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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1998 528i with a M52 engine and an automatic transmission. It has 125k miles and its production date is 01/98. Just recently it will shift from 1st to 2nd normally and 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th only after it reaches redline (5000 +). It is kind of annoying in city traffic driving around in 2nd at 4000RPM. I checked the fluid and it is full and clean (not burnt). I have a GT1 and there are no codes in the EGS(trans ECU) or the DME. There is a fault in the ASC/DSC for a front wheel speed sensor plausability but the speedometer are working normally. I searched for SIBs and this problem in the forums but I have not seen anything with the same problem. Any ideas? Any links? :mad:
 

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Does the shift indicator on the dash say D when this is happening. Seems like its stuck in sport mode. Or its F'd up. If it is acting like its in sport mode it may be a linkage problem. Or the computer may be bad, or an input sensor fooling the computer. You may get lucky with a battery reset for the computer. But there isnt really enough info to help much, besides guess.
 

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After parking the car and waiting about 1/2 hour--disconnect the battery terminals and then touch the two terminals together--that will discharge the system. Then hook the bat back up and test drive and see what you have. If that doesn't make the fix--I would make the wheel sensor fix and try again.
 

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97 M3, 11 1M,11 S4, 17 X1
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Hi NCJunglist,
Thanks for posting this info. I have a '97 with 130,000 miles and it just started doing the same thing. First we noticed an ABS warning light then the next day the car would not shift up unless we manually put the lever in 3rd then shifted it back to 4th. The trans would then upshift immediately. This happened in all gears I believe except first to second, but I have not checked that carefully yet. Please post what you eventually found the problem to be and what fixed it. What exact part was responsible and what were the costs? We appreciate the assistance.
 

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Hi everyone, just joined this genius site, what a way to give back. Passin on knowledge from one to everyone......I'm having the exact same problem as BlackMagic...
"First we noticed an ABS warning light then the next day the car would not shift up unless we manually put the lever in 3rd then shifted it back to 4th. The trans would then upshift immediately. This happened in all gears I believe except first to second, but I have not checked that carefully yet."

ANY suggestions or ideas would be very helpful, thanks everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I actually have another complete working spare car that was hit in rear but was totoled. It is the brother of the customers car I am working on. Both are 1998 528i autos. Swapped EGS trans computers and no fix. The ABS/ASC from the other car is working so I'll swap it to this car and see if the trans problem goes away.
 

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You can try a slow ATF change (not a flush).

- Drain ATF and refill it (about 3 qts or something like it). Search forum for detail.
- Drive 200-300 miles, then do the drain/refill again.
Do a total of 5 of these cycles of drain/refill over a course of 1500-2000 miles, now you have new fluid.
 

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97 M3, 11 1M,11 S4, 17 X1
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Just realized i had never posted my resolution to this particular issue. It was the front ABS wheel speed sensors. They resolved the problem with ABS lights and trans shifting issues. I installed PEX brand and they worked OK.
 

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97 M3, 11 1M,11 S4, 17 X1
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Well since January I now have new issues maybe someone will know how to resolve. I've spent hours and hours reading everything about abs,asc wheel speed sensor issues and have learned more than I ever thought I would need to know. But yet I still need support getting mine sorted out. Again its a '97 with Bosch 5.0 ABS. Most posts are written for the newer Bosch 5.7 system so I cannot completely determine my problems. Here's whats going on with some quick background. The car is very well maintained with no major repairs such as trans replacements, mileage is 135000 and trans normally shifts very well.

Over the past year it began showing the ABS and traction control lights when driven in the rain. The trans also would not shift up by itself, had to shift manually D-3-D. I replaced both front wheel speed sensors and all was fine for several months.

Last week we had a good snow storm with slushy salty roads and after driving that day the ABS and traction ctrl lights came on, but we now had other symptoms. The trans gear light came on, speedometer was on and off and the trans began shifting weird - driving along at slow speeds it would suddenly drop into first gear or it would fail to upshift out of first and the old trick D-3_D did not work, and it would start from stop in fourth gear needing lots of throttle.

