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... I've reviewed TIS schematics vs. the physical wiring in the car and the color wiring does not match. First: DME connector X60005, pin #13 is not RED/GREY, it is WHITE/GREY... Second: Connect X60551, pin #5 is also not RED/GREY but WHITE/GREY. [??] ... At this point, I have not attempt to ground any pins as a precaution but the cable colors do match. Do I trust it? Also if I was to apply ground, I believe I would be applying it to the female side of the X60551 since it seems to go to the JB vs. the male side which stays in the E-box.
I checked the same wiring diagram for my 3/14/2007 build 328xi (N52) and it has the ground to the DME Relay being provided by the same Pin #13 of Connector X60005 at the DME, BUT the wire that goes from Pin #13 of X60005 IS White/Gray, just as your photo #5 shows, with wire separated by small (HFT?) pick. BUT, on my 328xi N52, the color is RED/Gray on the other side of X60551. On your 335xi, is the wire to which the White/Gray wire from the DME connects at Pin #5 of X60551 Red/Gray or White/Gray (on the OTHER side of X60551)?

There is so much detail in TIS wiring diagrams that there are bound to be errors. I get as "spatially-challenged" as the next guy. If you are going to be getting a multimeter or you can scrounge up one or a test light (anything to test continuity of a wire), what I would suggest is testing the White/Gray or Red/Gray wire that runs from Pin #5 of X60551 and leaves the E-box, to see if that is the same wire (electrically-connected) as the wire (whether Red/Gray or White/Gray) that is found at Pin #1 of Connector X11010 at the top-Left of the JB fuse panel.

That is, after all, what we are trying to apply a ground to, in order to test the K6300 DME Relay. You could always just apply a ground to that pin on the top-left of the JB to test for Click & Voltage at Terminal 87, but we also need to test for ground at Pin #5 of X60551, AND for continuity between Pin #5 of X60551 & Pin #1 of X11010.

Perhaps I'm missing something, but if you have X60005 disconnected from the DME, I don't see what could be harmed by applying ground to ONLY Socket #13 of X60005. ALL we are trying to do in this limited test (with X60005 disconnected) is to test relay click and any Terminal 87 Activation.

Here is the Installation Location of X11010 at the JB, and the Connector view showing location of Pin #1:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/RKy9OeU
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/CTJCkOXS

Hang in there. The fact that you have the confidence and concentration on details to "proof" TIS suggest you will be able to solve this puzzle. :)

George
 

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I checked the same wiring diagram for my 3/14/2007 build 328xi (N52) and it has the ground to the DME Relay being provided by the same Pin #13 of Connector X60005 at the DME, BUT the wire that goes from Pin #13 of X60005 IS White/Gray, just as your photo #5 shows, with wire separated by small (HFT?) pick. BUT, on my 328xi N52, the color is RED/Gray on the other side of X60551. On your 335xi, is the wire to which the White/Gray wire from the DME connects at Pin #5 of X60551 Red/Gray or White/Gray (on the OTHER side of X60551)?

There is so much detail in TIS wiring diagrams that there are bound to be errors. I get as "spatially-challenged" as the next guy. If you are going to be getting a multimeter or you can scrounge up one or a test light (anything to test continuity of a wire), what I would suggest is testing the White/Gray or Red/Gray wire that runs from Pin #5 of X60551 and leaves the E-box, to see if that is the same wire (electrically-connected) as the wire (whether Red/Gray or White/Gray) that is found at Pin #1 of Connector X11010 at the top-Left of the JB fuse panel.

That is, after all, what we are trying to apply a ground to, in order to test the K6300 DME Relay. You could always just apply a ground to that pin on the top-left of the JB to test for Click & Voltage at Terminal 87, but we also need to test for ground at Pin #5 of X60551, AND for continuity between Pin #5 of X60551 & Pin #1 of X11010.

Perhaps I'm missing something, but if you have X60005 disconnected from the DME, I don't see what could be harmed by applying ground to ONLY Socket #13 of X60005. ALL we are trying to do in this limited test (with X60005 disconnected) is to test relay click and any Terminal 87 Activation.

