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Discussion Starter #1
I went through the pile of subwoofer threads but couldn't find an answer to my specific question.

The subwoofer, as is typical, is blown out. I'm not looking for amazing sound, but I would like to replace it rather than just pull it out and go without one.

The problem is finding a dual voice coil subwoofer that fits in the shallow enclosure; however there are plenty of single voice coil subwoofers that would fit. It seems like there should be some way to wire in a SVC and have it show the right impedence to the amp. The problem is that I just don't know what the four wires going into the enclosure are.

The four wires are red/black in a pair and green/gray in a pair. My guess is that I could just shrink wrap the green and gray wires and wire in a 4 ohm SVC with the red/black. Anyone see a problem with that?

Thanks in advance.
 

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sub woofer dilemma

hi I just ordered a kicker 43cwrt672 as the supposed replacement 6 incher between the seats. I just got my 2001 z3 3.0 like 5 days ago. detailed the engine comp for like 3 days. pulled the sub out of the enclosure cuz I had to listen to it burp and fart for the 180 miles from where I bought her to her new home in my garage. will let you know how it sounds when it shows up from crutchfield.:)
 

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Proud Canadian, I'm Sorry
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The kicker 43cwrt672 looks promising...hopefully it works well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I ended up just improvising a new surround out of some fabric I had laying around. I intended it to just be a stopgap until I figured out which speaker to get, but it's not bad.

It's not the most elegant fix, but it now meets the relatively low expectations I have for a shallow 6 inch subwoofer.
 

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ok, this will work

OK, I got my kicker speaker. It will not fit in the bmw surround without heavy modification. so out it came. took a piece of plywood,cut it out for a speaker mount, stuffed an old t shirt behind it for "baffle".sounds good. no worries. Its not earth shattering loud or clear, but it has the dual coils and works as advertised. probably could have got away cheaper, but this is good.

:mad:
 

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If the factory sub speaker cone is detached around the edge, there is an easy fix posted somewhere that shows how to repair it with a tube of clear silicone caulk. I tried it and it worked fine for me.
 

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I just repaired mine with a tip I found somewhere online. I put a bead of caulking around where it has separated and it worked. I wasn't expecting much and sort of did it half ass but at least it doesn't chatter and is bearable.
 

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I recently did a complete system replacement in my 01 3.0 and was able to find the complete pin outs for all of the factory system. I elected to use the existing speaker wires but did install a 5ch 750watt amp in the trunk. Because all of the wires go to the trunk anyway i made all of my speaker connections there including the new 6x9 custom sub. Anyway your question is about the load the amp is going to see. The factory sub was a dual voice coil 6" and was driven by a 2 channel sub amp in the truck. As long as you use the proper pair the amp will see a load on 1 of the channels and not the other so the resistance it sees will be from one voice coil and should be 4 ohms. In the factory set up each channel saw 4 ohms. if anyone is interested I can detail what I did. Its not show quality but it will get more than loud enough to hear even at very fast speed, and I did it all for less that $600
 
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