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personally, i would rather pay the $20 or so and get something already made. I don't have the patience to mess with something like that.... dru, yeah, i'm probably going to upgrade... i'll let you upgrade first..... :) let me know. i'll definitely take the other off your hands. btw, the splitters are gone right? nyc was ccccoooooolllllldddddd.
 

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The Anti-Rice
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Your going to have to dremel and sand the ring after its made anyways, so you might as well go ahead and make one. The pre made plastic ones are no good. They dont seal flush. Make an MDF rignt and then you can sand down the edges to clear the grill. Otherwise you got clearence issues. The plastic rings you can buy will need sanding too, but then they wont be sealing anymore.

Trust me, dont buy the pre made spacers. Its a waste of money when you find out they dont work. Ask me how I know.
 

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The Anti-Rice
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Oh, and test fit over and over again. I used blittle nuts and olts to secure the ring to the enclosure. The screws pulled out. Its plastic afterall. Get some silicone sealant to also seal the ring to the box. Drill a new hole for your speaker wire. Then seal that hole with silicone.

Oh yeah, I remember why the pre made suck so bad. The sub really isnt 6.5 or whatever. The JL sub wont sit flush with pre made mdf rings that I had tried. It gets down to about a inch from the ring and then the basket is too wide/deep to sit flush.

Oh, and dont even bother putting it back together without dynamat extreme on everything. Coat the entire box inside like Ron's site shows. Everything rattlels back there. Get some felt strips for the place where to two box pieces overlap. Everything rattles. I have my rear interior light rattling now. I cant figure out that one.

Any more questions?
 

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The Anti-Rice
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Ha! A dremel. Now thats a funny one. I tried to do it with a dremel at least 3 times before I gave up. And I had the hole cutter guide and the corded one, no batteries.

Basically, you can do it with a jig saw. You gotta shave the bottom of the ring though so it clears. When I got done, mine was flush to the speaker at hte top and tapered down bigger.

Let me see if I still have the guide and the router or if I sent them to cleveland.
 

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The Anti-Rice
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PS - I got a set of ADS 645is speakers for sale. Nice compliment to the sub. I know they fit because they fit in my car. But the problem is with getting the damn covers on. Clearence issues with the tab, thats all though.
 

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Ad Grunt
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443 Posts
On the board... draw the outter edge of the circle with a compass, then draw the inner edge. Drill a bunch of holes along the inner edge with the holes just barely touching the line you drew. Use a jig saw and start cutting out the inner circle with the holes you just made. Then cut along the outter circle you drew with just the jig saw to get rid of the outter excess. You need not concern yourself with cutting a perfect curv. You can sand away the imperfections with a sander or a sanding drum which you can use with a power drill.

And of course.... follow all common sense safety procedures. Wear eye protection etc etc. If you know how to use a compass to draw a circle and know how to cut shapes out of paper with a pair of scissors, then you pretty much have the skills you need to make the spacer. Really.

If you want to get fancy and make the job a little easier... get yourself a Rotozip with the optional adjustable hole cutting accessory. Use that to cut out the center. You can even use the Rotozip to cut out the outside.
 

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The Anti-Rice
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Yeah, thats the slow way to do it. But my dremel had a cutting bit and it still took forever and was not pretty.
 

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The Anti-Rice
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Your not getting any air leaks? I had the worst time plugging all my leaks.
 

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Your not getting any air leaks? I had the worst time plugging all my leaks.
None. That rubber ring is actually quite soft, and tightening the screws a bit apparently compresses the ring enough to seal. A bead of silicone on the top and bottom could provide a better seal, but my installation didn't require it.

One hint, while I'm typing, during the install process I experimented with filler in the sub enclosure. I found that if you Dynamat the enclosure filler is quite beneficial, as measured by my Gold Star sound meter. I used Dynamat Extreme, and double-layered the large surfaces. (Such messy stuff though.) In another car I measured, where the owner didn't Dynamat the enclosure and just stuffed in filler, I measured essentially no difference in the octave of 40-80 Hz from stock. The stiffness of the unmodified enclosure must be very poor.

Another hint... according to my measurements the stock amp is power supply limited. If you use more efficient mids and tweeters the subwoofer amps put out more volts. I switched to Infinity References all around, and they appear to be 3-5db more efficient than the stock HKs. The result is that the 6W0 appears to get more than enough clean volts to drive as much bass as that tiny stock enclosure will support. There's still a rather annoying suck-out in the frequency balance in the 100-200Hz octave, which makes the system sound way too laid back for my tastes. Unfortunately, I suspect the fix is larger and stiffer enclosures for the kick panel speakers (which is why many cars have them in the doors), but that would require a re-think of the installation (IMO, filler doesn't help), and I'm not that serious about car sound.
 
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