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tappa tappa toit
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4,727 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks!!! WHile under my car, i noticed that my from CV boot is leaking!!! dammit!! There is grease all over the control arm joint.

Hey guys I wanna get my engine anatomy correct....
The water pump is right above the engine crankshaft pulley right? I found drops of coolant at the bottom of the crankshaft pulley, which leads me to believe the water pump was the culprit. Is this correct diagnosis? There is no coolant leak anywhere else except right below the water pump.
Also, I'm thinking I have hydraulic tensioners.. because I have so many different types and sizes of pulleys in there rather than just 5 in the realOEM mechanical pulley pic.
mechanical http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AW33&mospid=47728&btnr=11_2205&hg=11&fg=18
hydraulic http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AW33&mospid=47728&btnr=11_2190&hg=11&fg=18







 

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Living Life At The Beach
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3,809 Posts
The bottom of the water pump usually has a weep hole, and it leaks from there, or it could be leaking from the gasket/o-ring. It could be leaking from one of the hoses right at a connection, dripping on to the pulley, and following it to the bottom. My advice is to replace EVERYTHING while you are in there. You've been around here for a while and know the results of lack of cooling system maintenance. Take your time and you will be fine. Use a hair dryer to expand plastic parts that are tight, lubricate with coolant before installing. Stay close to home until you know everything is ok. Good luck!
 

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tappa tappa toit
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4,727 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The bottom of the water pump usually has a weep hole, and it leaks from there, or it could be leaking from the gasket/o-ring. It could be leaking from one of the hoses right at a connection, dripping on to the pulley, and following it to the bottom. My advice is to replace EVERYTHING while you are in there. You've been around here for a while and know the results of lack of cooling system maintenance. Take your time and you will be fine. Use a hair dryer to expand plastic parts that are tight, lubricate with coolant before installing. Stay close to home until you know everything is ok. Good luck!
Thanks for all the great info and the tips!!! I'm positive that they will really help me out a lot. I'm taking my sweet time with this lol...

So about the weep hole, is it normal for coolant to spill out of there or would that indicate a problem?

My main concerns are putting the belts back on properly, making sure the connections are secure to prevent coolant leaks, and being able to finish!!! hahahaha. And also bleeding it... I've heard of problems with people not bleeding correctly.

Good luck!

Moar pics! : popcorn:
Thank you!!! I'll try! I'm taking this day by day, unlike most ppl who would get it done in a few hours. I'm actually on spring break right now so I'm trying to meet up with a few friends I havent seen in ages to say hi and to relax too. and finish applications for school lol
 

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Noone Special
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684 Posts
You have coolant on the crank pulley, yes it is normal for when the water pump leaks from the weep hole or the seal; the thermostat leaks from the seal

The belt really only fits properly on one way. in order from crank pulley, crank pulley...power steering pulley.....up to the alternator....under the top idler pulley...across the water pump...looped around the tensioner pulley....back down to the crank pulley

Just snugg down the water pump 10mm, they will keep turning if you keep cranking on them. I hope your doing the thermostat and rad hoses as well, atleast I do. Usually with a good pump back in the car the next weakest thing pops in a month or so.

Bleeding is easy, crack the bleeding screw and run the car till the thermostat opens and the upper hose gets pressurized with the heat on full temp.
 

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tappa tappa toit
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4,727 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You have coolant on the crank pulley, yes it is normal for when the water pump leaks from the weep hole or the seal; the thermostat leaks from the seal

The belt really only fits properly on one way. in order from crank pulley, crank pulley...power steering pulley.....up to the alternator....under the top idler pulley...across the water pump...looped around the tensioner pulley....back down to the crank pulley

Just snugg down the water pump 10mm, they will keep turning if you keep cranking on them. I hope your doing the thermostat and rad hoses as well, atleast I do. Usually with a good pump back in the car the next weakest thing pops in a month or so.

Bleeding is easy, crack the bleeding screw and run the car till the thermostat opens and the upper hose gets pressurized with the heat on full temp.
thanks so much!
the rad hoses you mean the so-called upper and lower hose? i'm doing those as well.

but is it normal for the waterpump or the t-stat to leak like that? i'm guessing no...
 

