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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 630i manual from a guy about 6 weeks ago that buys and sells cars, has a website etc. 63000 miles on the clock FSH and 2 previous owners.

I drive it rarely and have done probably under 200 miles. 70 of those bring it home.

About a week ago I had the Active Steering Fault come up.

A couple of things that could have a bearing.

a) I had a new tyre put in and steering alignment done a Kwik Fit. This was about 50 miles ago.

b) The guy fitted a new battery just before I bought it.

I have therefore tried/ looked at the following:

1) I used INPA and Tool32 to check that the battery type was correct. It was set to 110Ah which was correct so I just registered the battery. - No luck

2) I reset the error codes, the following is showing DME/DDE CD97 54. - any idea what this means? I have two other errors but thought this was most relevant.

3) I turned the ignition onto second click, turned the wheel full left and then full right, recentered, turned off engine, waited 10 seconds, turned on again - No luck.

4) Check power steering fluid level, just above max and it was a green colour so assume the correct type was used.

Is the next step to dismantle the steering and clean the sensor? I am slightly weary about this as I have very little experience of dismantling cars.

Anything else I can try?

Thanks from a newbie, hope the information is sufficient.
 

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Surely you've got some kind of warranty from the seller?

I'm sure they have to give you 3 months minimum. But some dodgy places will write 'trade only' to get out of this

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 

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Michael
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To reset the steering to you have to move from full lock to full lock a few times to reset with engine running. If you have not been using the car and not putting it on a battery charger to trickle charge, then you could have run down the battery to the point where it has insufficient charge. A poor battery on these cars will lend its self to all manner of random failures, they are so battery critical.
If you want to make the car reliable then really look after the battery, bizzare but so true. I believe that a poor battery management lends itself to causing other components to fail. As you are learning about the car read up the thousands of threads on the battery and associated components. IVM etc. Also look at transmission reset and the like. many forget these cars learn the driving profile of the driver and adjust accordingly, doing a reset resets the memory especially the transmission.
 

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I bought a 630i manual from a guy about 6 weeks ago that buys and sells cars, has a website etc. 63000 miles on the clock FSH and 2 previous owners.

I drive it rarely and have done probably under 200 miles. 70 of those bring it home.

About a week ago I had the Active Steering Fault come up.

A couple of things that could have a bearing.

a) I had a new tyre put in and steering alignment done a Kwik Fit. This was about 50 miles ago.

b) The guy fitted a new battery just before I bought it.

I have therefore tried/ looked at the following:

1) I used INPA and Tool32 to check that the battery type was correct. It was set to 110Ah which was correct so I just registered the battery. - No luck

2) I reset the error codes, the following is showing DME/DDE CD97 54. - any idea what this means? I have two other errors but thought this was most relevant.

3) I turned the ignition onto second click, turned the wheel full left and then full right, recentered, turned off engine, waited 10 seconds, turned on again - No luck.

4) Check power steering fluid level, just above max and it was a green colour so assume the correct type was used.

Is the next step to dismantle the steering and clean the sensor? I am slightly weary about this as I have very little experience of dismantling cars.

Anything else I can try?

Thanks from a newbie, hope the information is sufficient.
If you look at the Sticky on the main page for the 6 Series forum, you will see about every way possible to register the battery, find the one using INPA. IF the person that aligned the car did not have the proper software for a BMW, the steering angle is probably off. If his alignment rack can not account for this, tie the steering wheel down straight, & leave the engine running. This will keep the steering set properly.

If you have run your battery down, you will get a steering angle warning until you turn the steering wheel back & forth 3 times, with the engine running. Once you drive a few hundred feet, the problem should clear. Try all of the things mentioned before you pulled the steering sensor. If it was working before the alignment, it should be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
IF the person that aligned the car did not have the proper software for a BMW, the steering angle is probably off. If his alignment rack can not account for this, tie the steering wheel down straight, & leave the engine running. This will keep the steering set properly.

If you have run your battery down, you will get a steering angle warning until you turn the steering wheel back & forth 3 times, with the engine running. Once you drive a few hundred feet, the problem should clear. Try all of the things mentioned before you pulled the steering sensor. If it was working before the alignment, it should be ok.
Thanks for this. When you say tie steering wheel down and leave the engine running are you refering to when the steel alignment is done? I saw they clamped the steering wheel down. The guy did have to get his colleague over as he was getting 'odd' readings. The car was switched off.

I have run the battery down and had to jump start the car so i will try turning the wheel lock to lock three times with engine running.

Just to add, the car seems to drive fine
 

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Discussion Starter #6
To reset the steering to you have to move from full lock to full lock a few times to reset with engine running. If you have not been using the car and not putting it on a battery charger to trickle charge, then you could have run down the battery to the point where it has insufficient charge. A poor battery on these cars will lend its self to all manner of random failures, they are so battery critical.
If you want to make the car reliable then really look after the battery, bizzare but so true. I believe that a poor battery management lends itself to causing other components to fail. As you are learning about the car read up the thousands of threads on the battery and associated components. IVM etc. Also look at transmission reset and the like. many forget these cars learn the driving profile of the driver and adjust accordingly, doing a reset resets the memory especially the transmission.
I did have to jump the car and was getting battery errors prior to this, that's when i decided to register the battery and haven't had the battery light come up again. I have bought a solar powered trickle charger as i park the car on my drive. It's English winter so i'm not sure how effective it will be.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
3 times lock to lock with the engine on then driving 100yds didn't work. Now got an Engine Management Light too which is a new one on me. Also a battery charging error came on.

