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Hey I'm looking for recommendations on clutch kits for my z. My car is a little over 80k and the clutch is starting to slip. I'm looking for a stage 1-2. I was going to go with a stage 2 clutch kit from spec but I recently saw some YouTube videos of users going through bad experiences. I'm rethinking buying it as a result. Anybody purchase a performance clutch there satisfied with that I should look into?
 

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Hey I'm looking for recommendations on clutch kits for my z. My car is a little over 80k and the clutch is starting to slip. I'm looking for a stage 1-2. I was going to go with a stage 2 clutch kit from spec but I recently saw some YouTube videos of users going through bad experiences. I'm rethinking buying it as a result. Anybody purchase a performance clutch there satisfied with that I should look into?
A few questions:

1. What are your power goals?

2. Does your flywheel need replacement? The dual mass flywheels are wear items...

3. Are you looking to improve performance at the expense of NVH, or do you want stock NVH levels but with more capacity?

Typically the higher the capacity, the more side effects you have to deal with. High capacity clutches behave more like on/off switches and can be difficult to modulate. A good organic clutch can increase capacity by 40% or more, and only require a little more pedal effort than stock. Organic clutches are the most forgiving, and they typically aren't ruined if overheated (unlike kevlar). It's a common mistake to buy "too much" clutch.

My non-M is supercharged at 9 psi of peak boost, and I have the Bimmerworld Stage 1 performance organic combo - Clutchmasters organic sprung hub clutch with a JB Racing lightweight flywheel. The manufacturer claims a 40% increase in holding capacity. It holds the power of my supercharged car without issue. It chatters at idle when the transmission fluid is warm, so it's not for everyone. Pedal effort is noticeably firmer, but not annoyingly firm.

It's perfect for spirited driving. I feel like I eliminated the majority of the slop in the drivetrain. Rev matching is significantly easier, because the engine revs freely and not-so-perfect rev matches don't shock the drivetrain and upset the balance of the car like they did with the heavy OEM DMF. When shifting at redline, I don't have to wait as long to select the next gear, because the revs fall quickly. Overall, the car is much more intuitive and communicative, which makes driving it hard more fun and predictable.
 
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