Thanks. Glad to know it probably isn't my transfer case!
I do have a throttle remapped, which helps, and a Racechip, which also helps. But best is sport mode throttle or throttle reset. I wish I could code the throttle not to adapt!
2014 328d
Just purchased a used 2014 BMW 328d. Has 115K miles on it. Was one owner that drove a lot of highway miles for his job. The owner purchased the 100K full manufacturer extended warranty and the vehicle appears very well maintained. I got the car for a song which is why I jumped on the chance to own a diesel 328 that gets 42 mpg highway that originally cost $42K for about 75% off...the only drawback are the amount of miles and the fact this is out of warranty so any problems will be on me. Reaching out to see if there are any other 328d owners out there. What has been your experience. Should I expect another 115K miles out of the Bimmer? What have been the major mechanical issues you have experienced as an owner or over 100K miles on your 328d? Thanks!:thumbup:
21 - 40 of 56 Posts
I do have a throttle remapped, which helps, and a Racechip, which also helps. But best is sport mode throttle or throttle reset. I wish I could code the throttle not to adapt!
Would you mind adding your info to the Transfer Cases Failure Database? I started a line for you.Welcome! I have a 2014 328d. I love it. 66,000 miles. I bought it new in late 2013.
I did need the transfer case replaced twice. I would get hesitation that was linked to the transfer case. No issues since the replacement about $20k ago. I think this was rare though.
I had a 2014 328dX, traded in April with 62K miles (for a 540dX). I loved the car, but had issues:
(1) Transfer case failure (word is they have some cheap plastic part prone to failure)
(2) Drive shaft bearing failure (kinda like a u joint, but only came as a whole unit).
(3) Failure of 3 of 4 of the fuel injectors (CEL diagnoses to this) at separate times - wonder if I got some crappy fuel, be careful of this ... there are some threads on what to look for.
Two of the injectors were covered, others were ouch. I was getting nervous running without warranty, but stuck with BMW diesel for my new ride because I like them so much. My sense is the core engine is solid (that timing chain issue was news to me) but the fuel and exhaust systems have some challenges (perhaps associated with meeting emissions?) but I’m not sure.
I wish you many miles of trouble free cruise!
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(1) Transfer case failure (word is they have some cheap plastic part prone to failure)
(2) Drive shaft bearing failure (kinda like a u joint, but only came as a whole unit).
(3) Failure of 3 of 4 of the fuel injectors (CEL diagnoses to this) at separate times - wonder if I got some crappy fuel, be careful of this ... there are some threads on what to look for.
Two of the injectors were covered, others were ouch. I was getting nervous running without warranty, but stuck with BMW diesel for my new ride because I like them so much. My sense is the core engine is solid (that timing chain issue was news to me) but the fuel and exhaust systems have some challenges (perhaps associated with meeting emissions?) but I’m not sure.
I wish you many miles of trouble free cruise!
Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest
1) The issue with the transfer cases has been the output flange teeth wearing down/stripping. This is a metal part, no plastic at all. Stories I've heard have been that the heat treatment wasn't done correctly or spec'd well. Most of the failures are 2014 cars. Very few 2015+ recorded on the forums/my database.I had a 2014 328dX, traded in April with 62K miles (for a 540dX). I loved the car, but had issues:
(1) Transfer case failure (word is they have some cheap plastic part prone to failure)
(2) Drive shaft bearing failure (kinda like a u joint, but only came as a whole unit).
(3) Failure of 3 of 4 of the fuel injectors (CEL diagnoses to this) at separate times - wonder if I got some crappy fuel, be careful of this ... there are some threads on what to look for.
Two of the injectors were covered, others were ouch. I was getting nervous running without warranty, but stuck with BMW diesel for my new ride because I like them so much. My sense is the core engine is solid (that timing chain issue was news to me) but the fuel and exhaust systems have some challenges (perhaps associated with meeting emissions?) but I***8217;m not sure.
I wish you many miles of trouble free cruise!
Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest
3) I've had two injectors go so far in 32k miles. First one was under normal driving use, second one was after I started tracking the car.
Can you add yourself to the transfer case failure database posted a few posts above too?
Great thread!
I switched from an old e39 (2001) to a 2014 328d (45k miles) in January AND just moved to Orlando 2 weeks ago! Let's stay in touch on mechanics and service centers in the area. I'm located in the SE corner (Lake Nona).
One item that I found so far is that because I have the Msport option, some of my parts are unique to my car only. Found out the hard way when a rock went through my AC condenser and the only part I could find was from the dealer at $650.
