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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is the first time posting on the bimmerfest forum. Part of the reason I'm here, is because i feel like I need advice on the community of a certain situation i put myself in.

Just recently purchased a BMW 335i from a seller just about 45 minutes away from. I purchased the car because i believed the price was simply too good to pass up, at only $5500 for a 335i with just shy over 100K. I owned a few e46s and a 2 E90s, so I knew what to look for as far as problems, however the N54 engine was something new to me. I saw videos and read through posts to know what look for, and while inspecting the vehicle, it really just looked like it was in really good condition(or at least i tired to convince myself of that).

I spoke to the seller, and asked why he was selling it. He told he was selling it for a friend that did a lot of traveling and who had just recently purchased an R8, and that he really didn't have any use for 335i and that it has merely been sitting for the past year. Naturally I take every seller's story with a grain of salt, but when i ran the Carfax, it really does check out. This "friend" of his was the first and only owner of the car, since 2007, the car seemed to not have been driven much in the past 12 years. I asked the seller for all the necessary paperwork he had for the car, and while had the bill of sale ready and title, he did not have the smog certificate, claiming that the California smog centers where down. I found this extremely suspicious(never heard of this happening before) so I automatically didn't believe the seller in anything he told me about the mechanical soundness of the vehicle.

Despite my better judgment i still wanted to purchase the car, so I still continued to test drive the car accelerating at high rpms on the highway to try to see if any lights popped on. And to my delight, nothing turned on. However just on the way back to the original spot we met at, the car displayed an Engine malfunction notification on the dash. It is at this point, that I began to lean on not buying the car, still I wanted to be sure it was nothing major. So I took out my scan tool, scanned the vehicle for any codes, and got a 30FF code, for boost pressure leak. I called up my mechanic and asked him what this meant, and he explained to me that this could be anywhere from defective vacuum lines to faulty turbos, and that it would be hard to pinpoint unless he was there to see it. I was looking online while the seller was talking to his friend, and I wasn't able to find any helpful info on what it could be.

Still though, taking into account the cars overall condition, despite the light that came on, the cars condition aside from that fault code was still pretty good. I kept trying to convince myself that maybe this issue was all to serious. So against all better better judgment i negotiated down to $5000 and still purchased the car. After having the vehicle for the past week and watching online videos of what a 30FF code good be, Im very certain that the car has faulty turbos. This is because i can hear very clear rattling coming from the turbos at the wastegates. i inspected everything else from the charge pipes to the vacuum lines and it all seems to be in functioning condition.

Taking all this into account Im starting to believe I made the wrong decision in buying the car, but i won't know, until i have my mechanic take a look at it. Nevertheless id, still like t hear what others can tell me about this situation.
 

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Why did you buy a car with a known problem (CEL for boost pressure) and not have it mechanically inspected first?
I don***8217;t think $5000 for a 100,000 mile 2007 335 is that great of a deal and I never would buy a car with more than 20,000 miles without an inspection. I fix all my own cars but don***8217;t trust myself to be objective about a cars issues when I***8217;m buying. So paying a mechanic $150 for an inspection and his opinion is cheap insurance. Walking away from deals after the mechanic said the car or boat or truck is not as good as it looks, is the best 150 I***8217;ve ever spent.

You better hope it***8217;s the Charge Pipe that***8217;s leaking because buying a turbo or two will be very expensive.
Sorry I hope I***8217;m wrong but I think this is going to be a hard lesson for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No need to apologize, I appreciate the brutal honesty. Honestly, I feel like this is something I needed to hear. And yeah you're most certainly, right I definitely walked into this obvious problem. I should've had a prepurchase inspection. However the reason I did not, was because I was trying to convince myself that the problem wasn't as bad as I'd thought. It wasn't until I've driven it around these past few days that I began to realize that it is the worst case scenario. and at very most I will have to pay 3-4k in repairs, if they are the turbos.
 

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First test the boost control vacuum lines and use ISTA-D to actuate the wastegates.
Then boost leak test.
If all that is sound and the problem continues, the turbos may indeed be the problem.
 

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Well if it’s the car you wanted as far as options color etc then basically you got a fair price even if the turbos need replacement . You paid 6k for a n54. You can either fix the rattles via repair kit, find someone who’s selling used post upgrade ones , or go all in and FBO your car and put some turbos in it.
You’re gonna need to walnut blast , likely a valve cover gasket or cover, OFHG serpentine belt, tensioner and motor mounts , as well as fluid changes, water and LPFP soon. You better just get ready to consider the discounted price a plus.
You got a great car don’t have buyers remorse . If you turn your own wrench or if you pay , once you get it all done you’re not gonna regret it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Well if it’s the car you wanted as far as options color etc then basically you got a fair price even if the turbos need replacement . You paid 6k for a n54. You can either fix the rattles via repair kit, find someone who’s selling used post upgrade ones , or go all in and FBO your car and put some turbos in it.
You’re gonna need to walnut blast , likely a valve cover gasket or cover, OFHG serpentine belt, tensioner and motor mounts , as well as fluid changes, water and LPFP soon. You better just get ready to consider the discounted price a plus.
You got a great car don’t have buyers remorse . If you turn your own wrench or if you pay , once you get it all done you’re not gonna regret it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This right here is great advice.
 
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