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You need to have your battery registered to the car, the new battery is most likely causing your tranny codes. I put a battery in my 750 around 6 weeks ago, & started getting all kinds of weird codes. I had not gotten time to register the battery, & yes it went away once it was registered.

Have your battery registered.
Thanks HerbP,
besides my INPA my other BMW tools dont work on my 64BIT laptop so I will definitely drop the car off for coding and registration tomorrow. Driving used to a bliss but nowadays im nervous when im in a busy traffic or when i have to drive uphill because i have to keep restarting the car.
Will keep u updated:thumbup:
 
There is no reason your INPA, NCSExpert, or DIS should not run on a 64 bit computer. You might need to set the properties in the startup file to run in an earlier format.
I finally managed to get the software working I had to re-install it using XP compatibility mode...and I came across an interesting step-by-step DIY pdf on battery registration...I went ahead in registered and coded the battery myself.
However I have a minor question...the picture attached shows the screenshot of the PDF final result BUT on my side I noticed a small difference: the values circled here on my side all were '-1' instead of '1' as the pdf shows...my question is do you have an idea on how these values affect the battery registration.
PS. The battery registration return a "OKAY" status. I will update you on whether this improves the car performance.
 

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HerbP the battery registration thing doesnt to have help...though I can say my heater is now working fine...other than that still getting Transmission Fault...came back from work on limp mode today. So I guess the next step is to take it to the dealer and have the transmission fluid/pan/mechatronic checked I just hope its got nothing to do with solenoids because I aint ready to sell a kidney! What I can say is that the gear shifting is at its worse in the morning when the car is cold...but after a long drive over 30 min drive everything feels smooth again...but once the car is parked for few hours its all back to zero! And the loss of power is very noticeable such that I have been drive on Sport mode lately.
 
I would find an independent shop that works on German cars, most all have the same manufacturer tranny. Most dealers will want to change the tranny at the tune of 8k or better. An independent shop might do all of the work for less than 600.00, & that should fix your problem. It is really not that hard to do, just a little messy. Hard shifting is usually attributed to low fluid, but the drive moderately is usually from the Mechatronic adapter seal allowing fluid to bypass the valve body. You might consider a Sonnax ZIPKIT while the valve body is out, this will replace the o-rings & some internals in the VB.
 
Same problem

Hi, I've got a 630ci and the transmission overheated issue is a real pain. The gearbox was rebuilt, solenoid and fluids changed, but still happens. the independent garage now thinks it might be the mechatronic system - which could easily be a nightmare to even look at.

However, I dont think my battery (which is a quite new white Bosch one, put in by the last owner) is correct or registered (is there a quick way to tell without plugging it in?). I've noticed that the overheat message only comes up when I've been driving like a granny and then put my foot down, plus when i clear the message or press back on the idrive it doesnt appear in the idrive faults and the red light on the speedo dash goes after 5 minutes. Engine temp is fine and I dont get limp mode. Obviously I'm paranoid that keeping on driving will do loads of damage.

I'm also having trouble with the roof, however if I rev to 2K then it works - so again I think my problem might be the battery isn't right. I'll update after the weekend after the battery has been looked at - fingers crossed its just that!
 
It sounds like you have voltage problems. I would measure battery voltage to make sure it is above 12 volts with the engine off. The voltage running should be around 14 volts. There is no way to diagnose the tranny temp without plugging it up to a computer.
 
I would find an independent shop that works on German cars, most all have the same manufacturer tranny. Most dealers will want to change the tranny at the tune of 8k or better. An independent shop might do all of the work for less than 600.00, & that should fix your problem. It is really not that hard to do, just a little messy. Hard shifting is usually attributed to low fluid, but the drive moderately is usually from the Mechatronic adapter seal allowing fluid to bypass the valve body. You might consider a Sonnax ZIPKIT while the valve body is out, this will replace the o-rings & some internals in the VB.
I took a drive to the Indy and after diagnosis the code suggests that theres a couple of clutches slipping so he is suspecting that the transmission fluid could be low so he suggest that would be the first step to replace the fluid, tray and the filter and if that doesnt solve the problem then it might need to rebuild the transmission. On my INPA I pick up the code P17F6 with (3-4) or (B-D) which I noticed the gear shift hangs mostly from 3rd to 4th gear or backwards...
 
