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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

I have not posted for awhile mainly because we have really had no issues with the BMW's in the house. I have a major problem with my wife's X5 35d. I have been on the road for three weeks for work, and she calls me Sunday on the way to church with the kids. What she said was pulling out of the neighbourhood and went to accelerate, and she got the "Engine Malfunction Reduce Power" warning. I quickly did a forum search had her turn off the car open the door and then close the door and restart. The warning went away, and I figured it was just one of those BMW glitches well she call me back 15 minutes later and the same thing. So when she got home, I had her pull my code reader and got her to hook it up, and it gave me the following codes

p0401, p0101,p0299,p0069

But she said the reader said there were 11 codes, but that was all it was showing. Since I was not at home and she has never used a reader, I had here wait until Monday and then call AAA to tow it to the local shop that works on European cars, great place with great reviews and totally trust them BTW.

So the shop calls me and gives me the BMW Specific codes which are

4862 = Air to EGR Mass
3F25 = Charge Air Monitoring
4865 = Air to Egr
4C83 = Exhaust Back Pressure Before Turbo
48DC = Charging Pressure Sensor
4B82 = EGR rate controll deviation
4507 = Same as above
4530 Charging pressure control High PRessure Stage Pressure to low/Positive COntrol Deveation
3FF0 = Air Mass Sensor
4C04 = EGT Before Cat
4C09 = Sam as above
4C0E = EGT Before SCR

The shop suggested calling the dealer as they see a recall on this vehicle for SCR catalyst and EGR valve. When I did they told me, there was not and that if is was indeed the SCR Filter or Mixer I was looking at over $5,000 in repair cost. They said they would be happy to take a look, and the local shop probably could not handle the work due to special tools. This car is 2,000 miles out of the extended warranty and slightly over 100,000 miles.

Does anyone have any experience with these issues any thoughts? The shop said they would be willing to try and diagnose the problem and then decide if it is necessary to go to the dealer but I'm out of town still and not sure what to do here. I know if it goes to the dealer I'm going to pay big time even if that is not the issue at hand....

Never had any problems with the car drives great and there was no indication of anything before this.

Thanks in advance
 

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Resident Curmudgeon
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Are all of those 'current' codes? So did they occur in the last few hundred miles? You could reset and drive for a while and see which come back, it may help narrow it down.

second, does your indy shop have access to the BMW software, dagnostics and 'testplans'???? This is a paid subscription service.

I had many of those on my 2010 wihch I lemoned in 2012. I had multiple recallls. IMO it is worth getting an independent read on recalls.

not sure if your warranty will cover emissions stuff anyway, but if the detailed code read shows these as occuring before 100k, (and they can print out this detail) maybe the shop can play ball?
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 98K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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The stealership is Barbara Streisanding without a documented Test Plan completion and evaluation. In NC you should have your choice of which dealership gets the work, call around to find a more sympathetic ear.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Are all of those 'current' codes? So did they occur in the last few hundred miles? You could reset and drive for a while and see which come back, it may help narrow it down.

second, does your indy shop have access to the BMW software, dagnostics and 'testplans'???? This is a paid subscription service.

I had many of those on my 2010 wihch I lemoned in 2012. I had multiple recallls. IMO it is worth getting an independent read on recalls.

not sure if your warranty will cover emissions stuff anyway, but if the detailed code read shows these as occuring before 100k, (and they can print out this detail) maybe the shop can play ball?
Thank you for the reply!

Those are current codes, they did a reset at the shop and test drove it the tech is going to call after lunch as five of the codes had check marks on the sheet and the owner wasn't sure why the tech had checked them off. Maybe they did not come back but I will find out.

My understanding is that they have the subscription access as they do a lot of BMW work and have some ex-dealer techs working there but I will specifically ask.

I will have my wife pull the extended warranty but you are probably correct on that. It is a good idea to get the dates on the codes though just in case I can argue the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The stealership is Barbara Streisanding without a documented Test Plan completion and evaluation. In NC you should have your choice of which dealership gets the work, call around to find a more sympathetic ear.
Thank you for the reply!

You are correct there. I live on the coast, and the two dealers are 65 and 95 miles away, and unfortunately, I have had a bad experience with both. I called the dealer in Raleigh, which is a lot further, and they confirmed what the other said about no recall they could find. With that stated that they were at least more reasonable saying they could not say what it is nor would they speculate without seeing it first.

I guess that the recalls on 2010 may not have applied to my vehicle because I did find a voluntary recall #11E-A03 that some posted on the forum with a BMW letter but no one seems to know anything about it when I ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You might also try for a goodwill repair if the items would have fallen under a warranty repair.

