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Hi there, I have a 335i 07 coupe and the car has lots of codes that don***8217;t go away and cranks but no start. I***8217;ll post a picture under my post with all the codes. I have been trouble shoooting it through forums etc but nothing works. If anyone knows something or had similar issues please let me know thank you
 

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... 335i 07 coupe [NEED build month/year as wiring circuits and DME Relay location changed effective 3/1/2007 in middle of 2007 model run] and the car has lots of codes that don't go away and cranks but no start...
Welcome to the Forum!

First Engine/DME code you show (2ACB) explains why starter cranks but engine does NOT fire (not even a sputter or attempt to fire). The DME Main Relay (K6300) is NOT being activated and therefore there is NO power supplied to the primary DME circuits to trigger the spark and injector pulses. So you have NEITHER spark, NOR Injector pulse during Starter cranking. The summary says there are 9 DME Fault Codes, but only 3 are shown. It MIGHT be helpful to identify the other 6, even though the DME Relay code is the first thing to address.

Please provide your build month/year and we can provide specific tests you or anyone having basic electrical system knowledge can do to identify the source of the problem. Generally, you can confirm that the DME Relay is NOT being Activated (is NOT powering the DME main circuits) by testing for voltage at certain fuse sockets with Ignition ON. Then, there are certain tests you can do to identify the wiring issue, or test function of the relay itself. Here are the DME Main Relay (K6300) circuits for LATE (>3/1/2007 build) & early (built BEFORE 3/1/2007) N54 engine 335i:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...nal-fault/internal-control-unit-fault/x1zko9v
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...nal-fault/internal-control-unit-fault/bpRMI2V

TIS wiring diagrams may be confusing to you if you have NOT spent time deciphering such things, but we can explain the correct diagram for YOUR vehicle & suggest specific tests you can do. Please let us know:
1) IF you have, or have access to, a multimeter, and the make/model if you need help doing simple Voltage tests;
2) The Make/Model of any Scan Tool you have available, or if you have INPA or ISTA diagnostic software (a definite PLUS ;-)

George
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi George thanks for
Your reply I***8217;m In the Process of getting a multimeter. The year for the car is 07/06
Let me know what you think I suppose to do first
 

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... I'm In the Process of getting a multimeter. The year for the car is 07/06 [built June, 2007 I presume?]...
NOT to insult your intelligence, but you should do some "Practice" voltage tests with whatever Multimeter you can get to use. Easiest/Quickest way to do that is to test for voltage at the Jumpstart terminals under the hood, as shown in the attached photo. The Green arrow points to the "B+" or 12V+ battery-powered terminal under the Red, plastic cap, and the Yellow arrow points to the hex-shaped ground pin or chassis ground. Put Red meter probe on 12V+ terminal (Green arrow), and Black meter probe on chassis ground pin. If you have correct meter function selected, you should read 12.0 to 12.7V on the meter screen, depending upon level of battery charge. Reverse meter probes by putting Black probe on 12V+ terminal and Red probe on chassis ground pin, and screen value should NOW have "-" in front of it, indicated opposite polarity, but SAME voltage. You CAN'T "short" anything with the meter set to "DC Volts" position, so don't be afraid to test its use. You CAN short things or create a "Lightshow" if you touch BOTH 12V+ & Ground with the same probe, so be careful to contact ONLY the 12V+ socket or pin with that meter probe (preferably Red probe ;-)

Please confirm car is "LATE" 2007 model built AFTER 3/1/2007. I don't know if "07/06" means July of 2006, or June of 2007, but I ASSume the latter. :) If so, the following wiring diagram applies:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...nal-fault/internal-control-unit-fault/x1zko9v

That wiring diagram shows the DME Main Relay (K6300) powering fuse F78, so to confirm that the DME Relay is NOT being activated when you turn Ignition ON, you want to locate "F78" on the JB (Junction Box) Fuse Panel. Attached are TWO screenprints from Bentley Manual which show fusebox layout, primary function of each fuse installed (there are blank sockets), and its "Amp"/Amperage Rating. The LATE 2007 panel has the fuse order by number "Jumbled" due to different layout of panel as compared to Early 2007 model, and the fuse numbers were changed effective 9/2007 for the 2008 models and later to have them arranged in logical Left-to-Right, Top-to-Bottom order.

