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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2007 328xi coupe...........thinking about using 2 hydrolic jacks ( one at each side liftpad )
to lift entire one side off ground. Will rotate the fronts to back, keeping tires on the same side............any problems getting both wheels on one side off the ground, stressing the underbody by jacking up this way ? , or confusing the tire pressure monitor ?
 

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Porleau
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Staggered Set Up?

Isn't there a staggered set up on 328xi coupe or is this only on cars with sports package?
 

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You can't with staggered setup. I do all the time with my Armada. Make sure you have a good jack and jackstands:thumbup:
 

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Flying monkey herder
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the entire side of the car will lift if you jack at the rear jacking point....
 

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no problem, use the ear jacking point. I swap my tires this way all the time. Do you have a staggered set-up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
all tires the same, not staggered.

jacking the rear at the side lift pad will really raise the front wheel also??
 

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Flying monkey herder
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yes, the rear tire will be about 3 inches off the ground, the front about an inch
 

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jacking the rear at the side lift pad will really raise the front wheel also??
You best use jack stands, chock both tires on the opposite side and set your parking brake if you're going to do this. If you don't, and you upset the car's balance while it's up on a jack only, it will come down and it won't be a pretty landing (especially if you are anywhere in the landing zone)!
 

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You can't rotate your tires if you have staggered wheels. You might get rubbing if you put your larger rear tires up front. I don't know about XIs, but the summer RFT on mine are also directional so you can't even go from left to right.
 

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You can't rotate your tires if you have staggered wheels. You might get rubbing if you put your larger rear tires up front. I don't know about XIs, but the summer RFT on mine are also directional so you can't even go from left to right.
I just told the same thing this morning by my SA - you CAN'T rotate tires on E90 - the are different size.
 

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VIII
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Wouldn't it be less stress on the frame and chassis by jacking from both points and lifting the entire side up? Distributing the weight over two jack points must be better then just jacking from one side at a time?
 

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I think you're better off using two hydraulic jacks to even the pressue on the frame but that's just if you're very cautious; probaby doesn't matter just lifting from one jack point.

I tried removing the tires but could not break the rims free. After some hard tapping I broke the front rim free but I could not remove the rear rim. Does anyone have any tips for busting this thing loose? Thanks.
AJ
 

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If you loosen up the lug bolts and then move the car three feet, then when you remove the rims, they will break free- so I'm told.
 

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Flying monkey herder
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I think you're better off using two hydraulic jacks to even the pressue on the frame but that's just if you're very cautious; probaby doesn't matter just lifting from one jack point.

I tried removing the tires but could not break the rims free. After some hard tapping I broke the front rim free but I could not remove the rear rim. Does anyone have any tips for busting this thing loose? Thanks.
AJ
take the centercap off with a suction cup and use to PB blaster penetrating oil where the centerbore meets the hub. let it sit for about 15 minutes and then start tapping around the circumference of the tire with a mallet. should break free.

what you're dealing with is corrosion between the iron/steel hub and the aluminum wheel. you can prevent it from happening by wirebrushing the centerbore of the wheel and the contact point on the hub, and applying some high temp grease or copper antiseize to both surfaces.

when aluminum corrodes, its oxide is a nice, fluffy white compound, which takes up quite a bit of space, pretty much welding the centerbore of the rim to the hub. the grease stops the corrosion.
 

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I just rotated mine. Used two jacks. Worked fine. Check to make sure tires on front are the same as tires on back. I had trouble breaking tires loose from rim. Called dealer and they said just break them loose so I did. Maybe I can get a few more mile from these run flats by rotating.
 

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There is absolutely no need to use 2 jacks or jack stands. I've been rotating my own tires on various lesser (re: non BMW) cars for 20 years. Your car is so much stiffer than anything that came off a production line even 10 years ago that using one jack on the rear pad will EASILY lift the side of the car. (The rear pad is closer to the cars center of gravity. On my Acura I use the front pad only and it works the same way.) This is the way people at track events and autocrosses swap their race tires every weekend. As long as you are not actually going under the car or sticking your head in the wheel well, there is no need for jack stands. Just set the parking brake tightly. If it makes you feel better, chock the wheels on the other side, but even that's not necessary. Besides, you should only have the car up for MAYBE 10-15 minutes tops. I've got it down to less than 15 minutes to rotate both sides. It's not like you're parking it that way over night anyway. Your car endures far more torsional stress from day to day driving on uneven roads than you will ever be able to exert with a jack.

