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Hello all. First post on this board and unfortunately it is to report a problem and ask if anyone else has heard of or experienced this problem.

We bought a 2015 435i in late November. Wife and I share the car and just enjoy the heck out of driving the thing. Has been a wonderful addition to the garage.

Last Friday, drove the car without any problems. Enjoyed a little 'Sport' mode on some country roads here in Texas, driving between two offices. Got home, no problems. Went to go on a date with the wife Saturday night and nothing. Absolutely no response from the vehicle. No automatic window drop, no courtesy lights, nothing! Went and got my wife's key fob. Same thing - no response from the vehicle. Immediately think there is a dead battery, kids left interior light on, something. So get the jumper cables and hook up the connections properly under the hood, wife in jump vehicle and myself in the 435. Still nothing. No juice. Get out. Check jumper cables with a quick tap on the cables and they are hot - good spark - so I know the current is there. The car basically has a complete electrical failure - it's dead.

Monday morning call local dealer to arrange for service. Tech comes to house. Tries to jump it himself, does a couple of checks, tests battery etc. No go. Eventually the mechanic comes out to disengage the tranny and push out of the garage so a tow truck can take it in Tuesday. Ugh.

Called service department today and advisor called back after speaking with the technician. They really don't seem to know what is going on. They are going to order a new SEM (possibly SIM) module and see if that fixes the problem. Has to be programmed to the vehicle and apparently takes 5-10 days to get it.

The car has less then 3000 miles. Not driven hard every day. This was going to be our fun car, date car, go for the weekend to Dallas car. Now worried it's going to be a "leave us stranded" car.

Anyone else seen or heard of a similar problem in the 435i?
Thanks for your help / response!
 

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These car draw power 24/7 so my initial thought is that your battery was dead due to the low miles. Also in the past I've heard this problem can be exacerbated if the key (comfort access) is left in the car because it puts it into a "ready to start" state that draws even more power. This may no longer be the case but worth asking about.

I've heard of the module and it sounds like the tech has an idea of what is wrong with the car.
 

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Low mileage drivers should chime in here. I have a '13 F30 with only 6,500 miles on it. The OP's car is in operation for what? Six months with a fatal power failure?

The battery is a simple thing to check.

Honestly I keep expecting a battery problem but nothing so far.

Looking forward to the final diagnosis.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Replying to a couple of your guys' responses.

1) Car is not driven hard - but almost always driven once a day. My wife might just take it to the grocery store and back some days, but it is started and driven on most days.

2) Battery was checked by technician that came to house and was fine. Technician, mechanic, and two different tow truck drivers all tried to jump it without success. The BMW mechanic tried both jump points under the hood, and through the connected battery in the trunk.

3) If you are jumping from the engine compartment, you are bypassing the battery I'm guessing.(??) So there should be power from the jump vehicle to the car to at least get some juice to the electronics. Would be interesting to try disconnecting the battery and hooking up jumper cables to the engine and see if the car powers up.

4) 5 months old with 2800 miles or there about. Purchased Black Friday but did not take delivery until first week in December.

Heard from dealership today and they replaced the "front end" module and "upgraded" all other "modules" and they believe they fixed the problem. Told I should be able to pick up the vehicle tomorrow.

PointandGo - you nailed it though. Very concerned to have a completely dead vehicle, not related to the battery, with less than 3000 miles.

Thanks for all your responses.
 

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The car has less then 3000 miles. Not driven hard every day. This was going to be our fun car, date car, go for the weekend to Dallas car. Now worried it's going to be a "leave us stranded" car.

Anyone else seen or heard of a similar problem in the 435i?
Thanks for your help / response!
that's BMW Cars

I am selling my BM in 6 months and that's it

after 15 years I am switching brand
 

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that's BMW Cars

I am selling my BM in 6 months and that's it

after 15 years I am switching brand
Whoa! Perhaps you can detail your reasons? :dunno: Sorry to see you leave the fold.
 

