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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I have a 2008 328xi that I just bought. It***8217;s was non running when I purchased it. The car has had a dead battery for several months leading up to my purchase. Checked the fuel rail for pressure, found no pressure in the fuel rail. Checked for spark, no spark. Tested fuel pump, works well when manually supplied with 12v power. I purchased an autel MP808 scanner and found a few codes, 2ACB - digital motor electronics (DME) DME relay activation as well as 2ACC - digital electronic motor DME relay; shift delay. I have read in here that it is possible the K6300 relay was bad, which I***8217;m unsure if it is a built in relay in the power distribution box (fuse panel under the dash) or if that is the black relay labeled kl 30g. In the upper right hand corner. One other thing I did to no avail was reset the CAS unit via the autel scanner. The scanner does read the key but wasn***8217;t sure if this may be a CAS issue? Any help would be much appreciated!
 

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...2008 328xi that I just bought. [Welcome to the Forum! Attached is a pdf with links to "E9x References" and TIS Online Service Manual is your best help for Interactive Wiring Diagrams with "Installation Location" diagrams, and Connector Locations & "Views." Examples of TIS pages relevant to your issue are identified & linked below, but I would suggest spending several hours learning what is in TIS, & how to quickly find it. If any questions, let us know.] It's was non running when I purchased it. The car has had a dead battery for several months leading up to my purchase...I purchased an autel MP808 scanner and found a few codes, 2ACB - digital motor electronics (DME) DME relay activation as well as 2ACC - digital electronic motor DME relay; shift delay. I have read in here that it is possible the K6300 relay was bad, which I'm unsure if it is a built in relay in the power distribution box (fuse panel under the dash) or if that is the black relay labeled kl 30g. In the upper right hand corner. One other thing I did to no avail was reset the CAS unit via the autel scanner. The scanner does read the key but wasn't sure if this may be a CAS issue? Any help would be much appreciated!
Update, power the fuse 4, no power the fuse 37, 38, 39
I presume you either replaced or recharged the battery, and NOW have a battery that supplies > 12.0 Volts to crank starter and power the DME? If there is NO power at fuses 37, 38 & 39, the DME Main Relay is NOT providing power to those three fuses, and F39 provides power to BOTH the Coils AND Injectors, so you are neither getting spark, NOR injector pulse -- hence crank/ NO Start. F37, which is also powered via the DME Main Relay, powers the DME, so you're probably NOT getting DME triggering (via ground pulse) of either the injectors or coils EITHER.

The DME Main Relay, K6300 on the TIS schematics, is soldered to the circuit board in the JB. What you see as the large, black, removable relay on the upper right is the "Terminal 30g" relay, also denoted "IO1068" on TIS schematics. Here is the TIS Installation Location of the 30g Relay:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328xi-lim/components-connectors/components/i-components-from-outside-manufacturers/i01068-relay-terminal-30g/1VnYuo3ZrW

You should NOTE that the DME "turns itself on": The DME gets unswitched battery power via F4 (note the "30" above the F4 fuse symbol, indicating "Terminal 30" or unswitched battery power) to Pin #1 of Connector X60003. That is just Low-Amp (10A) control circuit power, and the DME then completes a GROUND to the K6300 (DME Relay) coil which is ALWAYS connected to battery power (Terminal 30) on the other side of the coil. If the relay is functioning, the contacts close, and fuses F37, F38 & F39 are powered --- VROOM. ;) Here is the "DME Supply" TIS circuit:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328xi-lim/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-quality-control-valve-msv/voltage-supply/control-unit-power-supply/internal-fault/internal-control-unit-fault/vSeDDOT

Here are the TIS circuit diagrams for fuses F39 & F38 on your 2008 model, and the Junction Box circuit diagram, showing function of K6300 to Power KL.87 or Terminal 87, and each of the fuses in question:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328xi-lim/components-connectors/components/f-fuses/f39-fuse/vbXvlMR
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328xi-lim/components-connectors/components/f-fuses/f38-fuse/vFbq6N3
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328xi-lim/wiring-functional-info/functional-wiring-diagrams/09-vehicle-electrical-system/front-fuse-relay-module/1VnXpW4emV

Here is the BMW Fault Code Lookup Definition of "2ACB", AND the Fault Information Link with Service Notes:
2ACB | DME: DME master relay, activation | msv80 | Engine electronics | View
http://www.bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?doc=MgAwADAAMAAwADQAOQAxADgANgA2ADQANQAxADAANAA=

The other code "2ACC" suggests to me that at some point, perhaps PRIOR to complete failure, there was some "Delay" in operation of the Main Relay, which again could be due to either electrical activation circuit issues, OR to mechanical issues in the DME Relay itself. It might be at least academically enlightening to know what the "Freeze Frame Data" mileage or km information shows on each code and ALL instances of the code being saved.