Here is the Installation Location of X11010 at the JB, and the Connector view showing location of Pin #1:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/RKy9OeU
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/CTJCkOXS

Hang in there. The fact that you have the confidence and concentration on details to "proof" TIS suggest you will be able to solve this puzzle. :)

George
Thanks for the words of encouragement. I think we are getting there slowly but surely.

I think my plan as follows:

1. Remove the X60551 connector (male side) from the e-box and check the color of the wire at Pin #5 (cant see it with the pins facing up).
2. Regardless of color, I will check the continuity of the that Pin to Pin #13 of the X60005. If I get a tone, then I know that is the correct wire. I would feel confident that I can apply the ground to the female side of the connector (X60551) to see if that relay clicks.
3. If it I don't find continuity, then I will work on accessing the JB and test from there.

This logic sound okay?

Just to keep my mind straight, when applying ground to PIN #5 of the X60551 connector, the ignition should also be ON since it would need power to click? Should I have the connector plugged in to the male side as well as the X60005 connected to the DME? OR like your last statement, I could disconnect the X60005 connector from the DME and apply ground at Pin #13 provided that I have continuity all the way from X60005/#13 > X60551/#5 > Pin #1 of X11010. Again this requires the ignition to be ON?
 

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Okay, I think we are getting somewhere!

I have some wiring logic backwards but I have this figured out. I was able to find continuity on the WHITE/GREY wire!

Here are the results:
1. X60005 female connector Pin #13 goes to the X60551 FEMALE connector Pin #5 which is also WHITE/GREY. I was testing the male side of the X60551 connector thinking that wire never leaves the E-Box but that is not correct. The WHITE/GREY wire travels out of the E-BOX and comes back into the FEMALE connector of the X60551. See pics.

2. The WHITE/GREY wire continues on the male side of the X60005 connector Pin #5 and it actually loops into the X6011 male connector at Pin #5 then from there it changes wiring color to RED/GREY!! Sneaky! I've verified it by testing continuity from X60005 pin 13 to X6011 Pin #5 on the male side, just before it switches to RED/GREY.

So at this point, I think I am ready to apply ground. George, if you can confirm my logic from the bold statements in the previous post.
 

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... This logic sound okay? [Sounds like a PLAN! :thumbup:] ignition should also be ON since it would need power to click? [NOT if you just want to test K6300 function -- see below] Should I have the connector plugged in to the male side as well as the X60005 connected to the DME? OR like your last statement, I could disconnect the X60005 connector from the DME and apply ground at Pin #13 provided that I have continuity all the way from X60005/#13 > X60551/#5 > Pin #1 of X11010. Again this requires the ignition to be ON? [/B]
To simply test the DME Main Relay (K6300) to see if it functions, ALL you have to do is apply a ground, EITHER at X11010/Pin#1, OR at X60551/Pin#5 (latter assuming continuity between X60551 & X11010 ;-). Since the Relay coil is powered by Terminal 30 (Battery Power), you do NOT need ignition ON. If you get voltage at one of the sockets for fuse F37, then the relay is working (click is optional ;-). Here is F37 & K6300 circuit, simplified:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335xi-lim/components-connectors/components/f-fuses/f54-fuse/i1ukJnB

I have read your last post, and what I would suggest is to FIRST test for operation of the Relay ONLY, as described above. Do this with X60005 disconnected from the DME & Ignition OFF. IF you get relay click and 12V+ at F37, when you do this, then remove ground jumper, reconnect X60005 and all OTHER disconnected Connectors, and then apply ground at X60551/Pin#5, check for 12V+ at terminal 87 using INPA, and if good to go, Crank the Starter & see if it fires.

Think that through and let me know if you have any heartburn with that approach. If not, just give it a shot. :thumbup:

George
 

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L. I. B.; M. R. MISTAKES in TIS!! :tsk:

I attached the F37 circuit linked above just to show you that the relay is powered WITHOUT ignition ON. I did NOT look at it carefully. I NOW see in THAT wiring diagram (labeled F54 even though it clearly shows F37 ;-), that the wire going from Pin #13 of X60005 to the relay coil (ground) is WHITE/BLUE, and it goes to Connector X6011 (NOT X60551).

At Pin #5 of X6011, the wire becomes RED/GRAY and continues on to Pin #1 of X11010, where it presumably arrives as Red/Gray.