Pull fuse F78 out of its socket, and CAREFULLY test for 12V+ at EACH of the sockets for that fuse with Ignition ON. If the K6300 DME Relay is NOT being activated, there will be NO power or voltage at EITHER of the two F78 spade sockets. Be careful to contact ONLY the empty F78 sockets with the Red Meter Probe, with Black meter probe contacting good chassis Ground/ metal.

The DME Relay AFTER 3/1/2007 is soldered into the JB circuit board, and is NOT a removable or plug-in relay. Here is the TIS "Installation Location" for that relay. It is ABOVE the large, Black relay on the upper right of the JB Fuse Panel. That large relay is the "Terminal 30G Relay" or Accessory Relay, and if such things as your Windows & A/C Blower are working with Ignition ON (Press START button WITHOUT foot on Brake or Clutch Pedal), then 30G relay is OK.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335i-cou/IROpqxeg

The NEXT step (assuming NO voltage at F78 socket) will be to apply a ground to the correct point in the circuit, to see if the K6300 DME Relay "CLICKS" or contacts close when ground is applied. So do steps described above & check back.

George
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My car is July 2006 sorry for the confusion and will go shortly and start the process
Thanks again being so helpful
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It***8217;s power going to dme relay but no power going out to the orange cable as you can see in the pics And then the 4 fuses not getting power at all that main orange cable should have power
 

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My car is July 2006 sorry for the confusion and will go shortly and start the process...
OK, FORGET the wiring diagram & fuse description in my prior post. you have an EARLY 2007 model with things to test in the E-box under the hood. So the FIRST step is to remove the Microfilter Housings and open the E-box per this TIS Procedure (ONLY take the E-box cover OFF, do NOT remove the DME from the box at this time).
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...-electronic-shift-units-control-units/HHCUEOE

Here is the CORRECT TIS wiring diagram for 2006/Early 2007 model:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...nal-fault/internal-control-unit-fault/bpRMI2V

NOTE that the DME Relay, K6300, powers fuses F01 through F04 which are located on the Fuse Carrier in the E-box, NOT on the JB fuse panel, per this Installation Location:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335i-cou/S0kgUlt

So you want to test for 12V+ at ANY of those fuse sockets (F01 through F04) with ignition ON. If NO voltage, then K6300 is NOT being activated. Keep in mind that the Code Defintion of "2ACB" said "Intermittent", so if you DO get voltage or Relay CLICK, try to start engine. Here is the location of K6300 in the E-box on your 2006/early 2007 model:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335i-cou/H2vsi4L7

You can remove that relay and bench-test it to see if the contacts close when you apply 12V+ (or even 9V test battery) across the electromagnet pins (Pins #6 & #4 of Connector X6300), OR you can just apply a ground to Pin #4, White/Gray wire, of Connector X6300 with Connector attached, and see if relay clicks. With Relay Activated (ground jumper applied to Pin #4, engine should start, or at least try to fire, as long as fuses F01 through F04 are NOW powered (12V+). You MAY find it easier to apply a ground jumper at Pin #4 of Connector X60551, which is the intermediate connector between the DME & Relay:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335i-cou/S7vd3wc

The TIS circuit diagrams are interactive, and clicking on any BLUE component ID# allows you to select additional information, such as Installation Location of the component, or Connector View with Pin/Socket numbers.

There have been reports by others of Connector or Pin issues at Pin #13 of Connector X60005 which is the DME Pin that provides a ground to the DME Main Relay. Be on the lookout for any sign of water damage or corrosion at that connector/PIN.