So based upon information to date, it appears that either there is a wiring fault related to the DME Relay, or it is bad, mechanically or electrically. NOT too many reports of the latter, and IF the car has sat outside for some time, there may be damaged or corroded connectors in the electrical system related to the "Activation" or GROUND supply to the Relay electromagnet coil. If you have NOT already done so, I would begin by opening the E-box and inspecting inside for any current WATER or signs of previous water damage.

THEN, with the E-box open, I would inspect and clean (electronic contact cleaner) the pins and sockets related to the Ground supply to the DME Relay coil, as listed below, from DME in E-box to JB/Fuse Panel at Glovebox. Hopefully you will find an issue in the E-box and NOT have to pull the JBE & JB, but that is NOT as big a job as it first appears -- Dealers do that every day to perform the Blower Motor Harness Recall. BTW, I would check with prior owner/seller and nearest BMW Dealer to see if your car has had that (or other Breather Heater Recall) performed. That might provide some clues as to cause of your issue:

1) I would actually start in the "middle" at X6011, since that is easiest to access. Here are the "Installation Location" and also "Connector View" of Connector X6011:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328xi-lim/SL92ADs
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328xi-lim/CTV7EyqD
2) I would disconnect the White/Gray wire from the DME, at Pin #5 of Connector X6011 (to isolate & prevent damage to the DME), and then apply ground to the Red/Gray wire that goes to the coil relay, and see if you get any relay "Click" when intermittently applying ground to the coil (if wiring at Pin#1 of Connector X11010 on the firewall side of the JB is OK).

I would just go that far & check back before going further. I have NOT had any reason to have to even open my E-box, so I do NOT have actual experience with that connector X6011. It HAS been reported to give different issues on certain models (do you have MT or AT?).

George
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow George, thank you so much for the he detailed information. I decided to remove and replace the JB as I noticed some corrosion to the top row of fuses. Once removed I inspected all fuses as well as the circuit board which appears there is a bit of surface corrosion on. I removed k6300 using a blow torch (I***8217;ll have a new JB tomorrow so I wasn***8217;t worried about damaging it) and tested it for a click, it did. It also showed 0 resistance on both sides of the switching sides which seems odd to me and may be a possible failure?

I***8217;ll take a look at the connections at x6011 this afternoon. Any idea on pin 13? I read that is the ground switching pin, but isn***8217;t found on the x6011 diagram supplied.
 

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...I'll take a look at the connections at x6011 this afternoon. Any idea on pin 13? I read that is the ground switching pin, but isn't found on the x6011 diagram supplied.
NOT sure what pin 13 you are referring to. As described in previous post, here is the TIS circuit diagram for the DME Main Relay (K6300). Pin #13 is at Connector X60005 at the DME, and YES, that is the pin at the DME that provides the Ground to activate the DME Main Relay. However, if you look at the schematic below, that White/Gray wire from Pin #13 at X60005 at the DME goes to Pin #5 of X6011.

I was simply suggesting the easiest place to DISCONNECT the DME wire (to prevent damage to the DME) and test the DME Relay by applying the ground to the Red/Gray wire that runs to the Relay coil. Rather than shop around for "opinions" or "magic fixes", I would suggest just follow this TIS schematic and ask questions if you see something that doesn't make sense, or want someone's interpretation of a part of the schematic.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328xi-lim/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-quality-control-valve-msv/voltage-supply/control-unit-power-supply/internal-fault/internal-control-unit-fault/vSeDDOT

George
 

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Discussion Starter #7
These are all great resources. No shopping around here. Clearly with your help, I have been able to trace down the most likely causes. I did notice that at x6011 when removed there was a sight bit of corrosion on the connect at the grey and red wire. According to the diagram you so kindly provided, that wire is part of the k6300 circuit! Fingers crossed it may be the whole reason the car wouldn***8217;t start. I***8217;ll let you know how the new fuse box install goes and if I can get it to fire tomorrow. I truly appreciate your expertise!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I replaced the JB and that did not work. I inspected and cleaned x6011 as well as all connectors in the DME box, still nothing. Tested power to f37-37-39, still no power to them when the key is in the ignition. Grounded pin 5 when the key was out of the car and no relay click was heard. I hear the fuel pump kick on when the key goes in the ignition but still no fuel pressure at the rail. Could it be the dreaded DME failure? only thing i havent done is changed out the IO1068 relay (black relay in the fuse box). I did test it and it worked fine and showed no resistance when powered on. I also tested the fuseable links in the battery area and all were good. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The read and grey wire did deliver a relay click on x6011. A bit more back story, the previous owner stated the car died, he jumped it, it ran for about 30 seconds and then died, and it has not fired up since.
 

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Well as it turns out pin 13 on the DME is completely corroded. Sent it off to a computer repair shop to see if they can replace the pin. Fingers crossed!
 

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Any update on this? Where did you send it for repair? I also am experiencing a 2acb/2acc on my 335xi which has the same JB layout. I'm seriously thinking of replacing the JB and hopefully that fixes it.

I did have some water damage due to a water pump failure that got coolant in the ECM box. No blown fuse or corrosion so it's down to the the JB or DME.
 

