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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks,
I have a 2011 335D with about 108k miles which is currently in the shop.

Here's what happened (in short):
- Particulate Filter warning came on. Took the car on the road for 3h.
- Warning came on again, and again, and again for about 2 weeks.
- Tried forced regeneration (through the Carly App) but warning still came on.
- 1 Week ago while stuck in traffic, the warning came on and it started smelling like something burned in the engine room.
- 1mi later, the car made a terrible noise, I stopped immediately
- Even though the key was removed, it sounded like something was still running. When ever I opened the door (anything that triggered electricity) the starter would go off and all electronics went crazy.

What the shop did so far:
- Replaced battery
- Found that fuse 01 was blown out, and was replaced.
- When starter was running and hot lead is disconnected, fuse 01 blows out
- Found that engine harness has been melted and the DPF pressure sensor tube had come off

Has anyone experienced that before?
My guess is that the DPF is clogged and all the pressure went into the engine room which caused the engine harness to melt.

The shop wants to replace the engine harness (estimated $4000 for parts and labor). Is there a way to see what caused the problem before the replacement or does the engine have to run?
I don't want to spend $4K only to figure out that the car may be totaled.

I would be really grateful for any productive advise as the shop is currently waiting for me to give them the go on the engine harness repair.
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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17,538 Posts
This is the same shop that has done the previous work? In any case, find a competent shop that will honor their warranty of good workmanship and of parts merchantability.

Totaling a car often happens when the repair costs exceed the value of the car. A car has two values, the extrinsic value - what a salesman thinks, and the intrinsic value to you.

This car is approaching ***8216;totaled***8217; for somebody***8217;s incompetence. Talk to your attorney (that***8217;s one that you have paid money).
 

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Hey folks,
I have a 2011 335D with about 108k miles which is currently in the shop.

Here's what happened (in short):
- Particulate Filter warning came on. Took the car on the road for 3h.
- Warning came on again, and again, and again for about 2 weeks.
- Tried forced regeneration (through the Carly App) but warning still came on.
- 1 Week ago while stuck in traffic, the warning came on and it started smelling like something burned in the engine room.
- 1mi later, the car made a terrible noise, I stopped immediately
- Even though the key was removed, it sounded like something was still running. When ever I opened the door (anything that triggered electricity) the starter would go off and all electronics went crazy.

What the shop did so far:
- Replaced battery
- Found that fuse 01 was blown out, and was replaced.
- When starter was running and hot lead is disconnected, fuse 01 blows out
- Found that engine harness has been melted and the DPF pressure sensor tube had come off

Has anyone experienced that before?
My guess is that the DPF is clogged and all the pressure went into the engine room which caused the engine harness to melt.

The shop wants to replace the engine harness (estimated $4000 for parts and labor). Is there a way to see what caused the problem before the replacement or does the engine have to run?
I don't want to spend $4K only to figure out that the car may be totaled.

I would be really grateful for any productive advise as the shop is currently waiting for me to give them the go on the engine harness repair.
If possible, inspect the wires by gently trimming the burnt part of the wiring harness away without damaging the metal wires. It could be just 2 wires touching each other. The offending wires can be temporarily wrapped with tape to confirm the fix worked. The harness can then be repaired by cutting, adding shrink wrap and soldering back together. Things are tight in there so the harness may need to be removed or partially removed to do this.
 

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We use to have an 11 335D. In many ways it was a great car. V8 power and 4 cyl. mpg. We had 80k on the car when we got rid of it, as it was out of warranty and already starting to have emission issues. In fact the last straw was a repair bill that would have been 4k if not for the warranty. Honestly if this car is anywhere near totaled I would get what you can for it and walk away. I can almost guarantee you there are more large repair bills coming. The D was a great idea, but imho BMW dropped the ball when making it. Good luck. N4S
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If possible, inspect the wires by gently trimming the burnt part of the wiring harness away without damaging the metal wires. It could be just 2 wires touching each other. The offending wires can be temporarily wrapped with tape to confirm the fix worked. The harness can then be repaired by cutting, adding shrink wrap and soldering back together. Things are tight in there so the harness may need to be removed or partially removed to do this.
I asked the shop whether that's possible but I was told the damage is already too substantial to fix the individual wires.
They're currently trying to figure out whether it's possible to fix only the exposed part (as seen on photo). Does anyone have an answer?
Has anyone replaced parts of the engine harness?

