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OH YESSSS!!! Irwin part #39002 Bolt Grip socket took that bad dog down in less than 30 sec. (Got a set of them from Advanced Auto Parts $20) It's a kind of revers screw extractor that is like a short socket but has teeth that grip the outside of the "bolt" instead of the inside, and like a screw extractor is threaded in revers so that as you apply normal "lefty losey" it grips and pulls the torque right out!!! I was able to use the long handled 3/8's ratchet with the Irwin "socket" on it and about 30 sec later had the torque in my hand. I think this tool could be used with a long handled 3/8s ratchet and have the whole thing out nearly as quickly as that guy does in the vid changing only the diaphragm, with no worries about stripped torques.

OK, now to put the new one in with normal bolts this time, and have it back on the road.

doc
 

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I should have also mentioned them, I have a set of metric and SAE bolt grip, got them from Sears a few years ago.
Nice sharp teeth on those buggers.
 

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I had never seen one of those before! Very cool!! Made short work of that stripped torque.

I'm waiting on another box of M6 1.0 x 25 bolts to finish the install. Advanced has told me they will be in about 2pm, from there should only take me about 15 min to finish the job. Have 4 of the 7 in and the ccv lightly snugged down.

How's it coming Walkinator??? If you're still working on stripped torques I think the bolt grips may just get you out of deep water.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I finally got it removed a few minutes ago!! :banana: (I may have done a dance like that...)

I basically did this the most ghetto way possible. I took a chisel and hammer and chipped off all the plastic parts on the back that were in my way. Then I had clearance to use my vice grips and quickly remove the last two.

I am decently concerned by what I have found. The diaphragm didn't seem to be torn in any area. However, the whole CCV on the inner side is covered with gritty oil. I have checked some pictures of others that are much cleaner on the inside.

Here are some pics. Let me know what you guys think...
 

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I was getting it all back in until that last stinking bolt, the one that was stuck coming out is cross threading going back in!!! Glad you got yours out. I had thought about chipping away the plastic too but was concerned about damaging the plastic manifold. The bolt grip worked great to get out the stripped torque. Now with a cross threaded bolt I'm still in deep.

My tap and die set got messed up in the last move I made, not sure I have that tap anymore. I may have to go buy a new set.

I'm wondering if you might have a car that someone used cheep oil or just kept putting oil in when it had a bad leak. I'm thinking the inside of your engine may look like the inside of the ccv valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The fun goes on and on. Good luck! I haven't attempted to put mine back together. I figured I should come in here and get my sunday school lesson prepared before I get distracted and forget.

Can you tell me if your CCV on the inside looked like mine? Or was your cleaner?
 

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Mine was clean. Haven't looked for any tears, was just so happy to have it out I put it in with the dog poop that I cleaned out of the yard. :)

Not sure how to handle the cross thread yet. I ran a different bolt up there, a new one and it still cross threaded. Going to look for my taps and see if i can fix it. A short one might also work.


UD-DATE
OK, have it all done. Was able to get a new bolt and give it a better start and it went right in. Hooked up all the hoses, gave it a good look over, and took it for a test run. NO PROBLEMS!! Now, lets see if the smoke issues are all gone. They were only present when restarting the motor after a high way run so I will have to wait a couple of hrs then restart and see if it is indeed all better now. If all is well I'm going to put in new plugs tomorrow.

Conclusion: In retrospect, I see few reasons to do it any other way than simply changing the diaphragm by popping off the cover like they guy did it in the video above. The possible exception likely being needing to change the hoses. Even at that, the hoses can be changed without removing the torque bolts. The frame of the ccv valve does not fail or crack, the large vertical gasket does not seem to ever fail, so why bother to change any of it except the diaphragm which can conveniently and quickly be popped off and a new one fitted? Perhaps this was the way it was always meant to be done and the entire piece is only sold in case of some other type of larger ccv failure? Other wise I see no reason to make the diaphragm cover so easily removed and replaced. I would think it would be far easier and therefore cheaper to have the cover over the diaphragm glued on and not able to be opened at all.

doc
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Happily, I had a relatively easy time getting it put back on. The lower middle passenger side bolt was a bit of a challenge to get back in. If I ever have to replace that again I will plan to replace just the diaphragm as shown in the video earlier in this thread. It is aggravating that a job as simple as this is made so tedious and difficult because of a choice that BMW made to use terribly soft bolts/screws.

I will have to wait until Monday evening to start is after the sucking jet pump comes in.

Thanks for the input and advice from all of you! Doc I'm glad we were doing this at the same time!
 

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How's yours doing? Mine is still smoking, in fact I think it's actually smoking worse!! I'm hoping it's just emptying out all the residual oil that was laying around. I threw in a bottle of Techron and am hoping tomorrow will be smoke free.

