs at 51500, battery replacement and changing synthetic oil every 15K or one year.

New parts:
Bavarian Autosport Hi-Performance Ignition Coil Set $270
Bosch Platinum FR7NPP332 Spark Plug Set (6) $48
OEM VCG set Part #: 11 12 7 582 245 $23
Valvetronic Gasket Part# 572.300 $13

The previous posts noted the right tools for the job and extraneous details of the VCG disassembly/assembly process. I purchased an E10 torx and 16mm deep spark plug sockets (check Sears and Autozone). Another tool I found handy was a Lisle 3/8" magnetic flexible driver (also in ¼" size) which allowed me to tactilely install the spark plugs to ensure proper threading (some posts suggest a vacuum hose). It also made it easier to remove and initially install screws and bolts in areas where clearance for my extensions or wrench would not get a firm fit.

I am grateful for the pictorial posts with detailed disassembly instructions for the battery cables, compartment brace, cabin filter housing, radiator housing, sensors, breather tubes and valvetronic motor. While removing the VC, most of the 19 torx bolts removed easily while four required an extra tug resulting with the bolt attached to its metal collar which I discovered during the reinstall had two different larger oval sizes in the rear back corners. The larger oval collar is located in the bottom rear corner. The remaining bolt collars were the similar round-shape.
The original VCG showed no signs of sealant but I applied a little on the bottom, back and front sides on the new one.
The new plugs and ignition coils installed easily thanks to the detailed Bavarian Autosport coil set instructions. Because of the detailed disassembly instructions in the previous posts, all the sensors, tubes, racks and covers easily snapped back in place after bolting on the VC.

As instructed, I turned the ignition key to position one for a minute and turned off for two to reset the computer and valvetronic motor. The car started and purred smoothly. I was pleasantly surprised with the quiet and quick acceleration with slight pedal depression during the test drive. For some reason, the 'service engine soon' light stayed on for another two days before it turned off. It has been a month and it runs better than when purchased as pre-owned lease in 2009 with 30K. :D

Next: DIY replacement of servomotor actuator gear. (4x4 warning light)

Disassembly notes:
a) Place a towel or large rag around the engine compartment below the VC level to catch dropped bolts, tools, extensions, fasteners, etc., from the dark hole under the engine. It will save time from fishing under the car with the magnetic extension or having to remove the undercarriage cover to retrieve the dropped item. If the item is small and plastic, good luck.
b) I purchased Bosch plugs beforehand and was surprised to see the old plugs stamped with BMW NGK RS. I called my local BMW shop and the service supervisor assured me that Bosch plugs are equal quality as NGK. BMW recommends and uses both as OEM suppliers to ensure shortages will not affect manufacturing schedules.
c) The two coils adjacent to the valvetronic motor can be removed but mine were stuck. There was no wiggle-room to grip and provide the extra effort until the motor was removed.

Reinstallation notes:
a) Cleaned VC and block with brake cleaner although it was fairly clean.
b) Valvetronic gasket fits correctly one way. Ensure black stripe on gasket face is at 12 o'clock. You do not want to repeat removing the Valvetronic to correctly reinstall the gasket. Ahh, the joys of DIY repair.
c) I did not use anti-seize on the plugs but applied a little dielectric grease inside the new coils which made installation very easy.
d) 2007 and later N51/N52 engines do not need replacement VC bolts, unless the bolts are actually broken off or missing. Unlike the 2006 aluminum hardware, the later parts are steel and not one-time use.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,530 Posts
My 2007 X3 3.0si (68061 mi) produced a service code P0301: Cylinder 1 misfires detected, which may be caused by ignition coil failure or oil leak due to a broken valve cover gasket (VCG).
Thanks for the extra hints! I have all the VCG parts in stock, and just am waiting for the time (oil filter gaskets to do first, though). If you think of anything else, please post them. :thumbup:
 

·
Addicted Since '72 2002ti
Joined
·
38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Thanks for your answer. Honestly, even though the cover is plastic, it is bolted into the magnesium block so I'm not that sure. I ordered the bolts, for the price it costs, no headache.
 

·
Anti-Hack
Joined
·
4,928 Posts
Not that I'm aware of; I think the S54 engine requires it at 25k, but haven't seen nor heard of that on any M or N series engine. If you wanted to check and report back, please do so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Hmmmm I am not that experienced, I guess I let the tech do on my ZM, but still I'll try to control on my X.
I have made further internet checks and sounds like it's "automatically" adjusted on M54/N52..

Thx for your contributions as usual ;)
 

·
Chillin'
Joined
·
110 Posts
N52 uses hydraulic lash adjusters that fill with oil upon engine startup, no manual service is required.

My replacement valve cover came with a full set of bolts already inserted, though that most likely was a result of buying a complete "replacement kit" from Bav Auto. The gaskets were already in place, as well.
 

·
Kostspieliger Spaß Quandt
Joined
·
879 Posts
I'm doing this job right now on my wife's X3 N52. Reason - the membrane on the built-in CCV inside the valve cover has torn and throwing related errors. (it's a $5 piece of rubber)

Anyway - I've done this same job (VCG) several times on an M54 and once on an N52 that needed a new Valvetronic sensor but had a hard time with the fuel injector harness wire clips.

On this N52 I hate disconnecting the rail clips off the fuel injector harness - the wire ones - unlike the m54 - they seem to be on backward as you only see the two ends of the wire - anyone have a good method or a make shift tool to remove these so the little wire clip doesn't go flying off into the nether regions of the engine.



Having to change the valve cover ($400) cause the oil separator (CCV) membrane is built into the cover is also ridiculous - I can change the CCV on an e46 for $35
 
61 - 80 of 234 Posts
Top