The diesel X-drive models dominate and there seem to be very few 328d RWD models out there on the road. Parts are fairly hard to find, so check around different sites if you need minor parts (like underbody plastic panels).
So far the car has been fairly good with great mileage. And luckily diesel is cheaper here than in the Midwest.
Thanks to everyone for posting all the different issues to look for. I'm approaching 60k miles now (I bought the diesel in Ohio because I had a long commute) and need to look into brakes, filters, and a possible transmission flush.
Right now I'm in a desperate need for a Navigation update as the roads here are constantly under construction and the previous owner never updated (I'm on NEXT 2013-1). I'm considering getting the code from BMW because it seems to be the same pricing as the other guys. The threads on this topic are a bit all over and none seem to have links to where they got the maps. (I guess I'll keep plugging away).
I switched from an old e39 (2001) to a 2014 328d (45k miles) in January AND just moved to Orlando 2 weeks ago! Let's stay in touch on mechanics and service centers in the area. I'm located in the SE corner (Lake Nona).
One item that I found so far is that because I have the Msport option, some of my parts are unique to my car only. Found out the hard way when a rock went through my AC condenser and the only part I could find was from the dealer at $650.
The diesel X-drive models dominate and there seem to be very few 328d RWD models out there on the road. Parts are fairly hard to find, so check around different sites if you need minor parts (like underbody plastic panels).
So far the car has been fairly good with great mileage. And luckily diesel is cheaper here than in the Midwest.
Thanks to everyone for posting all the different issues to look for. I'm approaching 60k miles now (I bought the diesel in Ohio because I had a long commute) and need to look into brakes, filters, and a possible transmission flush.
Right now I'm in a desperate need for a Navigation update as the roads here are constantly under construction and the previous owner never updated (I'm on NEXT 2013-1). I'm considering getting the code from BMW because it seems to be the same pricing as the other guys. The threads on this topic are a bit all over and none seem to have links to where they got the maps. (I guess I'll keep plugging away).
Watch out for the "Stealer" in ORL
Before taking your precious Bimmer to any of the "Fields BMW" locations I suggest you look at the reviews, BBB comments and talk to others in the community about them. I refuse to take ANY of my vehicles back to them - I actually drive ALL the way to Ocala, FL to get my service. They damaged my 335Ih TWICE and tried to cover it up. I wish I were making this up. The crushed the drivers door on the lift then after they fixed while still onsite in their Repair facility that they smashed my rear bumper and tried to deny it. Every small service item I brought to them (covered under warranty) came back with 3 new things broken. This was after the same vehicle was returned to them over 12 times to repair endless items they broke. I even had to call BMW headquarter in NJ to get things resolved. Not just my experience I have numerous coworkers that took their Bimmers there for service and experienced same thing. One had her brand new Bimmer wrecked going through their courtesy car wash. Another had electrical problems after getting service from them. They are just a volume facility that is careless and since they own this central Florida market they know you have no other choice. There are independently owned BMW Repair centers (Master Certified Tech that left Fields and opened their own facility) all around ORL that do a far better job and cost way less - glad to share those references with you. Cheers and Welcome to CFL!
Before taking your precious Bimmer to any of the "Fields BMW" locations I suggest you look at the reviews, BBB comments and talk to others in the community about them. I refuse to take ANY of my vehicles back to them - I actually drive ALL the way to Ocala, FL to get my service. They damaged my 335Ih TWICE and tried to cover it up. I wish I were making this up. The crushed the drivers door on the lift then after they fixed while still onsite in their Repair facility that they smashed my rear bumper and tried to deny it. Every small service item I brought to them (covered under warranty) came back with 3 new things broken. This was after the same vehicle was returned to them over 12 times to repair endless items they broke. I even had to call BMW headquarter in NJ to get things resolved. Not just my experience I have numerous coworkers that took their Bimmers there for service and experienced same thing. One had her brand new Bimmer wrecked going through their courtesy car wash. Another had electrical problems after getting service from them. They are just a volume facility that is careless and since they own this central Florida market they know you have no other choice. There are independently owned BMW Repair centers (Master Certified Tech that left Fields and opened their own facility) all around ORL that do a far better job and cost way less - glad to share those references with you. Cheers and Welcome to CFL!
I tried on my iPhone - could read but not write to it. Will give it a shot tonight on my home computer.....
Can you add yourself to the transfer case failure database posted a few posts above too?