Also changed the plugs. Don't know how that motor was even running. The plugs were so gunked up it was unbelievable. Only light oil in the spark plug galley's. Seems the majority of oil I'm losing is going out the outer valve cover gaskets.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
It is all back together as far as the CCV is concerned. I am still waiting for the jet sucking pump to arrive tomrrow via FedEx. After I get that installed which shouldn't take long at all I'll fire it up and see what happens. If it doesn't run well I'll be.. :mad:

I'll report back tomorrow.

I hope yours still smoking is a result of some oil left over from before the repair. I changed my plugs last January and they did need it! Mainly because my valve cover gaskets were leaking big time. Those have also been replaced and now there are no more leaks!
 

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I had to use my breaker bar to free 7/8 plugs. I'm thinking they didn't get changed at any kind of regular interval by PO. I'm also not convinced about the utility of the 4 ground electro plugs. Seems the ground electrodes are much shorter/closer to the center electrode than the single ground electrode plugs and so are more prone to collecting gunk. Mine were so gunked up that there was barely and room for the spark to jump the gap. I replaced them with Iridium single ground electrode NGK's. Going to pull a few of them in a couple of weeks and see how they are doing.

Still smoking this morning. If it is still smoking tomorrow I'm going to be concerned and start looking for alternate causes.

I'm wondering why you are changing the suction multiplier. I don't recall reading about failures.

doc
 

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Thank you so much!! I have never heard of a Ribe bolt before, now I know! That explains why these are so easily torn up with a torque bit. I'm going to have to get a set of those for future work.

Thanks again!

doc
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Very interesting about the Ribe bit! I've never heard of those before either.

Doc- I am replacing the suction multiplier because as I tried to pull a hose off the back of the CCV I got a little carried away apparently, because when the hose finally came free it also broke the multiplier apart. It seems to be quite fragile.
 

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Was reading in another thread that they come apart quite easily. Not sure if this is by design or merely not put together well.
 

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I actually attempted the replace-the-diaphragm method the first time around. Because of the tight space and brittle plastic, i apparently compromised one of the tabs on the round plastic cover and didnt realize it at the time. Worked great initially but a couple weeks later it had finished breaking itself and the whistling noise was back as one of the cover tabs completely failed.

At that point i was tasked with buying a second (!) new CCV from BMW and replaced the whole unit.
 

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mng has enlightened me that the bolts holding the ccv are not torque, but Ribe. You might save yourself a lot of trouble by staring with Ribe bit instead of a torque. Also the nut grip mentioned above work great pulling stripped Ribe's.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Just got it all back together. It runs better...but I can still hear a misfires and there is tremendous suction from the dipstick tube (possibly more than before). This is not the outcome I had hoped for. At least now it doesn't start go up to 1500 rpm and then drop dead. Now it will run, but the idle is unsteady.

Hmm...where to go next?
 

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Just got it all back together. It runs better...but I can still hear a misfires and there is tremendous suction from the dipstick tube (possibly more than before). This is not the outcome I had hoped for. At least now it doesn't start go up to 1500 rpm and then drop dead. Now it will run, but the idle is unsteady.

Hmm...where to go next?
Perhaps we will get some help here, but from what I've been reading suction from the dipstick tube means the ccv system is working as it should. So, the increase in suction you're hearing could actually be an indication that you have done well. Now I'm thinking that if there is a suction your hearing with the stick in, then perhaps you have a broken o ring on the stick. It has I believe 2.

Looks to me that this ccv system is very different than what we are accustomed to. (My last ccv system was a Vac-U-Pan) The crank case is designed to be air tight. (hence the 2 o rings on the dip stick) From what I read, when there is no suction on the tube there is a problem. Seems there should be between -3 to -6... (Here's the problem, not really sure if it's inches of water, or inches of hg, or inches of BS. 3 inches of H20 being a lot less negative pressure than 3 inches of mercury. ) Anyway, seems the system is designed to run at a negative pressure.

I'm hoping someone comes alone here that knows what the he$$ they are doing and passes on some experience info. I'm not real sure of the function of the air pump, or how to test one. I have the solenoid flopping around by the intake manifold and have to put it back where it goes, and I think I may know where that is but don't really understand how to test it.

Unsteady idle could be the vanos system. Is it rythmic? Bringing the idle up and down and up and down?

doc

OK, looks like that air tank and solonid are part of the gas tank vent system and have little/no effect on the motor. Also I understand that the valve stem seals can be changed wo removing the heads, but the cams do need to come out. (Thank you Corey's Auto!!) Hope I don't have to go there and if I have to I guess I will replace the chain and guides. Going to start with the the valve cover gaskets. A leaking valve cover gasket can seriously effect the ccv operation. If your having valve cover leakage, that would be a good, "Next place to go." And that's where I'm going. There is a great vid on Youtube of a 10 year old doing the job, so I guess I can do it too!!!!

JimLev has put a good outline of the ccv system and problems down in my thread, "Bad Smoking Habit."
 
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