Also here is the full list of what the shop has done so far (and I'm already $1200 deep without any repair taken):

Performed a fault memory evaluation, found the following faults stored in the DME relating to the DPF (diesel particulate filter system):
4D99 Particulate filter system, minimum differential pressure under shot after regeneration, particle filter flow resistance low Bank 1,
frequency 1 time.
4D01 Exhaust backpressure sensor, signal too low, diesel particulate filter differential pressure too low, frequency 15 times.
4D00 Exhaust back pressure sensor, signal, signal too high, diesel particulate filter differential pressure sensor too high, frequency 5 times.
4CF3 Exhaust back pressure signal, sensor, dynamically implausible, frequency one time.
4BF4 Exhaust gas differential pressure sensor, diesel particulate filter, signal, pressure too high, frequency 94 times.
4990 Exhaust gas pressure sensor before turbocharger, plausibility, exhaust gas pressure before turbocharger dynamically not plausible,
frequency 1 time.
48D1 Exhaust back pressure sensor before turbine, plausibility, not plausible in relation to boost pressure and ambient temperature,
frequency 23 times.
4873 Exhaust gas recirculation cooling, plausibility, exhaust gas recirculation cooler bypass flap faulty or cooler efficiency too low, frequency
1 time.
4862 Air system, air to EGR mass flow, plausibility, measured air mass compared with calculated air mass too high, frequency 255 times.
481A Particulate filter system, particulate filter heavily clogged, fault currently present, particulate filter flow resistance high Bank 1,
frequency one time.
480A Particulate filter system, fault currently present, particulate filter heavily clogged, exhaust back pressure high, frequency 1 time.
The fault memory was cleared during diagnosis for the battery and starting issue. No DPF faults returned at this time. The vehicle cannot be
driven currently due to a wiring issue with the starter. After repairs to the starter wiring have been performed the vehicle will be test driven
and the fault memory will be re-checked to see which faults return.


Technician found the battery to be dead, once a jumper box is fitted the mileage is legible & key was ejected. A battery is needed to
continue.
Performed a battery test. The battery failed the performance test due to having zero CCA, 720 CCA spec.
Removed and replaced the battery. Upon connecting the battery to the vehicle, found that the starter would activate without the key
inserted. When the key was inserted and the start button was pressed, the engine ran but the starter would not stop running.
Disconnected the negative battery terminal to turn off the vehicle.
Disconnected the hot lead to the starter. Performed a fault memory evaluation. Found faults in CAS (car access system, CAS has an internal
relay for starter control):
A0C1 output, terminal 50.
A0C2 output, terminal 50 RS.
Performed a CAS reset.
Connected the hot lead back to the starter.
Found the starter to operate normally but the engine would no longer start.
Checked faults again. Found a fault for the fuel volume control valve:
4330 Rail-pressure control valve, activation.
Checked fuse F01 for the control valve, found it to be blown.
Replaced Fuse F01 and the vehicle started, but the starter would not stop running again.
Checked voltage at the starter control wire, the starter was getting constant battery voltage even with the key out of the ignition.
Disconnected the hot lead to the starter again.
Found that when the starter is running and the hot lead is disconnected, fuse F01 blows out.
Replaced fuse F01 again, the starter started running without the key inserted again. Removed fuse F01 and the starter stopped running.
Fuse F01 should not be supplying power to the starter control wire. Determined that there is a wiring short to the starter control wire.

Disconnected the control wire to the starter. Checked for continuity between fuse F01 and the starter control connection. Determined that
fuse F01 circuit and the starter wire were somehow connected. Removed the upper engine covers. Inspected the engine harness. Found
that the DPF pressure sensor tube had come off. The pressure tube may have come off due to age of the tube or the DPF may be clogged.
Since the pressure sensor tube was disconnected, exhaust gas was shot up into the engine harness. The engine harness has been melted,
shorting the starter control to the fuse F01 circuit.
During repairs, the vacuum lines were found to be brittle as well.
The following has been recommended:
-Replace the engine wiring harness.
-Replace the DPF pressure tubes.
-Replace all engine vacuum lines.
After the engine harness is repaired. Diagnosis of the DPF system can be performed.



Based on that report does anyone have a suggestion how to continue or what the issue could be? I'm not sure whether I should strip the car apart and sell the parts or get it fixed (side note: I love this car and everything else is perfectly maintained. DPF system -> GO TO HELL)
 

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I asked the shop whether that's possible but I was told the damage is already too substantial to fix the individual wires.
They're currently trying to figure out whether it's possible to fix only the exposed part (as seen on photo). Does anyone have an answer?
Has anyone replaced parts of the engine harness?

Also here is the full list of what the shop has done so far (and I'm already $1200 deep without any repair taken):

Performed a fault memory evaluation, found the following faults stored in the DME relating to the DPF (diesel particulate filter system):
4D99 Particulate filter system, minimum differential pressure under shot after regeneration, particle filter flow resistance low Bank 1,
frequency 1 time.
4D01 Exhaust backpressure sensor, signal too low, diesel particulate filter differential pressure too low, frequency 15 times.
4D00 Exhaust back pressure sensor, signal, signal too high, diesel particulate filter differential pressure sensor too high, frequency 5 times.
4CF3 Exhaust back pressure signal, sensor, dynamically implausible, frequency one time.
4BF4 Exhaust gas differential pressure sensor, diesel particulate filter, signal, pressure too high, frequency 94 times.
4990 Exhaust gas pressure sensor before turbocharger, plausibility, exhaust gas pressure before turbocharger dynamically not plausible,
frequency 1 time.
48D1 Exhaust back pressure sensor before turbine, plausibility, not plausible in relation to boost pressure and ambient temperature,
frequency 23 times.
4873 Exhaust gas recirculation cooling, plausibility, exhaust gas recirculation cooler bypass flap faulty or cooler efficiency too low, frequency
1 time.
4862 Air system, air to EGR mass flow, plausibility, measured air mass compared with calculated air mass too high, frequency 255 times.
481A Particulate filter system, particulate filter heavily clogged, fault currently present, particulate filter flow resistance high Bank 1,
frequency one time.
480A Particulate filter system, fault currently present, particulate filter heavily clogged, exhaust back pressure high, frequency 1 time.
The fault memory was cleared during diagnosis for the battery and starting issue. No DPF faults returned at this time. The vehicle cannot be
driven currently due to a wiring issue with the starter. After repairs to the starter wiring have been performed the vehicle will be test driven
and the fault memory will be re-checked to see which faults return.


