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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
(first time tread)

I need help on how to approach removing and replacing (R+R) a Crankcase Vent Valve on a 2001, 3.0i, X5.
I was told by the dealer that you do not have to take off the intake manifold; and, Bentley say's this as well.

But I can't clear enough parts from around the intake manifold to see the mounting points in order to remove it? (so I think).
I know where the hose's connect, and can see some of the valve hiding under the Intake Manifold.

I am following the Bentley Manual up to the end of it's instructions, and then some; but, I can't seem to get a clear enough sight on how the vent value is held in.

I really would like to get this "gross out" part replaced before it spits out more brown stuff on the "just cleaned" valve cover or worse.

Has any one done this before? Thanks:rolleyes:
 

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Any luck getting it done?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, it's all done and I am glad it's over. What a pain!

Thank you everyone that answered this thread and posted links; you really S-M-A:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, that's a good question.

Started Friday after work and got a good jump on things, and stopped right up to the point of taking out the valve.
I did take out the front left wheel well shroud, which gives you a good look at the C-valve from the side. You do needed to remove "all those things" in the engine first up to the TB in order to see it this way. (left brake vent needed R+R, and a good time to clean up the wheel well).
I am the third owner of this car and find all kinds of things that need work.

One reply said you don't need to R+I the TB and one said you do need to and I can't remember what Forum/Forums.

I could see one mount screw this way clear as a bell, but the other screw is right behind the TB and was just to tight for any Torx bit to fit.
I think, (here we go) there could be a difference with Bosch and Siemens; or what year that determines if you need to remove the TB or not? Mine is a 2001, 3.0i with Siemens, and I did have to remove the TB.

On Saturday morning came the "Rubik's Cube Crankcase Vent Valve Game" and boy is it fun! :tsk:
Decided to replace all the hose's to this unit, and I'm very glad. There was to much goop in every hose to spend the time going about cleaning them. Also, you don't need to fight the connections to the old hose's; you can cut the rings (or hose) and pull it off.
The biggest pain with installing the new valve is the Connecting Line hose (11617504535). It pass's through the Intake Manifold gaps. This part comes with the "cold style" C-valve.

Removed the hose and the one going to the valve cover from the C-valve, (also comes with the cold style valve) and set them in there passage way. Then put a dab of RTV sealer around the little O-rings that hold the insulation around the valve. (They will pop off as you push the valve in).
Start putting the new valve in, and join the Connecting Line first, (11617504535 # from realoem.). It will be tough to squeeze the locking ring and slip this end of the hose on. You can also try turning the valve/hose 90 degree; slip the hose + valve into another and turn back 90 degrees to get them to lock with out squeeze the lock ring. This is the way it went together with mine, and it did not tear up the part or any insulation.

The rest of the hose's put up a little fight, but not as tricky as the -535 part. Removing the oil filter cap can helped. - Get the -535 part installed first, then the V-cover hose helps. - Installing the mounting screws (after) these two hose ends are on the Valve will help. (just the valve; keep the other ends off).

Then your home free. I did R+I the Distribution Rail (11611440318 # from realoem.) to help with install of the Return Pipe (11617504536).

So to answer you question:
No Intake Manifold R+I; and, not counting the other jobs, just the Crankcase Valve, :D 9 to 10 hours--------- although I will admit that I do screw off cleaning anything I see and can get to, so it's probably less, I guess.

Again, thanks for your help and thanks for asking. I do have pictures if you and who else would like to see them?

Cheers!!
 

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5800,
Thanks so much...the tubing installation sequence helps. I hope to finish mine this weekend...if I can get the elbow off. The screws on the intake elbow boot point down and it is a royal pain to take them out. Hopefully I will succeed tomorrow. By the way I have a 2002 X5.

Did you have any issues with taking out the elbow?

Moodey.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It is hard to get, depending on where the hex is.
Try using a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 6mm socket. Your's "should/might" be the same as mine.
There are 1/4" drive swivels and long extensions you can use with the ratchet and socket to aid in reaching it.

Try wrapping the socket, swivel, and extension with a little strip of duck tap so they won't pull off from one another and fall on top of the aluminum support plate or some place else.

When putting the boot back on, you can "place/turn" the air hose clamp the way you need it to face for next time.
Also check the little "dog tail" that comes off the side of the Tube Elbow (13541440102) boot; it can have dry root cracks that lead through.

I will get the picture's up ASAP.
 

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Well, that's a good question.

Started Friday after work ........
Cheers!!
I would have *LOVED* to have understood your posting here, as it appears you put a bit of time into writing it, but failed to actually include helpful information (as in, what the hell is a TB?, or why did you go thru the wheel well?)

Have you ever posted the photos from this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
(TB) Throttle Body.

Went through the wheel well to get a good look at things. You don't have to.

Sorry it was not helpful. (This service was do using a Bentley Repair Manual and information from other Forums).

This Tread only states what I went through in changing this part. Do not attempt any repairs based on this thread.
 

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(TB) Throttle Body.

Went through the wheel well to get a good look at things. You don't have to.

Sorry it was not helpful. (This service was do using a Bentley Repair Manual and information from other Forums).

This Tread only states what I went through in changing this part. Do not attempt any repairs based on this thread.
thx.. didn't meant to be sarcastic, though my post might have come across that way.

I've been having trouble finding a manual for the X5 (nobody locally carries one) - guess I'll have to order online.

FWIW, I got quoted $675 by the dealer, or $1125 by a local shop to do the CVV. I actually took it into a local autozone and read the codes - turned out it had 13 fuel-lean and misfire errors. all of which leaned towards the CVV.

The independent local shop 'inspected' and told me the CCV was definitely bad. apparently their inspection was not too indepth. Saturday I pulled the intake filter and shrouds back, looked down in there, and realized the oil-filler hose (CVV-Oil stick) was burned in half.. Spent $30 on the cable from the local BMW shop, and suddenly the car is running like a top again...

I think I might have a chat with the local shop manager - it would appear they never bothered to inspect around the unit. :mad:
 
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