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You'll probably want to have the transmission fluid/filter/pan replaced soon. ZF recommends this at 100k km (62k mi).Thanks to everyone for posting all the different issues to look for. I'm approaching 60k miles now
So just to make sure I've got you correct. It's not just the fluid and filter change? BMW actually recommends you change the transmission oil pan also?You'll probably want to have the transmission fluid/filter/pan replaced soon. ZF recommends this at 100k km (62k mi).
I've seen that someone else did it through an indy for just under $600. But wow, I'm not looking forward to finding someone to do it.
https://www.codemybimmer.ca/product/2017bmw-map-update/?v=7516fd43adaaRight now I'm in a desperate need for a Navigation update as the roads here are constantly under construction and the previous owner never updated (I'm on NEXT 2013-1). I'm considering getting the code from BMW because it seems to be the same pricing as the other guys. The threads on this topic are a bit all over and none seem to have links to where they got the maps. (I guess I'll keep plugging away).
use coupon code "Bimmerpost", Not bad deal for $36.00
Yeah, the pan has to be changed too. The filter is built in. There are lots of write ups and videos on how to do this.So just to make sure I've got you correct. It's not just the fluid and filter change? BMW actually recommends you change the transmission oil pan also?
I've seen that someone else did it through an indy for just under $600. But wow, I'm not looking forward to finding someone to do it.
328dx Wagon 82000 miles
We got ours as CPO with 41k miles 05/2017 and have been driving it a lot - 82000 miles now. Our transfer case at about 71000, a corroded wire that shorted an ECU and DTC P2004 that went on/off that I have not done anything about. When I read it for that last item, also found 290B00 and 2C3200 pending errors. If some one has a suggestion about them, I would appreciate it.
Still great mileage and fun!
We got ours as CPO with 41k miles 05/2017 and have been driving it a lot - 82000 miles now. Our transfer case at about 71000, a corroded wire that shorted an ECU and DTC P2004 that went on/off that I have not done anything about. When I read it for that last item, also found 290B00 and 2C3200 pending errors. If some one has a suggestion about them, I would appreciate it.
Still great mileage and fun!
328d needs some fluids
*Bump*
Now I'm ready for an oil change. The dealer wants $250 for the oil change and diesel fluid fill. Does anyone have a good independent mechanic in the South Orlando area they recommend?
(I don't like doing them myself even though I am perfectly happy to get dirty on other parts of the car)
*Bump*
Now I'm ready for an oil change. The dealer wants $250 for the oil change and diesel fluid fill. Does anyone have a good independent mechanic in the South Orlando area they recommend?
(I don't like doing them myself even though I am perfectly happy to get dirty on other parts of the car)
Your diesel additive can be purchased at an auto parts store and done yourself. When I was looking for an Indie shop here in PHX, I just googled it, you can always read reviews.*Bump*
Now I'm ready for an oil change. The dealer wants $250 for the oil change and diesel fluid fill. Does anyone have a good independent mechanic in the South Orlando area they recommend?
(I don't like doing them myself even though I am perfectly happy to get dirty on other parts of the car)
If you want a reputable qualified service center that most of Fields BMWs "prior customers" (for a reason) go to for their service needs on their beloved Bimmer I recommend Magic Mechanic at 1432 Lee Rd, Orlando, FL 32804. (407) 629-2661. They are a full service center and work on most of the luxury brands including Bentleys. My 2014 BMW 328d goes to them every since the manufacturer warranty ended. They are likely to most qualified and honest place for Bimmers. And for the DEF like others have said - dont pay anyone for that job. If you can pull a bottle you can do your own DEF refills for a fraction of the price anyone will charge you. Here is what I did. You do need the special fill bottle for the input filler tank. I bought one liter of DEF off Amazon. Look up you tube to see how it works. When that bottle is empty go to Walmart and buy a gallon of DEF fluid (less than $20). It is the same stuff the dealership issues EXACT same ingredients and same stuff. Then that liter bottle you still have. Unscrew the top (yes they want tell you those are refillable) and pour the Walmart stuff into the same liter bottle and repeat until your DEF tank is full. My tank used about half a gallon the first time I did a refill so every refill should cost you about $10 going forward. Oil changes however I leave to the professionals. Cheers!*Bump*
Now I'm ready for an oil change. The dealer wants $250 for the oil change and diesel fluid fill. Does anyone have a good independent mechanic in the South Orlando area they recommend?
