This is a tune I've been using for some time now, and it's my tune of choice at this point, fwiw.

 

Why?

 

Stug, which version are you using? They show 3 with the top one controlling both CRD and Boost. They offer 4 different mappings for this version, so which do you choose? How do you order and take delivery stateside?

Curious minds want to know!:thumbup:

 

Indeed we do.

 

http://www.diesel-performance.co.uk/box-details.php?id=10

And technically, there are 28 maps (each of the 4 maps has 7 different settings).

Regarding ordering, just talk to Andrew/work through the site, and they'll get you taken care of. Tell Andrew that Ronin sent you if you happen to pick one up.

 

It seems the DTUK-T is a better option as it is a two channel system controlling fuel throughput as well as turbo boost. DTUK is manufactured by DTE in germany which has years of diesel tuning experience for multiple auto manufacturers. JBD only controls fuel, does not control turbo boost, and JBD makes only one module for this one engine.

I could be wrong, please enlighten me. I have been considering buying both myself.

Controls turbo boost? What is this box connected to when installed? I want to see a picture of the installed box.

 

Found this on their site which seems to answer the question.

"Unlike our other common rail modules, GREEN, RED, CRD2, that only connect to the common rail pressure sensor, the new CRD-T also connects to the turbo pressure sensor, allowing us to control and increase the boost settings. This results in an even smoother power delivery, and even lower emissions and even more power and torque."

My question is where is the turbo pressure sensor connection exactly?

 

I have nowhere near the experience with other tune boxes as Ronin, however after three weeks or so I am very happy with my DTUK CRD-T tuning box. I have spoken at length with the DTUK GM Andrew, and am pleased with customer care and support. My 2011 335d is doing great.

Subjectively, of course, it appears turbo lag is 90% reduced. Power output feels about 30% better across all RPMs. I have not dyno'd it yet so take my claims with a few grains of salt.

 

I have nowhere near the experience with other tune boxes as Ronin, however after three weeks or so I am very happy with my DTUK CRD-T tuning box. I have spoken at length with the DTUK GM Andrew, and am pleased with customer care and support. My 2011 335d is doing great.

Subjectively, of course, it appears turbo lag is 90% reduced. Power output feels about 30% better across all RPMs. I have not dyno'd it yet so take my claims with a few grains of salt.

And some Tequila!:drink:

It sounds fantastic, too good to be true?:dunno:

It certainly makes sense to control both fuel delivery and charge air pressure.

They mention a new model with 3 channels, or am I getting confused already?

 

Why don't they show the Dyno graphs for the 335d?

BMW 335D 286PS - 340bhp and 508.5lbft (687nm!!!!)

What are they hiding?

Stugout/Ligament, any codes or limp mode with this?

 

Limp mode can happen, yes. Running Map 3 at Stage 7 (30%) will trigger limp almost 100% reliably under WOT. Depending on conditions, Map 3 Stage 6 (20%) will do the same (interestingly enough, only under intense acceleration going from 2nd to 3rd). I can reliably run Map 3, Stage 5 (10%) without concern for limp, and a massive increase in power and torque.

Codes that can pop up (and will, generally, with a tune) when this happens fall along the lines of Rail Pressure Plausiblity, but I've also seen Air Mass Sensor and Gas Pressure Sensor.

 

Last thing I want when trying to spank something is to have the engine go limp! That's embarassing.:eeps:

Do you just have to shut off engine and restart it to reset?

Would a code tool with a reset feature resolve it on the fly?

I emailed Andrew to see if he would send me the Dyno Graph missing from their website.

Looks promising, like the concept vs a reflash of the ECU.

 

Here is their Dyno Graph on a 335D. I assume this may be a EU Spec, not US Spec.

Still reseraching asking questions. Comments?

 

Here is their Dyno Graph on a 335D. I assume this may be a EU Spec, not US Spec.

Still reseraching asking questions. Comments?

View attachment 321515

I'd be interested to know which map that's on, actually. The reason I ask is because I've had the car dynoed (HP only) with the DTUK tune, and I peaked at just over 365HP.

 

DTUK also sent me the four programming profiles for the US Spec version of their tuner.

Not sure I understand it but here it is.