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Any update on this? Where did you send it for repair? I also am experiencing a 2acb/2acc on my 335xi which has the same JB layout. I'm seriously thinking of replacing the JB and hopefully that fixes it...
Welcome to the Forum!

BEFORE throwing parts at it (OP replaced the JB without any benefit) I would suggest doing some proper DIAGNOSIS & TESTING. Although we never heard back from OP, my guess is that he had an issue with ACTIVATION of the DME Relay, which powers the DME and on your N54, also separately powers all of the sensors necessary to operation of the engine, such as the Crankshaft Sensor & Camshaft Sensors. Pin #13 of Connector X60005 at the DME is the pin that supplies a ground to the DME Relay Electromagnet to make the Relay contacts close and send power to components served by the Relay. He found that pin to be corroded (AFTER replacement JB did NOT fix the problem ;-) and we never heard back. The issue MAY be fixed simply by CLEANING pins & sockets in a connector, or getting moisture out of your E-box using heat gun.

To properly diagnose YOUR issue, we need to know:

1) Year and engine (N54 or N55) of your 335xi;
2) Brand/Model of Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software you have available;
3) Whether you have a Multimeter;
4) Engine Performance symtoms, such as crank but NO Start, Starts then shuts down, etc;
5) Tests you have conducted to date, and results
6) Whether any codes OTHER than 2ACB & 2ACC;

In case your scan tool does NOT provide Fault Code Definitions, here are the Definitions (N54 Engine with MSD80 DME) for those 2 codes per BMW Fault Code Lookup, and the Fault Information Sheets for EACH:
2ACB | DME: DME master relay, activation | msd80
2ACC | DME: DME master relay, shift delay | msd80
http://www.bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?doc=MgAwADAAMAAwADQAOQAxADYAMwA2ADAAMwAyADAANAA=
http://www.bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?doc=MgAwADAAMAAwADQAOQAxADYAMwA2ADAAMwA0ADAANAA=

For each, the Service Notes state: "Check wiring; Repair if defective"
That means to do MORE than look in the E-box, and say "Yeah, there's a bunch of wires in there" and then start replacing parts. :bigpimp:

You have to START with the correct wiring diagrams (VARY by model), available FREE online using TIS, and then you have to READ the diagrams: follow how the current flow WORKS, in this case, WHAT powers and Activates the DME Relay (K6300). The most frequently-occurring fault I have seen reported on the Forums is lack of ACTIVATION of the Relay Electromagnet by a ground being applied to Pin #13 of Connector X60005 at the DME as shown in this TIS Schematic for N54 in 2008 and later models:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-quality-control-valve-msv/voltage-supply/control-unit-power-supply/internal-fault/internal-control-unit-fault/vMifIQL

There are some tricks to using all of the features available in TIS schematics, so let us know answers to questions above & we can help you see how to LOCATE a component, or VIEW a connector, with pin number designations.

George
 

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Welcome to the Forum!

BEFORE throwing parts at it (OP replaced the JB without any benefit) I would suggest doing some proper DIAGNOSIS & TESTING. Although we never heard back from OP, my guess is that he had an issue with ACTIVATION of the DME Relay, which powers the DME and on your N54, also separately powers all of the sensors necessary to operation of the engine, such as the Crankshaft Sensor & Camshaft Sensors. Pin #13 of Connector X60005 at the DME is the pin that supplies a ground to the DME Relay Electromagnet to make the Relay contacts close and send power to components served by the Relay. He found that pin to be corroded (AFTER replacement JB did NOT fix the problem ;-) and we never heard back. The issue MAY be fixed simply by CLEANING pins & sockets in a connector, or getting moisture out of your E-box using heat gun.

To properly diagnose YOUR issue, we need to know:

1) Year and engine (N54 or N55) of your 335xi;
2) Brand/Model of Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software you have available;
3) Whether you have a Multimeter;
4) Engine Performance symtoms, such as crank but NO Start, Starts then shuts down, etc;
5) Tests you have conducted to date, and results
6) Whether any codes OTHER than 2ACB & 2ACC;

In case your scan tool does NOT provide Fault Code Definitions, here are the Definitions (N54 Engine with MSD80 DME) for those 2 codes per BMW Fault Code Lookup, and the Fault Information Sheets for EACH:
2ACB | DME: DME master relay, activation | msd80
2ACC | DME: DME master relay, shift delay | msd80
http://www.bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?doc=MgAwADAAMAAwADQAOQAxADYAMwA2ADAAMwAyADAANAA=
http://www.bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?doc=MgAwADAAMAAwADQAOQAxADYAMwA2ADAAMwA0ADAANAA=

For each, the Service Notes state: "Check wiring; Repair if defective"
That means to do MORE than look in the E-box, and say "Yeah, there's a bunch of wires in there" and then start replacing parts. :bigpimp:

You have to START with the correct wiring diagrams (VARY by model), available FREE online using TIS, and then you have to READ the diagrams: follow how the current flow WORKS, in this case, WHAT powers and Activates the DME Relay (K6300). The most frequently-occurring fault I have seen reported on the Forums is lack of ACTIVATION of the Relay Electromagnet by a ground being applied to Pin #13 of Connector X60005 at the DME as shown in this TIS Schematic for N54 in 2008 and later models:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-quality-control-valve-msv/voltage-supply/control-unit-power-supply/internal-fault/internal-control-unit-fault/vMifIQL

There are some tricks to using all of the features available in TIS schematics, so let us know answers to questions above & we can help you see how to LOCATE a component, or VIEW a connector, with pin number designations.

