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Hey guys I have 2012 35d that Im thinking of tuning it currently has 65k miles mostly highway. Is there any mechanical disadvantages of doing a tune with this many miles? Would it be recommended to change all my fluids before?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I do all my schedule services 2-3k miles before they are due and I use Diesel Kleen or Seafoam once a month when I fill up.
 

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I tried a chip tune, no go, instant check engine lights, impossible emissions resets, surrendered. The service cycle reset for CEL is impossible, took the dealership a week + 450 miles on my vehicle, no thank you sir.
 

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I tried a chip tune, no go, instant check engine lights, impossible emissions resets, surrendered. The service cycle reset for CEL is impossible, took the dealership a week + 450 miles on my vehicle, no thank you sir.
Could've been the tune you used?
 

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Hey guys I have 2012 35d that Im thinking of tuning it currently has 65k miles mostly highway. Is there any mechanical disadvantages of doing a tune with this many miles? Would it be recommended to change all my fluids before?
At 65k miles, you've got an X5 that's still in it's prime if it has been maintained and driven normally. Mechanically, a tune will exert more stress to the engine and driveline, but if you use reputable tuners, you should be fine. Will you do a ECU tune or a piggy-back? I would recommend an ECU tune. Which tune are you thinking of using?

Yes, I would change transmission and differential/transfer case fluids at 65k, regardless of tuning or not. I do mine every 50k.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
At 65k miles, you've got an X5 that's still in it's prime if it has been maintained and driven normally. Mechanically, a tune will exert more stress to the engine and driveline, but if you use reputable tuners, you should be fine. Will you do a ECU tune or a piggy-back? I would recommend an ECU tune. Which tune are you thinking of using?

Yes, I would change transmission and differential/transfer case fluids at 65k, regardless of tuning or not. I do mine every 50k.
In thinking of getting the Race Chip till I save up to do a full tune and delete kit from AArodriguez
 

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Just go to a respected/known tuner. Ask for fuel efficient tuning and drive normally as you always did then nothing to worry about.


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65k miles is not considered high miles at all, especially since those miles are mostly highway miles and are the best kind of miles to put on any car. The engine won't be finished breaking in until around 100k miles and that assumes the car has regularly been driven like it was stolen and not babied and/or used exclusively for short trips.

OK so then what would be considered high miles? I'm only at 137k miles on my CPO'd 2012 X5 35d and it's still too early to tell. :) :thumbup: Mine is bone stock and I'm not planning any tunes or deletes any time soon.

Good luck. :)
 

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65k miles is not considered high miles at all, especially since those miles are mostly highway miles and are the best kind of miles to put on any car. The engine won't be finished breaking in until around 100k miles and that assumes the car has regularly been driven like it was stolen and not babied and/or used exclusively for short trips.

OK so then what would be considered high miles? I'm only at 137k miles on my CPO'd 2012 X5 35d and it's still too early to tell. :) :thumbup: Mine is bone stock and I'm not planning any tunes or deletes any time soon.

Good luck. :)
This my first diesel so I don't know how long they last. I don't baby it, if I'm stuck in traffic I'll usually try to keep it above 2k rpms. Wow 137k.. Have you done a cbu clean up?
 

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I would define it as 10 miles or less, never getting into 6th gear - which happens at 48 mph.
I'm "only" at 113K with bone stock engine.
I do a few of those, I live in socal so there's traffic most of the time, I try to keep my rpms above 2k when I can.
 

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02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 100K miles NOKIAN WR G3 20K miles
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I live on a 25 square mile Island that is (usually) frozen from November to April, and sub-zero January and February. My 35d seldom gets to NOT. It has not yet (18 months) had problems.

A typical driving cycle is 30 seconds at moderate throttle in DS to a straight half-mile hard acceleration to 45 mph/60 kph to a stop. Then errands in MANUAL shifting to >2K rpm. Usually not much more than 10 miles. In the dead of winter I try to do an hour of hard acceleration to maximum speed limit, 45 mph and then maintain => 2k at least once per tank. Fuel mileage stabilized ~19 mpg this past winter.
 

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I do a few of those, I live in socal so there's traffic most of the time, I try to keep my rpms above 2k when I can.
You wouldnt drive around in a 7k RPM engine trying to keep RPM above 3k all the time, so why would you drive around in a 4750 RPM engine trying to keep RPM above 2k? If keeping the engine over 2k rpm was preferrable BMW wouldnt have selected a transmission that cruises 70 at 1800 rpm...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You wouldnt drive around in a 7k RPM engine trying to keep RPM above 3k all the time, so why would you drive around in a 4750 RPM engine trying to keep RPM above 2k? If keeping the engine over 2k rpm was preferrable BMW wouldnt have selected a transmission that cruises 70 at 1800 rpm...
How is that different from me being at 2300k when I'm doing 80 on the freeway?
 

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You dont have to worry about it. On petrol cars, if car are below 150KM you can safely tune to Stage 1 without any hardware mods or change oil type.


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02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 100K miles NOKIAN WR G3 20K miles
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You wouldnt drive around in a 7k RPM engine trying to keep RPM above 3k all the time, so why would you drive around in a 4750 RPM engine trying to keep RPM above 2k? If keeping the engine over 2k rpm was preferrable BMW wouldnt have selected a transmission that cruises 70 at 1800 rpm...
Read the criteria for DPF regeneration.

I had a 7000 rpm redline engine that I frequently drove at 7K and frequently buried the tach at 10K.
 
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