Technician found the battery to be dead, once a jumper box is fitted the mileage is legible & key was ejected. A battery is needed to
continue.
Performed a battery test. The battery failed the performance test due to having zero CCA, 720 CCA spec.
Removed and replaced the battery. Upon connecting the battery to the vehicle, found that the starter would activate without the key
inserted. When the key was inserted and the start button was pressed, the engine ran but the starter would not stop running.
Disconnected the negative battery terminal to turn off the vehicle.
Disconnected the hot lead to the starter. Performed a fault memory evaluation. Found faults in CAS (car access system, CAS has an internal
relay for starter control):
A0C1 output, terminal 50.
A0C2 output, terminal 50 RS.
Performed a CAS reset.
Connected the hot lead back to the starter.
Found the starter to operate normally but the engine would no longer start.
Checked faults again. Found a fault for the fuel volume control valve:
4330 Rail-pressure control valve, activation.
Checked fuse F01 for the control valve, found it to be blown.
Replaced Fuse F01 and the vehicle started, but the starter would not stop running again.
Checked voltage at the starter control wire, the starter was getting constant battery voltage even with the key out of the ignition.
Disconnected the hot lead to the starter again.
Found that when the starter is running and the hot lead is disconnected, fuse F01 blows out.
Replaced fuse F01 again, the starter started running without the key inserted again. Removed fuse F01 and the starter stopped running.
Fuse F01 should not be supplying power to the starter control wire. Determined that there is a wiring short to the starter control wire.

Disconnected the control wire to the starter. Checked for continuity between fuse F01 and the starter control connection. Determined that
fuse F01 circuit and the starter wire were somehow connected. Removed the upper engine covers. Inspected the engine harness. Found
that the DPF pressure sensor tube had come off. The pressure tube may have come off due to age of the tube or the DPF may be clogged.
Since the pressure sensor tube was disconnected, exhaust gas was shot up into the engine harness. The engine harness has been melted,
shorting the starter control to the fuse F01 circuit.
During repairs, the vacuum lines were found to be brittle as well.
The following has been recommended:
-Replace the engine wiring harness.
-Replace the DPF pressure tubes.
-Replace all engine vacuum lines.
After the engine harness is repaired. Diagnosis of the DPF system can be performed.



Based on that report does anyone have a suggestion how to continue or what the issue could be? I'm not sure whether I should strip the car apart and sell the parts or get it fixed (side note: I love this car and everything else is perfectly maintained. DPF system -> GO TO HELL)
My vote
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Does anyone know the best way to sell a car that doesn't turn on? Again, everything else is in perfect condition. New tires, breaks, rotors, perfectly maintained, etc.

It's my first time being in that situation...
 

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Does anyone know the best way to sell a car that doesn't turn on? Again, everything else is in perfect condition. New tires, breaks, rotors, perfectly maintained, etc.

It's my first time being in that situation...
Call your insurance company and see if they will offer anything.
 

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Does anyone know the best way to sell a car that doesn't turn on? Again, everything else is in perfect condition. New tires, breaks, rotors, perfectly maintained, etc.

It's my first time being in that situation...
In theory, someone could remove the harness, repair it and replace for just their time. Post it on craigslist and facebook and be honest. Post lots of pictures and a long detailed description to get the best results. The risk in buying a non running car is you can't test engine, transmission, AC and so on so that will drive the value down. There also is risk that the shorted wires damaged an ECU or something expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Do you have to remove the harness completely?
I've never seen an engine harness fully and I'm far away from any mechanical knowledge.
In my amateur mind, I would just assume you can cut off the part that got melted together, extend it with new wires, isolate it and at least be able to test the electronics?!
 

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Do you have to remove the harness completely?
I've never seen an engine harness fully and I'm far away from any mechanical knowledge.
In my amateur mind, I would just assume you can cut off the part that got melted together, extend it with new wires, isolate it and at least be able to test the electronics?!
If this were my car, I would attempt to insulate the wires while in the car to confirm that the issue was fixed. The wiring short may have caused other issues. If corrected, I would then attempt to permanently fix the damaged insulation while in the car. Worst case, if the damage is extensive or just hard to get to, you need to remove the harness. And then repair or replace with a used one.
 
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