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Hello, everyone! I recently traded-in my Audi for the ultimate driving machine. :D I don't think I've ever owned a car with reverse right next to 1st gear. I have done some searching on the topic and some say it's just a BMW thing to use a lot of force getting the stick over into R and some say it might be a sign of another problem.

I've found moving into 1st and 2nd, especially on a cold start helps to find the sweet spot where I can finally move the stick over and up into R but I can't help but think something is not quite right. The car has 130k, only two owner's before me with one of them being a lease and is in immaculate condition. Speaking more to the exterior and interior conditions with that statement.

Not really a car guy but slowly becoming one with the new bimmer and a list of maintenance and upgrades I'd like to do. My first thought is changing the transmission fluid. I've never done this on any of the cars I've owned but I've never had a car with this high of miles. Other than that I'm out of ideas. I was wondering if it could be the clutch for awhile but I did searches on how to diagnose a bad clutch and mine doesn't really fit the bill. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!
 

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You do need force to push it over and into Reverse. It's a lockout sort of thing, so you don't accidentally bump it into Reverse.

Not unlike my old Audi that I had to push down and over to get into Reverse. Where you might see some improvement in changing the transmission fluid, is if your first to second gear shifts seem a bit difficult, your transmission fluid might need changed. Most will recommend Redline (ATF Fluid I think?) which seems to smooth your shifts between gears more, but that's about it.
 

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Hello, everyone! I recently traded-in my Audi for the ultimate driving machine. :D I don't think I've ever owned a car with reverse right next to 1st gear. I have done some searching on the topic and some say it's just a BMW thing to use a lot of force getting the stick over into R and some say it might be a sign of another problem.
Guess your synchro might be worn....maybe....but new fluid's way, way overdue if not done before. Figure 100k mi a maximum with real benefit if done between 60 - 100k.

Do the fluid change; post result.

https://youtu.be/G-B49SUq-Zo
 

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As CAL says, you're overdue for the fluid change so you should do that regardless. But the issue is more likely the shift linkage. It may be that it is a bit worn at the mileage you describe or it could need some lubrication.
 

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Everything what was mentioned above, plus

push it to the left first and then forward.
My friend has some problems with his E90 to put it in the 1st gear at traffic lights after stopping. I experienced that too with his car and that was always like that. Heard that's common for E90s. But I haven't heard that about the reverse.

Also at that mileage the plastic parts of the gear lever might be worn. If the lever feels inaccurate, give it a try. Made a big difference for my 528i
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=VC53-USA-01-2008-E90-BMW-328i&diagId=25_0388
 

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Appreciate the input! Couple questions...

1. Are the fill and drain plug the same part number? 23117531356? I won't be doing the service myself but I'll bring 2 new plugs to the shop just in case they try to reuse the same plugs.

2. Should I be using 75W90 or 75W80? How many quarts are needed?

3. Should this fluid change cost 1 hour of labor max? Looks easier than an oil change...
 

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Appreciate the input! Couple questions...

1. Are the fill and drain plug the same part number? 23117531356? I won't be doing the service myself but I'll bring 2 new plugs to the shop just in case they try to reuse the same plugs.

2. Should I be using 75W90 or 75W80? How many quarts are needed?

3. Should this fluid change cost 1 hour of labor max? Looks easier than an oil change...
1. they are the same. to my surprise when I did this to my friend's E90, the new drain plugs looked totally different. I don't know why. Either I messed up the order or them. So I just reused the old ones.

2. 75W80 (I use redline mtl or fuchs) for transmission and 75W90 for the differential. Theoretically one quart but that's not possible since you will lose some oil in the pump and spills. Also I pour some into it while the drain plug is out to flush it. I usually buy 2 bottles.

3. transmission should be warm (driven for 30 min). lift up car, keep it horizontal, drain oil, put back drain plug, fill up transmission with oil, put back fill plug. lower car, clean tools.
I spend the most time with jacking up the car and cleaning the tools.
 

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redline d4 or d6

redline d4 or d6
Go to the redlineoil.com and look it up in there app.
D4 smoothed out my shifts especialy in 1 and 2
and yes I know its auto fluid and its used in a manual .
Quite a few threads on this already.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
1. they are the same. to my surprise when I did this to my friend's E90, the new drain plugs looked totally different. I don't know why. Either I messed up the order or them. So I just reused the old ones.

2. 75W80 (I use redline mtl or fuchs) for transmission and 75W90 for the differential. Theoretically one quart but that's not possible since you will lose some oil in the pump and spills. Also I pour some into it while the drain plug is out to flush it. I usually buy 2 bottles.

3. transmission should be warm (driven for 30 min). lift up car, keep it horizontal, drain oil, put back drain plug, fill up transmission with oil, put back fill plug. lower car, clean tools.
I spend the most time with jacking up the car and cleaning the tools.
So 2 bottles of Red Line MTL 75W80. Gotcha. Why do some site members use Red Line D6 ATF for their manuals? Also, will a shop be offended if I show up with brand new drain/fill plugs and a specific fluid I'd like to use?
 

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Because redline says its correct and its closer

Because redline says its correct and its closer
to the factory stuff in terms of viscosity.
See redline app on there website and there blog.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
redline d4 or d6
Go to the redlineoil.com and look it up in there app.
D4 smoothed out my shifts especialy in 1 and 2
and yes I know its auto fluid and its used in a manual .
Quite a few threads on this already.
Any pro's and con's between using D4 or D6? I've seen this debate a little on the site when I was searching transmission fluid change. Do I only need 2 quarts like with the MTL 75W80?
 

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Why do some site members use Red Line D6 ATF for their manuals?
I don't know. Never had a problem with MTL.

Also, will a shop be offended if I show up with brand new drain/fill plugs and a specific fluid I'd like to use?
I asked a shop when doing smog check. He said he is happy to change my engine oil for $18 and I can bring my filter and oil. I guess it depends on the place.
 

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I had to go back to see what I bought.
I bought Redline's D6 here at Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BTGK6...top-rhs-carousels&ie=UTF8&qid=1468642601&sr=1

Basically it comes down to where you're doing your driving.
There's MTL, D4, and D6. I picked D6 because I do a lot of driving in colder climates (all through the western edge of PA from Buffalo, NY to Pittsburgh, PA)
D6 will be thinner than the rest. D4 is a bit thicker (middle ground?), and MTL will be thicker than all 3. If you're in hot climates primarily, go with D4 or MTL. If you do driving in colder climates, the D6 may help you continue to shift in the winter.

edit: conversely, the thicker grades may do a better job coating and protecting the moving parts.
 
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