Is THAT what you ACTUALLY SEE in your E-box?
Does that HELP or further confuse?

George
 

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I don't want to ADD to the confusion, but I'm trying to learn how to BEST use TIS wiring diagrams. If I understand your posts in the last 12 hours:

1) The White/Gray wire from Pin #13 of X60005 (DME) goes to Pin #5 of Connector X60551.
2) From there it continues as White/Gray to Pin #5 of Connector X6011, to the LEFT of X60551 in the E-box.
3) From X6011/Pin#5 the wire becomes RED/GRAY and runs toward the firewall (presumably to X11010/Pin#1 ;-)

If that is the case, that is what is shown for my E91 328xi (late 2007 Model) in this wiring diagram for "Engine Connector 6011":
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e91-328xi-tou_200703/FvSwqNPn

NEITHER the wiring diagram for K6300 or the Fuse it powers (my F78 is same location & Function as your F37 on the JB fuse panel, just different number) show BOTH the X6011 & X60551 connectors between the DME & JB. The X6011 diagram linked above is the ONLY thing I have found that shows BOTH intervening connectors, which is what I understand YOU are describing that you SEE PHYSICALLY in your E-box.

If you would provide the last 7 characters of your VIN, I would be interested in seeing if "customizing" TIS to your particular vehicle provides a reference to the similar X6011 schematic linked above. Just general 335xi diagrams do NOT show it. Keep in mind that TIS is computer-sorted for a LOT of different variants, and translated from the original German, so there are a number of places that links to ALL necessary information can fall into a crack.

George
 

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I don't want to ADD to the confusion, but I'm trying to learn how to BEST use TIS wiring diagrams. If I understand your posts in the last 12 hours:

1) The White/Gray wire from Pin #13 of X60005 (DME) goes to Pin #5 of Connector X60551.
2) From there it continues as White/Gray to Pin #5 of Connector X6011, to the LEFT of X60551 in the E-box.
3) From X6011/Pin#5 the wire becomes RED/GRAY and runs toward the firewall (presumably to X11010/Pin#1 ;-)

If that is the case, that is what is shown for my E91 328xi (late 2007 Model) in this wiring diagram for "Engine Connector 6011":
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e91-328xi-tou_200703/FvSwqNPn

NEITHER the wiring diagram for K6300 or the Fuse it powers (my F78 is same location & Function as your F37 on the JB fuse panel, just different number) show BOTH the X6011 & X60551 connectors between the DME & JB. The X6011 diagram linked above is the ONLY thing I have found that shows BOTH intervening connectors, which is what I understand YOU are describing that you SEE PHYSICALLY in your E-box.

If you would provide the last 7 characters of your VIN, I would be interested in seeing if "customizing" TIS to your particular vehicle provides a reference to the similar X6011 schematic linked above. Just general 335xi diagrams do NOT show it. Keep in mind that TIS is computer-sorted for a LOT of different variants, and translated from the original German, so there are a number of places that links to ALL necessary information can fall into a crack.

George
No, I don't think it's confusing now that I have traced the wiring, plus with testing continuity of that wire from X60005 to x6011 (with the X60551 plugged in), I am 100% certain that what you and I stated above are correct. The only assumption we are making now is that the RED/GREY wire leaving the X6011 goes the PIN 1 of the X11010. I could take the JB apart to verify but I think I'm gonna take that one on faith since it's consistent across several schematics.

My last 7 of my VIN is e066737. I'm pretty sure I used that to track my wiring schematics down. I will follow your plan and proceed with testing later today. I have will test for voltage first from FUSE37 once I've disconnected the X60005 connector from the DME and apply ground essentially at any point on that WHITE/GREY wire as long as the X6011/X60551 are connected. I'll report my findings one I have the results.
 

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Alright, so I performed the tests we had talked about. Here are the results:

1. I applied a ground wire from the chassis (strut tower bolt) to PIN #1 of X6011, RED/GREY wire. Immediately, I heard an audible click from the X11010, DME relay in the JB.

