2007 328xi Waterpump errors, need help
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Recently had my cooling fan go into overdrive every time I turned on my car. Wasn't sure why, but I knew I had to drive to work. Also noticed my climate control would push cool air, but not any hot air. In fact it pushed cool air even when it was set to heat. After a few days I got an engine temp hot warning (yellow: drive slowly to your BMW service station), then a red engine temp warning (engine hot, pull over when safe), and finally a red warning reading "engine overheating, pull over and stop immediately or engine will be damaged".
Had a mechanic friend plug in his snap-on tools diagnostic computer and it pulled up two errors:
2E82 electric water pump, switch off
2E81 Electric water pump, speed difference
He said although he's done a little work on BMW's he won't be able to help due to it being from Germany (I thought all were made in Germany but apparently some are made in the States? I know this one shipped from Germany because I wanted some additional optional upgrades and had to wait 6 months for it to be built and sent over). His shop also deals primarily with domestics and they don't have manuals for BMW's.
He suggested I have another friend who's a mechanic work on it, and he may know some people that can work on it.
Question: Are there really going to be differences in parts between american and german made BMW's? What part number is the water pump if that's the problem and I need to replace it?
Also, he said it might just be the fuse having blown. Is that possible? I have about 90k kilometers on this vehicle.
Thanks for all your help!
Had a mechanic friend plug in his snap-on tools diagnostic computer and it pulled up two errors:
2E82 electric water pump, switch off
2E81 Electric water pump, speed difference
He said although he's done a little work on BMW's he won't be able to help due to it being from Germany (I thought all were made in Germany but apparently some are made in the States? I know this one shipped from Germany because I wanted some additional optional upgrades and had to wait 6 months for it to be built and sent over). His shop also deals primarily with domestics and they don't have manuals for BMW's.
He suggested I have another friend who's a mechanic work on it, and he may know some people that can work on it.
Question: Are there really going to be differences in parts between american and german made BMW's? What part number is the water pump if that's the problem and I need to replace it?
Also, he said it might just be the fuse having blown. Is that possible? I have about 90k kilometers on this vehicle.
Thanks for all your help!
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
You may have more than one problem.
1. Water pump errors: Check the fuse but it appears your water pump is starting to fail. Once the electric wp RPM deviation (difference between requested and actual speed) exceeds a threshold DME (engine ECU) posts an error. When the deviation repeats a pre determined number of times DME actually shuts down the water pump. This is the condition you appear to have. If you cleared the errors the water pump may work again until the same conditions (RPM Deviation & # of cycles) that caused it to shut off re-occurs. It is time to replace the water pump.
2. No Hot air: Could be as simple as no flow thru core due to the failed water pump. If after you replace the water pump you still have no hot air your heater valve may be jammed. It is possible your heater core is also or alternately jammed. I see this condition when someone has added a stop leak product to the coolant. It jambs the small spiral heater core passages preventing coolant from flowing. My suggestion is to do a thorough coolant system flush when replacing the water pump. You may also want to remove, dismantle, inspect and clean the heater valve - re-assembling it using some lithium grease. It can clog from stop leak products, but also from use of tap water and a build up of calcified minerals. You can verify the heater valve operation via bench test using a 12v suppl. If it is malfunctioning - replace.
3. Your electric fan may be operating high speed to compensate for the failed water pump. You will need to repair the water pump then test the fan. The fan is driven by DME based upon input conditions such as Coolant temperature, Ambient temp, AC request status, speed etc. You can test the electric fan with the correct diagnostic tool.
Not sure I understand the issue regarding the country of assembly. Many BMW's are assembled in different countries using the same source parts. (I.e. X3's were built in South Carolina using the same engine as your Germany assembled 328xi) Why does it matter where the car was assembled? Some BMW's were assembled with distinctly different parts for US markets (mostly emissions related) and high performance M or Alpina versions but that is irrelevant to your vehicle.
Edit: When you say that you have 90km on this car did you just buy it? From where? Sounds like someone offloaded the car knowing it had issues? Let's hope it was not overheated prior? Any history on the car - repair bills etc?
1. Water pump errors: Check the fuse but it appears your water pump is starting to fail. Once the electric wp RPM deviation (difference between requested and actual speed) exceeds a threshold DME (engine ECU) posts an error. When the deviation repeats a pre determined number of times DME actually shuts down the water pump. This is the condition you appear to have. If you cleared the errors the water pump may work again until the same conditions (RPM Deviation & # of cycles) that caused it to shut off re-occurs. It is time to replace the water pump.
