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DailyDriver
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have been searching for a while, but am not able to come up with a failure/solution that I think is an exact match to this issue.

I recently had to do a complete coolant/heater hose refresh for my car. I removed the battery connection prior to the work. All is good now on that front, but my son opened the passenger door while we were doing the work and the battery was disconnected. Now the passenger door window will not budge when actuated by the window switch. It does not drop down when the door handle is lifted either. When the window switch is used, you can hear a click that sounds like a relay inside the motor unit. It is a model motor that was just used for a year from what I can tell.The best price I've found on it is $530...just the motor unit, not including the regulator. This is the part number on realoem. 67628360572
DRIVE UNIT RIGHT

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...1990_E36_BMW_325is&diagId=51_2055#67628360572

I removed the door panel and found that the regulator has already been replaced at least once. The plastic sliders look good and I don't see any misalignment with the parts. I cannot get the part of the regulator with the teeth that mesh with the motor to move one tiny bit. It is either the best fit ever without any slop, or maybe it is hung up. The installation looks well done on the regulator replacement, everything is tight and clean.

I just spent about $600 under the hood and would really like to avoid spending a comparable amount to get this window working. It seems like the failure mode points to something simple. The window had not given us any problems previously.

Does anyone have any debugging tips to provide? I'd really appreciate any help. I can take pictures if needed.

Thanks
 

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DailyDriver
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
So continued searching paid off. I did remove the regulator and motor from the door and find the motor does function both directions off the regulator. While the regulator sliders looked fairly clean when in the car, they are clearly sticky as is about every
part of the unit. I've given them a thorough cleaning and will install new oem sliders to try to restore function. If that fails when the unit is back on the door, I'll replace the existing regulator with a Dorman unit.
 

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D'oh, You Kids!
1984 633CSi, 1985 635CSi, 1985 325e, 1987 325is, 1993 325is, 1995 318is, 1995 M3, 2003 F150
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29,568 Posts
How much is the Dorman unit? Partsgeek.com has genuine BMW for $507 with a warranty and free shipping.
 

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DailyDriver
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for the response. I wasn't clear in my second post. I was able to get the motor running off the regulator once it took it off the car. This motor unit was replaced sometime after fall 95 as those are the mfg dates on the motor. I believe the regulator is currently a factory bmw part and probably the original part that was removed to replace the motor at some point fairly early in the car's life.

My sliders looked good in the rails, but once I got the regulator out and started trying to move stuff around it was clear that there was a lot of friction drag. I have cleaned off all the rails and ordered new BMW factory part sliders. I'll try to get the unit working with this fix as the regulator freed up nicely once I hit it with some carb cleaner and silicone lubricant. If it fails to operate properly then the next plan is to try the dorman regulator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IYU5MM/ref=ox_sc_sfl_image_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A38TS690VEVQYI

I should have my sliders in by Friday, so I'll update the thread with results. On a happy front, my work a couple of years ago to refresh the door panel attachments has held up well and there was no damage when I removed the panel. Hopefully the fix will hold up till I can get this window escapade completed!
 
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