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Discussion Starter #1
X5 has about 130k miles.

The last time I drove the X5 a few days ago it drove just fine. I hopped in it today and it won't start with the key in the ignition or the comfort access key inside the car. Everything turns on including the radio, A/C, lights. I turned all the auxiliary stuff off and car still wont start. When I hold down the ignition button there is an audible click coming from the engine bay but no attempt to start, just a single loud click. I scanned with Carly and got a bunch of electrical faults.

I tried to jump with the wife's 2017 440i and the X5 did the same things.

I went to a nearby BMW dealership and bought a new battery. Before installing the new battery I removed the existing battery and took it to O'Reilly Autoparts for a bench test. O'Reilly calls me back 10 minutes later says battery wont hold a charge. Sweet, I install the new battery and exact behavior. I assume O'Reilly doesn't know sh*t and the issue isn't the battery. I've read it could be an issue with the CAS system.

I've recently replaced both batteries in my fobs but they've been working fine for a couple months. I've also recently purchased my wife a 2017 BMW 440i that sits next to my X5, maybe some kind of interference? I tried both X5 keys and same result. It seems there might be a CAS fuse that goes bad? Any thoughts would be appreciated. I plan on hooking the X5 up to DIS tomorrow and see if I can find anything more helpful than the electric faults Carly told me about. I hear the fuel pump prime the engine and I think I also hear the air compressor fill up the rear bags when I get in the car. It seems like everything is working, the car just won't start.

Let me know if anyone would like further info, I could take a video.

Thanks in advance for your help!
 

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. I've also recently purchased my wife a 2017 BMW 440i that sits next to my X5, maybe some kind of interference?
Jealousy, for sure.

But seriously... what 'electrical faults' did carly give you? Ive seen low voltage sitautions result in the loss of sync in the EWS anti sync system. I also wonder about IBS issues, if it is hosed then a jump, a charge or a new battery might not help.

I suppose checking all fuses is easy enough, but doest feel like that. Just a wag.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The 440 is fun and I've been drooling over cool stuff to do to that B58. Its still under 50k miles and has another year of CPO but I kinda wanna just yeet BootMod3 and a less restrictive downpipe on there but I digress..

The issues from Carly are all "The fault results from a generic communication issue on the ECU: Body Domain Controller (Internal GR92)." To me it seems like a starter issue. I referred to DIS earlier but I think Rheingold is the software I have setup and installed. I tried to run some CAS resets but nothing helped. I ordered a starter from FCP Euro for $140 + $28 in shipping, seems easy enough to throw in there.

Before the car wouldn't start at all it would not start and then after a couple attempts start right up. It never sounded like a Ford with a battery issue where it clicks 40x and then nothing but it would do the one loud click and nothing would happen, I'd shut the ignition off and retry and it would usually start up after that. That had happened a hand full of times over the last 6 months but I attributed it to jumping in the X5 too fast before the car could register I had the key in my pocket.

If anyone is knowledgeable with Rheingold I'd be happy to run a service plan. I just haven't used the software since replaced the transmission fluid and filter and xfer case fluid so I am not familiar with the functions I might be able to run on the ignition or other electronic parts.

Here is some dudes saying a fuse might fix the issue:
I don't know if the one "click" I hear counts as a crank or not. I will probably check all the fuses tomorrow when it's lighter out and I haven't had a few brewskies.
 

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The 440 is fun and I've been drooling over cool stuff to do to that B58. Its still under 50k miles and has another year of CPO but I kinda wanna just yeet BootMod3 and a less restrictive downpipe on there but I digress..

The issues from Carly are all "The fault results from a generic communication issue on the ECU: Body Domain Controller (Internal GR92)." To me it seems like a starter issue. I referred to DIS earlier but I think Rheingold is the software I have setup and installed. I tried to run some CAS resets but nothing helped. I ordered a starter from FCP Euro for $140 + $28 in shipping, seems easy enough to throw in there.

Before the car wouldn't start at all it would not start and then after a couple attempts start right up. It never sounded like a Ford with a battery issue where it clicks 40x and then nothing but it would do the one loud click and nothing would happen, I'd shut the ignition off and retry and it would usually start up after that. That had happened a hand full of times over the last 6 months but I attributed it to jumping in the X5 too fast before the car could register I had the key in my pocket.

If anyone is knowledgeable with Rheingold I'd be happy to run a service plan. I just haven't used the software since replaced the transmission fluid and filter and xfer case fluid so I am not familiar with the functions I might be able to run on the ignition or other electronic parts.

