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2002 e39 530i
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I'm getting closer (I think) to solving my A/C problems. I recently discovered I could look at the A/C with INPA so I did and here's what I came up with. If anyone can shed some light on to what these errors are telling me (where to look) I'd greatly appreciate it.

ECU: IHKA39_5 JobStatus: OKAY Variant: IHKA39_5 -------------------------------------------------------------
RESULT: 3 errors in error memory ! -------------------------------------------------------------

10 AUC Sensor Error frequency : 255 Line interruption Error currently present Error code: 0A 44 FF 43 43 22 9C 41 10 03 92 -------------------------------------------------------------

32 water valve on the right Error frequency : 176 Short circuit against ground Errorcode: 20 02 B0 3F 3F AE DB 51 04 03 93 -------------------------------------------------------------

31 water valve left Error frequency : 254 Short circuit against ground Error currently present Error code: 1F 42 FE 32 32 63 D8 51 04 03 91 =================================================================
 

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The AUC is the hydrocarbon sensor that sniffs the air and switches the HVAC panel from outside air to recirculate if you have it set to the Auto mode. This isn’t your problem

The water solenoids are allowing hot engine coolant into the cabin so your AC can’t do it’s job properly.
The solenoids are normally open so if they can’t be PWM controlled by the HVAC panel the hot coolant just keeps coming in.
If you can pinch off the supply hose you should see the AC gets much colder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Jim.

So you're talking about the HCV on the drivers side fender well, right?
Would the AUC have anything to do with when I take the HVAC from auto to manual it gets hotter air on manual as well as max ac? I did that yesterday when the ac was on auto and the air was cool(ish) so I took it from auto to max and right away the air got warmer and did the same thing when I went to manual.

On a side note. I had the system leak tested and everything was fine. I did however have 4oz too much freon in the system which has been corrected.
 

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yes he is speaking of the HCV on the drivers side fender.
the AUC sensor only does its job when recirculation on the IKHA is set to the auto mode and the AUC sensor detects over its limit of hydrocarbons in the atmosphere. for the most part you wont even know its there cept that the code is set. it wont effect anything other than turning the flaps to recirculate when the vent flap is open and the detection is made.
to pinch off the HCV output to the heater coil, i use a pair of needle nose vice grips with the needle ends covered in the appropriate ID gas line. dont put the oomph in to tightening them down. there are radiator hose clamps that can be bought as well. how were they able to determine that the AC was overcharged by the weight of 4 oz of refrigerant?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
how were they able to determine that the AC was overcharged by the weight of 4 oz of refrigerant
I'm assuming the machine they used to vacuum the freon out of my system measures what it took out?
I'm no AC expert so that's only a somewhat educated guess.

If clamping off the inlet hose works, can I run it that way until I get a new HCV?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Look at the valve I'm not sure which hose would be the inlet. I was assuming it was the fitting on the single hose side but after looking at the valve it could be the bottom hose on the double hose side. Looking at realoem it only shows 2 and it appears both the hoses it shows go back to the heater core.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK, I looked at realoem again and found the 3rd hose. The bottom hose on the double side of valve looks to indeed be the inlet.
 

· Wingnut
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fcpeuro sells the FEBI brand HCV for about $100, there are rebuild kits out there for it, but the quality is questionable
sorry i should mentioned which hose earlier....youre correct
 

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If you need the one that has the pump/motor below the 2 solenoids I have an OE one from a 540 with all new seals.
 

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OK, the one with no motor/pump below the solenoids.
I bought the rebuild kit on eBay from some guy in Russia last year.

Have you pinched off the supply hose to see how much colder the AC gets?
In your link above it should be the one that connects to the port on the left side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Currently waiting on the car to cool down, taking longer than usual because it's freaking hot out lol

You say the port on the left side? You sure about that?

That pic is upside down but the 2 top ports (once flipped) both go to the heater core, the bottom port (top in pic) goes to the engine and should be the inlet. I'll know in a bit once things cool down. I already got my red neck produced needle nose vice grips with 2 pieces of cutoff bungee strap held on with gorilla tape ready to go.
 

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That’s a bit different than the 540.
So this is what you are saying. OK, makes sense.

Font Auto part Engineering Automotive super charger part Metal
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That's exactly how mine is routed.

So I clamped off the hose and the first time there was really no difference, tightened the grips up a bit and it seemed to get better, but when I put the ac on max the air went to the warmer side, same on manual. Then the grips fell off and I gave up, guess my ******* contraption needs more engineering. I checked the high side pressure (only gauge I have) and it was showing 52lbs with an outside temp of 93f and heat index of 105f so if my gauge is correct I'm still have too much freon.

Not sure what I hate most, electrical or ac.
 

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The worst problem I ever worked on was a 2007 X3 AC issue.
Found condenser fan fuse was in the wrong slot and HVAC controller havoc sending wrong signal to heater valve to open all the time. So, a used HVAC panel fix that issue, I was so....so happy after that fix.
 
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