2. I measured one of the F37 sockets and got a 10.93v, not the 12v we were looking for but my battery has been uncharged for some time now, measuring at the battery netted me around ~11.5v

3. I WAS NOT able to get INPA to connected to the LIVE DATA/MWB1 to measure KL.87, but I went ahead and attempted to start the car after reconnecting all of the various connectors and leaving the ground jumper cable in place. The remains CRANK but NO START.

At this point, I believe I can eliminate the DME relay as an issue based on test 1 & 2, is this a fair statement?

If so, does that mean that most likely PIN #13 on my DME is bad and in need of repair?
 

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I pulled the cover off of the DME and found that one of the solder points on X60007 was scorched (see pic), unless there is a definitive way to check? I didn't take the board out since it was glued to the shell but I'm thinking this is enough evidence for me to have the DME looked at.

Does anyone know a good place to send it in for possible repair? I found SIA Electronics via a Google search and their pricing seems reasonable.

http://siaelec.com/product/msd80-bmw-dme-repair-return/
 

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Another Update :/

Received my cloned DME today AND... still no improvement. :cry::cry:
The DME is still not activating the relay and I am unable clear the codes. CRANK/NO START issue remains. I tried to do this in INPA and I didn't get an error like I did before but it never activates and shows no voltage at KL87.

I'm at a lost at this point as I thought the DME was really the culprit. I've begin tearing the JB from the car, out of desperation and will be ordering a replacement. I think I'm grasping for straws at this point.

Anyone have any other recommendations?
 

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... Received my cloned DME today AND... still no improvement...
The DME is still not activating the relay and I am unable clear the codes. CRANK/NO START issue remains. I tried to do this in INPA and I didn't get an error like I did before but it never activates and shows no voltage at KL87...
I would recommend essentially starting over in the testing, as there may be something fundamental that was missed. I don't know about you, but for me, the "boggle factor" sets in after reading more than a half-dozen wiring diagrams in a sitting. I've got 7 such "Tabs" open at the moment, so my apologies if there are errors below. It's bad enough when it's NOT your car. When it is, frustration is also a factor. :)

From what you have posted, I don't think there is anything wrong with the JB, as the DME Relay clicks when ground is applied. HOWEVER, I would RETEST as described below to make SURE the click you hear is actually the DME Relay, AND that it is actually POWERING KL87. You stated in post #28 (perhaps in error) that you applied ground to Pin #1 of X6011? I hope you meant pin #5 of X6011. The ground signal from the DME (Pin #13 of X60005) goes through BOTH Pin #5 of X6011 and Pin #5 of X60551 according to our earlier discussions, and your description in post #23.

So HERE is the TIS circuit diagram for YOUR 2008 335xi E92, using the last 7 characters of your VIN:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335xi-cou_200803/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-quality-control-valve-msv/voltage-supply/control-unit-power-supply/internal-fault/internal-control-unit-fault/vMifIQL

NOTE: that shows ONLY X60551 connector between DME & K6300 DME Relay. Here is the Installation Location again for BOTH X60551 & X6011:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335xi-cou_200803/S7vd3wc

I would restrict testing at this point to trying to get KL87 to show battery voltage using INPA MWB 1, Terminal 87 to show voltage value. That's your 3rd screen attached to your post #17. With ignition OFF, apply a ground to pin #5 of X60551 (Red/Gray wire), and see if you get KL87 Voltage. You MAY have to turn on ignition to get INPA to connect to DME to see MWB 1.

It would NOT be that difficult to test continuity between X60551/Pin#5 & Pin #1 of X11010 on the other end of that Red/Gray wire, as connector X11010 is on the fuse panel side of the JB at the upper-left corner. As in replacing a fuse, simply remove panel in "rear" of glovebox (vehicle forward side ;-) and reach through to disconnect X11010. Here are Installation Location & Connector View:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335xi-cou_200803/RKy9OeU
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335xi-cou_200803/CTJCkOXS

There are some errors in TIS due to changes in component locations & configurations between different models & variants, so I would go SLOW and test Continuity of EACH wire to make sure the TIS diagrams are CORRECT for YOUR wiring setup.

Since your issue began with a coolant spill that got into the E-box, it is logical to expect that the problem is water damage to a connector, short which blew a fuse (recheck F4 & F37 ELECTRICALLY for voltage OUT), corroded connection, etc.