Please let us know what you find,
George
 

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So if you have NO power from the DME Relay Orange wire, Pin #2 of Connector X6300, with ignition ON, then you need to test the relay itself by applying a ground jumper to Pin #4, and see if the relay CLICKS/Activates, and you now have voltage at fuses F01 - F04. If you DO get voltage that way, try to start engine with ground jumper in place. Don't leave that jumper in place, but this is a test to see what the issue is. If relay CANNOT be made to Activate/Click by ground jumper, then replace relay, or apply jumper from Pin #6 to Pin #2 of Relay Connector X6300 to test for engine start.

Please let us know what you find,
George
 

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Need to go do some "Actual Work" ;) Sounds like you understand what you're doing, but take the time to follow the wiring to the Relay (basic 4-pin relay). Working in the E-box, a mistake can get expen$ive. You can either apply a ground jumper to the relay to test the relay, or apply a power jumper between Pins #6 (Battery Power IN to relay) and Pin #2 (Power Output from relay to Fuses) for test purposes.

Good luck,
George
 

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Discussion Starter #11
For some reason the grey white cable that suppose to be the ground when I turn key on has power so that means that relay bad ?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Played around a bit.....got power to PIN number 2 which gave power to the 4 fuses tried to start it cranks but no start
I heard the pump going none stop and water pump.....and after all that now can***8217;t even read the obd2. Lost again. Waiting on a new dme relay in case but I think is the actual dme it***8217;s self
Let me know what you think
 

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For some reason the grey white cable that suppose to be the ground when I turn key on has power so that means that relay bad ?
So track back to the dme took it off and 2 pins which is the grey and white cable are corroded I posting pics as well
...got power to PIN number 2 which gave power to the 4 fuses tried to start it cranks but no start; I heard the pump going none stop and water pump.....and after all that now can't even read the obd2. Lost again. Waiting on a new dme relay in case but I think is the actual dme it's self...
Let's work backwards in your list of findings or new issues. I'm concerned as to WHY you cannot "read the obd2" -- do you mean that your Scan Tool will no longer connect to the DME Module? If so, and you were able to do that before and read DME Fault Codes, then perhaps Connector X60003, which supplies power to the DME for limited purposes BEFORE the DME Relay is activated, is NOT properly connected. Here is what that 6-pin Connector X60003 looks like:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335i-cou/CSqRsUt4

Make sure ALL connectors are reattached to the DME. When you are using a "Power Jumper" to essentially "wire around" the DME Relay, you just attach a jumper or bridge between the Red wire at X6300/ Pin #6 (Battery Power) and the Orange wire at X6300/ Pin #2 (DME Relay Power OUT to fuses). You can simulate a "Good" Relay K6300 by such a jumper or bridge. You can also test other systems or circuits for issues IF the engine will NOT fire with the Relay Bridge in place.

The other test you can do is "Bench Test" the K6300 Relay. I presume it is a standard "4-pin" relay? Does it have the numbers 30, 85, 86, 87 by the four pins on the bottom of the relay? If so, pins 85 & 86 provide power to the electromagnet, pin #30 is battery power to the relay, and pin #87 is power OUT (to fuses) when the electromagnet closes the contacts, creating continuity between Pin #30 & Pin #87. If you can electrically test that relay to see if it CLICKS when you apply 12V and ground to the electromagnet coil, and also electrically test for continuity between pins #30 & #87 with power applied to electromagnet pins, then relay is OK.

Keep in mind that a COMMON failure is corrosion or failure of Pin #13, Connector X60005, at the DME which supplies the ground to the electromagnet coil of K6300. There is ALWAYS 12V+ to the other side of that coil, so all that is done to Activate the relay and power the DME, is apply that ground.

You said the White/Gray wire that is supposed to provide ground to the relay coil "has power". Please describe exactly HOW you tested for that, and WHAT the actual reading was. Set the multimeter to DC Volts, 20 volts or less, place the Red probe on the White/Gray wire, and the Black probe on a good chassis ground, and record the actual Voltage reading on the meter with Ignition ON. It IS possible (but NOT likely) that the relay electromagnet has shorted in such a way that battery voltage is present on the other side of the coil (X6300/ Pin #4).
Sometimes it is best to repeat ALL tests the next day when you are fresh, and you have reviewed the wiring diagrams, Connector Pins, & wire colors again. Bench test the Relay if you have NOT already done so, as we need to know if it works. Test contacts electrically in addition to listening for a CLICK.