George
Thank you for all the information and by far this thread has been the most resourceful of any I've found in any forums over the past week.

To answer your questions:
1) 2008 335xi- N54
2)I have access to MHD and BimmerGeeks ProTool
3) I currently do not have access to a multi-meter, have one at work but our state is under a Shelter-In-Place order so I can't really leave the house.
4) The engine will CRANK but NO START,
5)
-Water pump was replaced and verified functioning
-wipe and dry out the coolant from the ECM box
-removed the JB4
-check for corroded and wet connector pins, no corrosion but I noticed a little moisture inside the left DME connector, dry out the pins and wipe the female connector, put all connectors back to stock with JB4 harness completely removed
-flashed DME back to stock BIN
-Checked all fuses in fuse box 3x times (no blown fuses),
-Replace the I01068 black relay after being told that was the DME relay.

6) Whether any codes OTHER than 2ACB & 2ACC; Those are primarily the only two codes I get consistently, I ran several code check throughout each start attempt, here are the last two:

2ACB
2ACC
2E85 - BSD message, electric coolant pump: missing

2ACB
2ACC
2CFB DME, Throttle-valve adaptation value (this may be caused by me pressing the throttle during start up)
2D09 DME Throttle (this may be caused by me pressing the throttle during start up)
2E85 - BSD message, electric coolant pump: missing

A little back story on how this all happened. My water pump failed and overheat the car. Coolant oversprayed the engine bay and got into my ECM box (did not know this until after the fact). Initially, the car ran normally after the water pump and battery was replaced. The next day, the car would only crank but not start. I start experiencing random electrical issues, first the JB4 would no longer connect, the board was replaced and again the car started up immediately. Then as I had the car off and updating some settings in the the app, it lost connection and random clicks of various electrical systems were turning on/off. Video here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F7bwyFzR89U&feature=youtu.be

I was then told to remove the JB4 completely and flash my custom tune back to stock via MHD. In the mist of flashing, the MHD app lost connection and no longer connecting to either MHD or Protools. Another round of search brought me to a coder who did a DME recovery for me. Now I am again able to connect via MHD/ProTools. This is where I am now. So please feel free to have me try anything, I'm not super skilled with electrical diagnostics but am very mechanically inclined so bear with me.

Hopefully, with you guys support, i can get this issue resolve once and for all. Much appreciate the info above.
 

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2008 335xi Cranks but does NOT fire; DME Relay NOT Activated

...
1) 2008 335xi- N54
2)I have access to MHD and BimmerGeeks ProTool
3) I currently do not have access to a multi-meter...
4) The engine will CRANK but NO START
...no corrosion but I noticed a little moisture inside the left DME connector, dry out the pins...
To restate the observations from the prior post:
1) It appears that the DME Relay is NOT being activated
2) If DME is NOT activated, the dashboard lights as normal when turning ignition ON, Radio, Blower, Wipers, Windows, Seats, and Starter all work as normal, BUT
3) The Engine will NOT fire, as the Sensors (Crankshaft & Camshaft) that time the DME pulse of Spark & Injectors are NOT powered, and the DME itself cannot function. Also, the LP Fuel Pump does NOT run. It still has Power Supply to the DME sufficient to have a Scan Tool connect & read Memory.

So the two recurring codes indicate, consistent with the symptoms you describe, that your DME Relay (K6300 on the TIS schematic linked in the prior thread, which happens to be the correct Schematic for your 2008 335xi with N54) is NOT being activated to Supply Power to general DME functions, and to power the Sensors mentioned above.

Proper Diagnostics would suggest that you use a Multimeter (OR a test light would also work) to CONFIRM that the DME Relay is NOT being activated. Here are wiring diagrams, Installation Locations, and Connector Views to help you determine WHAT is NOT getting Power Supply (12V+ on multimeter or test light).

Here is the wiring diagram that shows how the DME is always powered by the 10 Amp fuse F4. I would begin by using a multimeter or test light to confirm power at ONE of the two F4 sockets with the fuse removed. That is Battery power (NOTE the "30" above the fuse symbol indicating "Terminal 30" or Battery [unswitched] power).
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-quality-control-valve-msv/voltage-supply/control-unit-power-supply/vMifIQL

F4 ONLY supplies control system power, and NOT power for other DME functions. NOTE that the DME "turns itself on" in that the Red/Gray wire from Pin #13 of Connector X60005 of the DME provides a ground signal to the K6300 DME Relay electromagnet. NOTE that Red/Gray wire passes through Pin #5 of Connector X60551 on the way from the DME to the Relay. That Connector X60551 is in the E-box as shown below, and that is the easiest location to test, particularly since you have the E-box open.

