Bimmerfest BMW banner

1 - 20 of 43 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
316 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Tonight I was working on removing the CCV. I started by stripping the first two :mad: (Drivers top and center top) I bought the advised tamper proof T30 torx bit and used one hand to hold it as firmly as I could into the bolt/screw. I think I am about to get it and I feel a bit of motion.. and crack! I think I cracked it loose!...but as evidenced by all the metal shavings on the bit :tsk: ...I just stripped the heck out of it. The alloy used in those bolts it terribly soft.

In most of the write ups on this that I have read people usually had a real struggle with one bolt...not all of them. I eventually removed the top three and the passenger side bottom with vice grips. These easily bit into the soft metal. However, the other three are not able to be gripped by the vice grip.

How the heck have you guys gotten these off?? These soft bolts strip with so little force.

I also had to cut off the hose going to the CCV from the brake check valve. (aka jet sucking pump) part no 11-61-1-440-135. Then trying to pull this destroyed hose off the end of the jet sucking pump, I broke it in half. :banghead: (it separated at a seam)

This is all a great distraction from the THREE bolts still in the bottom.

Back to the point.... How have you guys had success in removing these?

Thanks!

Preston
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,998 Posts
Am about to tackle the same job Preston, from what I have read, if it is going that badly consider taking the manifold off. Apparently it isn't to hard to get off, then getting the ccv off is a no brainer. You need a few more gaskets, I'd replace the intake gaskets, etc, but you will end up getting the job done. Some I've seen suggest this is the way to do the job anyway.

doc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
316 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I may have to. But I'm going to try everything else I can come up with first! Over my lunch break I'll be heading to the Big Tool Store and maybe Lowe's to see if they have any screw extractors that might work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,998 Posts
I just picked up a kit from Lowe's, it has a bunch of bits including torque a T30 and a small ratcheting wrench w a very slight angle on the drive heads. Looks like it will be perfect for reaching the bottom fasteners and also picked up some penetrating oil. Going to soak it down good with the oil before I try and crack the torques lose.

doc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
316 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I ended up getting a few small vice grips with different shaped grips. I also bought a screw extractor that I think might end up being magical! The crazy thing about these screws/bolts is that once the break loose they are finger loose. When I install the new ones I'll probably use some anti-seize in case I get to come back and visit this part again.
 

·
Older than old school
Joined
·
4,461 Posts
I recall others saying they've addressed this issue by replacing the Torx bolts with hex-head cap screws (for Allen-type wrenches).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Sorry I can't offer any wisdom on removing stripped screws. All mine came out OK!

What I did do was to replace the original screws with "normal" hex socket head screws, the black ones rather than stainless ones. This makes them a lot easier to tighten/loosen as there's little chance of stripping them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,998 Posts
Good thought, I learned some of my mechanical work from a navy chief who taught me, never put in a bolt dry. it either gets lock tite or anti-seize. I'll put mine back with anti-seize. Going to a flanged bolt instead of the torques also looks to be a good idea.

doc
 

·
Older than old school
Joined
·
4,461 Posts
...What I did do was to replace the original screws with "normal" hex socket head screws, the black ones rather than stainless ones. This makes them a lot easier to tighten/loosen as there's little chance of stripping them.
Haha, case in point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,998 Posts
Ya, this is going to be a beast. Got 2 of the torques out. MAN are they in there tight!!!! Someone had already stripped the upper drivers side torque. I had to use some very small vice grips to get it out. Going to go down to the store and see if I can't pick up 7 hex head bolts while the car is still running. I don't want to ever face these guys again! Would be interested in why these were chosen to go in here instead of bolts.

doc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,998 Posts
Got 6 of the 7 out, bottom one has stripped on me. Guess I'll face it in the morning. That kit from Lowe's really helps. If I hadn't stripped that bottom one I'd be putting it back together right now. I think it is the easiest of the hard bottom ones that is stripped, perhaps I can get creative w it tomorrow. Sure hate to have to pull the manifold at this point. Wonder if I could clean it w brake cleaner spray and jb weld the T30 on it then slip the little wrench over the t30 and bring it out. Tomorrow. It's beer 30 now. :)

doc
 

·
Older than old school
Joined
·
4,461 Posts
Good luck. Removing the intake manifold isn't a terrible fate, but it should include new gaskets for the intake ports.
 