Good luck,
George
 

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Played around a bit.....got power to PIN number 2 which gave power to the 4 fuses tried to start it cranks but no start
I heard the pump going none stop and water pump.....and after all that now can't even read the obd2. Lost again. Waiting on a new dme relay in case but I think is the actual dme it's self
Let me know what you think

Where are you located?
 

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So after all I cleaned the dme connectors and pins from corrosion, got a new dme relay and car started and works pretty ok now I have a few codes I have to figure out will post underneath a pic of them
George..... thanks a lot you helped me tons and finally the car starts
Let me know what you think about the new codes I***8217;m getting.....and I***8217;m from Canada cape Breton middle of nowheres lol
 

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... I have a few codes I have to figure out will post underneath a pic of them...
Glad to hear you got the Relay Activation sorted. The png file you posted is TOO SMALL (12kb) to read & when you zoom in, not enough pixels to be clear. Please just post the codes by text and we can look up the definitions. Of course UNLESS you can post a LARGER photo (at least 100 to 200KB.

George
 

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... I'll upload the link of the report let me know if that works for you [Yes, the pdf you link IS legible -- my list of your Fault Codes & comments on each is below]
https://cdn.fbsbx.com/v/t59.2708-21...31bba666c9f59ca09d352f4b2319&oe=5EB1837E&dl=1
I would suggest simply CLEARING ALL FAULT CODES using your scan tool, and seeing what returns after engine is run and/or car is driven for several minutes. Reasons for that suggestion are provided below. Here is a List and ANALYSIS of your Fault Codes. ALL Fault Code Definitions are from BMW Fault Code Lookup:
http://www.bmwfault.codes/

3 "Pending Codes":
P1553: SAME as 2A99 below
P1554: SAME as 2A98 below
P0030: SAME as 2C9C below

5 Engine Codes:
2A99: N54 | P1553 | 2A99 | DME: Crankshaft - exhaust camshaft, reference | MSD80
2A98: N54 | P1554 | 2A98 | DME: Crankshaft - inlet camshaft, reference | MSD80
2C9C: N54 | P0030 | 2C9C | DME: Oxygen sensor heater before catalytic converter: Activation | MSD80
3100: 3100 | DME: Boost-pressure control, deactivation | msd80

ALL FOUR of those codes are "History"; only Code listed as "Active" is Radiator Blind, 2F0D

Active Code:
2F0D: Radiator Blind Activation (GLF) [M1997 in TIS "Cooling System" schematic linked below

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...rive-units/m1997-radiator-blind-drive/h5KARPw
A faulty radiator blind will NOT affect how the engine runs, at least for the first minute or two after cold start, but depending upon whether the blind is open or closed, it MAY affect engine temp & cooling system operation. Of Course the first thing to check is the fuse, F04 in the E-box. Then check connector pins & sockets, and wiring integrity, at X16663 at the Drive unit.

Since NONE of the other codes are "Active" or "Currently Present"(?), I would just CLEAR ALL CODES and see what returns. I don't know what your Scan Tool classifies as a "Pending" code. The way INPA works is that it shows you ALL Fault Code Numbers saved in Module Memory, and indicates whether EACH code is "Currently Present" or NOT. "Fehler momentan nicht vorhanden" means Fault NOT currently present. Nicht = NOT.

I would also learn whether your Scan Tool provides "Freeze Frame Data" or a "snapshot" of system conditions at the moment the fault code was saved. INPA provides such data as mileage/km so you know how many miles prior the fault was recorded, and engine or system parameters/ data such as Temp, RPM, Load, System Voltage, etc.

The Two Camshaft Position Sensor vs. Crankshaft Position Sensor Codes, IF they should return, would suggest an issue with the Camshaft Position Sensor Connectors or wiring, but hopefully they were a product of the DME Relay malfunction and lack of power to those sensors, and will NOT return after you CLEAR all codes.

Please let us know what you find,
George
 
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