BimmerFest BMW Forum banner

1 - 20 of 170 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I thought I'd start a thread to document the maintenance, upgrades and what not of my daughter's recently purchased 2006 X3 3.0i. It's the first car she purchased with her own money. While Daddy still being the Designated Mechanic, of course... :p

I bought her a 2001 330i when she was 17 and it was agreed at the time that it will have to take her through college. It was an awesome car until about a year ago when the expansion tank cap failed while driving 75mph on the hightway and she wasn't able to stop immediately. Unfortunately she severely overheated the engine and it was toast.

I borrowed her my 2000 323i Touring while she was saving for a replacement while also working on her Master's degree in Architecture which she will be finished with in about six months. When done, she'll actually be one of the, if not THE, youngest Architects in the state of Texas.

Anyway... Enough about the background and on to the topic at hand.

So..., with my guidance and inspection she settled on a one owner Black Sapphire Metallic 2006 X3 with Premium Package, black leather, dark wood, adaptive Xenons etc. Came with original window sticker and some maintenance records (new TC actuator motor at a dealer a few years ago etc.) even though it was bought at a small local dealership. Didn't really want to buy from a dealer, but oh well...

It has 179K miles, so a bit n the high side, but it seemed to be well taken care of, has brand new Michelins and, most importantly, the price was right. So on my recommendation she went for it.

Yesterday I did the first major service on it. Changed oil/oil filter/air filter/cabin air filter and installed AUX connector in the cubby on top of the dash. While I was under the car, I also checked all boots, rubber joints etc. and everything looked pretty well taken care of. No leaks to be seen, either.

As for the future plans, I'll do the usual M54 cooling system refresh in the next few months as well as at least transfer case and rear end fluid changes. Tranny fluid change is still up in the air, but with these things is one the "damn if you do, damn if you don't" things, so we'll see...

All of this is also dependent on my daughter's budget, too, as she will be the one mostly paying for the stuff.

A couple of pics attached and more story and maybe also pics to come when things progress. Found quite a bit of helpful info here already and looking forward to finding more and also potentially contributing some.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
I thought I'd start a thread to document the maintenance, upgrades and what not of my daughter's recently purchased 2006 X3 3.0i. It's the first car she purchased with her own money. While Daddy still being the Designated Mechanic, of course...

I bought her a 2001 330i when she was 17 and it was agreed at the time that it will have to take her through college. It was an awesome car until about a year ago when the expansion tank cap failed while driving 75mph on the hightway and she wasn't able to stop immediately. Unfortunately she severely overheated the engine and it was toast.

I borrowed her my 2000 323i Touring while she was saving for a replacement while also working on her Master's degree in Architecture which she will be finished with in about six months. When done, she'll actually be one of the, if not THE, youngest Architects in the state of Texas.

Anyway... Enough about the background and on to the topic at hand.

So..., with my guidance and inspection she settled on a one owner Black Sapphire Metallic 2006 X3 with Premium Package, black leather, dark wood, adaptive Xenons etc. Came with original window sticker and some maintenance records (new TC actuator motor at a dealer a few years ago etc.) even though it was bought at a small local dealership. Didn't really want to buy from a dealer, but oh well...

It has 179K miles, so a bit n the high side, but it seemed to be well taken care of, has brand new Michelins and, most importantly, the price was right. So on my recommendation she went for it.

Yesterday I did the first major service on it. Changed oil/oil filter/air filter/cabin air filter and installed AUX connector in the cubby on top of the dash. While I was under the car, I also checked all boots, rubber joints etc. and everything looked pretty well taken care of. No leaks to be seen, either.

As for the future plans, I'll do the usual M54 cooling system refresh in the next few months as well as at least transfer case and rear end fluid changes. Tranny fluid change is still up in the air, but with these things is one the "damn if you do, damn if you don't" things, so we'll see...

All of this is also dependent on my daughter's budget, too, as she will be the one mostly paying for the stuff.

A couple of pics attached and more story and maybe also pics to come when things progress. Found quite a bit of helpful info here already and looking forward to finding more and also potentially contributing some.
Congratulations.

Sent from my HTC Desire 816 dual sim using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Black on black in Texas? Masochist!
LOL!!! :rofl: She did want one with tan leather, but since there weren't too many to choose from, she settled with her second choice. She parks in car port at her apartment and in a parking garage at work, so the car spends most of the time in shade.

If she goes shopping for hours on end and leaves it in direct sunlight, then that's her problem. :p

My wife's Tahoe is also black on black and I don't think it's that much hotter really than her Escalade (pearl white on tan) was. As long as there's good tint on the windows and the AC works, that's about all you need.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Daughter did a 300+ mile road trip over the weekend with the X3 and all was well said the report. :D Let's hope the streak continues...