 

Ok, so this is the MAP profile I have. I am using Map 1 at +20% currently.

I suspect Ronin and I have our MAPS stored in different banks.

 

I can't really read the maps very well.

What are the other three maps then if the first is 20%?

Do you know what the red and yello lines represent? I'm assuming one if fuel rack position and the other is turbo boost.

 

Here is the response from DTUK.

The four settings represent 10%, 20%, 30% and 40% gain on the output signal to the fuel delivery and turbo boost. Signal is in 0.1V (volt) increments.

Sounds simple enough.

So, is it any better than what the others are offering? :dunno: Cost is around $550 delivered.


"The 4 programmes are what the box adds when the setting is set on zero.

horizontal axis is the range that the sensors work within.

red line is extra fuel, yellow is extra boost.

when you move to + 1(10% or 2(20%) ure actually adding 0.1v to the additional voltage already added by the system on zero setting."

 

Was the 365hp using a guestimated parasitic loss to get back to crank hp? Surely that wasn't at the wheel???

If so I need one of these ASAP

Jay

 

Actual dyno. Still trying to find the damn file from the run.

So which setting seems to not pull any codes or limp mode? I assume it is kind of like the JDB where if you dot get too greedy with the settings then fear of codes/limp should be nonexistent.

The 0% setting on any one of the 4 maps is pretty much guaranteed to not trigger limp. I've never stayed at the 0% setting for long, because there's a marked difference between 0%, 10%, 20%, and 30%.

Stugout, they also offer a 3-Channel which includes the shaft pick up for rpm.

Did you consider that one?

Andrew at DTUK has been pretty good at responding but always leaves me asking more questions.

I think he's baiting me!

He didn't have the 3 channel when I got mine. Might see if he's willing to let me trade in my current model for that one. I messaged him on E90post a couple of days ago, but he hasn't responded. Where are you contacting him? Via email or forum?

 

So which setting seems to not pull any codes or limp mode? I assume it is kind of like the JDB where if you dot get too greedy with the settings then fear of codes/limp should be nonexistent.

 

Stugout, they also offer a 3-Channel which includes the shaft pick up for rpm.

Did you consider that one?

Andrew at DTUK has been pretty good at responding but always leaves me asking more questions.

I think he's baiting me!

 

To all here. I have the RENNtech flash and I went LIMP Mode when I dynoed the car , hence I had NOT completely turned OFF the DSC, but I have YET to go limp mode while driving i have had as quoted by STUGOTs Or Ronin I believe the following quote:

[COLOR="Blue"]"Codes that can pop up (and will, generally, with a tune) when this happens fall along the lines of Rail Pressure Plausiblity, but I've also seen Air Mass Sensor and Gas Pressure Sensor. "[/COLOR]

The first one was because I had the clamp to the mass flow sensor lose! after that I did not go SES until a month later and before I did the code erase it turned off by itself. I spoke to my mechanic and he stated that whenever you have tunes sometimes some codes will come up but usually not serious, but he did advise me never to ignore whenever the light comes up.

 

He didn't have the 3 channel when I got mine. Might see if he's willing to let me trade in my current model for that one. I messaged him on E90post a couple of days ago, but he hasn't responded. Where are you contacting him? Via email or forum?[/QUOTE]

Email. Andrew@DTUK <andrew@diesel-performance.co.uk>

 

does anyone make a bigger intercooler yet? seems like that would be easy and make decent gains.

powered by lemings

 

No, but according to a recent post by Evolve seems to indicate they are working on that and a "hybrid turbo" whatever that is.

 

Regarding the 3 channel DTUK box, Andrew told me a few weeks ago the 3 channel system is not available in the US.

 

Yes, he confirmed in an email that they are not offering it due to more costly and requires a power supply (12v input), and is more complex.

The 2 channel sounds to me to be about the best option out there, given the results shown so far and the price.

 

I'll dyno my 2011 335d with the DTUK CRD-T box and post results, however I need instructions on how to do the dyno the right way, and in particular a way that will help posters on this board.

What specific dyno should I look for, what gear to dyno in, what settings to have enabled on the car, etc would all be helpful to expedite this process. I don't have enough time to do research on this so if you could spoon feed me it would help.

