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can anyone recommend a good shop in downtown Toronto to get a brake fluid change on my 2013 X5?
 

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can anyone recommend a good shop in downtown Toronto to get a brake fluid change on my 2013 X5?


Easy DIY thing.
Get Schwaben or similar vacuum pump. I usually buy more than a liter of DOT4. Get ATE TYP200 fluid. It is super easy job that will take maybe two hours considering you have to take off tires, put them back. Unless, you have really good access from below, but still it will be hard.


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With a 6mm ID clear tubing (2 ft long), an 11mm wrench, and one liter DOT 4 low viscosity brake fluid, you can do this yourself in less than an hour.
Easy DIY thing.
Get Schwaben or similar vacuum pump. I usually buy more than a liter of DOT4. Get ATE TYP200 fluid. It is super easy job that will take maybe two hours considering you have to take off tires, put them back. Unless, you have really good access from below, but still it will be hard.


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Counterpoint to DIY for brake fluid change:
1. You have to lift each corner and manhandle each wheel. That's a workout that not everyone can do given the weight of each wheel and tire for the X5, as well as time consuming.
2. Potential for spilling brake fluid which is corrosive stuff.
3. The old fluid has to be properly recycled and unlike oil, there are limited options as to locations that will accept old brake fluid. Taking it to a recycling center is another time consuming element.

I pick my DIY battles, and based on number 3 alone brake fluid change is a job that I gladly pay $120 to have done.
 

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02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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Brake / hydraulic fluid is ‘corrosive’ paint.

Brake / hydraulic fluid is ‘corrosive’ to paint but not to metals. The basic stuff of brake fluid is not corrosive and neither are its additives.

Components

Castor oil-based (pre-DOT, DOT 2)
Castor oil
Alcohol, usually butanol (red / crimson fluid) or ethanol (yellow fluid) (methanol)
Glycol-based (DOT 3, 4, 5.1)
Alkyl ester
Aliphatic amine
Diethylene glycol
Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether
Diethylene glycol monomethyl ether
Dimethyl dipropylene glycol
Polyethylene glycol monobutyl ether
Polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether
Polyethylene oxide
Triethylene glycol monobutyl ether
Triethylene glycol monoethyl ether
Triethylene glycol monomethyl ether
Silicone-based (DOT 5)
Di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate
Dimethyl polysiloxane (I happen to be particularly familiar with the physical properties of PDMS, here it is used as an anti-foaming agent)
Tributyl phosphate
 

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Counterpoint to DIY for brake fluid change:
1. You have to lift each corner and manhandle each wheel. That's a workout that not everyone can do given the weight of each wheel and tire for the X5, as well as time consuming.
2. Potential for spilling brake fluid which is corrosive stuff.
3. The old fluid has to be properly recycled and unlike oil, there are limited options as to locations that will accept old brake fluid. Taking it to a recycling center is another time consuming element.

I pick my DIY battles, and based on number 3 alone brake fluid change is a job that I gladly pay $120 to have done.
On the X5 I don't lift the wheels. you can get under the back wheels easily. The front wheels, I turn to the side to make it easier.

The only thing to be wary of is an older hose on the Motive Bleeder bursting. Happened to me. Sprayed brake fluid all over the car. I immediately drove it out of the garage and hosed it down for 10 minutes. No visible damage to the paint, even in the well where the master cylinder lives.

Brake fluid is essentially alcohol. You can leave it open and it will evaporate. Or I just keep it until I'm going to the main recycling center.
 

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The only thing to be wary of is an older hose on the Motive Bleeder bursting. Happened to me. Sprayed brake fluid all over the car.
Same happened to me about 15 years ago while working on the 91 318is daily driver. The bleeder has been taking up shelf space and gathering dust ever since.

Brake / hydraulic fluid is ‘corrosive’ to paint but not to metals.
I know... The risk of damaging my own paint is enough of a deterrent; see prior mishap above. Just sucking the stuff out of the reservoir when pushing out the caliper piston during a brake pad change makes me nervous.
 

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Same happened to me about 15 years ago while working on the 91 318is daily driver. The bleeder has been taking up shelf space and gathering dust ever since.



I know... The risk of damaging my own paint is enough of a deterrent; see prior mishap above. Just sucking the stuff out of the reservoir when pushing out the caliper piston during a brake pad change makes me nervous.
I didn't remove the wheels either. I put the front wheels on ramps to access the bleeding nipples, and had no problem getting to the rear ones on the ground. I only used the brake pedal to push out the fluid for each line without difficulties. Place an object underneath the brake pedal to prevent it from going too far to the floor. That was it. I pushed the brake pedal roughly for 18, 15, 12, and 9 times for RR, RL, FR, and FL nipples while keeping the fluid in the reservoir above the "MIN" line. Really a simple process. Not a chance for spills.
 

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My Indy charges $90 for this service. A good price for an every two year service. I would price it around your area.
 

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can anyone recommend a good shop in downtown Toronto to get a brake fluid change on my 2013 X5?
Looks like OP left the house but this post from another thread might help the next person who searches for a shop recommendation in the Toronto area.

Thanks to everyone, who pitched in, even those who critiqued my technical skills; I truly appreciate hearing all of your feedback! Yes, the issue turned out to be a worn out ground strap.

I highly recommend to those in the Greater Toronto Area (GTA) this gentleman, who went out of his way to assist me over the holidays and got my baby up and running again this week:

Mark Earle
Autobahn East
717-12 Finley Avenue
Ajax, Ontario L1S 3T1
www.autobahneast.ca
Certified Independent BMW MINI Specialist
p 905 686-2700 f 905 239-2701

Happy New Year!!!
 
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