What I did was replace both rear wheel speed sensors. The sensors I used up front were made by PEX, a German OEM supplier. Since they worked well I purchased PEX again for the rears and they looked indistinguishable from the original sensors. Well the only improvement I see is that the speedometer works. The trans still will not shift properly, the ABS system doesn't work and all the same lights are on. Oh, the gear indicator on the dash doesn't know what gear its in and bounces between 1st, N and 3 while its in D.

One thing I did that I am not sure is a good idea is prior to plugging in the new sensors I injected some dielectric grease into each connector hoping to ensure better electrical properties and some water/salt resistance. Any thoughts from you guys if that is an issue?

I checked the trans output speed connector and it was on securely, looked clean and the wiring looked good. I also checked the large connector for the trans gear position. That was in great shape also. I did inject some dielectric into both these trans connectors as well.

So what I don't understand is what it the most likely next offender? I have a Series II Peake tool and it doesn't read ABS faults. I have not yet had codes read at a shop.

Is it more likely my next step is the ABS controller inside the car or possibly a bad trans output speed sensor? Or as another poster indicated, he tried a couple of different brands of rear sensors and they would not work and I think he ended up back with OEM parts that did work.

What is the best scan tool to pick up that will read BMW codes? I do not have a PC so software for those are not options. I understand that getting the codes read is key but surely someone has successfully solved this trans shifting issue on a '97 and I can benefit form their learnings. Thanks.
 

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97 M3, 11 1M,11 S4, 17 X1
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After doing more searches and looking in a different direction it appears that the transmission shifting issues may be tied to the problem with the gear indication on the dash being wacky. Some posts indicate that is caused by a faulty trans position switch also known as range sensor or neutral safety switch. Does anyone know if this is the only or most likely cause of the wacky indications on the dash or can the wheel speed sensors cause this as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
To fix mine completely - replaced both front wheel speed sensors with OEM. Removed NSS range switch and cleaned it along with replacing seal on selector shaft that was leaking transmission fluid into sensor. Bought a used ASC control unit and an EGS transmission ECU and had not had any problems since - total cost about $250 including wheel speed sensors.
 

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97 M3, 11 1M,11 S4, 17 X1
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Trans Shifting Issue Solved 97 528i

OK I ordered a new Trans Position Switch that mounts on the side of the trans. When I removed the original one there is a 1.5" corrugated sleeve that the wiring passes thru. Well that had been split open a bit and let water in. When I touched it or twisted it lightly it disintegrated. Then I noticed the wiring passing thru it was totally degraded and the insulation was cracking and falling off. Three of the black conductors were severed. Some of the other conductors were bare. I cannot tell if the water had gotten into the actual housing were the contacts are. The new unit was installed and the gear indicator lights immediately were working correctly, so that problem is solved.

By the way, I ordered my new switch from BMW Lincoln, NE. Their service was great, I paid !03 shipping and it was FedExed so I had it two days later! Also their pricing was better than our usual vendors such as BavAuto, ECS. Price was 25% off the list for a net of $285. If you need parts, do yourself a favor and check them out.

Attached are pics of what the wiring looks like on my original GMC Eaton Position Switch. Also shown is the new switch and what the short corrugated sleeve should look like.
 

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Just for kicks and because mine looked worse than the one posted. I tore my switch apart and dremeled out all the wires. traced all colors for anyone who wants to know from left to right they are brown, white, olive green, black, green. the black wires werent used in mine. I soldered new wires and put heat shrink on all to seal up. Put two part epoxy over body where wires soldered to main terminals. Installed and everything worked great. Drove down road perfect. Got up this morning and had same issue but I never reset computer or anything so There it is. I was going to order switch anyway... I only did it to see if I could lol... sometimes it has to be done right
 

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I think I'm starting to experience the same issues, many times it won't shift from 2-3 until it goes to around 4000-5000 rpm. Sometimes it shifts "too quickly" from 3-4. It does shift from 2-3 sometimes if I let off the gas for a brief second.

I' have a ZF tranny, but I'm guessing I have the same type of trans position switch (or equivalent.)

In case I need to order a new trans position switch, do you guys know the part number? I can't seem to find it on RealOEM.
 
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