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With 200000 km on the engine it was leaking from the valve cover and oil filter cooler. Other that leaking oil - it was running fine. I changed the three gaskets, put in new plugs and a new battery. With a BMW code reader it is throwing a few codes such as 0F voltage supply EWS3 control module, 80 RLS control unit, 50 MRS power supply, 55C4/not present, and 14 LM wife brake light switch open sensory.

Any advice before I get this towed to an Indy would be greatly appreciated.
 

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OK... so it was running fine until you did the work, and then after ward, it won't fire?

I'd check that you firmly re-connect all electrical connections you had to disconnect. Clear the codes and see specifically which ones return. Codes aside, it sounds like crank position sensor, but on a BMW, wouldn't have been touched.
 

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Thanks for the quick reply dukedket442! I went through the engine and checked all of the electrical connections: two negative ground wires, valvetronic sensor, eccentric shaft sensor, six spark plug coils, camshaft position sensor, and oil pressure switch sensor. I tried to start it - strong cranking still no start. I deleted and ran the codes - same codes. Have I missed something?
 

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1) Wiring harness grounds reconnected? (to the two small bolts in the center-ish of the valve cover)?
2) Coils' plugs fully seated (tricky -- must press the plugs in with your thumbs before closing the latches)?
3) Fuel injector connectors fully seated?
 

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Hi BMWaufKS - yes the two bolts are reconnected, the plugs in the coils are fully seated and the fuel injector harness is back in place.
 

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If all the electrical connections were reconnected properly and you put everything back together the way it came apart, not exactly sure what it could be at this point.

Maybe you got a weak replacement battery?

Try pulling cylinder #1 spark plug to see if it's wet and reeks of fuel.
 

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Did you disconnect the battery during this process? If so, are the yellow "BRAKE" and "4x4" lights illuminated? That requires recalibrating the steering angle sensor, by turning the wheel lock to lock a few times. Shouldn't make for a no-start condition.

Fuel air and spark are needed... if you're getting fuel at the plugs, that points to spark. My best guess is that something got disturbed during the VC removal that got missed upon re-assembly.
 

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Like the O2 sensors?

If no obviously unconnected things, I'd go through and redo all the connections (off then back on) to make sure they are fully seated, no snapped wires, etc.

And did you do the reset procedure before attempting to start it for the first time? (Key to RUN but not START for ~30 seconds, then OFF/out for ~10 seconds; repeat once.)
 

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Thanks for the advice dukedkt442 and BMWaufKS.

Here is the latest - I pulled #1 - wet with fuel. I pulled/removed and replaced all the electrical connects ( two negative ground wires, valvetronic sensor, eccentric shaft sensor, six spark plug coils, camshaft position sensor, and oil pressure switch sensor) and the fuel injector harness and reinstalled - no snapped wires - am I missing something? I followed the steps for the reset procedure before I tried starting it the first time. The new battery has 875 cranking amps (I am sure it is OK_ and the steering angle sensor needs to be re-calibrated.
 

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Mystery. Got the coils down good and firm...reconnected the CCV tube at the back of the engine (I almost forgot when I did my VC). Im not sure if it was related ...instict tells me no but when I first cranked my engine after the VC change, I got a P1415 code. I hadnt gotten it before. The DISA went bad and broke. Engine would crank real nice and it would start but instantly die. Are the wire harnesses all secure.....could you have crossed plug wires? That would be hard to do unless the harness was broken or something. Did you follow the procedure on the eccentric motor for re installation? I did indeed not do that correctly and had to back it out and then back in.
 

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The only other electrical connection I can think of that you may have missed is the vanos solenoid connections if you unhooked them to get the whole harness out of the way.

How does it sound when cranking?

If plug #1 is wet with fuel, I'd pull all the plugs out clean them with carb or brake cleaner and let them dry.

Then put about a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder and cycle the engine for 20-30 seconds with the plugs out.

Afterwards put plugs back in and try starting it.

Not sure if it will solve your problem, but it's worth a shot I guess.
 

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Here is the latest - I pulled #1 - wet with fuel.
Take and post here a close-up picture, probably with flash, of one of the coil-connections: perpendicular to the top of the coil and showing the gap between the electrical connector and the coil (with the clamp closed).
 

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From left field:

I've never seen defective spark plugs, so maybe double-check if they are the correct type/length/... If wrong it could be that they are too short, and thus not engaging with the end of the coils? (Or if coils themselves are not fully seated?)
 

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Others:

Could he have triggered some kind of kill-switch security feature, by disconnecting the battery (maybe for quite a while)? I'm assuming he didn't use the advised jumper power-source while replacing the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hi everyone - first thanks for all of your advice - greatly appreciated! So the problem turned out to be electrical - and it was BMWaufKS' advice to "Take and post here a close-up picture, probably with flash, of one of the coil-connections: perpendicular to the top of the coil and showing the gap between the electrical connector and the coil (with the clamp closed)." As I was about to do this I noticed that three out of six of the electrical connectors had a small gap. Pushing them in completely, the vehicle turned over and started!
 

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I learned it the hard way myself! Via advice from another here, I solved it that way too.
 

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Hi everyone - first thanks for all of your advice - greatly appreciated! So the problem turned out to be electrical - and it was BMWaufKS' advice to "Take and post here a close-up picture, probably with flash, of one of the coil-connections: perpendicular to the top of the coil and showing the gap between the electrical connector and the coil (with the clamp closed)." As I was about to do this I noticed that three out of six of the electrical connectors had a small gap. Pushing them in completely, the vehicle turned over and started!
HA! gotta love those type of conclusions that require no new $$$ or parts. The aftermarket coils I have only clicked and felt good the very first time I put them in. They work but the connections are a pain. Ive learned to actually use a long flathead screwdriver kind of like a lever to seat those connections in so those "gaps" you describe disappear. I learned the hard way as well that even one not "snug" just right throws it off. You would think there would be a better tolerance for play with those but if they arent perfect its trouble. Thankfully, once Ive squeezed them all the way in there, they have never vibrated or slif out or anything like that. they do stay put once in right.
 

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HA! gotta love those type of conclusions that require no new $$$ or parts. The aftermarket coils I have only clicked and felt good the very first time I put them in. They work but the connections are a pain. Ive learned to actually use a long flathead screwdriver kind of like a lever to seat those connections in so those "gaps" you describe disappear. I learned the hard way as well that even one not "snug" just right throws it off. You would think there would be a better tolerance for play with those but if they arent perfect its trouble. Thankfully, once Ive squeezed them all the way in there, they have never vibrated or slif out or anything like that. they do stay put once in right.
I use channel-locks to fully seat them (delicately, of course).
 
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