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Hello there. I own a 97 328I Convertible, Ive always loved sound and bass in my cars so I wanted to see what I could do in my BMW. I go to look in the trunk and I have about 11" in height and 33 1/2" in Width. So I have decided to put three 10" Subs in there.
Now: My question is If i get three subs would i be able to hook them up to a mono amp?
And if that is possible say the amp was 1200 watts. Would all three subwoofers receive 1200 watts???
There are so many different mono amps out there.
Do i have to go with class D?
If subwoofer say 1200 watt peak do I try to find a amp that has 1200 watts?
The subwoofers that i want come in 2 ohm and 4 ohm's. There Kicker CVX's.
If anyone could help me out with these questions that would be great. Have a good day!
 

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East Bound And Down
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you seem to know some stuff which is good.... but a 1200 watt amp is normally a 1200 watt RMS peak look for the words "continuous watts" probably around 700.. you also need to match the ohms if the amp to the speakers, i understand that you like bass but technically you want as flat of a frequency response as possible to hear the music as it was intended.. 1 10" sub would be MORE than enough for your car
3 10" subs means you want to show off.. and let everyone in your neighborhood know you are home
 

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just do i what i did a put a square sub in the middle back seat its pretty easy to do it hits pretty hard and no rattle
 

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Well if he got a 500w mono block generally they will put out 500rms because a lot of mono blocks dont have a peak rating.
 

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Monos are good for subs because theres no point in having a 2-4 channel amp for a sub that only uses 1 channel :lmao:
 

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East Bound And Down
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a dedicated sub amp is only good for dolby 5.1 (in Fvcking movie theatres or in my home studio for mastering audio for film)
My entire life revolves around getting a clean even frequency response so yeh MONO is GHEY because those other channels could be used to power more speakers in your car..... a dedicated sub is stupid.... LOUD... obnoxious... and around here your just asking for a ticket

why put out SPL's in your car that human hearing is not meant to be subjected to? Im a young guy, I play alot of live music (probably alot more than any of you realize) and i HATE subs/kickers in cars with a passion.
 

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You have to match the impedance of the speaker to the impedance of the amp, impedance is the rating in "ohms". In short, a speaker is a big resistor, hence the "ohms" rating, so check out some sites on how parallel / series resistors work. If you connect 2, 8 ohm speakers in parallel ( + to + and - to - ) the resistance is halved, if you connect them in series the resistance is doubled.

Doing this with 3 would be harder, but depending on if you use your spare, you can put a nice sized sub in there if you make it into a box, this would be custom though. Otherwise if you want it in a normal box, you could do 2 solobarics. So you would have about 235 sq. in. for 3 10" versus 200 in. sq. for 2 10" solobarics.
 

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Since low frequency is non-directional, meaning you could place a sub anywhere in the car, location, or the number of speakers to produce these frequencies, is varible. .... and since RMS is a rating of power output the amp produces befor going into the clip mode, the RMS power out is pretty much reliable.

Amp specs (all solid state, not tube amps) have a spec rating that says something like ... 1200 watts into 2 ohms..900 watts into 4 ohms.... 600 wats into 6 ohms... and so on. Off the top of my head, I can't think of ANY amp that is comfortable on a speaker load less than 2 ohms.

If you want to feed the left and right stereo channels into a sub signal, then you must take the signals from the head unit before it goes to the main power amp that powers the rest of your audio. DO NOT take a signal between the amp and a speaker. It's too strong and it will change the way the amp sees that speaker rating.

If you have changed out your OEM head unit, and your aftermarket head unit has a provision for "Sub Out", then there's the ticket.... if not, you'll need a e36 wiring diagram to choose the correct wires to tap into.

Unless you are into competitive sound, I'm betting a 200 watt amp with a seperate volume control will provide plenty of audio goodness.... be careful tho..... if the car beside you at the stop light hears your license plate rattle, you've become a ricer.

My $ .02.
 
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