Here is some dudes saying a fuse might fix the issue:
I don't know if the one "click" I hear counts as a crank or not. I will probably check all the fuses tomorrow when it's lighter out and I haven't had a few brewskies.
What you describe in the bolded part appears to be the symptom of a bad starter or ground strap - these are known to fail. Have you removed the air filter box and looked down there where the starter is? Takes a few minutes and gives you a good idea of where the issue may be.

My starter went dead at the beginning of 2020 and while I thought it had been an all of a sudden thing, it actually was gradual and started as you describe, with maybe 1 year in total to degrade, possibly more.


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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
It seems like a starter issue so I've started the process of removing and replacing the starter. New starter gets here from FCP Euro on Tuesday but if I get to it earlier I have one from O'Reilly. I'll report back on success or failure. I need to do a bit more research on replacing the starter as it seems there might be a hard to get to bolt.
 

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We've seen some ground strap failures that might match your symptoms. Just a wag.

Clip a single cable from the under hood ground stud over to the engine. See if that helps. 5 min, cost $0.
 

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Sounds like bad ground strap, relay or the starter. The one click that you hear might be the starter actuator moves, but fails to power the starter motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
We've seen some ground strap failures that might match your symptoms. Just a wag.

Clip a single cable from the under hood ground stud over to the engine. See if that helps. 5 min, cost $0.
Hey Ard,

Where on the engine would I connect a cable to? Do you have a video I could reference?

It turns out a Windows Update had messed up the latency on the COM port I use to connect my laptop to the car so Rheingold wasn't operating correctly. I was able to fix the latency and re-run diagnostics and pulled the following code. A0C1: CAS: Output, terminal 50. I googled that and am finding some videos on a connection between the battery and starter cable being separated. I am going to look into that this evening.

 

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really? Open the hood, look at the motor. Find metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If it was a grounding issue, wouldn't the car have started when I tried to jump it? I can see my ground strap and it is a bit green but it doesn't look frayed or worn. When I jumped I had positive connected to the X5 engine positive under the hood, X5 negative grounded to the chassis, 440 positive connected under the hood and negative grounded to the chassis. I am making my jump configuration clear because I never know how to jump these cars with their remote positive terminals and lack of a negative terminal but I think I was jumping it correctly...
 

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Likely not
Rational being that all of the systems necessary for engine operation will need to be lit.

Remove / clean / reinstall the ground, see if that helps. If not also test via a jumper between engine and grounding post (easy and free todo).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sounds good, I pre-emptively started taking things apart to get to the starter but haven't removed the intake yet so I'll reconnect everything and try to ground from chassis to engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So I reconnected the air filter and vacuum lines and battery and connected my negative jumper cable to the chassis mounting point and the other end of the black jumper cable to the Oil Filter Housing and same behavior. There isn't a whole lot of metal to connect to on top the N55. Would I have created a proper ground with that setup?
 

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isnt there agroud post on one of the shock towers under your hood? The oil filter housing is on rubber isolation bushes as I recall....and isnt ON the engine. right hand side below:

 

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Discussion Starter #16
So no dice on this? None of the images are loading up for me on my work laptop or phone from the link you posted.
1012963
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I borrowed a neighbors multimeter and can read 12v between positive and negative on battery, 12v between positive under hood and bolt I've been grounding to, and 12v between positive under hood and the OFH so I think the ground from bolt to OFH should have worked. After work I will try to get the multimeter to the hot end of the starter and have the wife crank it. Also none of these were exactly 12V but basically between 11.5 and 12 everywhere.
 

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The problem with the strap failure is that it isn’t linear nor ‘binary’.... it may have enough conductivity to hit 12V, or turn on lights, or even engage the solenoid...but when it needs current, the little fine wires in the mesh of wires and green crud cannot provide it and it fails

But it looks like you’ve ruled that out...a alternator mounting bolt, AC comp bolt, etc etc should be a good engine ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The problem with the strap failure is that it isn’t linear nor ‘binary’.... it may have enough conductivity to hit 12V, or turn on lights, or even engage the solenoid...but when it needs current, the little fine wires in the mesh of wires and green crud cannot provide it and it fails

But it looks like you’ve ruled that out...a alternator mounting bolt, AC comp bolt, etc etc should be a good engine ground.

Yah I did my best to rule everything out. I am starting down the route of replacing the starter. I've almost got the intake manifold out but I'm taking my time as I have nowhere to be. I'll report back once I get the new starter in, it may be a few days.

Thanks for your help and suggestions thus far!
 

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Intake manifold isn’t as daunting as most describe, and more importantly - you may be able to get to it for what you need this time (test) without removing the intake... I’d give it a shot.

Maybe try a light tap on the starter with a plastic mallet?


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