I live in Seattle, WA and if any of you could recommend a good place to go for the Dyno would be appreciated. thanks!

 

I'll dyno my 2011 335d with the DTUK CRD-T box and post results, however I need instructions on how to do the dyno the right way, and in particular a way that will help posters on this board.

What specific dyno should I look for, what gear to dyno in, what settings to have enabled on the car, etc would all be helpful to expedite this process. I don't have enough time to do research on this so if you could spoon feed me it would help.

I live in Seattle, WA and if any of you could recommend a good place to go for the Dyno would be appreciated. thanks!

The type of dyno doesn't really matter, since you are simmply measuring the delta between the baseline and tuned results. Dyno Jets are good machines as are Mustang Dynos. Don't get to fixated on the actual HP results; remember dynos are just a tool to measure gains. Find a shop that has the latest software and make sure they can get your torque readings. Most operators know what their doing, but generally speaking the dyno should be done in 4th gear, smoothing set to 5. You also want to make sure the environmental conditions are nearly the same i.e. outside temps, humidty etc. as well as make sure you car sat for the same amount of time (a hotter engine will produce lower results).

 

I'm confused - on their site, it does not show the t-box available for the US spec car. Or maybe I can't understand their English. If you order the t-box, will it still work on US spec cars?

 

Eye for speed, yes they have the DTUK-CRD-T for the US spec 335D. No problema. Two folks on here have it installed, Stugouts and Ligament.

Price is BP 340 or about $550.00. If interested just send Andrew a note and tell him Ronin sent you.

I'm seriously interested.

 

Offhand I know two people who build custom turbo lits(intercoolers as well) and quite easily could make one for these cars. Now if they have the interest to do this or what they would charge is beyond my knowledge. They also of course could do custom exhaust work. One is in San Antonio and the other I believe San Diego(sp?). they mainly do domestic based race cars or custom street ones.

 

Offhand I know two people who build custom turbo lits(intercoolers as well) and quite easily could make one for these cars. Now of they have the interest to do this or what they would charge. They also of course could do custom exhaust work. One is in San Antonio and the other I believe San Diego(sp?). they mainly do domestic based race cars or custom street ones.

In 4 years or so when it is out of warranty I will probably experiment with this a bit. I figure adding a car a year or so for two years then the reliability is slightly less critical on any given car and I can play with swapping turbos and the like.

 

Sure but mentioning for the people having trouble finding a solution.

 

Tell them to post the build process and what they used if you happen to run into anyone. My hope is that by the time I do it maybe someone else will have already...

 

It was 65 F yesterday in Seattle, and I threw 4 limp modes in an hour on MAP 1, +20% setting. Changed to MAP 1, +10% setting and no more codes all day despite hard driving.

The higher settings are very sensitive to temperature in my car. However, I am still super happy with the unit. The manual warns not to go above +10% anyway, so does Andrew himself.

 

Am I missing something here?:dunno:

Why would I want a tuner with 4 settings, two of which will most likely 100% set off the limp mode?

I'm getting the feeling it is best to just leave it alone.

 

Why would I want a tuner with 4 settings, two of which will most likely 100% set off the limp mode?

The same reason when you have an amp that goes to 11, that you turn it up to 11?

 

even if that is 365 at the crank, that's better then JBD. That tune sent my car into limp mode then stopped working alltogether. wanted to send it back but he'll only do a swap not refund.

 

There are around 1000 JBDs out in use and it's proven to be very solid. Every now and again we'll get someone who puts a connector on backwards, or doesn't have the clip installed and it backs off, etc. Other than that the only consideration is the power setting. We ship with a 65% setting which works with 99% of the DME versions out there. The older DME versions allowed higher settings of 100% without codes, but BMW changed their software and as a result most cars now throw a light above 90%. If you don't want to worry about it, just keep it at the default setting. It is also possible your unit is defective if you get a light regardless of setting. We include one year of support so if you need additional help feel free to email in. We always respond to emails quickly.

Also, regarding performance, it's highly unlikely any D tune is putting out much more than 340rw on a dynojet. The highest I've seen was a JBD @ 330rw. Most of our customers report 300-315rw. Do not make the mistake of trying to compare dyno A to dyno B as they all read and report very different numbers.