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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi reading though a few things on this forum but its not quite giving me the info I need to know about trans failsafe program. I understand its a process of elimination.

Car been been a fantastic car to me then out of the blue I get this warning... Thecars always shifted fine and was shift up and down smooth and no hesitation the transmission has always had a slight wrrrr noise in first gear or in neutral has no transmission leaks .. Or leaks whatsoever.
About 3 weeks ago I had the door and the boot open and the stereo up loud and it was dead flat after 6 hours (dumbass) I got a jump start and its been fine... Currently I have the battery disconnected and on charge to see if there's any difference..
I have noticed it a lumpy cam idle usually warms its gone. and if I stomp on the loud pedal fast and back of it cackles and pops.. Maybe alternator is deciding to go bad?
Car starts fine with ease no warning in idle I can run through the gears on the spot and everything's fine but as soon as I drive when it would usually change into second gear it goes straight into 4th or 5th and I get the transmission warning..

I hope thats enough information to give you guys. And thanks in advance
 

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First up, get your battery checked and fully charged. These cars are voltage queens and they have tantrums when they don't get enough.
Next find yourself a way of reading and clearing the error codes.
Chances are it's voltage related from reading the post, but see what happens once you've done those two things.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Cool, thanks man. So I am going down the right track... I started doubt myself after an hour searching the forum and the most common issue was voltage...also is there a way to check the voltage on the dash? I am sure I seen a picture of someone checking where the warnings come up..... Excuse my bad grammar I have bad wrists and typing is painful
 

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There is, but you'd need to unlock your cluster to do it...
I don't have a link handy to the procedure unfortunately, but it's far more accurate to check it at the battery with a multimeter.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 

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The voltage cluster test is not at all accurate -dmm readings key off and running at the posts is the only way to go
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just an update my battery charged over night, drove to work still trans fail came up.
I checked it with the multi meter and the battery was 12.4v before I started it and the car running was 14.3v
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Another update, cars up to operating temp, turned car of and opened the filler plug with a 8mm Allan key and woah it started to pour out so I quickly put the plug back in... Is this how I should check it? Or should it be running
 

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It needs to be running in park.
Level, or as close as you can get it

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
How can I clear the fault codes to see if it was a glitch cause now that I think about it I gave it a wash the day before it happened ? I thought if I cleared the codes it may be a one off issue
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
OK another update, ok so I followed this page, very informative. http://www.ideaphile.com/bmw/540-obc.html
Went to test 19 entered last digits of my Vin
Scrolled thought to 21 it asked "reset?" So I thought what do I have to loose... Did it, was hard to read as so many dead pixels and tried to go through the fault codes...anyway took it for a quick drive and it didn't do it. Usually it would kick in as soon as I accelerated. Will keep you guys posted and I hope this is of use to some one else :)
 
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