Maybe time to buy a multimeter?
 

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Michael
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Did you fully charge the battery first??? If not then do this first, unless the battery is now so dead it will not hold a full charge. As mentioned even small variances in voltage create issue, Cannot stress enough about the battery condition on these cars!!!
Start here first don't dive in until you know you have a good battery!!! Remember you need and AGM type battery with the correct amper/hour rating!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Did you fully charge the battery first??? If not then do this first, unless the battery is now so dead it will not hold a full charge. As mentioned even small variances in voltage create issue, Cannot stress enough about the battery condition on these cars!!!
Start here first don't dive in until you know you have a good battery!!! Remember you need and AGM type battery with the correct amper/hour rating!
I left the car running for 30 mins then went for a 10 minute drive before i did it, not sure if that's enough. I will go round my father inlaws tomorrow and get my battery charger back off him and charge the battery fully. I know it's 110Ah battery, i'll check to see what else i can assertain.

The battery is apparently new according to the dealer. I have registered it using tool32 after checking it was set as the right rating using INPA.

I am now more concerned about the quite severe vibration when idling and the fact that when i accelerate now it is quite jolty, i also think i can detect a knocking noise from the back of the block that i didn't before the Engine Management Light came on.
 

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Michael
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i am afraid that running the car will not help in this instance, a full battery charge overnight to capacity will set the bench mark. The electronics on these cars are very fickle if the battery is not in top condition. As I mentioned just read the posts not all, about the battery. I have the latest 6 series and still look after the battery. So if your car is not going to be a daily driver, then trickle charge is necessary. Even though the battery is new if it has been allowed to run down to zero this will potentially be an issue, plus you might as well learn now ! Nothing is cheap on these cars, putting cheap batteries in will seldom work. Hopefully a long charging cycle will recover the battery if it is comparatively new. Once done start from there, do the steering reset etc. As HerbP mentioned, hopefully they have done setup correctly. Find yourself a decent independent, with the correct tools and test tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks, this is my battery, does it look the right type?

And i need to charge it from the points under the bonnet, that's correct?

20191230_173314.jpg
 

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Michael
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As much as I can see it is a BMW battery, it can have the year of manufacture on it so then you can see if it is relatively new??? What year is your car? plus they don't have the 630 in the States, but have to say that the engine is pretty well bullet proof if looked after, check its MOT history just for knowledge!
Realised you said manual so you cannot do a transmission reset, there are other things you can do, but you will have to do a bit of digging to find!!
Since you are new to the forum there are some really knowledgeable guys willing to help Hsurf, HerbP and many others, it is probably the best forum around and they don't take crap if you get my drift.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks, it's a 2005 car. I will charge the battery tomorrow night and take things from there.
 

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I suspect that you battery is so low on voltage, that the engine can not run properly. Once the voltage gets below 12 volts, the engine will spit & sputter, & also turn off. I think you are way below 12 volts. I would charge the battery for a good 24 hours, then wipe all of your codes. Hopefully everything will be good once the battery is above 12 volts. The 2005 came with a lead cell battery, I don't know if you upgraded to the AGM. There is a place in Tools32 to change to the AGM if you have not done that. If you have ISTA, it can be done much easier in one program, as it is the newer BMW platform software. You can measure your voltage at the jump terminal with a VOM if you want to see where the battery voltage is? Turn the ignition on without cranking the engine, & turn the headlights on. Then measure the voltage, it should be above 12 volts.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Apologies if this is a daft question but should I be charging via the connectors in the engine bay, direct to the battery in the boot or remove the battery completely from the car?

My garage is currently full of stuff as e recently moved house so I will have to run the charger from the garage to the car outside.

Thanks for all your assistance with this.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Fyi I have just ordered an AGM battery charger on Amazon so will need to wait for this to be delivered. I was unaware that my normal charger wouldnt do the trick
 

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Apologies if this is a daft question but should I be charging via the connectors in the engine bay, direct to the battery in the boot or remove the battery completely from the car?

My garage is currently full of stuff as e recently moved house so I will have to run the charger from the garage to the car outside.

Thanks for all your assistance with this.
Charge the battery from the jump terminal under the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
So i've charged the battery for 30 hours, it is now reading 100% and when the engine is off reading 12.7V. It is definitely an AGM battery, i looked up the BMW part code on the battery S: 61216818062, i charged the battery using AGM setting. It has a date on it of 11/12/18

I took the car for a short drive, pulled over, turned the wheel left to right three times then centred and drove 100yds, the active steering error did not go off, i also noticed that at full lock the car dips, is this normal?

Also when i turn the car on the engine sounds normal but one warmed up there is a serious knocking/ clacking noise from the rear of the block and under acceleration it shudders.

I saved the ECU error codes after the drive and also after i cleared the errors using INPA, if posting the file would be helpful then let me know.

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I will check to see if the setting has been changed to AGM, the ECU was update to show 110 so i'd assume so but you never know.

I am beginning to feel a rather heafty bills coming up. Does anyone know a good honest specialist in Essex, UK?
 

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the DME/DDE CD97 54 code is for the active steering fault. I would take it back to the person that did the alignment, & have them align the car with the engine on. Tie the steering wheel down straight. If they have a computer alignment rack, their system should show everything on the alignment sheet when done.

As far as the other codes, post them where we can see them. Did the car run like this before you purchased the car. The AGM should be entered into tools32, but it will not bother anything. Try unplugging the MAF sensor, & see if the engine runs better? If it does idle better, it will be lacking some power this way, but should run smooth going down the road. Lets start here, & see if we make progress.
 
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