Finally, if you DO get battery voltage at KL87, even if it is ONLY with ground jumper attached to Pin #5 of X60551, see if engine will fire when cranked. If NOT, then we can devise some tests to see WHAT is NOT being powered (going back to JB circuit showing all fuses powered by KL87).

George
 

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I would recommend essentially starting over in the testing, as there may be something fundamental that was missed. I don't know about you, but for me, the "boggle factor" sets in after reading more than a half-dozen wiring diagrams in a sitting. I've got 7 such "Tabs" open at the moment, so my apologies if there are errors below. It's bad enough when it's NOT your car. When it is, frustration is also a factor. :)

From what you have posted, I don't think there is anything wrong with the JB, as the DME Relay clicks when ground is applied. HOWEVER, I would RETEST as described below to make SURE the click you hear is actually the DME Relay, AND that it is actually POWERING KL87. You stated in post #28 (perhaps in error) that you applied ground to Pin #1 of X6011? I hope you meant pin #5 of X6011. The ground signal from the DME (Pin #13 of X60005) goes through BOTH Pin #5 of X6011 and Pin #5 of X60551 according to our earlier discussions, and your description in post #23.

So HERE is the TIS circuit diagram for YOUR 2008 335xi E92, using the last 7 characters of your VIN:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335xi-cou_200803/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-quality-control-valve-msv/voltage-supply/control-unit-power-supply/internal-fault/internal-control-unit-fault/vMifIQL

NOTE: that shows ONLY X60551 connector between DME & K6300 DME Relay. Here is the Installation Location again for BOTH X60551 & X6011:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335xi-cou_200803/S7vd3wc

I would restrict testing at this point to trying to get KL87 to show battery voltage using INPA MWB 1, Terminal 87 to show voltage value. That's your 3rd screen attached to your post #17. With ignition OFF, apply a ground to pin #5 of X60551 (Red/Gray wire), and see if you get KL87 Voltage. You MAY have to turn on ignition to get INPA to connect to DME to see MWB 1.

It would NOT be that difficult to test continuity between X60551/Pin#5 & Pin #1 of X11010 on the other end of that Red/Gray wire, as connector X11010 is on the fuse panel side of the JB at the upper-left corner. As in replacing a fuse, simply remove panel in "rear" of glovebox (vehicle forward side ;-) and reach through to disconnect X11010. Here are Installation Location & Connector View:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335xi-cou_200803/RKy9OeU
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335xi-cou_200803/CTJCkOXS

There are some errors in TIS due to changes in component locations & configurations between different models & variants, so I would go SLOW and test Continuity of EACH wire to make sure the TIS diagrams are CORRECT for YOUR wiring setup.

Since your issue began with a coolant spill that got into the E-box, it is logical to expect that the problem is water damage to a connector, short which blew a fuse (recheck F4 & F37 ELECTRICALLY for voltage OUT), corroded connection, etc.

Finally, if you DO get battery voltage at KL87, even if it is ONLY with ground jumper attached to Pin #5 of X60551, see if engine will fire when cranked. If NOT, then we can devise some tests to see WHAT is NOT being powered (going back to JB circuit showing all fuses powered by KL87).

George
Definitely frustrated but I will persevere. I elected to replace the JB anyways since there is a Service Bulletin regarding the JB and the B+ cable.

Since I have the JB removed, I have all of the connectors available for testing. I am able to confirm the I am getting continuity by doing following:

1. Tested continuity from PIN 5 of X60551 (my mistake trying in the previous post of the PIN location) to PIN 1 of X11010 - confirmed tone on multi meter and good continuity.

2. Tested continuity from PIN 13 of X60005 to PIN 1 of X11010 - confirmed tone on multi meter and good continuity. This effectively confirms that the wiring from the DME at PIN 13 has good continuity to the PIN 1 of X11010, the connection to the K6300 relay.

Next, I will test again with the ground jumper to see if I can get INPA to show voltage for KL 87. More results to follow.
 

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WTF?!?!? The car is alive!!! Seriously have no idea how and what I did that I didn't do before.

