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I've had the car about a year, did not know much about bmw so in the past 6 months ive been watching DYI videos to fix my car. Start with limp mode after a few months I got the "car in the lift" icon afterwards the car wouldn't start right away, took a couple of tries before it turns over.
I checked the codes I changed both camshaft position sensor for the limp mode issue, and changed the crankshaft position sensor believing it would fix the turnover issue. However after driving a few miles its acting the same. Limp mode comes on, afterward few mins I got the "car in lift" icon. Parked the car and now it won't turn over after pressing start, gave up.
has anyone encounter this before that can help me solving this issue, would appreciate the help. thank you
 

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02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 98K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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Charge the battery
 

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3/2007 328xi E91
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I've had the car about a year, did not know much about bmw...Start with limp mode after a few months I got the "car in the lift" icon afterwards the car wouldn't start right away, took a couple of tries before it turns over.

I checked the codes I changed both camshaft position sensor for the limp mode issue, and changed the crankshaft position sensor believing it would fix the turnover issue. However after driving a few miles its acting the same. Limp mode comes on, afterward few mins I got the "car in lift" icon. Parked the car and now it won't turn over after pressing start...
The GOAL is to learn enough about how your car, its diagnostic codes, and simple diagnostic tools like a multimeter and a scan tool (and perhaps INPA/ISTA if you REALLY want to become a pro) work. Then you can properly diagnose a problem that you have never experienced before. :)

QUESTIONS:
1) When the car goes into "limp mode" what warnings & icons (list ALL, such as SES, car on Lift, and any others) are you getting on the instrument cluster, AND what performance issues do you experience?
2) When you "checked the codes" which codes did you read and how -- e.g. did you check CC-ID codes on the instrument cluster using the B/C buttons on the turn signal stalk, use a generic code reader connected to the OBD II socket to get P-codes, or use BMW-specific scan tool or software such as INPA? We can't really help unless you tell us WHAT the code numbers were that you read, and WHAT you read them with.
3) When you say the "car wouldn't start right away, took a couple of tries before it turns over" do you mean you would press the START button with foot on brake/clutch and the starter did NOT crank the engine at all, or the starter cranked the engine but the engine did NOT fire?
4) NOW, when "it won't turn over after pressing start" I presume the starter is NOT cranking the engine at all. Is there any click or repeated clicking from the starter solenoid when START is pressed, or NO sound at all (listen over the left fender/wing with hood up while someone else presses START).
5) Get a cheap multimeter ($6 @ Harbor Freight Tools -- Download Manual from the HFT page for the meter and make sure you know how to simply test voltage):
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63604.html
Test for voltage at the Jumpstart Terminal under the hood (NOT at the battery in rear). WHAT is your voltage reading?
6) What codes do you have NOW?

If your battery is less than 12V charge, you may NOT be able to connect to modules via the OBD II socket. In that event, you need to charge your battery. If you have no charger, you can get one for as little as $30 to $33 from HFT or Amazon:
https://www.harborfreight.com/26-amp-612v-manual-charger-60322.html

https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SE-82-6-Dual-Rate-Battery-Charger/dp/B0009IBJBM/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1528172494&sr=8-19&keywords=battery+charger+automotive

Amazon also offers a $9 multimeter. Bottom line, you need BOTH a multimeter and battery charger to maintain your BMW. Even if your battery and alternator are healthy, there are times you need to charge, for instance while bleeding the coolant system, running extended diagnostic sessions with a scan tool, and times like NOW. A multimeter is essential to diagnose ANY electrical issue, and with today's cars, MOST issues have some electrical component involved, or its wiring, that needs testing so you don't waste money throwing parts at it.

Don't give up -- your problem is likely fairly simple if you diagnose it properly. Start with (A) reporting your battery voltage, and charging if less than 12V. (B) Also let us know what sound, if any, comes from the starter solenoid when START is pressed. (C) Clarify what happened weeks/months ago when the car "took a couple of tries before it turns over."

If you have progressively had MORE frequent instances of NO starter response to pressing of the START button, it is possible that your starter is going/gone bad, BUT it could be something as easy & cheap as the brake switch (if automatic) or the clutch switch (if manual), or their associated wiring/connectors.

Don't fear the worst (the unknown) but be as objective as you can when it is your own car that is not behaving right, and you CAN properly diagnose the issue(s), with a little help at the start. ;)

George
 

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Discussion Starter #4
QUESTIONS:
1) When the car goes into "limp mode" what warnings & icons (list ALL, such as SES, car on Lift, and any others) are you getting on the instrument cluster, AND what performance issues do you experience?
Please see attachment of the dash, 1/2 engine, car on lift.
2) When you "checked the codes" which codes did you read and how -- e.g. did you check CC-ID codes on the instrument cluster using the B/C buttons on the turn signal stalk, use a generic code reader connected to the OBD II socket to get P-codes, or use BMW-specific scan tool or software such as INPA? We can't really help unless you tell us WHAT the code numbers were that you read, and WHAT you read them with. used a OBD 2 from autozode,

[*]PO340- Camshaft postion sensor circuit malfunction
[*]P0016-Crankshaft position-Camshaft position correlation-Bank 1 sensor A
[*]P0010-Intake Camshaft position Actuator circuit/open Bank 1
[*]P0335-Crankshaft snesor A circuit
[*]P0119A/P1727/P129B

3) When you say the "car wouldn't start right away, took a couple of tries before it turns over" do you mean you would press the START button with foot on brake/clutch and the starter did NOT crank the engine at all, or the starter cranked the engine but the engine did NOT fire? I pressed on the break to start the car when I pressed on the start it jsut crank not wont turn over. I can hear it cranking (not clicking i know that would be the starter)
4) NOW, when "it won't turn over after pressing start" I presume the starter is NOT cranking the engine at all. Is there any click or repeated clicking from the starter solenoid when START is pressed, or NO sound at all (listen over the left fender/wing with hood up while someone else presses START). No clicking just hear the car trying to crank over.
5) Get a cheap multimeter ($6 @ Harbor Freight Tools -- Download Manual from the HFT page for the meter and make sure you know how to simply test voltage): Will do!
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...ter-63604.html
Test for voltage at the Jumpstart Terminal under the hood (NOT at the battery in rear). WHAT is your voltage reading?
6) What codes do you have NOW? please is question 2

today i tried to start which it did start but after one mile the same dash code came on from the picture and turn off after it wont start or crank over. after 2hr or so it will start again but will do exactly the same its being doing.

just want to Thank You for taking the time to help me on this issue, I really really appricate it.
 

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