The 12V+ side of the relay electromagnet coil, and the other side of the contacts are BOTH ALWAYS powered by Battery power, or "Terminal 30", also known as Kl.30 (Klemmen is German word for Terminal), so if you apply a ground to that Red/Gray wire, the relay should "CLICK" if it still works, and the engine should fire when the Starter cranks the engine. Here is a more complicated schematic of the Junction Box, which shows ALL of the relays & fuses. What is important here for YOUR understanding is Kl.30 (Terminal 30 or Battery Power), Kl.87 (Terminal 87 powered by operation of K6300 DME Relay, and K6300 itself, and WHY its operation is important.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/wiring-functional-info/functional-wiring-diagrams/09-vehicle-electrical-system/front-fuse-relay-module/1VnXpW4emV

Even if you don't have a multimeter or test light to check for 12V+ (in reference to Chassis Ground), you can STILL do a test to determine if the K6300 DME Relay works. What you have to do is apply a ground (any wire or conductor contacting good chassis ground) to the Red/Gray wire. There are several ways you can do that. The simplest is to locate the Red/Gray wire and stick a pin in it (penetrate the insulation and contact the wire inside), and then ground the pin. If you hear the relay click (located INSIDE the JB just above the Terminal 30g relay you replaced), then you have found the CAUSE of your problem (but you STILL have to locate the reason for NO ground signal & correct it). A corroded Connector Pin at the DME, at the JB, OR at X60551 itself, are the most likely causes if the Relay clicks when ground applied.

A more elegant way to ground the Red/Gray wire is to locate that wire inside the E-box, at Pin #5 of Connector X60551. Here is the TIS Installation Location for those two connectors, each at rear of E-box:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/S7vd3wc
Since you got coolant in the E-box, that Connector, or moisture in the DME itself, are the most likely causes of your issue.

I would suggest reviewing the above so that you understand how to Activate/test the relay and then try that & let us know what you find. So you can understand WHY operation of that relay is necessary, here are circuits for Fuse 39 (Ignition coils), Fuse 37 (Camshaft Sensors), and Fuse 11 (Crankshaft Sensor), ALL of which are powered from Terminal 87, powered by the DME Relay (K6300):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-quality-control-valve-msv/ignition/uuem8HV
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/components-connectors/components/f-fuses/f54-fuse/i1ukJnB
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/components-connectors/components/f-fuses/f11-fuse/iE4uiI1

Please let us know what you find,
George
 

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To restate the observations from the prior post:
1) It appears that the DME Relay is NOT being activated
2) If DME is NOT activated, the dashboard lights as normal when turning ignition ON, Radio, Blower, Wipers, Windows, Seats, and Starter all work as normal, BUT
3) The Engine will NOT fire, as the Sensors (Crankshaft & Camshaft) that time the DME pulse of Spark & Injectors are NOT powered, and the DME itself cannot function. Also, the LP Fuel Pump does NOT run. It still has Power Supply to the DME sufficient to have a Scan Tool connect & read Memory.

So the two recurring codes indicate, consistent with the symptoms you describe, that your DME Relay (K6300 on the TIS schematic linked in the prior thread, which happens to be the correct Schematic for your 2008 335xi with N54) is NOT being activated to Supply Power to general DME functions, and to power the Sensors mentioned above.

Proper Diagnostics would suggest that you use a Multimeter (OR a test light would also work) to CONFIRM that the DME Relay is NOT being activated. Here are wiring diagrams, Installation Locations, and Connector Views to help you determine WHAT is NOT getting Power Supply (12V+ on multimeter or test light).

Here is the wiring diagram that shows how the DME is always powered by the 10 Amp fuse F4. I would begin by using a multimeter or test light to confirm power at ONE of the two F4 sockets with the fuse removed. That is Battery power (NOTE the "30" above the fuse symbol indicating "Terminal 30" or Battery [unswitched] power).
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-quality-control-valve-msv/voltage-supply/control-unit-power-supply/vMifIQL

F4 ONLY supplies control system power, and NOT power for other DME functions. NOTE that the DME "turns itself on" in that the Red/Gray wire from Pin #13 of Connector X60005 of the DME provides a ground signal to the K6300 DME Relay electromagnet. NOTE that Red/Gray wire passes through Pin #5 of Connector X60551 on the way from the DME to the Relay. That Connector X60551 is in the E-box as shown below, and that is the easiest location to test, particularly since you have the E-box open.