I plugged all of the connectors back on the JB/JBE. Hooked up and tested the DME Relay, had my wife touch the ground as I was literally in front of the JB. Heard the click several times confirming the location of the sound. It was definitelty the K6300 clicking.

Next, plug the DME back in and opened INPA. Load the LIVE Data > MWB1 and instantly saw voltage on the KL87. I was like, no f**ing way, hit the start button and it started right up!!

Ran the codes, which still showed 2ACB/2ACC along with a bunch of other codes. I went ahead and clear them an now no codes!! I'm so happy and yet so dumbfounded on why it didn't start when i replaced the DME and now it does. Only thing was maybe re-seating an assortment of connectors and fuses fixed it.

Again thanks for you input George!! Your guidance on this has been nothing short of amazing.

Hopefully, the process of putting everything back together isn't gonna cause this again.
 

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... The car is alive!!! Seriously have no idea how and what I did that I didn't do before. I plugged all of the connectors back on the JB/JBE. Hooked up and tested the DME Relay, had my wife touch the ground [The missing ingredient -- a woman's touch :)] as I was literally in front of the JB. Heard the click several times confirming the location of the sound. It was definitely the K6300 clicking.

Next, plug the DME back in and opened INPA. Load the LIVE Data > MWB1 and instantly saw voltage on the KL87. I was like, no f**ing way, hit the start button and it started right up!!... now no codes!! I'm so happy and yet so dumbfounded on why it didn't start when i replaced the DME and now it does. Only thing was maybe re-seating an assortment of connectors and fuses fixed it.
Congratulations!!! :thumbup:

So now you are a Master BMW Diagnostician! Not much you can't properly diagnose NOW with the help of TIS & INPA. ;)

Is this with the original JB? If so, it had to be a loose or corroded connector that you hadn't disconnected or noticed before (such as X11010), or something just happened to dry out in the E-box. All's well that ends WELL (DONE ;-)!

George
 

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Congratulations!!! :thumbup:

So now you are a Master BMW Diagnostician! Not much you can't properly diagnose NOW with the help of TIS & INPA. ;)

Is this with the original JB? If so, it had to be a loose or corroded connector that you hadn't disconnected or noticed before (such as X11010), or something just happened to dry out in the E-box. All's well that ends WELL (DONE ;-)!

George
Definitely learns a lot about the electronics of this car! Still much to learn. :)

It is the original JB which as we suspected was good but maybe re-seating all of the connectors/fuses fixed the issue or my wife had the magic touch. :rofl:

Thanks again for everything!
 

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Similar issue!

Got an 09 328xi, crank no start, didnt have power at the dme because i couldnt communicate via OBDII...

check if they relay was working by grounding to pin 1 on the connector at the fuse box under the dash, confirmed clicking... few hours later found that the 10a fuse at F50 slot was missing, replaced the fuse and relays started clicking as normal when i push the start button, PROGRESS!

now ....

I have codes: 2acb, 2acc, and one other that i cant remember the code number but i have the water pump code that usually accompanies these codes aswell... cant seem to find F37 fuse to check for continuity... I hear a relay clicking inside the under dash fusebox when i hit the push to start...

the under hood fuse box where the DME is, doesent have the little fuse block with the 5 fuses in it that ive seen shown in a few posts ive been searching through, and ive looked at bunches of diagrams and cant seem to find F37 Anywhere.

Is the sky blue relay and 40a fuse adjacent to it, the relay that their talking about ?
I havent checked continuity of that relay yet when the coil activated, will do it tomorrow!...

any idea how to find f37, and further diagnose this issue ??

Thanks -Jeff
 

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... 09 328xi, crank no start, didnt have power at the dme because i couldnt communicate via OBDII...[WHAT Scan Tool or Software such as INPA are you using to try to "Connect" with the DME?]
check if they relay [DME Relay K6300?] was working by grounding to pin 1 on the connector at the fuse box under the dash, confirmed clicking [Pin 1 of WHAT Connector? photo or TIS wiring diagram Link please so we can "follow along at home" :D]... few hours later found that the 10a fuse at F50 slot [F50 on 2008 & Later models is 30 Amp and powers Wiper Relays, as shown in TIS wiring Diagram Linked Below. See CORRECT Fuse Chart for 2008 & Later models is attached] was missing, replaced the fuse and relays [WHICH relays?] started clicking as normal when i push the start button [Foot on Brake/Clutch or NOT?], PROGRESS!...