Here is an explanation.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9788625&postcount=25
Thanks for the reply!

Hummmm that I have taken all my vehicles to the same dealer for 10 plus years.. They were a little put off with me today I think because I told them it was at a local shop and since it had to get towed it seemed like it was best for her to get it to the closest place. I have no idea the difference between the repair types they list but I also assume that this is only if the work is done at a dealer and this is what I am debating right now. Let the shop that has it do it or take it to the dealer and hope they don't rake me over. My hope is that with the local shop they will go through and find out the issue and look to fix that vs just replacing stuff and give me a $5,000 bill.
 

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Thank you for the reply!

You are correct there. I live on the coast, and the two dealers are 65 and 95 miles away, and unfortunately, I have had a bad experience with both. I called the dealer in Raleigh, which is a lot further, and they confirmed what the other said about no recall they could find. With that stated that they were at least more reasonable saying they could not say what it is nor would they speculate without seeing it first.

I guess that the recalls on 2010 may not have applied to my vehicle because I did find a voluntary recall #11E-A03 that some posted on the forum with a BMW letter but no one seems to know anything about it when I ask.
Like ARD said, try to clear codes and see what comes back.
I have now active code on EGR. Cleared it with Carly and keeps coming back. If it was not under warranty I would simply take down EGR and clean it, but since it is under warranty I do not care, BMW will replace it.
So, clear it, see what comes back. If car is driven a lot in the city it could be EGR. Take it down, buy cleaning spray for EGR. It will take you an hour. If it is SCR etc. then try to find good indy mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Like ARD said, try to clear codes and see what comes back.
I have now active code on EGR. Cleared it with Carly and keeps coming back. If it was not under warranty I would simply take down EGR and clean it, but since it is under warranty I do not care, BMW will replace it.
So, clear it, see what comes back. If car is driven a lot in the city it could be EGR. Take it down, buy cleaning spray for EGR. It will take you an hour. If it is SCR etc. then try to find good indy mechanic.
Thank you for the reply. for the last 18 months it has mainly been an in town vehicle. My wife had a job change and is now working from home so it sits a lot and then goes short distance taking the kids to soccer or something. She has had a few long trips to FL and SC this summer but that is it. So maybe the EGR could be the issue. Unfortunately, I'm not in town or I would try the EGR cleaner myself. But given I need to get something done and she had it towed to the Indy shop here I just called them. The tech is going to clean the EGR, make sure all the hoses are tight and clear the codes, take it for a test ride and let me know more ....

If that is it then I will just drive it more and try to clean it myself once in awhile fingers crossed and thanks for the recomendation...
 

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If this were my X5, I would clear the codes, start it, and immediately scan for new codes. You need to focus your attention to the first one or two that come up. Scanning with Rheingold/ISTA will show you the mileage when the code occurred. It will then give you step by steps to troubleshoot the specific code. Sometimes the test plans can even test the component in question.

The air mass meter is required for controlling the EGR so my money is on MAF When I was troubleshooting my EGR issues, I would unplug MAF to disable the EGR systems. The E90 335d guys seem to get bad MAFs all the time. To test they unplug the maf and see if the car runs better, so that may be a great first test.
 

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You are getting good advice and are on the right path... one comment: by 'current' I didn't mean "what they just read'

All codes, new, old, two years old, will all stay stored in memory- until you read them. Then they all appear. By clearing and driving until a CEL comes on you figure out which from that first batch were old and which are "current". Thats what I meant by current,

Report back- GL
 

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Thank you for the reply. for the last 18 months it has mainly been an in town vehicle. My wife had a job change and is now working from home so it sits a lot and then goes short distance taking the kids to soccer or something. She has had a few long trips to FL and SC this summer but that is it. So maybe the EGR could be the issue. Unfortunately, I'm not in town or I would try the EGR cleaner myself. But given I need to get something done and she had it towed to the Indy shop here I just called them. The tech is going to clean the EGR, make sure all the hoses are tight and clear the codes, take it for a test ride and let me know more ....

If that is it then I will just drive it more and try to clean it myself once in awhile fingers crossed and thanks for the recomendation...
Few long trips will just postpone EGR issue a bit. I got a car with 34,900 miles and I think it was driven like your wife drives the one you have. I drive mostly HWY< reline engine all the time, push hard, but EGR issue showed up because once soot is build up, it will stay there.
If EGR is issue, and you cannot change driving habits, try to use top tier diesel, Shell, Chevron etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If this were my X5, I would clear the codes, start it, and immediately scan for new codes. You need to focus your attention to the first one or two that come up. Scanning with Rheingold/ISTA will show you the mileage when the code occurred. It will then give you step by steps to troubleshoot the specific code. Sometimes the test plans can even test the component in question.