The 12V+ side of the relay electromagnet coil, and the other side of the contacts are BOTH ALWAYS powered by Battery power, or "Terminal 30", also known as Kl.30 (Klemmen is German word for Terminal), so if you apply a ground to that Red/Gray wire, the relay should "CLICK" if it still works, and the engine should fire when the Starter cranks the engine. Here is a more complicated schematic of the Junction Box, which shows ALL of the relays & fuses. What is important here for YOUR understanding is Kl.30 (Terminal 30 or Battery Power), Kl.87 (Terminal 87 powered by operation of K6300 DME Relay, and K6300 itself, and WHY its operation is important.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/wiring-functional-info/functional-wiring-diagrams/09-vehicle-electrical-system/front-fuse-relay-module/1VnXpW4emV

Even if you don't have a multimeter or test light to check for 12V+ (in reference to Chassis Ground), you can STILL do a test to determine if the K6300 DME Relay works. What you have to do is apply a ground (any wire or conductor contacting good chassis ground) to the Red/Gray wire. There are several ways you can do that. The simplest is to locate the Red/Gray wire and stick a pin in it (penetrate the insulation and contact the wire inside), and then ground the pin. If you hear the relay click (located INSIDE the JB just above the Terminal 30g relay you replaced), then you have found the CAUSE of your problem (but you STILL have to locate the reason for NO ground signal & correct it). A corroded Connector Pin at the DME, at the JB, OR at X60551 itself, are the most likely causes if the Relay clicks when ground applied.

A more elegant way to ground the Red/Gray wire is to locate that wire inside the E-box, at Pin #5 of Connector X60551. Here is the TIS Installation Location for those two connectors, each at rear of E-box:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/S7vd3wc
Since you got coolant in the E-box, that Connector, or moisture in the DME itself, are the most likely causes of your issue.

I would suggest reviewing the above so that you understand how to Activate/test the relay and then try that & let us know what you find. So you can understand WHY operation of that relay is necessary, here are circuits for Fuse 39 (Ignition coils), Fuse 37 (Camshaft Sensors), and Fuse 11 (Crankshaft Sensor), ALL of which are powered from Terminal 87, powered by the DME Relay (K6300):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-quality-control-valve-msv/ignition/uuem8HV
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/components-connectors/components/f-fuses/f54-fuse/i1ukJnB
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/components-connectors/components/f-fuses/f11-fuse/iE4uiI1

Please let us know what you find,
George
George, you are amazing!! Thank you for providing such detail information and process for to testing the JB and DME connectors. I just order a multi-meter which arrives Monday. I will scrounge around the garage to see if I have some wiring I can use to test the relay in the meantime. I want to take the time to review everything you provided and the schematics as well. Hopefully, I can report back some useful data after the first round of testing.
 

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...
2)I have access to MHD and BimmerGeeks ProTool
3) I currently do not have access to a multi-meter...
I'm NOT familiar with ProTool, but if it can do most of the things INPA can do, you MAY be able to quickly determine if Terminal 87 (KL.87) is active or not when ignition is ON, just by connecting to the DME (MSD80 for your N54) and reading the voltage that way.

INPA is "Factory Level" software developed by the German-speaking guys who designed & built our BMW's, so one would expect that if they found a way to display or control component data/function, ProTool COULD be designed to do the same. It's just a matter of WHAT particular functions BimmerGeeks has developed to date.

With INPA, one can see KL.87 voltage displayed on a Status screen, as shown in the first bar graph on the top left of the 1st attached jpg. OR one can turn KL.87 on/off by activating or deactivating the DME Main Relay, as shown in the 2nd attached jpg. I have translated (in red) the pertinent parts of the German "Labeling" in those two screens. INPA allows a knowledgeable user to quickly conduct MANY tests that would require one to identify and access a particular connector, and "Backprobe" a connector or otherwise use a multimeter to measure voltage, continuity, resistance, etc. You can do all this just by connecting the laptop to the OBD II Socket and seeing the data, and/or controlling the component, on your computer screen. You just have to know what data can be viewed, and what screen to use to view it, or to control a component.

Keep in mind that the DME supplies a ground signal to the DME Relay to complete the Relay's electromagnet coil circuit and close the relay contacts. The reason it is called "Terminal 87" is that Terminal or Pin #87 of a standard automotive relay is the Power Supply Terminal when the relay contacts are CLOSED, and Terminal 30 of that relay is Battery Power, to which Terminal 87 is connected when the contacts close.

I don't know WHAT Documentation, instructions, or List of Functions ProTool has, or what support BimmerGeeks provides. I would encourage you (and anyone using ProTool) to share such information. ANY decent Scan Tool, or Diagnostic Software, is capable of doing a LOT more than just reading Fault Codes. It should also have the capability to (1) Read Parameters or input values such as Sensor signals or various voltage values, AND (2) Allow Activation of motors, valves, relays, etc.

The DME can only activate the DME Relay IF connections are intact between Pin #13 of Connector X60005 and the Relay coil, AND the DME is operational. Please let us know WHAT you are able to determine ProTool can do to (1) display Terminal 87 Voltage, and/or (2) Activate the DME Relay to power Terminal 87.