Except that she said first the AUX wasn't working properly with her phone, but her fiance was able to track it down to a faulty cheapo AUX cable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Well whaddaya know... First SES light popped up yesterday. Her fiance checked it and, not surprisingly, the code was P1071. No P0174, though, but I still went ahead and ordered a brand new intake elbow. Pretty sure that'll take care of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Guess I***8217;ll continue here...

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1141361

As mentioned in the thred above, my daughter might have gotten a bit overzealous when she called and said the car wasn***8217;t right this past weekend. Better safe than sorry, though. I don***8217;t mind spending a few bucks on gas and trailer if it saves her potentially thousands.

Anyway... Will have the TC fluid and the gear here tomorrow, but changing them might have to still wait another day or two. Will also finally change the elbow I***8217;ve had almost two months now. Hope that***8217;ll take care of the lean codes.

As somebody suggested in the above thread, I measured battery voltage today and IMO it is a bit on the low side (11.8V when cold and 13.8V while running), but I guess not low enough to cause any gremlins. Right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
tsuintx,

What procedure did you use to measure the voltage when cold? I learned the hard way as I was worried about mine showing 12.17 to 12.21 when cold, but at the same time, I later found out that my procedure for checking the voltage wasn't correct. I was going out, unlocking it, popping the hatch, and then opening the compartment to test the voltage and then it would test at 12.17 to 12.21 after sitting for a week. The correct way is to allow the car to go to sleep for about 20 minutes and then my readings jumped up to 12.53 or better. I was also told to use the hood access so the lights aren't drawing on battery. While mine is running, I get 14.2 or better. So it does make a difference if you allow your car to go to sleep first before testing the cold voltage. I am old school and never had to allow a vehicle to go back to sleep, but this procedure works great on my X3. Have a great night
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
just tip to save time when changing the tc gear....you dont have to remove the exhaust or anything else....with the right extensions and patients you can get it all out without added work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
just tip to save time when changing the tc gear....you dont have to remove the exhaust or anything else....with the right extensions and patients you can get it all out without added work.
44Cents,

When I did the transmission service I saw how easy it will be and nothing will need to be moved at all for TC case service or the TC gear. What is the best replacement gear for this TC? I have seen so many when I searched and don't want to be back under there in a year doing it again as I prefer parts that last. Is there crush washers on both plugs that needs to be replaced? Thanks for your assistance and have a great day. :thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
I seen videos where they removed a bunch of stuff after pulling the heat shield back which I just thought was alot of extra work. Anyway, I bought the $11 carbon fiber cheap one from Amazon. I figured if it broke it wasnt too bad to get in there and do another one but my logic is probably skewed. I have but a few thousand miles on it and quite a few months with no issues at all. Maybe I got lucky. Ive heard of some going to the metal version and that scared me a bit only because Id rather have the carbon fiber one break then something else more expensive or hard to fix....again my skewed logic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
The correct way is to allow the car to go to sleep for about 20 minutes and then my readings jumped up to 12.53 or better. I was also told to use the hood access so the lights aren't drawing on battery.
Interesting. I measured it the old school way, just like what you described: open the hatch, open the cover and the measure. Car had been sitting for almost two days.

Guess I'll try another method and see if it changes anything. Gotta love these things and their finicky traits when it comes to voltage. Therefore I personally will stay with just old school German cars that are made before the 90s. My 98 S420 already has way too many electronics.

just tip to save time when changing the tc gear....you dont have to remove the exhaust or anything else....with the right extensions and patients you can get it all out without added work.
Definitely not taking out anything I don't have to. I've watched a couple of videos and read some DIYs, so I should be good to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
tsuintx,

I am an old geezer who has enjoyed working on car, but this X3 is something totally different. I never thought about going out and opening the hood and testing after it goes to sleep. Even today, I went out to test just to see what it has dropped to. So, I unlocked it, popped the hood, and tested right away and my voltage was 12.26, so I left the hood open for 30 minutes and went back outside to test again and it was 12.64. Technology had me so freaked when my first testing had showed 12.17 to 12.21 before I found out I had to let the car go to sleep. I keep learning new things everyday, especially with my wifes X3. I still like my old trucks, but her X3 is definitely a nice ride with some great gas mileage. Have a great day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Decided to give the TC actuator gear a try today. Not sure what the hell I’m doing wrong, but so far it sure hasn’t been such smooth sailing like so many people make it out to be. Looked so easy on the video where thy guy did it on the X5... :rolleyes:

First were the damn bolts to get the motor out. There’s just no friggin room whatsoever to get tools AND hands in there. What a pain that was but I did get it out. So far so good, right?