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here we go
 

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currently I have two

- 2009 LCI 79000km and oil leaks everywhere plus various electronics issues
- X1 28,000km still going fine ... touch wood

Previously

E92 : 26,000km and $6500 in repair with electronic and ABS Module
E90 : 36,000km died with Acceleration module , ELV, confort access issues (all failed within one week)

many E46 before and never had any issues
1 series E87 : faultless

New BMW cars are piece of shxt,,, they should use Japanese/Korean electronics instead of eastern European made electronics plus Pleaase BMW Please SEAL engines properly, oil leaks are annoying

And stop using too many sensors
 

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Here in California, if the dealer cant fix the issue for 30 days, then you get a new car. Plus you get a dealer rental during the time. This happened to me already on another car.

One of the many perks we get here is the golden state.
 

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... Battery was checked by technician... Technician, mechanic, and two different tow truck drivers all tried to jump it without success. The BMW mechanic tried both jump points under the hood, and through the connected battery in the trunk... Heard from dealership today and they replaced the "front end" module and "upgraded" all other "modules" and they believe they fixed the problem....
Exactly the problem we had with a Buick, just change the battery to under the rear seat, otherwise the sudden death, all the tow truck attempts and the module talk is the same. The dealer said he temporarily disconnected the cable linking modules in order make the car start, and they kept it as a shop car for a week hoping it would die again and point to the faulty module, but was never able to say which one caused the problem or that it would not happen again. We were afraid of being stranded again, so traded the car to him for a newer car.
... New BMW cars are piece of shxt,,, they should use Japanese/Korean electronics instead of eastern European made electronics plus... stop using too many sensors
This kind of problem is not limited to BMW.
 

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that's BMW Cars

I am selling my BM in 6 months and that's it

after 15 years I am switching brand

Do you know what you're switching to?

________________________________

I guess personal experience does vary.

Wife and I have gone exclusively BMW the last five years. Our 2012 550i has had a few minor issues. Mostly with the fuel injectors. But once the dealer replaced those, the car drives beautifully. Also had one or two faulty sensors ... but that's about it.

Worse issue I had was with my 2012 E92. After driving it for 18-20 months the right rear tire went flat. When I brought it in the SA told me both rear tires were worn down to the steel belt ... on the INSIDE of the tires. Wheel & Tire insurance would not cover the cost of replacement.

Asked another SA about the issue and he said that BMW cambers the rear tires specifically to get more handling ability. This puts far more wear on the inside of the tire.

Don't know if this is true or not.

Otherwise, our bimmers have done as well or better than other cars we've owned ... Lexus, Toyota, Volvo and Range Rover ... when it comes to maintenance issues.
 

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This is clearly an one off case. You shouldn't regret and think that all BMWs are bad because of that issue.

Even multi million dollar airplanes have serious defects sometimes. So do not expect any car to be perfect.
 

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This is clearly an one off case. You shouldn't regret and think that all BMWs are bad because of that issue.

Even multi million dollar airplanes have serious defects sometimes. So do not expect any car to be perfect.
I agree, the dealer is taking care of the problem, fixed the problem move on and enjoy the car.
 

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Similar "No Start" Issue with the 2015 435i

At 38K miles (and several weeks after replacing the battery), my car would periodically (once every 5 days) have no response at all to either remote.

Note that my car has:
1) a new battery (replaced and registered by me; Reg. confirmed by dealer)
2) a new alternator (replaced 2 weeks ago by dealer);
3) New battery in key-fobs/remotes.

The problem would occur only after the car had gone into hibernation mode. The key-fob would not "wake" the vehicle to supply power to the dash and ignition switch. Car would remain completely dead.

Once, I was removing items from the "dead" vehicle and slammed the rear passenger door in disgust. Instantly, the car came to life! Pushed the ignition switch and it started right up!

I assumed it might be an issue with a control module coming off the battery. I pushed in all connectors I could find in the battery compartment, but no dice.

Had the vehicle towed to a DIFFERENT dealer from the one who replaced the alternator. Once they were able to recreate the problem (on the second day) they found a slightly loose ground wire coming off a module in the battery compartment.

In hindsight, I'm now speculating that the first dealer may have replaced the alternator without really understanding the nature of the problem. They'd told me some other things that I knew for a fact were not true, which is why I took it to a different dealer the second time.
 
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