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Noone Special
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684 Posts
You have coolant on the crank pulley, yes it is normal for when the water pump leaks from the weep hole or the seal; the thermostat leaks from the seal
Your right it is not normal for it to leak, but when it does leak it is normal for it to leak from the locations listed in the above post.
 

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tappa tappa toit
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4,727 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys. This confirms my theory that the coolant leak i found a couple weeks ago was from waterpump. Well, eveyrthing is coming out anyway... little by little LOL.

I'm using the graf pump!!!
 

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Living Life At The Beach
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3,809 Posts
Thanks guys. This confirms my theory that the coolant leak i found a couple weeks ago was from waterpump. Well, eveyrthing is coming out anyway... little by little LOL.

I'm using the graf pump!!!
If the belts are more than 2 years old, I don't recommend using them. If you do, you want to make sure they are rotating in the same direction as previously, so I hope you marked them! If you are replacing the belts, I recommend Bando belts. You can get them on Amazon, and they are not expensive. They are made of EPDM rubber that lasts a lot longer. Continental are OK, but will not last as long. I assume you are replacing the expansion tank too, which is a must. Take a look at the smaller hoses at the exp. tank as well, as the system is only as strong as the weakest link. I recommend you buy a new exp. tank cap as well. It is only around $15 and you will be pi$$ed if it fails and you are standing on the side of the road. It holds the pressure that allows the cooling system to perform at a higher pressure. Remember, you only want to do the labor once. I learned this the hard way in the past when I tried to go cheap and reuse parts. My mantra now is.... do it once, do it right. Lucky you have some nice weather coming. If it were me, it would be snowing!

As for the CV boot, do you have any idea how long it has been leaking? If more than a few weeks (and it looks it from the pics) I would just install a new half shaft. I believe oembimmer parts has them. Replacing just the boot is a losing proposition in my opinion, unless you caught it right away. If the car has a lot of miles on it, you might want to replace both half shafts and be done with it, as the other one is prob. almost done too. Going to be expensive for all of this, but much cheaper than a new car, and you know what you have. If you like the car, and it is good shape otherwise, bite the bullet and do it. JMHO
 

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tappa tappa toit
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4,727 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
hey guys, i just finished installing my entire cooling system!!! and the hydraulic tensioner and the idler pulley. and before that, O2 sensors and CPS.

i havent bled teh system yet, just filled the expansion tank and then i just started the car. well, for whatever reason it started smoke really badly!!! i only left it started for about 5 secs max. the smoke was thick and bluish gray. got me thinking oil... but it didnt do this before!!!

and i replaced the O2 sensors and CPS before doing the cooling system, and i drove the car for like 3 days after it. no such problems at all besides slow coolant leak.

any ideas? or could this be just because i didnt drive the car for so long? i left the car in my parents garage while i was away at school and came by whenever i can to work on it.
 

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Supporter of Bimmer Lore
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5,192 Posts
Blue smoke. Not good. Have you ever done the CVV on that car? Most suspected source of oil in cylinders and although doing the cooling system seems to keep you far and away from that infernal contraption, you never know....
 

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Seek to understand,^Value
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25,199 Posts
hey guys, i just finished installing my entire cooling system!!! ... it started smoke really badly!!!
This is just a wild guess because there is not enough information for me to make this assumption (yes, with all that entails) ...

But, perchance, did this sequence occur?

  1. Cooling system blew
  2. Driver drove a bit too far with overheated engine
    • Bad things happened in the engine (see below)
  3. Cooling system replaced
  4. Heavy smoke on exhaust
Again, I have no information supporting this ... but that is why I ask (it's a common scenario over in the E39 side of the house).

In those cases, the cooling system isn't the big problem anymore.

See details here:
- Combined advice for major decisions when a cooling system overheating caused suspected blown head gaskets, cracked heads, a warped block, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, and valve damage (0) (1) (2) (3) & advice given to people faced with similar blown engine problems (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22)
 

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tappa tappa toit
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4,727 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Blue smoke. Not good. Have you ever done the CVV on that car? Most suspected source of oil in cylinders and although doing the cooling system seems to keep you far and away from that infernal contraption, you never know....
Yeah I figured it was oil... smelled like it too. The CCVV was done last year, by an Indy whom I trust. Charged me alot of money for it too lol. All the hoses and the dipstick tube and everything was replaced.

