2D20 fault
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We can lookup the part# in RealOEM.com (using Last-7 of VIN) AFTER proper diagnosis.
I would hope that ProTool can provide (1) Freeze Frame Data (particularly signal Voltage) at moment fault code saved, and (2) Live Data of Accelerator Pedal Module Hall Sensors, as well as Throttle Valve Potentiometer Signals. THOSE are the best way to diagnose an issue. INPA or ISTA can provide that data, so I would hope ProTool can as well. Sorry, I've never used ProTool, so can't say How/If.
Accelerator Pedal Module Hall Sensor 2 signal is about 50% of the voltage value for Sensor 1. Bentley says Sensor 1 range is ~ .5V to 4.5V, and Sensor 2 range is ~ .5V to 2.5V. The reason for 2 sensors is to check plausibility of signals of "Throttle by wire" system. Similarly, the Throttle valve has TWO potentiometers, and the TOTAL of the voltage of the two signals should be 5.0V, +/- one or two tenths of a volt.
There is SEPARATE wire providing voltage supply to EACH Hall Sensor in PWG, and that supply voltage is 5V, like a number of other sensors. The voltage supply is direct from DME for ALL 4 sensors/Pots. If you need wiring diagrams and Line Identification/ Connector Views, for either/both the PWG or Throttle Valve, please provide Last-7 Characters of your VIN.
George
Hi George. Thanks for this. The s/n A544816. I did find the part number under group 35 doing some backwards research from the Pelican parts website.
Turns out the pedal assembly is used on a huge number of E series vehicles ranging from 2003 and up 3, 5, X3 and x5 and has been superseded many times.
I would appreciate seeing the diagrams as the Bentley manual is lacking in that detail.
In measuring the live data for the pedal I see a maximum of 30% travel indication despite actuation to the floor. The RPM maxes out at 4500 while stationary and about 3000 while in gear.
The error came up when I stalled the car while slipping the clutch to accelerate from a stop. Flubbed it while wearing winter boots, LoL. The car had been working fine until having just driven about 100 km, mixed city and highway with a couple of stops.
I have to do a visual inspection of the wiring harnesses as the car had been parked in a garage for a couple of weeks and I am suspecting rodent damage.
Turns out the pedal assembly is used on a huge number of E series vehicles ranging from 2003 and up 3, 5, X3 and x5 and has been superseded many times.
I would appreciate seeing the diagrams as the Bentley manual is lacking in that detail.
In measuring the live data for the pedal I see a maximum of 30% travel indication despite actuation to the floor. The RPM maxes out at 4500 while stationary and about 3000 while in gear.
The error came up when I stalled the car while slipping the clutch to accelerate from a stop. Flubbed it while wearing winter boots, LoL. The car had been working fine until having just driven about 100 km, mixed city and highway with a couple of stops.
I have to do a visual inspection of the wiring harnesses as the car had been parked in a garage for a couple of weeks and I am suspecting rodent damage.
Attached are ISTA ScreenPrints of Accelerator Pedal Module wiring SSP & Connector View, and Throttle Valve (Drosselklappe) Potentiometer circuits w/Connector View. I also attach INPA ScreenPrints showing Voltage Values (1) at Idle with engine running, and (2) Engine OFF, Igntion ON, pedal 80+% floored. If ProTool can provide Live Data of Voltage values from the Hall Sensors and Throttle Potentiometers, that would be BEST analysis.
The Accelerator Position value is only a single percentage of pedal travel from 0% at idle/Off Throttle, to nearly 100% fully depressed. That Parameter/Value is better than nothing, but is NOT the best data the DME is capable of providing.
Please let us know what you find,
George
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The Accelerator Position value is only a single percentage of pedal travel from 0% at idle/Off Throttle, to nearly 100% fully depressed. That Parameter/Value is better than nothing, but is NOT the best data the DME is capable of providing.
Please let us know what you find,
George
I spent some time working on things today. -10 C in the garage for most of the day with a bitter 25km wind outside so progress was slow.
I did a koeo snapshot with the pedal to the floor which is attached.
I proceeded to do some wiring examination under the hood which was inconclusive. No obvious bites or chafing. I was eventually driven inside the house due to the cold. Not to mention that I am also recovering from COVID and only feeling about 60% well.
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Tomorrow it's supposed to be about +5, so I will be able to move the car out of the garage and gain access to the accelerator pedal assembly without out resorting to any painful yoga positions. I'll also do a snapshot of the measurements at idle. I believe I might even be able to sub in the pedal assembly from my E61 if all else proves inconclusive.
I did a koeo snapshot with the pedal to the floor which is attached.
I proceeded to do some wiring examination under the hood which was inconclusive. No obvious bites or chafing. I was eventually driven inside the house due to the cold. Not to mention that I am also recovering from COVID and only feeling about 60% well.
Tomorrow it's supposed to be about +5, so I will be able to move the car out of the garage and gain access to the accelerator pedal assembly without out resorting to any painful yoga positions. I'll also do a snapshot of the measurements at idle. I believe I might even be able to sub in the pedal assembly from my E61 if all else proves inconclusive.
