BimmerFest BMW Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've googled and youtubed and read lots of posts, I think I have an idea of what's going on.
I got this e61 a few months ago and at the time, the remote was working intermittently.
After a lot of reading, I checked all the usual suspects. The antennae box under the spoiler was well sealed, no water or corrosion.
Then I pulled all the wires in the 2 harnesses on the drivers side hatchback door hinge.

The harness that went down to the main door had a number of broken wires. I fixed them and then the rear window latch started working, the rear hatch door was able to unlatch again, it's like everything was magically fixed.

The harness that went up to the spoiler (still on the drivers side hinge) has only 2 wires: a thick black wire and a thick brown wire. There was a third hose which I assume was the squirter for the rear window, that's not leaking.
The brown wire was broken, I fixed that.
From what I've been reading, that is the wire that drives the remote key fob antennae function.
But unlike all the other fixed wires, this didn't fix the problem.

I have not checked the passenger side hinge wires yet. All the lights on the hatch door work so I'm thinking those might be okay.

I plugged in my little foxconn scanner and it doesn't have much to say, all the keys were enabled, and it says when you want to add a new key, it just magically works. A few youtube videos said the same thing. By turning the car on and off a few times the key gets programmed to the car.

No such luck for me.

So the only thing I can think is that I got bad information and some wires on the passenger side are what is wired to the antennae or something else is broken and I have no idea what.
It's possible the rechargeable battery in both key fobs (I have two, tried both) are bad? but it used to work (as I said intermittently which is what led me to the broken wires) only a few months ago so I'm thinking it's something else.

Also it's probably worth noting that I brought the car to the dealer about a month ago where they did the trunk water leak fix and replaced half the back of the car to fix all the fried electronics modules. So maybe there's something related to the fuse box that needs to be poked? any particular fuses I should look for?
Maybe a relay somewhere?

Thanks for any help you can provide.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,434 Posts
On the driver's side, the large brown wire is the power for the rear window defogger. The black cable is the RF amplifier feed to the radio in the dash and the tube is the glass squirter supply.

On the passenger side there are many wires contained in the two hinge channels. In board are for the glass functions and out board are for the hatch wiring. On the inboard channel, there is the +12V for the rear window defog, radio amplifier power, logic as well as the remote control logic signals, etc.

Pretty much can guarantee that you have multiple broken wires, skinned wires, etc, in both wire channels, which cause all these problems.

In addition, the radio module in the spoiler can get water inside since the lid is pretty crappy at sealing. If the water is salty from road salt, your module will be pooched as well.

Happy repairing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
perfect

thanks for the help. I just couldn't find any definitive information on which wires did what.
I'll go work on the passenger side now.
I really appreciate the timely info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
Oh man, that's a horrible thing to read. I just got all my sunroof and chassis drain lines unclogged, but thankfully didn't have any fried modules in the spare tire well, though the styrofoam tray was floating.
I also have the dreaded dead wiper and glass hatch release problems, which are both right side wire loom issues.

In the meantime, check out this blog post:
http://tcbf62.blogspot.com/2016/01/bmw-535xi-touring-e61-tailgate-wiring.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
"I just got all my sunroof and chassis drain lines unclogged,"

that should have been done under warrantee. It's not a recall, but if it's an e61 there was a class action lawsuit that bmw lost and they agreed to fix the problem for anybody who called in a claim.
Go to the dealer and ask them about it.
one guy told me the statute of limitations ended this past november so maybe the deal is over, but worth asking about.

The list of stuff they had to fix on my car didn't fit on one tightly packed page.
they replaced the rear suspension module, the intelligent battery sensor, I think they replaced the rear fuse box, they redid all the wiring to all of the modules, replaced all the relays, can't remember what else.
Easily thousands and thousands of dollars retail cost. Even if they pay their cost, you gotta figure it took time away from a tech who could otherwise be booking retail rates.
this must have cost them a bundle.

But the wires in the hinges weren't covered. Not part of the lawsuit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
"I just got all my sunroof and chassis drain lines unclogged,"

that should have been done under warrantee. It's not a recall, but if it's an e61 there was a class action lawsuit that bmw lost and they agreed to fix the problem for anybody who called in a claim.
Go to the dealer and ask them about it.
one guy told me the statute of limitations ended this past november so maybe the deal is over, but worth asking about.

The list of stuff they had to fix on my car didn't fit on one tightly packed page.
they replaced the rear suspension module, the intelligent battery sensor, I think they replaced the rear fuse box, they redid all the wiring to all of the modules, replaced all the relays, can't remember what else.
Easily thousands and thousands of dollars retail cost. Even if they pay their cost, you gotta figure it took time away from a tech who could otherwise be booking retail rates.
this must have cost them a bundle.

But the wires in the hinges weren't covered. Not part of the lawsuit.
That's not to unclog drain lines, merely to move electronics imperiled by water ingress due to the clogged drain lines from what I read about it.
And I also believe that offer ended, not that it matters to my specific situation. My car has 100k and is 10yrs old. I figure anything else that goes wrong will be covered by me personally or by eventual lawsuits.
What I'd like to see is a recall on the wiring harnesses out back. :bawling:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
" My car has 100k and is 10yrs old."

so is mine, it's a 2007, and they just spent more money on it than it is worth.
I should have offered them to just buy the car from me and save themselves a bunch of money.
Oh well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
537 Posts
I just read through this (and many other) threads looking for the actual location of the rear drains. I looked online. I checked out YouTube. But no joy... Only after (unnecessarily) removing lots of left rear fender components did I realize that the drain itself is just a floppy rubber hose with that funky four-leaf clover "valve" stuck in the end of it. You won't ever see it (left side drain, in my case) without removing the muffler and heat shield. WAY more work than I needed.

Here's how you fix it without spending hours fiddling around (this assumes that the clog is at the exit end of the long rubber hose, which - given the design that's really optimized to cause a clog at the end - I'm pretty sure it will be.

1) Reach up around your muffler. Feel around in the area that is near the bottom, front corner of your tail light assembly (on the inside of the fender, obviously). You should find the floppy hose, with an obvious bulging "knob" stuck on the end.
2) Pull on the "knob". If it goes like mine, you'll end up with JUST the rubber part of the "valve", which is most likely caked with grunge. That's great, but you haven't fixed it yet...
3) Reach up once more and feel for the "top hat" that's stuck inside the floppy rubber drain hose. Grab the lip, and pull it out. Yep, it's full of all kinds of nasty stuff that precludes anything flowing through it.
4) Squish the entire available length of the hose to loosen up anything inside.
5) Pour water into the OUTER drain channel on your (open) sunroof (the part that gets dirty). You should see water flowing out behind your rear tire at a good rate. Make sure you don't have any running down inside the rear pillar (pull the access door - it'll be obvious if it's leaking).
6) Knock all the grunge out of the "top hat" and reassemble the valve by reinserting the "top hat" into the rubber "valve".
7) Reach back around the muffler heat shield and stick the re-assembled valve into the floppy rubber drain tube (kind of a neat trick, but it seemed to go in kinda/sorta easy. And even if it were to fall out, I suspect it wouldn't matter a bit.
8) Re-test your work by pouring more water into the sunroof "dirty channel". If it pours out behind the rear wheel, you're done.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top