This didnt happen before I started working on the cooling system... BUT, my engine does burn oil from time to time but nothing this extreme. My guess is that because my car has been sitting in the garage for so long, it was just burning whatever might have accumulated in there.

This is just a wild guess because there is not enough information for me to make this assumption (yes, with all that entails) ...

But, perchance, did this sequence occur?

  1. Cooling system blew
  2. Driver drove a bit too far with overheated engine
    • Bad things happened in the engine (see below)
  3. Cooling system replaced
  4. Heavy smoke on exhaust
Again, I have no information supporting this ... but that is why I ask (it's a common scenario over in the E39 side of the house).

In those cases, the cooling system isn't the big problem anymore.
Sorta, but not exactly... My cooling system developed a small leak, so I went ahead and replaced everything. I still had LOTS of coolant in the engine and the expansion tank was still in between the two balls on the stick. And the engine never overheated according to the needle in the dash.

This would just be terrible luck if the engine did indeed blow on me. Anyway, I cant get back to the till whenever, since I'm back at school lol. I still have to bleed it... and for some reason I could not get it to work properly.

So basically to bleed, you turn on the ignition, turn the heat up all the way, fan on low, and add coolant with the bleeder screw off? I did that and nothing was happening lol. I expected bubbles to come out but nothing did...

And how much am I supposed to add? Until the top of the expansion tank, past the "full" floating thing? I'm pretty confused about the bleeding process. :dunno: I only added until the float in the tank was showing "full" but now I'm not sure that was the right way to do it. I think I was supposed to add until the tank itself was full of coolant..
 

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Noone Special
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684 Posts
Open expansion tank, start your car, turn the heat up all the way, fan on low, open bleeder screw. Wiat for veh to warm up and thermostat opens(you can tell by the upper rad hose being pressurized) thern top off system till coolant is a steady stream out of the bleeder screw.close off the bleeder screw and top off expansion tank. Now what I do added to this is have someone rev up the veh to 2500 and then close off the bleeder screw. top off the expansion tank and your done.

Just curious about the smoke, was the smoke coming from under the hood or out the tailpipe?

If the smoke is coming from under the hood, it is normal from all the fluid you spilled during the repair you just performed.
 

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tappa tappa toit
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4,727 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks, will keep that in mind when I get to my car again. Smoke is coming from the exhaust.... which scares me kinda.

Also, when I was working on my car, I noticed that one of bolts that screw in the t-stat was not properly tightened. I know this because it was super loose compared to the other bolts Which were really tight. That really made me mad at whoever assembled my engine when I had it swapped in.
 

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Seek to understand,^Value
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25,199 Posts
From a quick /bleed(F3) in the VERY best of E39 Links, see the part highlighted in red below ...

- What to look for when your KTMP (1) or coolant temperature gauge indicates overheating (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) & what to look for in a perfectly normal E39 cooling system (1) & a picture of every failed part in the cooling system (1) & various techniques to properly bleed (1) (2) (3) & refill (1) & what coolant to use (1) & what parts to replace (1) & what special tools to make or buy (1) & how to tell how old your cooling system is (1) (2) & how to test the cooling system auxiliary electrical fan (1) (2) & the infamous fuse 75 (1) & the aux fan relay (1) & how to diagnose lack of HVAC/IHKA heater core heat with cooling system (auxiliary pump) at idle (1) & a Behr radiator and Behr/Heat expansion tank autopsy (1) (2) & request for another Behr surge tank autopsy (1) & why new made-in-China Behr/Hella expansion tanks are DOA (1) & E39 Fan shroud removal DIY (Besian) (M54) & some of the better cooling system DIYs (cn90 1997-1998 M54TU) (cn90 V8) (aioros '99-03 M54) (Ågent99 '01 530i) (pelican 3-series) (bluebee M54B25) & tricks to replace the fan clutch nut (1) & lower-hose thermoswitch o-ring (1) & to non-destructively remove the heater hoses (1) or radiator nipple (1) or expansion tank nipple (1) (2) or Oetiker clamp (1) or misplaced thermostat wiring loom (1) or broken bleeder screw (1) & modifying the cooling system (pressure cap) (zero psi fluids) or Zionsville (BlackBMWs) (William) (ohmess) aluminum radiators & what happens if you drive one mile too far with an overheated BMW cooling system (1).
 
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