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I have a 325xi 05 and have 184.000 miles on it, it runs great and have no problems at all. I have been running 5/30 syn. and was wondering with an oil change getting close would I gain anything going to 5/40? Thanks for any help
 

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No, you’ll gain nothing. Stick with a high quality, fully synthetic oil that meets BMW’s LL01 specs. I recommend LiquiMoly oil. It’s available on Amazon at a great price, cheaper than Mobil 1 at your local parts store. It’s a true synthetic while most “consumer” synthetic oils are made from dino oil or natural gas (Mobil 1).
 

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The BMW LL-01 5W-30 is "almost" a 5W-40. It's high temperature viscosity is higher than the minimum for an SAE 5W-30. They do make an LL-01 0W-40, It's used in M cars. I think Castrol makes a LL-01 certified 0W40 and it's sold at Walmart, and it's cheap. Not all Castrol's are BMW LL certified, so you need to read the back of the jug.
 

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Also a fan of the Castrol 0w40 from Walmart. Very high quality synthetic due to the base they use. Same stuff is 15 euros a liter in France compared to $27 for a 5 liter jug in the US. Considering packing some in my suitcase for the upcoming oil change on the 650 I moved to france a couple of years ago.


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The BMW LL-01 5W-30 is "almost" a 5W-40. It's high temperature viscosity is higher than the minimum for an SAE 5W-30. They do make an LL-01 0W-40, It's used in M cars. I think Castrol makes a LL-01 certified 0W40 and it's sold at Walmart, and it's cheap. Not all Castrol's are BMW LL certified, so you need to read the back of the jug.
0W-40 is the regular oil. The older high-revving M-cars use 10W-60... not so sure about the new ones.
 

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0W-40 is the regular oil. The older high-revving M-cars use 10W-60... not so sure about the new ones.
I think the turbo-charged M's use LL-01 0W-40. My E46 M3 required 10W-60. The E39 M5 could use either 5W-30 or 10W-60.

The very early E46 M3's (model year 2001, produced from maybe March through September of 2001) came with 5W-30. But, after they were blowing up left and right, they recalled them and switched to 10W-60. The MY 2002's came with 10W-60, but they were blowing up even more than the MY 2001's. It took a while for BMW to get this straight.
 

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You can use all oils what are available from the Walmart and other stores
0W30 5W30 0W40 5W40 and never use 10W60
10W60 only for the poor man who never seen a doctor.
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No one of you talking how long you can keep in the engine you miracle engine oils?
Never go with BMW recommendations.
When you using those engine oils from those super tiffs retailers go for an oil change at 7K mil 10K Km max.
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No one know means Syntetic engine oil and syntetic 100% engine oils and why ?
All engine oils made in North America are same as politics in North America
Cheated corrupted and untrue.
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I think the turbo-charged M's use LL-01 0W-40. My E46 M3 required 10W-60. The E39 M5 could use either 5W-30 or 10W-60.

The very early E46 M3's (model year 2001, produced from maybe March through September of 2001) came with 5W-30. But, after they were blowing up left and right, they recalled them and switched to 10W-60. The MY 2002's came with 10W-60, but they were blowing up even more than the MY 2001's. It took a while for BMW to get this straight.
It's the same reason the S85 engines were seeing so many rod bearing failures. 10W-60 is like really thick maple syrup... molasses, even. When you have an engine with ridiculously tight tolerances and manufactured with extreme precision, the oil needs to be a little thinner than molasses before you can start driving it like it needs to be driven. A slew of people bought those high-revving M cars and drove them like Toyotas or Hondas... 4,000 RPM right off the bat.

Believe it or not, a car that requires 10W-60 actually needs a couple minutes to warm up before you start driving. Let the car idle for two to three minutes before driving, keep the revs below 3,000 RPM for the first five minutes, below 5,000 for the next five, and then you should be good to go.

Those are really the only BMWs that need to be "warmed up" before driving.

 

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I'd creep around the 'hood at 10-15 MPH until the oil temperature gauges needle move off of 140 F. Then, I'd go out the back entrance of the 'hood onto 35 MPH city streets for about 1.3 miles before going out onto the 45 MPH highway. The nosey old hags in the 'hood pro'lly thought a was looking for a little girl to kidnap. At work, I was in a building that was over a mile down a dead end road with at 15 MPH speed limit. So, I had oil temperature before I got on the highway leaving work. Creeping around in really cold weather would cause an OBDII code, "excessive warm up time."

The oil filter for that engine was the same size as non-M's, but it had a perforated plastic belt around the element to prevent it from being blown apart by cold 10W-60. The car also had a variable "orangeline" on the tach, as opposed to a redline. It's start out at 4k RPM when cold and then gradually turn off the orange lights as the engine warmed up.

We live near the front entrance of the 'hood, near the highway where the speed limit is 55 MPH going west and 45 MPH going east. Frau Putzer used to work to the west. So, she'd pull out of our driveway, drive a few hundred feet to the 'hood front entrance, and then wham... off she'd got at 65 MPH. After 147k miles of her abuse, her Honda V6 ran like new and still didn't need top-off oil in between 8k mile oil changes with 5W-20 synthetic. She's now doing that with her X3 with 0W-20 synthetic.
 
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