I have codes: 2acb, 2acc,[DME Activation & Function Codes] and one other that i cant remember the code number [?!?] but i have the water pump code [the "water pump codes" are 2E81 throu 2E85, and have NOTHING to do with DME Relay Codes :tsk:] that usually accompanies these codes aswell... cant seem to find F37 fuse to check for continuity... I hear ent checked continuity of that relay yet when the coil activated, will do it tomorrow!...
a relay clicking inside the under dash fusebox when i hit the push to start...

the under hood fuse box where the DME is, doesnt have the little fuse block with the 5 fuses in it that ive seen shown in a few posts ive been searching through, and ive looked at bunches of diagrams and cant seem to find F37 Anywhere...
Hi Jeff, Welcome to the Forum!

Details MATTER! :bigpimp:
When trying to get help (which I PRESUME WAS your goal?), garbage in = garbage out, so to get SERIOUS help, you need to present correct data.

1) What Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software (such as INPA) do you have available?
2) Do you have a Multimeter & know how to use it to test (1) Voltage & (2) Continuity (Resistance/Ohms)?

The first thing that occurs to me is that you are NOT aware of the wealth of information available in TIS Online Service Manual, and/or Bentley Manual. See the attached "E9x References" pdf for Links to those References and MORE.

Also attached are TWO ScreenPrints of Bentley Fuse Chart for 2008 & Later Models. Be aware that the Layout of the JB (Junction Box) Fuse Panel changed effective 3/1/2007, so there are TWO different possibilities of fuse position. Don't be confused by a photo/diagram of a fuse panel BEFORE 3/1/2007, and also be aware that prior to 3/1/2007, there was MORE stuff in the E-box with the DME Module.

You seem to have the DESIRE to DIY and learn how things work, but the mistake most people make is NOT being SLOW, PATIENT, & METHODICAL in (1) learning what Reference Resources exist and how to use them, and (2) carefully analyzing how a system is supposed to work, using the wiring diagrams and Functional Descriptions found in TIS & Bentley. You seem to have the ABILITY to DIY IF you don't make the mistake above. YouTube or other Videos can add helpful 'supplemental information", but a video SELDOM provides a proper overview of HOW a System works, and the guy you see presenting the video SELDOM knows anything but the particular car he is working on, and OFTEN does NOT even fully identify THAT vehicle.

Fault Codes you identified, Definitions per BMW Fault Code Lookup:
2ACB | DME: DME master relay, activation | msv80
2ACC | DME: DME master relay, shift delay | msv80

Those codes indicate that "at least on ONE occasion" the DME Main Relay did NOT activate, and/or was SLOW activating. INPA (and SOME Scan Tools) will tell you IF a particular fault is Currently Present or NOT, and the mileage/km at which the fault code was saved, along with other System Parmeters/Values (such as Voltage, Temp, etc.), called "Freeze Frame Data". In this case, since the Starter Cranks the Engine, but the Engine does NOT "fire" or run, it is safe to ASSume the DME Relay is NOT becoming activated when Ignition is turned ON (just press START WITHOUT pressing Brake or Clutch).

So FIRST, confirm the DME Relay is NOT "closing" to provide B+ to "Terminal 87". You seem to understand WHY that is important, and HOW to do it, as you are inquiring about fuse F37. As shown in this TIS wiring diagram of the DME Power Supply, via the DME Main Relay, K6300, F37 is ONE of the fuses powered by the Relay:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328xi-lim/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-quality-control-valve-msv/voltage-supply/control-unit-power-supply/internal-fault/internal-control-unit-fault/vSeDDOT

Although NOT shown on THAT schematic which relates ONLY to DME Power Supply, the DME Main Relay, K6300, which "Activates Terminal 87" also powers fuses F38, F39, F11, F16 & F17 when it supplies Power to JB "Terminal 87" as shown in this JB (Junction Box) schematic (look for "Kl.87" = Terminal 87; Klemmen = Terminal, German translated to English):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328xi-lim/wiring-functional-info/functional-wiring-diagrams/09-vehicle-electrical-system/front-fuse-relay-module/1VnXpW4emV

So, if you have a Multimeter, pull fuse F37, select DC Volts<20V Range on your meter, contact chassis ground with Black probe; then with the Red probe, contact each (separately) of the two spade sockets of the vacated F37 socket on the JB Fuse Panel, with Ignition ON. If NEITHER shows any voltage, the Main Relay is NOT activating.

