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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all, today after work I came home and decided to install a aftermarket amp "cheap one" lightning bolt 150.2 and the speaker that i was hooking it to is a 12in JL 12w0 sub-box, I had used a LOC and tapped into my factory amp according to this diagram

The pinouts for the 15 pin connector are:
PIN CONNECTION
1- Sub 1 +
2- Sub 2 +
3- LH Rear loudspeaker + (Touring LH rear speaker ground)
4- Radio on/antenna signal I used this to tap in my amp remote wire ?
5- RH rear loudspeaker + (Touring RH rear +)
6- Sub 4 -
7- Sub 3 -
8- Terminal 30 connects to Fuse 56
9- Sub 1 -
10- Sub 2 -
11- Touring LH rear +
12- Touring RH rear -
13- Sub 4 +
14- Sub 3 +
15- Terminal 31 connects to Ground Point

and i connected the speaker wire from my LOC to the red outlined is that correct ?

now the problem is the 12inch speaker plays but its sooo damn weak , I cranked it up all the way and i barely can see the speakers buddging any ideas ?

should i change the amp ? I have a JL 500/1 amp I was thinkin about swapping the amp out and putting this one but also I was worrying that since my amp is 500watts and the 12inch speaker that I will be using is only 150watt i think , will my amp blow up the speaker?
 

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You Lick It, You Own It
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is the gain and settings adjusted properly?
 

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system upgrade

go to speed world in queens blvd, and let them do your system , they are pro. I did mine and ican't be more happier
 

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I glow in the dark
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580 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I also notice that my amp's power lights are not on or maybe the LED's are broken ?, how long does it take for an amp to get hot ? but I know for a fact that the subwoofers that is hooked upto my OEM amp was booming a little just its very very very weak. its also possible that my amp is a piece of $hit , I might just have to put in my JL 500/1 amp and test it and it result is the same... then im screwed. Im just worrying about blowing my subwoofer because atmost that subwoofer is 150w its a 12in JL w0.

can it be possible that even tho your amp has no power can the DSP amp (factory amp) push the sub woofer that I have connected to the OEM amp, which is tapped into the DSP amp (factory amp) using a LOC ? can it be possible that the LOC that I am using is a piece of **** ? I paid $7 for it from this site http://www.cardomain.com/item/STISLOC ,
this LOC "The SLOC can accept input up to 12 watts per channel" can it be this problem which is why its so weak ?

I followed everything according to the people from the forums on tapping the wires to the rear speakers on the factory amp with the LOC

I did the exact same thing with tapping the wires in as this post
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138918&highlight=dsp+amp

here is the link for the 15pins out

I connected #7,#14 and #10,#2 from my 15pin out to the LOC then I used a pair of RCA cables and connected from LOC to my AMP

I read all of that post and did not really help only to find that Iam having the same exact problem. 1 extra thing I did was I tapped my amps remote wire to the white wire #4 in the 15pin out diagram

This problem is giving me a headache :( ,
can all the audiophiles come out and help me :),
what should i do next ? bring my car to the shop ? I know I already done more then half of the work already... but i have no idea what went wrong.

HELP!!~!~~!~
 

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I glow in the dark
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
chivas said:
is the gain and settings adjusted properly?
someone also told me about the gains settings I did not check, but I will check it out tonight. they also said something about bridging my amp. I will also look into this tonight.
 

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LED's usually doesn't go bad so it's probably not getting any power or it's a defective amp.
 

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chivas said:
LED's usually doesn't go bad so it's probably not getting any power or it's a defective amp.
I agree. It is definitely not a problem bridging will fix so don't bother trying. Either the gains are wrong, the high/low sensitivity switch (if it has one) is "high" when it should be "low", there is a power problem (fuse or wiring) or the amp is fried.

Have you checked the power? You do have a multimeter, right?

Bill
 

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I glow in the dark
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
BillP said:
I agree. It is definitely not a problem bridging will fix so don't bother trying. Either the gains are wrong, the high/low sensitivity switch (if it has one) is "high" when it should be "low", there is a power problem (fuse or wiring) or the amp is fried.

Have you checked the power? You do have a multimeter, right?

Bill
yes, I will check with a multimeter tonight with connection and power. I will also swap out another working amp to test it just to make sure.
 

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I glow in the dark
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
problem solved!!!

ok after carefully examining the wiring, I have found out that I forgot to ground the cable from the amp :( , how stupid of me, it was late last night and i was rush and over saw that :(, so today after work , i looked at my trunk and was like wtf is this cable doing loose, and found out that i forgot to ground it . now since the amp works and all , another problem arises , I realize that all my bass is trapped in the trunk. the only way to get it to the cabin is by cutting thru the armrest area where the skis go, any recommendation for getting bass into the cabin without cutting of metal ?
 

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flyboyy said:
any recommendation for getting bass into the cabin without cutting of metal ?
more bass.
 

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z0lt3c said:
more bass.
more cowbells! lol..

if you have fold down seats, the bass comes through rather well. but other then that, you'll have to cut.
 

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flyboyy said:
when you say more bass, do you mean. hook up more subs or bigger sub ?
maybe a bit of both but just because it's bigger doesn't mean it's better... well, bigger what? magnet or diameter?

more subs would do it but then what are you left with? draggin' around 200 lbs of magents in the trunk?

i would suggest popping the rear sub holes (if you haven't done that already) and if that's not enough, cut bigger holes in the shelf, just not too big.
 

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I glow in the dark
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
chivas said:
maybe a bit of both but just because it's bigger doesn't mean it's better... well, bigger what? magnet or diameter?

more subs would do it but then what are you left with? draggin' around 200 lbs of magents in the trunk?

i would suggest popping the rear sub holes (if you haven't done that already) and if that's not enough, cut bigger holes in the shelf, just not too big.
I think you posted some pic about popping the sub holes in the rear right ?
 

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flyboyy said:
I think you posted some pic about popping the sub holes in the rear right ?
yep.. i'll pop them for you saturday if you like.. it's quite easy actually.
 

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Not sure what frequency you are running, but anything below 80 hz should definitely be passing through your rear seat due to its wavelength. What is your crossover set to for your subs?
 

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I glow in the dark
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
xclone said:
Not sure what frequency you are running, but anything below 80 hz should definitely be passing through your rear seat due to its wavelength. What is your crossover set to for your subs?
where do i set the frequency to be below 80hz and what crossover setting should I have on the woofer amp ?
 

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I glow in the dark
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
frhsfootball80 said:
10w7 + 500/1 and youll wish you had less bass in ur car LOL
I bought a JL 500/1 amp did not install yet, but I was thinkin about 12w6 because right now in my car I have bull**** amp lightning bolt 150.2 and jl 12w0 in a Qlogic box for testing purposes, I was thinkin about getting a 12w6 and swap the speakers out of the box and then swap out the amp. will this do it ?
 
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