HerbP the battery registration thing doesnt to have help...though I can say my heater is now working fine...other than that still getting Transmission Fault...came back from work on limp mode today. So I guess the next step is to take it to the dealer and have the transmission fluid/pan/mechatronic checked I just hope its got nothing to do with solenoids because I aint ready to sell a kidney! What I can say is that the gear shifting is at its worse in the morning when the car is cold...but after a long drive over 30 min drive everything feels smooth again...but once the car is parked for few hours its all back to zero! And the loss of power is very noticeable such that I have been drive on Sport mode lately.
I was having similar problems with my 2004 645ci about 5 months ago. In heavy traffic or uphill I would lose electrical for a few seconds, power would return, but I would have a transmission fault and end up stuck in 5th or 6th. I first took it to a shop and they said the battery hadnt been registered to the vehicle. We went ahead and did that and the car was fine for a few hours then it happened again. I ended up taking it to a german only shop and within a few hours of inspecting they found that my alternator was bad. That was replaced and its been driving smooth ever since.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Bimmerfest mobile app
 
I took a drive to the Indy and after diagnosis the code suggests that theres a couple of clutches slipping so he is suspecting that the transmission fluid could be low so he suggest that would be the first step to replace the fluid, tray and the filter and if that doesnt solve the problem then it might need to rebuild the transmission. On my INPA I pick up the code P17F6 with (3-4) or (B-D) which I noticed the gear shift hangs mostly from 3rd to 4th gear or backwards...
Along with his suggestions, I would go ahead & change the Mechatronic Adapter seal & the sealing sleeve while the pan is off.
 
My alternator test so far shows good results the battery is charging at 14V with the ignition on...i just got a new battery 2 weeks ago...In the morning with the power off the battery Voltage is at 12.5V when the power and utilities are on on with headlights and aircon and music the batt sticks around 13V
I am pretty much sure it is time to lift the car
 
I have a 07 650 and just experienced the same. In drive, all the warning lights came on with the Transmission Fault warning with exactly the same message you got. It stuck in one gear. I tried to switch to manual shift with no response. I had to drive at 40 mph with 3000 rpm. Thank goodness I was no on a freeway. I got home, shut off the car and restart, everything was fine. I drove it for two days and shifting is normal. The only thing left is the "Service Engine Soon" light is on. I tried to read up what that meant but could not find anything in the manual.
If you have an answer, please share it.
Thanks.
I know this is a longshot Wanted to see if you fixed your issue same thing is happening to my car took it to the BMW dealership but could not figure out my issue all they did was charge me $500
 
This thread is several years old, so what problems are you having? I see the diagnostic code, but it could be caused by several things. Has the fluid ever been serviced, & how many miles are on the car?
 
There's 106k miles and I don't know if fluids been changed I bought it from auction what I do kno is I opened drain plug and nothing came out so I put three quarts in to fill it drove a little better then had same symptoms witch are stats off smooth from start then after I come to a stop then accelerate low rpm 2000 throws the fail safe and I hate it because it waist more gas in safe mode sorry for the late continued thread post
 
There's 106k miles and I don't know if fluids been changed I bought it from auction what I do kno is I opened drain plug and nothing came out so I put three quarts in to fill it drove a little better then had same symptoms witch are stats off smooth from start then after I come to a stop then accelerate low rpm 2000 throws the fail safe and I hate it because it waist more gas in safe mode sorry for the late continued thread post
If you removed the drain plug & nothing came out, you are 6.5 qts to refill the sump. Fluid can be added until it runs out the hole, but the plug should be put back in at that point. You then get the transmission pan to 100 F, then remove the plug, & start adding the rest of the fluid until it runs out again. If you get above 130 F on the pan, the fluid will then start puking out as the fluid has expanded at that point. You will need a pump that will add the fluid back in pretty fast, based on the time restraints you will have. A Hudson Bleach sprayer that holds 1.5 gallons work s very well. Another sprayer similar to this will work, but I do not know how long it will hold up. The exhaust pipe needs to be wrapped with a welding blanket, insulation blanket, or wet rags to keep from melting the plastic tube that will run across the top of the exhaust pipe, & into the fill hole. Have someone run the transmission in all gears, then idle the engine up to 2k rpm's to suck the fluid up, until it has been filled. Waste no time getting the fill plug back in as fast as possible, to keep from burning your hand, & the fluid temp getting above 130F making a huge mess. At 105k miles, I would remove the pan & change the Mechatronics adapter seal between the valve body & casing. When this seal starts hardening, the fluid will bypass the valve body, & the tranny will not shift correctly. There are 4 other tube seals that should be changed while the valvebody is out, & installing the valve body back in place. A PDF below will show the exact procedure to service the transmission, & hopefully get you back on the road. The seal parts are no more than 50.00, then 6.5 qts of fluid should go back in the casing. It's hard to say if you have damage, until you inspect the fluid for clutch & drum wear. The needed parts will be below, & what price to expect on an online BMW parts store. You will not find the parts at a local store, other than BMW.

 

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