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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Recently acquired a 2013 330d xDrive and shortly after noticed a tapping (almost like a petrol knocking sound) sound from the engine. It could well have been there during test drive but who knows now! I'm getting stutter under low load when under 2k rpm, especially when cold and noise seems worse under load. MPG doesn't seem what it should be either.

I have access to ISTA+ and can see (much worse when cold) that cylinders 2 and 3 are overfuelling in the smooth running control. 2 worse than 3. There are fault codes logged for both cylinders in relation to this. Today I decided to swap injectors between cylinder 1 and 2 to see if the fault follows the injector or stays with the cylinder.

I recoded the ECU for the swapped injectors and performed the fuel system bleed procedure.
I also did replace the seals on both injector when I swapped them, but did not have the tools to do the bore clean out procedure referred to here:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f30-330d-xdrive-lim/repair-manuals/13-fuel-preparation-control/13-53-fuel-injector-nozzles-lines/KmfxGao0

It was much worse after and still cylinder 2 with the problem, cylinder 1 still fine. Smooth running values over +10 whereas previously it peaked around +6. Worse still, after a short drive I can hear a steam train sound from the engine on tickover and on inspection, what would appear to be gasses from the cylinder are puffing out around the injector 2 bore hole.

So I am worried - where do I head now? I did notice that the torque to install the injector claw seemed way lower than that needed to remove it, and the injector body was quite rusty. However this is the injector that is now in cylinder 1 and working fine.

Any help greatfully received!

Thanks_a_
 

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02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 98K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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What do you imagine is the purpose of the cleaning, and of the cleaning plug installation?

At a minimum I would acquire all of the special materials, tools and seals, and re-do the entire procedure meticulously following the instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What do you imagine is the purpose of the cleaning, and of the cleaning plug installation?

At a minimum I would acquire all of the special materials, tools and seals, and re-do the entire procedure meticulously following the instructions.
Thanks for the reply.

Sometimes you just need someone to tell you what you had already knew to take it seriously!

I guess the reason I skipped over it was that I've changed similar injectors in other makes of car and have never seen the cleaning as part of the procedure or requiring a special tool.

I'll get the injector out later and have a good look down to see if there's any obvious debris then see what I can about getting the official tool

-Ted
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, so i removed the injector that was blowing by, cleaned the hole/seat and reinstalled. Now no evidence of blow by but still getting overfuelling in the same cylinder on the smooth running test - and it appears to be worse than when I started. The seal that was originally on the injector showed no signs of blow by - the copper was bright with no carbon tracks.

It's now bad enough that I'm getting an occasional misfire at idle.

Where to head next?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, so i removed the injector that was blowing by, cleaned the hole/seat and reinstalled. Now no evidence of blow by but still getting overfuelling in the same cylinder on the smooth running test - and it appears to be worse than when I started. The seal that was originally on the injector showed no signs of blow by - the copper was bright with no carbon tracks.

It's now bad enough that I'm getting an occasional misfire at idle.

Where to head next?

Thanks
Just a quick question on this one.

The procedure for removal is as follows:

Release screw (1) of clamping claw.

Remove clamping claw, screw and centering ring.

Pull out injector with light rotational movements.


What is the centering ring? All I remember seeing was the screw, the clamping claw and the injector itself. Am I missing something?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
An update on this one. Car has only been started occasionally to move it around for the past few weeks and yesterday I noticed the engine had got much louder at idle . Took a look at the injectors and could see large puffs of smoke from injector 1 and then noticed injector clamps for both injectors 1 and 2 are partly broken. Picture attached.They both seem to have broken at the same place.

1009385


I am sure they weren't like this when I last fitted them as I'd have noticed the missing arms. I can see a broken part next to injector 2 but cannot find a second one. This seems really odd to me and I cannot find any similar experiences on forums. They look like substantial pieces of metal and I'd have thought the bolt would snap way before there was enough force to snap the clamps.

I am used to working on VAG cars and they use single use torque to yield botls all over the place including injector hold down bolts but the ones on the BMW don't seem to be single use only, unless I'm mistaken?

Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just to finish this one off - it turned out to be two bent conrods causing low compression on two cylinders.
 

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Just to finish this one off - it turned out to be two bent conrods causing low compression on two cylinders.
Thanks for updates! (y)

So the issues were caused by bent/broken connectors to the ignition coils? Or conrod as in connecting rod from piston to crankshaft?

If it is truly connecting rod, what caused these internal engine components to be bent?
 

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Thanks for updates! (y)

So the issues were caused by bent/broken connectors to the ignition coils? Or conrod as in connecting rod from piston to crankshaft?

If it is truly connecting rod, what caused these internal engine components to be bent?
Unfortunately the latter. I don't know the history of the car so assuming it has hydrolocked at some point. Currently trying to work out the best way forward.

Does the engine have to come out to get the sump off and release the big end bearings? Bear in mind it's an xDrive with all the assocaited extra crop round the front! Do you think I'll get away with replacing just the two bent conrods?

I only realised the problem once the head was off and could see pistons 2 and 3 were not protruding from the block deck at TDC. The other 4 look fine. Picture below is pistons 3 and 4, 3 closest to the camera.

1012756
 

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Unfortunately the latter. I don't know the history of the car so assuming it has hydrolocked at some point. Currently trying to work out the best way forward.
Wow that is most unfortunate. There are diesel owners on this side of the pond but usually those folks do not hang out on this sub forum.

From a layman's perspective with zero engine replacement experience, given this is engine out and analogous to open heart surgery, is it easier and cheaper to drop in a rebuilt/donor engine than replace internal parts?
 

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Unfortunately the latter. I don't know the history of the car so assuming it has hydrolocked at some point. Currently trying to work out the best way forward.

Does the engine have to come out to get the sump off and release the big end bearings? Bear in mind it's an xDrive with all the assocaited extra crop round the front! Do you think I'll get away with replacing just the two bent conrods?

I only realised the problem once the head was off and could see pistons 2 and 3 were not protruding from the block deck at TDC. The other 4 look fine. Picture below is pistons 3 and 4, 3 closest to the camera.
Check for uneven wear from the crankshaft journals up to the pistons.
 
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