George
 

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I'm NOT familiar with ProTool, but if it can do most of the things INPA can do, you MAY be able to quickly determine if Terminal 87 (KL.87) is active or not when ignition is ON, just by connecting to the DME (MSD80 for your N54) and reading the voltage that way.

INPA is "Factory Level" software developed by the German-speaking guys who designed & built our BMW's, so one would expect that if they found a way to display or control component data/function, ProTool COULD be designed to do the same. It's just a matter of WHAT particular functions BimmerGeeks has developed to date.

With INPA, one can see KL.87 voltage displayed on a Status screen, as shown in the first bar graph on the top left of the 1st attached jpg. OR one can turn KL.87 on/off by activating or deactivating the DME Main Relay, as shown in the 2nd attached jpg. I have translated (in red) the pertinent parts of the German "Labeling" in those two screens. INPA allows a knowledgeable user to quickly conduct MANY tests that would require one to identify and access a particular connector, and "Backprobe" a connector or otherwise use a multimeter to measure voltage, continuity, resistance, etc. You can do all this just by connecting the laptop to the OBD II Socket and seeing the data, and/or controlling the component, on your computer screen. You just have to know what data can be viewed, and what screen to use to view it, or to control a component.

Keep in mind that the DME supplies a ground signal to the DME Relay to complete the Relay's electromagnet coil circuit and close the relay contacts. The reason it is called "Terminal 87" is that Terminal or Pin #87 of a standard automotive relay is the Power Supply Terminal when the relay contacts are CLOSED, and Terminal 30 of that relay is Battery Power, to which Terminal 87 is connected when the contacts close.

I don't know WHAT Documentation, instructions, or List of Functions ProTool has, or what support BimmerGeeks provides. I would encourage you (and anyone using ProTool) to share such information. ANY decent Scan Tool, or Diagnostic Software, is capable of doing a LOT more than just reading Fault Codes. It should also have the capability to (1) Read Parameters or input values such as Sensor signals or various voltage values, AND (2) Allow Activation of motors, valves, relays, etc.

The DME can only activate the DME Relay IF connections are intact between Pin #13 of Connector X60005 and the Relay coil, AND the DME is operational. Please let us know WHAT you are able to determine ProTool can do to (1) display Terminal 87 Voltage, and/or (2) Activate the DME Relay to power Terminal 87.

George
I completely spaced out that I have INPA installed on my laptop. I'm not verse with INPA navigation but I was able to locate the kl.87 activation via Component Triggering > Actuator activation 1 > Clamp 87/mail relay DME. However, once I got into this section and attempt to turn ON, I get what appears to be an initialization error/ no component response error as seen below. After attempting this, my LPFP is now running constantly. Disconnected and cycled the ignition and LPFP is quiet again.

I also located the MWB1 and was also getting the same initialization error, second screenshot.

Upon additional research, with the cable that I had, I found that I had to modify the ediabas.ini file and update the port from 3000 to 6801. Once I did that, I was able to connect to the LIVE DATA portion and display the MWB1, see 3rd screenshot, it does not look like my KL.87 is getting any voltage. I also attempted to activate the relay but after trying to turn it ON, it errors out ultimately with NO RESPONSE FROM CONTROL UNIT.
 

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... I was able to connect to the LIVE DATA portion and display the MWB1, see 3rd screenshot, it does not look like my KL.87 is getting any voltage. I also attempted to activate the relay but after trying to turn it ON, it errors out ultimately with NO RESPONSE FROM CONTROL UNIT.
Good job getting the INPA data. :thumbup: I assume Ignition was ON when those screens were saved, and if so, that confirms that the DME is NOT "turning itself on" by activating the DME Main Relay (K6300) to power Terminal 87 (0.2V won't cut it ;-). That explains "Crank but NO Start/Fire", but we still don't know if the relay is bad, there is a wiring fault in the "Activation ground wire (Red/Gray wire) and its connectors, or if there is an issue with the DME.

If I were dealing with that situation, my next step would be to try to apply a ground to the Red/Gray wire inside the E-box, at Pin #5 of Connector X60551. Here is the TIS Installation Location for that connector, at rear of E-box:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xi-lim/S7vd3wc
Here is the wiring diagram showing the Red/Gray wire from Pin #13 of Connector X60005 of the DME to Pin #5 of X60551. That wire NEVER leaves the E-box. THEN there is another Red/Gray wire from Pin #5 of X60551 (same size & color wire) that goes OUT of the E-box to the chassis wiring harness that runs to the JB (Junction Box) Connector X11010. It is THAT wire going to the JB to which you want to apply a ground (at Pin #5 of connector X60551 in the E-box):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-quality-control-valve-msv/voltage-supply/control-unit-power-supply/vMifIQL