As for rotating, if you don't have a staggered set up it is normal to rotate your tires front to back.
 

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VIII
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There is absolutely no need to use 2 jacks or jack stands. I've been rotating my own tires on various lesser (re: non BMW) cars for 20 years. Your car is so much stiffer than anything that came off a production line even 10 years ago that using one jack on the rear pad will EASILY lift the side of the car. (The rear pad is closer to the cars center of gravity. On my Acura I use the front pad only and it works the same way.) This is the way people at track events and autocrosses swap their race tires every weekend. As long as you are not actually going under the car or sticking your head in the wheel well, there is no need for jack stands. Just set the parking brake tightly. If it makes you feel better, chock the wheels on the other side, but even that's not necessary. Besides, you should only have the car up for MAYBE 10-15 minutes tops. I've got it down to less than 15 minutes to rotate both sides. It's not like you're parking it that way over night anyway. Your car endures far more torsional stress from day to day driving on uneven roads than you will ever be able to exert with a jack.

As for rotating, if you don't have a staggered set up it is normal to rotate your tires front to back.
Are you sure? I mean 100% sure? We're talking about my baby here. ;) Seriously though, if you bring the car to a lift the car is raised by an even distribution of weight over 4 points. When you jack the car up from each jack point at a time it just seems like you're twisting the frame a little bit. Perhaps even contributing to the birth of little creaks, moans and rattles here and there, when you're driving. Also in my experience in order to get the front wheel high enough off the ground to remove it by using only the rear jack point you need to jack the car really high from that point, so I always either use two jacks on the same side (rear and front jack point) to lift car evenly or I just use each individual jack point. Yes, I'm anal about my cars, if I weren't I wouldn't spend so much time on these forums! :eeps:
 

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As for rotating, if you don't have a staggered set up it is normal to rotate your tires front to back.
There is much debate on this.

So far, my Bentley manual indicates BMW does not recommend rotation of tires, but my owner's manual is silent.

I have a staggered setup, so its a moot point for my E46.

I would be very curious if anyone has anything in writing sourced to the manufacturer that says either yes or no.

:dunno:
 

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Flying monkey herder
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Are you sure? I mean 100% sure? We're talking about my baby here. ;) Seriously though, if you bring the car to a lift the car is raised by an even distribution of weight over 4 points. When you jack the car up from each jack point at a time it just seems like you're twisting the frame a little bit. Perhaps even contributing to the birth of little creaks, moans and rattles here and there, when you're driving. Also in my experience in order to get the front wheel high enough off the ground to remove it by using only the rear jack point you need to jack the car really high from that point, so I always either use two jacks on the same side (rear and front jack point) to lift car evenly or I just use each individual jack point. Yes, I'm anal about my cars, if I weren't I wouldn't spend so much time on these forums! :eeps:
the frame of the car is put under significantly more load going through turns at speed than jacking it up from a single point.
1750 lbs on that one jack point that isnt moving versus weight thats accelerating/decelerating on various planes while turning, braking, accelerating....

when you jack up from the rear, even if just getting at the rear tire, the frame is more than stiff enough that the front wheel is unloading as well, the added stress to actually completely raise the wheel off the ground is minimal.

jack up the back of the car and you'll see the front rise even if you only jack it up enough to get the rear wheel off the ground. at that point its only spring extension thats keeping the front wheel on the ground.
 

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VIII
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There is much debate on this.

So far, my Bentley manual indicates BMW does not recommend rotation of tires, but my owner's manual is silent.

I have a staggered setup, so its a moot point for my E46.

I would be very curious if anyone has anything in writing sourced to the manufacturer that says either yes or no.

:dunno:
The simple answer to me is that BMW's owners are all "ballers" and can't be bothered wasting their time rotating tires so we just leave them in place and buy new ones whenever they happen to wear out. :angel:
 
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