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View attachment 575896
$4050 down 12k a year $590 monthly
What y'all think. Pretty much has every option thanx !!
You dont have enough data here for anyone to evaluate what this deal actuall is. Is it a lease or a purchase?

If its a lease, its NOT "$590 a month" Not sure why people dont understand this, but if its a lease, and you put money down (NOT drive offs, but "cap cost reduction") any money you put down just pre pays part of the lease payments.

So, again, if this is a lease, your ACTUAL payment is 590 + 4050 \ 36 (your lease term). Thats 590 +112.50, or an actual payment of 702.

If its a purchase money down is fine because it reduces your actual amount borrowed.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's a lease as stated in the header and these were the final numbers 4090 down was included with the first month payment
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok I'm new at this why and what should it be. Should it be that if I only put 2000 down. Trying to keep outta pocket low as possible and payment 500-6
 

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It's a lease as stated in the header and these were the final numbers 4090 down was included with the first month payment
Did you read the leasing 101 thread? Here is the information that we need to evaluate this deal:

MSRP
Selling Price before incentives
Incentives applied
Selling price after incentive applied
Fees (doc fee, registration, etc)
Money factor
MSDs ?
Monthly Payment

What you have there is the build for the car with the MSRP (at least thats what appears to be what that piece of paper says.

Whats the selling price?
What incentives? Whats the money factor? What fees are they using?

Also, please read what I typed about down payment on a lease again in my first post. Any cap cost reduction (money down, NOT drive off fees) just pre pays part of the lease, so your first offer from them is not 590, its 702.

If you need to hit a specific monthly payment, its much better to take that cap cost reduction and put it in another bank account and pull from it every month to supplement your payment (in the case of that first deal put 4k into the separate account and pull 112 from it every month to supplement your payment).

Since you did not seem to understand when I said you did not provide enough data to evaluate (and like I said that piece of paper looks like a build sheet, I certainly dont see money factors and such on there for example or even the selling price of the car), I suggest you re read the leasing 101 thread again a few times before you do anything else to make sure you really understand what the terms mean, etc.

Even if you dont explain it to us, YOU should know what they mean, but if you are asking for us to evaluate it, we cant without that information.

@carrix, the attachment I am seeing has a MSRP of 58k (not under 46)... are we looking at the same attachment? Maybe I am missing something.
 

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And if you don't want to get into the weeds, you can just find out from your CA:

  1. What is the Invoice on this car?
  2. Does my discount include any manufacturer to dealer money that you have not disclosed?
  3. Are you using the base lease money factor for your quote and what is it?

All the rest is only good to calculate an actual payment. The above 3 things are where dealers will gain profit and are your leverage points.
 

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thats a horrible deal.

If you are a 'monthly payment' shopper you will be abused by your dealer/salesman since he knows you dont know what you are doing. The problem with starting a deal not known what you are doing is that you have $hit the bed with that dealer since they will never really give you the respect they will give an educated buyer. Even if you study up, it will be hard to change the dynamics at that one dealer.

NEVER put money down on a lease. Do "MSDs"..read up on this. Your risk losing the down payment if the car is totaled.

As mentioned above- read up the leasing 101...get educated.

Good Luck!
 
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