·
Under the lift arms
Joined
·
12,914 Posts
dont take off the mainfold!..

Its not that bad of a job.. you just need the proper tools..

also replace your suck jet, the hose to the sj and all the vacume lines that go to the ccv.

I did mine in about 45 min, you need a 3/8 drive mini wratchet (will look like a 1/4 drive ) a 1/2" exstension (length)

aiti seize is bad stuff... The oil burns off with heat, leaving paste which turns to concrete.. Insted spray the bolt with something like amms oil heavy duty chain protector, will handle the heat way better for much much longer

i also have a allen wrench set (that has torx on it) but i found it eaiser with the wratchet.....

This job isnt that hard at all.. Id recommend some good knee pads or some sort of something to put on the heads.. put your knees on the two heads.. and your head down there in the whole... it shouldnt take you that long... it might draw blood though,, but thats normal
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,998 Posts
Wasn't bad until I stripped the very last torque. Now it's bad. Going to try and get some vice grips on it tomorrow. If that doesn't work I'm going to get some JB weld and try and jb the t30 bit on to the screw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,953 Posts
The hole in the torx bolt isn't that deep. It's usually got some dirt packed in it which prevents the bit from going in all the way, this makes it easy for you to strip the torx hole. I use a pick to clean out the hole, take the bolts out and throw them away.
M6 x 1.0 x 25 hex head bolts go back in, you'll never have a problem getting them out. Anti-seize paste is fine, it doesn't get hot enough back there, use the sliver stuff.

Preston, did you get your blower fixed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
316 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
MKJS I'm glad you are having better luck than I! I worked on it for about an hour tonight and managed to get 1 more of the remaining three off.

I wish I had seen that video S420 posted earlier this week. Has anyone else tried that method and been successful?

Jim, I haven't! I ended up with several others things going much more wrong. I've been trying to get Safelite out with the correct windshield for a couple weeks now and they finally came and installed the new BMW marked OE windshield ($740-not too bad-not what I insisted on I requested OEM but apparently the OE is the only glass with the proper rain sensor) on Wednesday, and of course this past Saturday the CCV and fan clutch broke. So I will hopefully get with your contact and install the blower motor in the next month or so. I also was a very bad boy a couple weeks ago and ordered the Dynavin N6. :D So, Mr. BMW has taken a lot of my money the last few weeks!

This repair is making me feel like a fool! :loco: Between the torx screws that are fighting to the bitter BITTER end and antique hoses that I keep finding and deciding I need to replace I might just be working on this for another whole week.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
795 Posts
MKJS I'm glad you are having better luck than I! I worked on it for about an hour tonight and managed to get 1 more of the remaining three off.

I wish I had seen that video S420 posted earlier this week. Has anyone else tried that method and been successful?

Jim, I haven't! I ended up with several others things going much more wrong. I've been trying to get Safelite out with the correct windshield for a couple weeks now and they finally came and installed the new BMW marked OE windshield ($740-not too bad-not what I insisted on I requested OEM but apparently the OE is the only glass with the proper rain sensor) on Wednesday, and of course this past Saturday the CCV and fan clutch broke. So I will hopefully get with your contact and install the blower motor in the next month or so. I also was a very bad boy a couple weeks ago and ordered the Dynavin N6. :D So, Mr. BMW has taken a lot of my money the last few weeks!

This repair is making me feel like a fool! :loco: Between the torx screws that are fighting to the bitter BITTER end and antique hoses that I keep finding and deciding I need to replace I might just be working on this for another whole week.
Yes, but be extra careful when you pry out the cap, don't break the 3 tabs on the old or the slot on the new cap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,998 Posts
WOW what an easy solution to this problem!!! I'm going to try and get that last t30 out this am and if I fail (oh I don't like that word!!) I'm going to just put in 6 new hex head bolts then swap the caps and be done with it.

doc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,953 Posts
Might help to heat the cap up first to soften the plastic so it doesn't break when prying on it.
 
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
Top