(I don't like doing them myself even though I am perfectly happy to get dirty on other parts of the car)
2014 F30 328d twin Turbo. First cold snap (50F) in FL this morning so I used my heater first time today. Don't use too much in Florida. After driving 20 mins engine heated to normal range when i stopped at red light there was white steam coming from under hood. I thought maybe it was just the heat of engine with the cold weather. When i got to work and i stopped popped the hood and noticed the same steam white smoke coming from under the engine but could not tell where it was coming from. I also noticed my expansion tank was below min range. I let the car cool then purchased some 50/50 coolant Zerexg-05 and topped off the expansion tank. Drove a few blocks to pick up lunch and when i checked the expansion tank the level was down again but i didnt notice the same steam smoke coming from under the hood. Car never overheated and i never got any error codes. But to be safe i parked the car and didnt drive again. Had car towed to the repair shop but they cant get to check it out for a few days from today. I didnt see any puddles under the car and couldnt see any apparent leaks. Engine never went past the mid mark of gauge and no error codes. Just wondering if any advice on what to expect as far as root cause and repairs. Been search the posts but nothing under the 3 series diesel 4cyl with twin turbo. Thanks folks for any advice or recommendations. Cheers!
Sent from my iPad using Bimmerfest mobile app
Sent from my iPad using Bimmerfest mobile app
High coolant useage has been a symptom of a failing/leaky EGR cooler. Might want to check around there.2014 F30 328d twin Turbo. First cold snap (50F) in FL this morning so I used my heater first time today. Don***8217;t use too much in Florida. After driving 20 mins engine heated to normal range when i stopped at red light there was white steam coming from under hood. I thought maybe it was just the heat of engine with the cold weather. When i got to work and i stopped popped the hood and noticed the same steam white smoke coming from under the engine but could not tell where it was coming from. I also noticed my expansion tank was below min range. I let the car cool then purchased some 50/50 coolant Zerexg-05 and topped off the expansion tank. Drove a few blocks to pick up lunch and when i checked the expansion tank the level was down again but i didnt notice the same steam smoke coming from under the hood. Car never overheated and i never got any error codes. But to be safe i parked the car and didnt drive again. Had car towed to the repair shop but they cant get to check it out for a few days from today. I didnt see any puddles under the car and couldnt see any apparent leaks. Engine never went past the mid mark of gauge and no error codes. Just wondering if any advice on what to expect as far as root cause and repairs. Been search the posts but nothing under the 3 series diesel 4cyl with twin turbo. Thanks folks for any advice or recommendations. Cheers!
Sent from my iPad using Bimmerfest mobile app
Hey i was Wondering if you did the tranny flush yet? Im curious what the price will be for that. I know it is never 100% flush due to the fluid that remains inside the internal parts. Thanks.Great thread!
I switched from an old e39 (2001) to a 2014 328d (45k miles) in January AND just moved to Orlando 2 weeks ago! Let's stay in touch on mechanics and service centers in the area. I'm located in the SE corner (Lake Nona).
One item that I found so far is that because I have the Msport option, some of my parts are unique to my car only. Found out the hard way when a rock went through my AC condenser and the only part I could find was from the dealer at $650.
The diesel X-drive models dominate and there seem to be very few 328d RWD models out there on the road. Parts are fairly hard to find, so check around different sites if you need minor parts (like underbody plastic panels).
So far the car has been fairly good with great mileage. And luckily diesel is cheaper here than in the Midwest.
Thanks to everyone for posting all the different issues to look for. I'm approaching 60k miles now (I bought the diesel in Ohio because I had a long commute) and need to look into brakes, filters, and a possible transmission flush.
Right now I'm in a desperate need for a Navigation update as the roads here are constantly under construction and the previous owner never updated (I'm on NEXT 2013-1). I'm considering getting the code from BMW because it seems to be the same pricing as the other guys. The threads on this topic are a bit all over and none seem to have links to where they got the maps. (I guess I'll keep plugging away).
Sent from my iPad using Bimmerfest mobile app
So verdict is in. Indy shop tells me that the thermostat housing has cracked at the upper feeder tube and is leaking. What i dont understand is no error codes flashed and the car didn't seem to overheat nor did the oil temp go beyond normal range. BTW bill is going to be $1200 to replace the feeder tube and thermostat and housing and gaskets. Seems like a ton of money for parts that cost less than $150. Any techs out there feel like this job is really over 5 hours of labor?High coolant useage has been a symptom of a failing/leaky EGR cooler. Might want to check around there.
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