I've never had to open my E-box, so I can't provide any more tips than that, but hopefully the TIS wiring diagram and "Installation Location" are sufficient to solve the puzzle. I did test the DME Main Relay Activation function on my MSV80 DME, 328xi today. With radio off & quiet cabin, I could hear a low level "click" from the JB area when activating the relay, and the voltage value went from 0 to 12.2 when KL.87 was active. So hopefully when you apply ground to Pin #5 of X60551:
1) You will hear a click from the JB;
2) See 12+ Volts Value in KL.87 bar graph using INPA Messwertblock 1;
3) Have engine fire when Starter is cranked (OK to leave ground applied for that purpose, but disconnect it AFTER test Start & engine shutdown).
4) Be aware that there MAY be some short within the E-box given the history of coolant ingress, so be ready to remove jumper if any sparking, etc.
5) If you have NOT already done so, I would recommend thorough inspection of the DME and all components in the E-box, with use of a heat gun, heat lamp, or at least incandescent light bulb for radiant heat for 12 to 24 hours (to evaporate moisture), along with disconnection & inspection of connector pins & sockets, particularly X60005. Use Electronic Contact Cleaner to clean pins/ sockets if any corrosion is found. Water-damaged electronics can OFTEN be "resuscitated" by thorough drying and cleaning.

Please let us know what you find,
George
 

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Good job getting the INPA data. :thumbup: I assume Ignition was ON when those screens were saved, and if so, that confirms that the DME is NOT "turning itself on" by activating the DME Main Relay (K6300) to power Terminal 87 (0.2V won't cut it ;-). That explains "Crank but NO Start/Fire", but we still don't know if the relay is bad, there is a wiring fault in the "Activation ground wire (Red/Gray wire) and its connectors, or if there is an issue with the DME.

If I were dealing with that situation, my next step would be to try to apply a ground to the Red/Gray wire inside the E-box, at Pin #5 of Connector X60551. Here is the TIS Installation Location for that connector, at rear of E-box:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xi-lim/S7vd3wc
Here is the wiring diagram showing the Red/Gray wire from Pin #13 of Connector X60005 of the DME to Pin #5 of X60551. That wire NEVER leaves the E-box. THEN there is another Red/Gray wire from Pin #5 of X60551 (same size & color wire) that goes OUT of the E-box to the chassis wiring harness that runs to the JB (Junction Box) Connector X11010. It is THAT wire going to the JB to which you want to apply a ground (at Pin #5 of connector X60551 in the E-box):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-quality-control-valve-msv/voltage-supply/control-unit-power-supply/vMifIQL

I've never had to open my E-box, so I can't provide any more tips than that, but hopefully the TIS wiring diagram and "Installation Location" are sufficient to solve the puzzle. I did test the DME Main Relay Activation function on my MSV80 DME, 328xi today. With radio off & quiet cabin, I could hear a low level "click" from the JB area when activating the relay, and the voltage value went from 0 to 12.2 when KL.87 was active. So hopefully when you apply ground to Pin #5 of X60551:
1) You will hear a click from the JB;
2) See 12+ Volts Value in KL.87 bar graph using INPA Messwertblock 1;
3) Have engine fire when Starter is cranked (OK to leave ground applied for that purpose, but disconnect it AFTER test Start & engine shutdown).
4) Be aware that there MAY be some short within the E-box given the history of coolant ingress, so be ready to remove jumper if any sparking, etc.
5) If you have NOT already done so, I would recommend thorough inspection of the DME and all components in the E-box, with use of a heat gun, heat lamp, or at least incandescent light bulb for radiant heat for 12 to 24 hours (to evaporate moisture), along with disconnection & inspection of connector pins & sockets, particularly X60005. Use Electronic Contact Cleaner to clean pins/ sockets if any corrosion is found. Water-damaged electronics can OFTEN be "resuscitated" by thorough drying and cleaning.

Please let us know what you find,
George
Thanks, I will try to do a test tomorrow. :)
 

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So I have thoroughly cleaned all of the connected and E-Box. There were still some condensation in a couple of the plugs but the Electric Contact Cleaner and heat gun cleared that up. See pics. This didn't fix the issue as I am still not seeing voltage on KL.87 in INPA with the ignition ON.

I've reviewed TIS schematics vs. the physical wiring in the car and the color wiring does not match.

First
DME connector X60005, pin #13 is not RED/GREY, it is WHITE/GREY. ALSO to note, the TIS diagram of the location of this is incorrect. It's backwards, the X60005 connector is the LONG BLACK connector, not the WHITE. The TIS diagram flipped between the A6000 picture vs. the detail picture.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335xi-cou/components-connectors/plug-in-comb-type-solder-connectors/connectors-from-x6/x60005-x60005/1VnZAHHjcD

Second:
Connect X60551, pin #5 is also not RED/GREY but WHITE/GREY.

Tracing the X60551 connector, it appears as the female connector goes further across the engine and into a distribution block on by the HPFP. then possibly from there going to the firewall into the JB?

At this point, I have not attempt to ground any pins as a precaution but the cable colors do match. Do I trust it?
Also if I was to apply ground, I believe I would be applying it to the female side of the X60551 since it seems to go to the JB vs. the male side which stays in the E-box.
 

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