That is a lot of electrical faults, along with others. The battery is a very good place to start, as it effects the complete electrical system. Turn your headlights on, to on the ignition without cranking the engine, & measure the voltage at the jump terminal under the hood. If the battery is below 12 volts, your battery needs charging, or replacing. It also seems that you have PDC errors from either a bad sensor, or a damaged wiring harness on one of the bumper covers. It also looks like you might have changed wheels to an improper size, or your sensors need to be initialized.

 

Thanks for the help, I tested the car this evening and with the car on engine off lights on I was getting 11.5v. Is this low enough to indicate a battery issue?

 

That is low enough to cause a bunch of electrical problems. Try charging the battery overnight, & clear the codes. If the codes continue, the battery could be going bad. How old is the battery?

 

The battery is probably same age as car as it***8217;s still looks original, I***8217;ve only had the car for 2 years, I was looking at some YouTube vids last night to which jogged my memory about issues I***8217;ve had prior to all these faults, the car would warn me of excessive Battery discharge etc and one of my rear door soft closes was constantly trying to operate despite door being closed.

 

The battery is probably same age as car as it's still looks original, I've only had the car for 2 years, I was looking at some YouTube vids last night to which jogged my memory about issues I've had prior to all these faults, the car would warn me of excessive Battery discharge etc and one of my rear door soft closes was constantly trying to operate despite door being closed.

A bad door handle for the Comfort Access will drain a battery in a matter of 2 days. If your soft close latch is not shutting the door all of the way closed, simply slam the door. If the door is not pulled all of the way in with the soft close motor, the interior lights will stay on & drain the battery. If your battery is a 2012 battery, it sounds like it is due to be changed. Try charging it overnight to see if things get better.

 

Thanks for your help so far!! So
I***8217;ve decided to change the battery this evening, but I***8217;ve noticed some white tube coming out of the battery??? Any ideas, the new battery I have purchased hasn***8217;t got a preformed moulding on the side to enable me to re fit when changed over

 

Thanks for your help so far!! So
I've decided to change the battery this evening, but I've noticed some white tube coming out of the battery??? Any ideas, the new battery I have purchased hasn't got a preformed moulding on the side to enable me to re fit when changed over

What kind of battery did you purchase, it should have a vent hole on the side of it? You will also need to register the battery to the car, for the battery & other items to perform correctly. The seat belt restraint fault will need to be cleared in the DME module. You might need to have someone with ISTA to do this?

 

That's a vent pipe for the battery. Your new battery should have a little hole where the pipe needs to be inserted.

 

Hi Im new here can some one help with multiple faults come up on my 2012 750Li

I have hopefully attached the PDF with the fault codes. some people are stating that it is a Low battery fault but the CAR is currently flashing up with the following

Steering, Chassis, collision, seatbelt restraint, drive train.

the report from putting the computer on has pulled up DME and DME2 faults

I have tried disconnecting the battery from the live side for 20 mins and has made no difference. the faults will not clear on the computer either.

Many thanks Nick

Hold off on the battery, in the report I see there is no communication with the DSC module. Check the fuse (behind the glove box), if it is blown then one of the door handles are shorted (CA).

The door handle power supply is shared with the DSC control unit, when the fuse blows you will get the same faults that are present.

You can disconnect the handles one by one.

Mark.

 

Hi Nick
Had kinda the same problem. Confort acces is working ? If not, try to change the fuse no2 (5amps). It solved all the other problems for me.

 

Thanks all for your responses, but I didn***8217;t see them until now! I took my car to BMW Sunday and they contacted me today to state the DSC is not working, they can***8217;t confirm what***8217;s broken about it but want £3330 to replace, I will speak to them
about checking the fuse, but surely they should know this?

 

Thinking about it, I don***8217;t think my comfort access has ever worked since I***8217;ve owned the car. I did have a an issue with the soft close door in the rear constantly searching/engaging

 

Thinking about it, I don't think my comfort access has ever worked since I've owned the car. I did have a an issue with the soft close door in the rear constantly searching/engaging

This would not throw a code, but with the entry interior lights on due to a partially unlocked door, this would help drain the battery. The CA would be the door handles, but surely some of them would work, unless the fuse is blown.

 

The fuse for the comfort access door handles shares a fuse for the DSC module im pretty sure. check fuse previously mentioned. if its blown plug er back in and let it sit for a half hour and feel the door handles i bet one of the handles is shorted and causing your dsc issue as well. ive seen it a lot in the 5 series vehicles

 

Here's a fuse diagram. When #2 blows it often throws many codes and lights on the dash as well. My dash looked like a christmas tree with numerous lights on and a 50 cent fuse fixed it.

 

Since you have a new battery & the car is at the dealer, have them register the battery & delete all of the codes, This will not cost anything since the are going to charge you a service fee also. This will help narrow down where the problems are. I would also ask for a before & after printout. If you have the Autel Maxi, you can clear the codes with it & run some diagnostics on the modules.

 

Its now Fixed

Morning All

Firstly I would like to say a massive thanks for all your help and Advice, it ended up being the comfort access on the drivers side being in fault to which in turn was causing the fuse to blow

I am going to provide a series of events as I feel people need to be aware of how wrong BMW have tried to diagnose my car! To which could have cost me thousands!

BMW started running diagnostics on my car Monday, and confirmed back to me that the DSC unit was at fault. They quoted £3360 to replace. My warranty company wanted me to approve a £550 payment for BMW to remove the DSC and send of for testing.

I asked BMW to send me the print out of the fault and I could clearly see the communication error to the DSC was still present, with all of your help above, I questioned if BMW engineers had checked the common fuse 2 in the glove compartment.

BMW have spent the past 2 days carrying further diagnostics on the car, only to confirm last night that it was in fact the fuse blowing due to the faulty comfort access causing the issue and multiple faults.

The good news is, is that all of the additional fault finding and diagnostics that was carried out on the car was still covered under the original £120 fee!!

I would say I was very lucky to have access to all of your knowledge but yet there must be lots of people that may have not been so lucky and potentially had to pay out for parts and work that's not even required. How could BMW get this so wrong and not already know about this what seems a relatively common issue.

Again a Massive thanks to you all for your help with the matter.

Nick

 

Glad you worked it out. It seems to me that the dealer usually trusts the diagnostics software and don't physically look at what might cause the errors. They quoted me $1500 dollars for a faulty suspension control module, when in fact it was a broken connector. Glad I've noticed it before I let them replace the unit.

 

Glad you helped them find the problem, they should have refunded you the money since they wanted to take so much money for the repair.

 

Dear All
I would just like to tell you all how much I love you. Same fault, ran to replace the battery, then ran multi-meter tests and just spent all this time stressing.
Found this post, and bingo, Fuse 2 5amp replaced and working. I swapped this for an LED marker fuse, so it blows in the future, I can just quickly check in the glove box to see if its glowing. Whilst this has removed 103 faults from my Carly, it has left two that are a concern, that I will follow up with. Alternator Missing and Rear Drivers Door Handle (Comfort Access).