The air mass meter is required for controlling the EGR so my money is on MAF When I was troubleshooting my EGR issues, I would unplug MAF to disable the EGR systems. The E90 335d guys seem to get bad MAFs all the time. To test they unplug the maf and see if the car runs better, so that may be a great first test.
@smassey321 Thanks for the reply. Of course, this happens when one is on the road. I'm back tomorrow night and plan to call the shop in the morning to check in. They have been very open and more than willing to talk it through which is a good sign I think. What you are saying about the MAF makes perfect sense. I have a TDI conversion on my 87 VW SYNCO and I was going into limp mode a lot and I was able to trace it down to the MAF that way. I would unplug it and it ran better I replaced it and had a new tune done to the ECU and problem solved.

Question, I'm looking at the Rheingold site here http://rheingoldusa.com/conc/index.php/store
what option is best to use? Even in the SW downloads there are 4 different versions..

Thanks again..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You are getting good advice and are on the right path... one comment: by 'current' I didn't mean "what they just read'

All codes, new, old, two years old, will all stay stored in memory- until you read them. Then they all appear. By clearing and driving until a CEL comes on you figure out which from that first batch were old and which are "current". Thats what I meant by current,

Report back- GL
@ard Thanks again for the reply.

I completely understand what you are saying now. I believe the ones that I mentioned as checked 4C09, 4C0E, 4C83 & 48DC were the most current ones. I need to verify with the tech. Once again I wish I was home when this happened but will be there tomorrow..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Few long trips will just postpone EGR issue a bit. I got a car with 34,900 miles and I think it was driven like your wife drives the one you have. I drive mostly HWY< reline engine all the time, push hard, but EGR issue showed up because once soot is build up, it will stay there.
If EGR is issue, and you cannot change driving habits, try to use top tier diesel, Shell, Chevron etc.
@edycol thanks for the reply. That makes sense I got her the car at 52,000 and she just turned 100,000 and some change. Really no problems until now and I would have thought it would have showed up sooner. Good point on the top teir gas we are in a rural county in NC but I mostly have her going to the Speedway which are pretty plentiful around here. Does using any additives help at all?

Thanks again
 

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@edycol thanks for the reply. That makes sense I got her the car at 52,000 and she just turned 100,000 and some change. Really no problems until now and I would have thought it would have showed up sooner. Good point on the top teir gas we are in a rural county in NC but I mostly have her going to the Speedway which are pretty plentiful around here. Does using any additives help at all?

Thanks again
Stay away from additives! Since Speedway is your option (when I lived in AL and drove through NC I actually avoided them) I would make sure I give a car proper "exercise" once a week. I would find nice rural road where you can push it hard or take X5 on longer trips when you going somewhere. Also, maybe every 20K you can take down EGR and cleaned it.
Are you doing your own changes? Stick to oil like M1 5W30 ESP that has very low level of sulfated ash.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Stay away from additives! Since Speedway is your option (when I lived in AL and drove through NC I actually avoided them) I would make sure I give a car proper "exercise" once a week. I would find nice rural road where you can push it hard or take X5 on longer trips when you going somewhere. Also, maybe every 20K you can take down EGR and cleaned it.
Are you doing your own changes? Stick to oil like M1 5W30 ESP that has very low level of sulfated ash.
Copy that thanks for the advice. I will certainly get it out on the road more and cleaning the EGR makes sense. I do the oil most of the time. I currently have to replace the Oli level sensor on the next change out and plan to do that....
 

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^ This with a quick update.

I finally got the X5 out of the shop. After several conversations with the dealer and them insisting that it was probably going to be a 5,000 plus repair, I decided to give my local shop a go at it. They had just received a new diagnostic machine that would allow them to do anything a dealer could, code parts, etc... They were not worried about fixing it but felt it may take them awhile while they worked through troubleshooting and working with the new diagnostic gear.

So after three weeks and about 10-12 shop hours here is what the shop did

Cleaned EGR and MAF Sensors
Replaced Exhaust Pressure Sensor (13627808013LBMW)
Replaced Fule Injection Pressure Sensor (13627792260LBMW
Added some DEF

The shop took the hours down to 5.5, so the total with parts taxes est ran me 973.25

I'm attaching the Code read out from the bill in case it helps someone else

Thanks for the replies and advice she is running great right now!:thumbup::thumbup:
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 98K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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See if you can fine out what tests and more tests were done and why.
 

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See if you can fine out what tests and more tests were done and why.
I will talk to the shop on Monday. My wife talked to them yesterday and picked up the car as I was busy at work.
 
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