The head is aluminum. The washers are steel. Take a magnet small enough to fit down the bolt holes and see if it sticks to something in the bottom of the hole. That'll be a captive washer. Note which holes have captive washers are don't put any on the bolts that go in those spots.

Did that make sense to you? Hope so....

What is the purpuse of the magnet sticking in cerntain holes? I'm a high school teacher working with my students on this car and they are going to ask me the same question.

Do you know how many holes will be captive washers in head 10 bolts?

We'll go and do that test right now!!

Also I don't have an angle torgue gage. It starts 70 ft/pd then two more 90 degrees. Since I don't have a angle torque gauge is there a final torque spec?

Thanks for all your help.

Joel

hornhospital said:

The head is aluminum. The washers are steel. Take a magnet small enough to fit down the bolt holes and see if it sticks to something in the bottom of the hole. That'll be a captive washer. Note which holes have captive washers are don't put any on the bolts that go in those spots.

Did that make sense to you? Hope so....

Click to expand...

I got to thinking about this, while I'm searching for a small magnet, but the head is aluminum, but the block is cast iron. Wouldn't a magnet stick to all the holes?

hornhospital said:

The head is aluminum. The washers are steel. Take a magnet small enough to fit down the bolt holes and see if it sticks to something in the bottom of the hole. That'll be a captive washer. Note which holes have captive washers are don't put any on the bolts that go in those spots.

Did that make sense to you? Hope so....

Click to expand...

No, it will only stick in the holes that have the steel washers still in place. The block is far enough away from the bottom of the head bolt holes that it won't be a factor in the magnetic attraction. The best tool for this is one of the "magnet on a stick" pick-up tools.

The bolts are stretch-to-yield. You torque them in steps to specs, then turn them 90 degrees more twice in the same pattern that you used for the initial torque. 90 degrees....you know, a right angle to where it started from the last torque stopping point.

Where did you get the 70lb/ft figure? The correct tightening torque is 22lb/ft, then turn 90 degrees more in the same pattern, then another 90 degree turn in the same pattern. Hold on and I'll paste the Bentley instructions here.....

Here's the tightening pattern and torque sequence. No where do I find 70 lb/ft as a finishing torque.

Thanks so much for your help!!! I'm glad we haven't started torquing yet!!

hornhospital said:

Where did you get the 70lb/ft figure? The correct tightening torque is 22lb/ft, then turn 90 degrees more in the same pattern, then another 90 degree turn in the same pattern. Hold on and I'll paste the Bentley instructions here.....

Click to expand...

I'm not sure if you had time to read my notes, but the one on checking to see if it has captive washers using a magnet.

If the block is cast iron wouldn't all the holes be magnatized?

wildhorsejkm said:

Thanks so much for your help!!! I'm glad we haven't started torquing yet!!

Click to expand...

Thanks for this diagram, I'm print it off so we have it with us.

hornhospital said:

Here's the tightening pattern and torque sequence. No where do I find 70 lb/ft as a finishing torque.

Click to expand...

Yes, I read all of your postings, and answered that question already. The bottom of the head bolt holes (where the captive washers are) are far enough away from the block it won't matter.

Besides, why couldn't you test it while off the engine? I guess you'd already flopped the head on the block, eh?

Yes the new gasket and head is back on the block.

hornhospital said:

Yes, I read all of your postings, and answered that question already. The bottom of the head bolt holes (where the captive washers are) are far enough away from the block it won't matter.

Besides, why couldn't you test it while off the engine? I guess you'd already flopped the head on the block, eh?

Click to expand...

Are you doing this repair without a manual????? You really need to read up on the cam timing, setting the chain tensioner etc. before proceeding further.

Right-click and "save as" on http://api.viglink.com/api/click?fo...ums&txt=This&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13453156491572

wildhorsejkm said:

Thanks for this diagram, I'm print it off so we have it with us.

Click to expand...

I have a BMW 3 -Series Haynes manual, but it doesn't go into great details. I'll check your link.