2. No Hot air: Could be as simple as no flow thru core due to the failed water pump. If after you replace the water pump you still have no hot air your heater valve may be jammed. It is possible your heater core is also or alternately jammed. I see this condition when someone has added a stop leak product to the coolant. It jambs the small spiral heater core passages preventing coolant from flowing. My suggestion is to do a thorough coolant system flush when replacing the water pump. You may also want to remove, dismantle, inspect and clean the heater valve - re-assembling it using some lithium grease. It can clog from stop leak products, but also from use of tap water and a build up of calcified minerals. You can verify the heater valve operation via bench test using a 12v suppl. If it is malfunctioning - replace.
3. Your electric fan may be operating high speed to compensate for the failed water pump. You will need to repair the water pump then test the fan. The fan is driven by DME based upon input conditions such as Coolant temperature, Ambient temp, AC request status, speed etc. You can test the electric fan with the correct diagnostic tool.
Not sure I understand the issue regarding the country of assembly. Many BMW's are assembled in different countries using the same source parts. (I.e. X3's were built in South Carolina using the same engine as your Germany assembled 328xi) Why does it matter where the car was assembled? Some BMW's were assembled with distinctly different parts for US markets (mostly emissions related) and high performance M or Alpina versions but that is irrelevant to your vehicle.
Edit: When you say that you have 90km on this car did you just buy it? From where? Sounds like someone offloaded the car knowing it had issues? Let's hope it was not overheated prior? Any history on the car - repair bills etc?
Thanks for the thorough response.
90k km's (90,000 km's) which I am reading is about when pumps fail for people. Hopefully that means the valve is fine too.
Never used tap water in it. Just distilled and coolant fluid (if I remember correctly, definitely it was a coolant fluid people on forums said was the right and best kind). I'll check the fuse and look at the manual today, but it's probably the pump.
Other forums have said to replace the thermometer with the pump so I'll do just that.
Cheers
90k km's (90,000 km's) which I am reading is about when pumps fail for people. Hopefully that means the valve is fine too.
Never used tap water in it. Just distilled and coolant fluid (if I remember correctly, definitely it was a coolant fluid people on forums said was the right and best kind). I'll check the fuse and look at the manual today, but it's probably the pump.
Other forums have said to replace the thermometer with the pump so I'll do just that.
Cheers
While 90KKm may not seem like much, my 07 N52 (530i) pump failed at 100KKm (60Kmiles). Identical symptoms to yours.
My other 07 N52 (a 328Xit) pump showed symptoms around 105K miles.
The Pierburg pump failure mileage seems to be sooner on some early N52's, and better on later -- yours is an early N52. But failure is random, though usually after 50K miles.
The electronic pump (AFAIK) was first used by BMW on the N52 (and N51, I suppose) after exclusively using mechanical ones.
Bottom line is (1) it's not at all unusual; (2) it can't be fixed and must be replaced asap before it strands you and (3) DIY is about US$350-400, and US indy is US$ 800-1000.
If it fails on the road DO NOT drive the car -- not even a couple of KM. Flatbed it to repair location.
On a RWD, it's a fiddly but straightforward fix. On the AWD it's much more if a pain in the ass, since it feels like they built the frame around it. But it's doable, with patience. Most replace the thermostat at the same time, since they both have to come out. Kits available at FCPEuro and others.
My other 07 N52 (a 328Xit) pump showed symptoms around 105K miles.
The Pierburg pump failure mileage seems to be sooner on some early N52's, and better on later -- yours is an early N52. But failure is random, though usually after 50K miles.
The electronic pump (AFAIK) was first used by BMW on the N52 (and N51, I suppose) after exclusively using mechanical ones.
Bottom line is (1) it's not at all unusual; (2) it can't be fixed and must be replaced asap before it strands you and (3) DIY is about US$350-400, and US indy is US$ 800-1000.
If it fails on the road DO NOT drive the car -- not even a couple of KM. Flatbed it to repair location.
On a RWD, it's a fiddly but straightforward fix. On the AWD it's much more if a pain in the ass, since it feels like they built the frame around it. But it's doable, with patience. Most replace the thermostat at the same time, since they both have to come out. Kits available at FCPEuro and others.
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