So WHERE is F37 fuse on 2008 & Later E9x? This TIS "Installation Location" for F37 shows it the SAME place the attached Bentley Fuse Chart shows it, above & to Right of Fuse Puller:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328xi-lim/components-connectors/components/f-fuses/f37-fuse/1VnYmxVJ04

Please check back with test results and we'll get specific on HOW to best check for CAUSE of K6300 malfunction. Don't forget to tell us WHAT Diagnostic Tools you have.

George
 

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Thanks alot for your reply george!

My issue was i have found that schematic and fuse panel diagram, but the fuse location for 37 was empty, and only one of the terminals has a female spade connector in it, the other side appears to be blank, seeming as though that spot on the JB is not being used... which is why i have been so confused and not able to find the exact issue myself because like you said, im pretty tech savy myself.. ive seen all your other replies on this post and was able to get this far with them! your EXTREMELY intelligent when it comes to this stuff, me and my buddy surfing the forums could tell, we were talking about it lastnight haha! Thanks for any insight...

Attached is a picture of the JB in the car!


Edit, The picture attached shows fuse #50 missing, this picture was what lead me to the discovery that it was missing and it has since been added, which is how i was able to restore power to the DME and later was able to communicate to it with my Snap on Scanner, And my INPA software with a K+Dcan Cable

Update! I was able to use the INPA Software, to see that the dme is getting 12.6 Volts via Terminal 87 and it was actuated normally with a push of the key without the clutch or brake pedal depressed, also was able to use the INPA software to command on the water pump and verify that the pump infact does run when commanded in with INPA... not sure how to proceed with this new info, Still getting 2acc, 2acb, 2e85 and 2ded codes out of the DME with my Snap on scan tool and with the INPA software, it also indicated that the code mileage is at the current mileage on the car.

Below is also a picture of the INPA screen on the laptop while connected VIA obdII port and checking the the DME power, the picture status is F3, which is the car doing it itself, i didnt have to F1 to turn it on, it was already on as the car was in the on position - The plot Thickens!
Starting to look more like a CAS module issue ? some type of security issue ? the car wont do a cas/ews synchronization with the snap on tool, reports that the car is equipped with an EWS4 module instead!
 

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... Edit, The picture attached shows fuse #50 missing, this picture was what lead me to the discovery that it was missing and it has since been added, which is how i was able to restore power to the DME and later was able to communicate to it with my Snap on Scanner, And my INPA software with a K+Dcan Cable
You have a 2009 Model, Correct? If so the attached "Edited" photo should correctly identify fuse F37 and F50. I added Red Oval with Number for F37 (DME Relay-powered), and Red Rectangle for F50 (Wiper) to your photo, and attach it below. As I understand the TIS & Bentley Fuse Charts, your original photo shows F37 missing, and F50 present.

I don't understand WHAT your current situation is. Does the car now Start? Do the wipers work? If you remove fuse F37 and test for 12V+ voltage at either of the two spade sockets with Ignition ON, what do you get? As stated in the prior post, if the DME Relay is NOT being activated, you would NOT have power to fuse sockets, F11, F16, 17, F38 or F39 either (in addition to no power in F37 socket).

If you have INPA, you can Test for proper activation of ALL Terminals using these screens, which are attached below:
INPA > CAS > F5 Status > F2 > F1 Diagnose Terminals (KL15, KL30G, KL50)
INPA > DME > F5 Status > F2 > F1 Measured Values, Group 1 (View Status of KL87)
INPA > DME > F6 Activations > F2 > F1 Activate KL 87

If you confirm that Terminal 87 (DME Relay) is NOT activating and supplying B+ to F37 and the other 5 fuses listed for KL87, let me know and I can suggest how to test the relay itself which is soldered to the JB board at the Top-Right of the JB Fuse Panel.

George
 

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