I cant thank you enough!!

hornhospital said:

Are you doing this repair without a manual????? You really need to read up on the cam timing, setting the chain tensioner etc. before proceeding further.

Right-click and "save as" on http://api.viglink.com/api/click?fo...ums&txt=This&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13453156491572

Click to expand...

You're welcome! Once you get that downloaded (it's a .PDF) open it and go to the "Cylinder head removal and installation" section. That'll fill you in on what you need to know. The Haynes manual leaves an awful lot of needed info out, and some of it is just plain wrong (replacing the starter, for instance).

It's taking a while to down load!! I live in central Kansas, and the closed BMW Service is Wichita or Kansas City area.

It's great to see the excitement in the students learning new things like this.

wildhorsejkm said:

I have a BMW 3 -Series Haynes manual, but it doesn't go into great details. I'll check your link.

I cant thank you enough!!

Click to expand...

The students machined the pin to lock in #1 Cy at TDC on the flywheel.
I'll do some reading on the file you sent.

wildhorsejkm said:

It's taking a while to down load!! I live in central Kansas, and the closed BMW Service is Wichita or Kansas City area.

It's great to see the excitement in the students learning new things like this.

Click to expand...

New information

hornhospital said:

You're welcome! Once you get that downloaded (it's a .PDF) open it and go to the "Cylinder head removal and installation" section. That'll fill you in on what you need to know. The Haynes manual leaves an awful lot of needed info out, and some of it is just plain wrong (replacing the starter, for instance).

Click to expand...

Hello Ken,

As you know someone donated this BMW to me for the students to work on. So I've looked at the vin# and thought I was doing AOK. Come to find that the emblem with the vin # and manf. date 7-97 is off another car because it had an accident and they replaced the driver door frame.

I've glanced at the Vin # on the windshield but didn't pay much attention to it.

Come to find out it's a 1994 318is. I've been ordering and researching for the 1997. Guess I learned a good lesson to check all Vin's to see if they match.

I took the car for a 10 mile test drive and it ran fine, temp was normal, still have some check engine lights on.

I wish you were just down the road and I would bring it to your shop and tune it up and check it good.

Have a good day
Joel

Yup, the difference is M42 vs. M44 engine, and OBD1 for the '94 instead of OBD2. I have a '95, and it's a crossbreed (all OEM, but mixes M42 with M44 characteristics). Buying the right part is sometimes a challenge. www.realoem.com has been a big help. Plug the correct last 7 digits of your VIN in there and it will show you part numbers for your exact car.

I wish you were closer, too. I'd like to meet you and give you a handshake for sticking with it until it was sorted. :thumbup:

More Information found

hornhospital said:

Yup, the difference is M42 vs. M44 engine, and OBD1 for the '94 instead of OBD2. I have a '95, and it's a crossbreed (all OEM, but mixes M42 with M44 characteristics). Buying the right part is sometimes a challenge. www.realoem.com has been a big help. Plug the correct last 7 digits of your VIN in there and it will show you part numbers for your exact car.

I wish you were closer, too. I'd like to meet you and give you a handshake for sticking with it until it was sorted. :thumbup:

Click to expand...

Hello Ken,

Well everyday I learn more about the BMW! Here is the Vin# under the windshield WBACA5322RFG09475

I went to RealOEM.com and plugged the last 7 digits and it even says it's a 93.

The engine runs ok, but at an ideal it surges, but traveling around 45 mph seem ok, but give it a little gas it starts hesitating, like a old truck with points and the dwell or time was off.

I really think it's over my head at this point. Doing the final tuneup and settings. I still don't have two small vacuum line hooked up yet, and that could be part of the idling problem.
I wish I had someone that knows what they are doing looking over my shoulder on some of this.

I don't know of anyone around that works on BMW's, Wichita, Kansas has a BMW dealer and Kansas City. If I take the car to them, I'm afraid they would rake me over the coals with service time and parts. And the class project would go out the window. The school hasn't and I'm not sure will help with expenses. So I''ve been paying for the parts so far on my own.

Just thought I would see what you thought.

Thanks
Joel