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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just got an '05 645Ci with 34K miles on it - car is beautiful, except I just noticed I have a leaky valve cover gasket on the passenger side and I'm doing it myself as I just did this on my E46. I've followed the water coolant DIY so far, and not so bad, except now I'm really stuck.

I can't remove the last ignition coil - furthest towards the back. There just does not seem to be any room to pull it out. It hits against the metal cover where the engine management wires to into. I'm guessing I have to remove some firewall panel, etc. but I can't see anything that can be removed.

Does anyone have any information on how to do this? (This would also be a problem for just changing spark plugs)
 

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I'm traveling right now so I can't run out to see what you are talking about, but I'm wondering if you removed both cabin air filters and the two piece tray that the filters clip into?

Here are two threads where TxTaz and 643/333 talk about removing the coils and plugs closest to the firewall.

TxTaz on removing coil#8

See 645/333s posts on how to remove the rear plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks for the reply! I did remove that and have now added some photos to show the issue. Any help is much appreciated, this seems like it should be really simple but is a bear!

The second photo shows what I think is the A/C line. I removed the nuts holding this to the sidewall, but even with that out of the way there is not enough clearance to pull out the coil.
 

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645Ci Ignition Coil - How to remove?

- Passenger's side -remove the 2 each 10mm nuts to the A/C lines. Slide the lines off over the 2 bolts and push the A/C lines down and at he same time, slide the coil out to the rear. Ensure the end of the coil is closed too.

- Driver's side - you have move the battery terminal assy to access the rear coil. Warning!!!!!!!!! Make sure the battery is diconnected before disconnecting the assy!!!!!!!!!!
 

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645Ci Ignition Coil - How to remove?

- Passenger's side -remove the 2 each 10mm nuts to the A/C lines. Slide the lines off over the 2 bolts and push the A/C lines down and at he same time, slide the coil out to the rear. Ensure the end of the coil is closed too.

- Driver's side - you have move the battery terminal assy to access the rear coil. Warning!!!!!!!!! Make sure the battery is diconnected before disconnecting the assy!!!!!!!!!!
+1 That's the way you do it.:thumbup:
 

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These rear coils are proof that BMW was trying very hard to get the motor mounted as far rearward as possible to get that magic 50/50 weight distribution. (actually 49% / 51%) Too bad it resulted in this job being a total pain in the arse to complete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks so much, Im going to try this today. One more question - do I disconnect the A/C lines at the front in order to pull them towards the rear? If so, is there any fluid in there that I need to worry about?
 

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Thanks so much, Im going to try this today. One more question - do I disconnect the A/C lines at the front in order to pull them towards the rear? If so, is there any fluid in there that I need to worry about?
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.

You really don't want to do that. Just remove the A/C line mounting/support bracket and push them down a little as you pull the coil. You will need to pull it out in order to clear the mounting stud, then push them down.

Make sure the coil top is closed, you will need every mm you can get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sure enough, that did it. Thanks so much!

There are quite a lot of things that need to be removed to get that valve cover off:
a. top engine cover
b. side engine cover
c. stress bar / strut brace (yep, have to remove it)
d. cabin air filter trays
e. spark plugs
f. valve cover breather pipe
g. ALL electrical connections on pass side ignition wiring harness
h. wiring harness support bracket
i. servo motor
j. ECU cover
k. I unclipped all wires inside the ECU so I could lift the pass side wiring harness out of the way.
l. coils (this was the part I had trouble with)
m. unbolt all valve cover bolts (back ones are a bear also!)

This rates as one of the more difficult valve cover gasket replacements I've ever done. What a PITA!

After removing the valve cover, I looked at the gasket and was surprised to see no cracks or leaks, and it is still quite pliable. There was definitely an oil leak at the gasket and I'm wondering if it was just an under-torqued bolt issue. This is the only thing that makes sense to me with such low miles (34K and a valve cover oil leak!). Anyways, when the new gasket comes in I'll replace it and that will be that. If the other side leaks at least I'll know what I'm in for.

Thanks to you guys that replied, there is so little tech information on this car and there does not seem to be a repair manual so this forum is very helpful. If I do any more work in the future I'll be sure to do a DIY write-up to help others. Also, I did see that the 7-series E65/E66 have some things in common (the N62 engine), so maybe some of those DIY's apply here.
 
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