Today's update: The weather co-operated so I was able to get to work on removing the pedal from the E91. Unfortunately, this required drilling out the allen screw holding it in place. Foot-wells of cars where a lot of salt is used on the roads are pretty harsh environments.
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After removing the pedal , I gave it a clean up and just for fun dismantled it to have a look at the circuit board . It was intact but the pin connections looked sketchy so I touched up the solder points. Upon re-connection, the faults remained the same.
I then took the time to remove the pedal from my E61 to see if it was possible to sub it in but quickly discovered that the connectors were considerably different so no joy to be had. I also spent some time looking through the live data options in BimmerGeeks Protool and was able to find the menu selections for measuring the voltages of the pedal, which I confirmed using the E61.
After re-assembling the E61, I proceeded to complete the process of drilling out the screw for the pedal on the E91 and re-tapping the hole.
Once that was done and the metal bits were cleaned up I used George's documentation as a guide to check the supply voltages to the pedal connector with the pedal absent. I confirmed that both ground wires were functional along with the pedal module supply voltages of 5 volts. This was done in key on, engine off mode.
I started the engine and cleared the codes, doing a re-scan and found that the throttle errors had disappeared with only the faults pertaining to the absent pedal being present. While the engine wasn't really happy, a check of the throttle pot voltages indicated that they were within spec. The idle smoothed out and eventually started to drop.
What this suggests to me is that one of the Hall effect sensor circuits in the pedal has failed as a short circuit which causes the ECM to then block off the corresponding input circuit of the throttle unit.
The next step is to try and source this unit:
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After removing the pedal , I gave it a clean up and just for fun dismantled it to have a look at the circuit board . It was intact but the pin connections looked sketchy so I touched up the solder points. Upon re-connection, the faults remained the same.
I then took the time to remove the pedal from my E61 to see if it was possible to sub it in but quickly discovered that the connectors were considerably different so no joy to be had. I also spent some time looking through the live data options in BimmerGeeks Protool and was able to find the menu selections for measuring the voltages of the pedal, which I confirmed using the E61.
After re-assembling the E61, I proceeded to complete the process of drilling out the screw for the pedal on the E91 and re-tapping the hole.
Once that was done and the metal bits were cleaned up I used George's documentation as a guide to check the supply voltages to the pedal connector with the pedal absent. I confirmed that both ground wires were functional along with the pedal module supply voltages of 5 volts. This was done in key on, engine off mode.
I started the engine and cleared the codes, doing a re-scan and found that the throttle errors had disappeared with only the faults pertaining to the absent pedal being present. While the engine wasn't really happy, a check of the throttle pot voltages indicated that they were within spec. The idle smoothed out and eventually started to drop.
What this suggests to me is that one of the Hall effect sensor circuits in the pedal has failed as a short circuit which causes the ECM to then block off the corresponding input circuit of the throttle unit.
The next step is to try and source this unit:
Two links:
Genuine BMW 35-40-6-889-823 | Pedal Travel Sensor | FREE Shipping on Most Orders $499+ OEMG! | getBMWparts
Shop Genuine OEM BMW Pedal Travel Sensor - Part # 35-40-6-889-823 - & Enjoy FREE Shipping on Most Orders $499+ OEMG!!
www.getbmwparts.com
Be aware that the Accelerator Pedal Module for your MT vehicle DIFFERS from that used in AT.
George
Thanks George. Yes, I am aware that there is a different module for an mt verses the at.
The curious thing is that the current realoem p/n is 35426860000.
Even though the indication is that the pedals are used across a lot of different models, there's a question of connector compatibility which I discovered yesterday.
I have ordered through my local Euro supplier because they are competitively priced and hassle free if there is an issue.
The curious thing is that the current realoem p/n is 35426860000.
Even though the indication is that the pedals are used across a lot of different models, there's a question of connector compatibility which I discovered yesterday.
I have ordered through my local Euro supplier because they are competitively priced and hassle free if there is an issue.
I went to the supplier to pick up the replacement pedal today. When I compared the original with the new, I realized no Bueno. The existing connector was not going to fit. I then called a dealer and had a discussion with the parts dude who was some what confused but agreed to have a look and then meet me.
Turns out that the connector body p/n 6138366594 on my car must be changed to be compatible with any one of the 11 iterations of the replacement pedal. That detail is missing from realoem apparently and the database is also a couple of years out of date.
The dealer had stock on the connector body, p/n 61138383300, which was $12. I purchased it , then headed back across town to pick up the replacement pedal. Not sure I saved any money after all the running around but hopefully this can save someone some grief.
Turns out that the connector body p/n 6138366594 on my car must be changed to be compatible with any one of the 11 iterations of the replacement pedal. That detail is missing from realoem apparently and the database is also a couple of years out of date.
The dealer had stock on the connector body, p/n 61138383300, which was $12. I purchased it , then headed back across town to pick up the replacement pedal. Not sure I saved any money after all the running around but hopefully this can save someone some grief.
Got the pedal installed and started the car. The limp mode symbol was gone immediately. A quick scan showed the historical missing pedal codes which were easily cleared. A rescan showed no more codes and a look at the live data showed all was within parameters. A happy engine again.
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