Sure... The next issue is to get the plate off to expose the gear and the worm drive. What the hell am I looking at here? Looks almost like that thing is not even designed to come out of there. :confused: I’ve already broken the tips of a couple of precision screwdrivers and one knife while trying to pry it out but that thing ain’t budging. :dunno:

Any suggestions?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,570 Posts
Did you remove the crossmember? Then lowering the TC/trans gives more room. Also the dust shield has to be bent out of the way.

On getting that cover plate off, I had to get creative. The housing is fairly soft pot metal, so a light tapping with a punch can push out the dimpled-in places. On one I had to take a very small chunk of the housing off -- toward the motor where dust won't get in -- to get a screwdriver under the lid (that wants to bend, but don't!). I then used a bit of sealant to fill that small hole when reassembling.

If you want to remove the motor from the housing, after removing its mounting screws carefully pry loose its plastic (black?) base from the gear housing -- don't just yank on the motor or you will pull the windings out (motor's case separates from that plastic mount) and release the brushes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
tsuintx,

I did help a friend do one of these. If you noticed, there is 10 dimples that are pushed in from the outside of the case. Yes, it is minimal, but we took a flat tip screwdriver and hammer and pushed those 10 areas towards the outside and it came apart really easy. Once we put the gear in, we then pushed the 10 dimples back in. Hope this helps and have a great day.:thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Finally got it out, but what a ****show that was. Hope it***8217;s not gonna let too much crap in there now that it***8217;s back in there. Had to REALLY pry on that sucker... Used a hammer and a screwdriver to tap it back as far in as possible. We***8217;ll see...

And now that I***8217;ve done twice the removal and installation, I***8217;m much faster in working the motor in and put. Yes, TWICE!!! Twice due to stupid me who left the washer and C-clip out the first time. Already cracked open a cold one to celebrate job well done when I noticed those two just sitting there. LOL!!!

Anyway... It***8217;s now in there and done. Was thinking about changing also the TC fluid, but that will have to wait till tomorrow. I***8217;m done for the day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
850 Posts
Those two 90degree corners are your best places to pry the the plate off.



It was a nightmare for me too!!!

But be consistent, take breaks, drink water, use soft force, and again, be patient! This was a monster for me!


Yours still look far better than mine! I almost destroyed that plate!

Keep going! You are on the good direction!






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
850 Posts
This is how I did it in my X5:

Many thanks to the OP, I fixed my problem too! Although it was not fully free!

Been driving a 2009 X5 3.0 (E70) 90k miles, noticed the triad, DSC DTC and Parking brake lights ON. Took me a couple of months to take it to the dealership….. charged me $180.00 for diagnostics, and reported their diagnostics: Transfer Case Actuator Motor…… After a quick research I was reading how I can possibly fix it for free.

Purchased the required wrenches, jack stand, U-joint socket, and the actual GEAR! The black plastic gear that is on sale for $10.00 on Ebay!

Watched a video on Youtube of this guy who performed it with minimal tools and jack stands! And performed the job on a weekend.

QUICK & Dirty Procedure:

Objective: Remove and repair/spin the actuator gear for 180 degree!

Required materials: U-joint socket, 17 and 18 mm wrench, Wheel Ramps, plenty of patience!

Optional, but recommended tolls: A general set of socket wrenches, Jack stand to support the bracket, Wheel chocks.

Procedure:

1-Drive your front wheels on the wheel ramps. Prevent the car from rolling by chocking the rear wheels. Safety first!

2-Remove the underneath covers.

3-Jack up the jack (but do not lift up) the bracket supporting / covering the transfer case.

4-Remover the 6 bolts holding the bracket.

5-Using your U-joint socket and your wrench, remove the actuator motor bolts. The forth one is a little difficult to remove! Be patient, drink plenty of water, take a break, and you can remove it!

6-Once the actuator motor is removed, gently detach the cylinder shape part.

7-Once the above actual electrical part removed, you can now see the black gear that is worn out!

8-You have two options: 1 try to remove the black gear and replace it! Not Easy At All!!!

9-Or you can spin it 180 degree so you can see the intact teeth are visible and exposed!

10-Re-assemble the actuator motor, re-assemble the transfer case, re-assemble the supportive bracket. Put the underneath covers back.

11-You are done!

12-Start the engine. No lights ON!

13-You saved $2800.00

Need help, or have a question? Ask, I will respond.

I rate this procedure's difficulty 6 out of 10. Mostly because there is not enough room to remove the forth bolt, also because the bracket is heavy enough to exhaust your muscles after removing the bolts.

Few weeks later, I got the light again, stopped the engine, restart it, they were gone, and never came back again.

Next time I see the lights, I would perform the repair and would replace the gear this time, since last time I only span it, and did not actually replace it.

Once more, many thanks to the OP!

PS. The dealership quoted me a total of ~$2800.00 to fix this.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 170 Posts
Top